• Polished Glazed Tile The Light Yellow Color CMAXSB1309 System 1
  • Polished Glazed Tile The Light Yellow Color CMAXSB1309 System 2
Polished Glazed Tile The Light Yellow Color CMAXSB1309

Polished Glazed Tile The Light Yellow Color CMAXSB1309

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1325 m²
Supply Capability:
10000000 m²/month

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Key Specifications/Special Features of Glazed Tile :

 

1. Material: glazed porcelain

2. Antique feel, Metal Image

3. Low water absorption

4. Strong in hardness

5. Coordination in color and luster

6. Usage Area: home, office, hotel, government and corporate projects, flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring

7. Style: simple, classic, elegant and splendid in color

8. Good in abrasion and chemical corrosion-resistant

9. Resistance to thermal shock

10. Available in various sizes and colors

 

 

Primary Competitive Advantages of Glazed Tile:

 

 

1. All product of rustic ceramic tiles are of top grade AAAA

  

2. CE certificate, ISO9001:2008 and ISO14001:2004

  

3. OEM accepted.

  

4. Speial dimensions available according to your floor tiles request.

  

5. Best Quality with best price, strictly quality control.

  

6. On time delivery, in general 7-10days.

 

7. Best after sale service, customer can follow their porcelain tiles order situation any time. no matter on product line, warehouse or shipment.

 

 

Main Export Markets:

 

 

1. Asia

2. Australasia

3. Central/South America

4. Eastern Europe

5. Mid East/Africa

6. North America

7. Western Europe

 

Specification:

 

Tile type:

Ceramic tile

Material:

Porcelain

Size(MM) :

600x600mm

Thickness(MM):

9mm

Water Absorption:

≤0.5%

Color:

Available in all designs and colors

Usage:

Used in floor

Surface treatment:

Glazed surface

Features:

Professional triple-burning in oven, which makes our tiles more excellent quality.

Function:

Acid-Resistant, Antibacterial, Heat Insulation, Non-Slip, Wear-Resistant, Anti-fouling easy to clean

Packaging:

600x600mm: 4pcs/box,28kg/box,standard cartons and 

wooden pallets packing

Remark:

All kind of designs can be produced according

 to your requirements

Quality

Surface quality:

95% tiles no defect from 0.8 away uprightly

Breaking strength:

As require

Resistance to thermal shock:

Without crack and flaw after 10 times anti heat shock test

Brightness:

≥55

Frost-resistance:

No crack or spalling after frost resistance test

 

Product Picture:

 

Polished Glazed Tile The Light Yellow Color CMAXSB1309

 

 

 

   ceramic tile

 

 

  ceramic tile

 

 

Packing Pictures

 

  ceramic tile

 

 

  Glazed Tile CMAX-BR653

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

Q:How to divide the tiles?
Excellence: no obvious flaws, no broken, no missing angle, after the color difference after no significant color First grade: there is a certain pinhole, there are flaws, but not more than a certain number, there are some missing angle and cracks, but the distance is not large (each type of implementation of different standards, the details can be seen on the carton standards, To obtain a test report to know, the general Atlas also comes with)
Q:and 12 red tiles and 9 white tiles in pattern 3, how many white and red tiles will there be in pattern 6 and pattern 10?Thanks!
The answer is: In pattern 6: 18 Red Tiles and 18 White Tiles In pattern 10: 26 Red Tiles and 30 White Tiles Look at the pattern for your answer. How do the number of tiles change each pattern? The answer is that Red Tiles increase by two (2) tiles each pattern and White Tiles increase by three (3) each pattern. So the patterns are as follows: Pattern / RED / WHITE Pattern 1 / 8 / 3 Pattern 2 / 10 / