• Polished Glazed Tile The Yellow Stone CMAXSB1302 System 1
  • Polished Glazed Tile The Yellow Stone CMAXSB1302 System 2
Polished Glazed Tile The Yellow Stone CMAXSB1302

Polished Glazed Tile The Yellow Stone CMAXSB1302

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1325 m²
Supply Capability:
10000000 m²/month

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Key Specifications/Special Features of Glazed Tile :

 

1. Material: glazed porcelain

2. Antique feel, Metal Image

3. Low water absorption

4. Strong in hardness

5. Coordination in color and luster

6. Usage Area: home, office, hotel, government and corporate projects, flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring

7. Style: simple, classic, elegant and splendid in color

8. Good in abrasion and chemical corrosion-resistant

9. Resistance to thermal shock

10. Available in various sizes and colors

 

 

Primary Competitive Advantages of Glazed Tile:

 

 

1. All product of rustic ceramic tiles are of top grade AAAA

  

2. CE certificate, ISO9001:2008 and ISO14001:2004

  

3. OEM accepted.

  

4. Speial dimensions available according to your floor tiles request.

  

5. Best Quality with best price, strictly quality control.

  

6. On time delivery, in general 7-10days.

 

7. Best after sale service, customer can follow their porcelain tiles order situation any time. no matter on product line, warehouse or shipment.

 

 

Main Export Markets:

 

 

1. Asia

2. Australasia

3. Central/South America

4. Eastern Europe

5. Mid East/Africa

6. North America

7. Western Europe

 

Specification:

 

Tile type:

Ceramic tile

Material:

Porcelain

Size(MM) :

600x600mm

Thickness(MM):

9mm

Water Absorption:

≤0.5%

Color:

Available in all designs and colors

Usage:

Used in floor

Surface treatment:

Glazed surface

Features:

Professional triple-burning in oven, which makes our tiles more excellent quality.

Function:

Acid-Resistant, Antibacterial, Heat Insulation, Non-Slip, Wear-Resistant, Anti-fouling easy to clean

Packaging:

600x600mm: 4pcs/box,28kg/box,standard cartons and 

wooden pallets packing

Remark:

All kind of designs can be produced according

 to your requirements

Quality

Surface quality:

95% tiles no defect from 0.8 away uprightly

Breaking strength:

As require

Resistance to thermal shock:

Without crack and flaw after 10 times anti heat shock test

Brightness:

≥55

Frost-resistance:

No crack or spalling after frost resistance test

 

Product Picture:

 

Polished Glazed Tile The Yellow Stone CMAXSB1302

 

 

 

   ceramic tile

 

 

  ceramic tile

 

 

Packing Pictures

 

  ceramic tile

 

 

  Glazed Tile CMAX-BR653

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q:For some reason I‘m having a hard time finding a good DIY instruction page on how to remove floor tile. Half of them are about removing just one damaged tile and the rest all have different methods. Some say to place a towel on top of it and smash with something, others have different machines. I‘m not really sure where to start. The space is about 5‘ x 5‘ and the tiles are the tiny kind, like 1 sq. inch each. What tools do I need? Do people usually tile underneath wooden vanities? Will I have to take it up? Help!
First stop should be a Home Depot or Revy or whatever building supplier you have near you. They will know and have the tools you might need and could give good advice on the easiest removal. Unfortunately there are no magically easy ways to do this. If you are able to attack an edge, good for you. Use a good, sturdy scraper. Perhaps even one that you will be able to use a hammer on the end of. Then it is just simply a matter of elbow grease and determination. Actually, a 5' X 5' space will come off fairly quickly once you get started. If you are not able to start at an edge, you will have to make one by chiselling out a few tiles until you can get your sturdy scraper working again. just scrape a few grout lines and pry out some tiles. Please wear safety glasses and gloves throughout this whole procedure. These things will chip and have very sharp edges. The next part is to be sure that you scrape off all of the thinset (glue) that was holding the tiles down. You are now almost ready to re-tile, if that is your goal. If it is, then just be sure that the area is solid and clean and you are good to go. As for tiling under a vanity . . . some do and some don't. New home bulders certainly don't in order to keep costs down. It certainly is not necessary as long as the vanity will be the right height after you are done. There could be a 1/4 to 1/2 inch height difference due to the thickness of the tiles. Hope this helps. George
Q:I understand most of the rules of pai gow tiles, but one part that I am not clear on is banking. If I am the banker, do I get to see the ways that the players set their tiles before I set mine? Or do I secretly set my tiles just like everyone else and then we all reveal simultaneously?
yes to main question
Q:never installed it before i am putting in mold free dry wall and new fixtures. want to put up tile instead of a surround wondering how hard it is to do thanks
this is a fairly easy job to undertake, although a little messy.Even a 1st timer can do this with a little patience,and care. 1st off you can use green board (sheetrock for wet areas) but it is not as waterproof as they say. Get some hardiboard instead. Once this is installed securely, Pop a good straight line with a bright chalk,I like red myself if using 4 tiles pop a line 4and 1/16 above the tub. (Make sure to keep starter row level ) Now your line is popped spread your glue or mastic, using a trowel with serrated edge to do so.Let the glue get tacky and then start installing your tiles (you may need spacers depending on the type tile you use. Most small tiles have a couple of slightly raised spots on each side for the space. Once all your tile is in place, let the tiles set for 24 hrs to fully cure. Now you are ready to grout ,being your 1st time I recommend premixed grout. Keep a wet sponge handy while applying grout. Make sure all joints are well filled, and sponge lightly afterward any excess so that it does not bond to tile facing. Let your grout set about 12 hrs then apply a good sealer to prevent water from penetrating grout and loosening it and your tiles, Grout is porous. Hope you understand what I am saying here, I am better at actually doing as to trying to explain
Q:I was wondering about space between tile when laying tile floor. I have seen online and in person tile floors(don‘t know marble or porcelain or what) where it is completely flat and smooth and the tiles appear butted together. I prefer this look as opposed to the typical tile floor with grout lines that are shallower than the tops of the tile. I was wondering how to get this flat look when every where I have read online says you cannot or at least should not butt tiles together. I hope I described what im looking for accurately and am hoping to get some options. Again I am looking for a flat smooth surface nothing with the dips or recesses of the grout lines. how is that done??
What you want all depends on the type of tile you choose. Granites and marbles you can do this with.There are some vitrified tiles that this can be done with. These are cut (the 2 stones) this way to butt them almost all the way together.Vitrified tiles are formed with the edges slanted so you butt them together.. These are all made to use a very small grout joint but you still need to have grout. Most all other ceramic and porcelain tiles you need a slightly bigger joint and only as small as 3/16 .The type of grout these require you can only do a joint that small. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:The tile at the store says $5.00 per square foot.. so I'm assuming that's the cost of the tile only.. and then how much does it generally cost to install? Another $5 or more per square foot? I am new to this all.
The installation will probably be less than $5.00, probably a $1.50-$2.00 less. That is presuming you want it laid in straight lines. If you want it laid in diagonials or some sort of pattern then you are in the ballpark. Your best bet is just ask and make sure before they start.
Q:I am building a deck outside my living room am#92;nd the dimensions are 8‘ wide by 24‘ long.It is 14‘ up at the highest point as I am on a hill. I‘m using 2 by 6 joists with 2 by 12 headers. Here is what I want to do: someone told me to use a 1/4 in slope over 8 ft. for water run off. I want to tile the deck. Iwant to know what size plywood I should use and if there is some kind of waterproof fibreboard I can use as a base for the tile in lieu of laying down rubber for the base. I dont want sand or pitch due to the weight factor. Is there something fairly lightweight and waterproof suitable for a base for the tile? If so what is it called? and where can i get it? Thanks.
cement board or treated exterior plywood
Q:I installed tile couple of days ago in my shower. I was wondering isn't it better to put bathroom caulking instead of grout since it is flexible and it will last longer and provide better water resistance. Does grout make tile stronger or is caulking only applied on edges? Would I make mistake if I used bathroom caulking between tiles? Thanks
Caulking is generally used for the finishing touches for the edges of the tile. And the purpose for the caulking is so when the floor is mopped or the counters are wiped that the excess water wont leak into the edges of where the tile ends and the baseboards or wall begins. Grout on the other hand is designed to go in between the tiles. So a proper job is the grout in between the tiles and the caulking to polish it off making the edges seamless with a smooth transition from the wall or baseboard leading into the tile. Hope this helps some.
Q:The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!
This is going to be messy. Usually the tiles will break when removing them, if they were properly installed in the first place. Some tile may not break but the mastic will stick to either the tile or backer board. The mastic must be scraped off. Over all it would be simpler to just demo the old tile and start over.
Q:How are these tiles differ from each other and how to identify these?
Porcelain okorder /
Q:I had subway tile installed over a standard size tub. The tiler used 2 x 6 bullnose for the vertical boarder rather than maintaining the staggered look by using 3 x 6 bullnose short as I initially intended. Is there a most common approach for the vertical subway boarder around a tub?
I am going to assume the border is a 2x6 turned vertically. Normally a border tile is used and the grout lines rarely line up because of size. However, if you instructed the setter how you wanted it to look. That is what should be done. I belive you are paying him not the other way around. They do have tiles with the bullnose on the short side(left or right). Find a new tiler. Ask for money back. Stand your ground. I build new homes for a living. This kind of crap drives me nutz! Good luck.

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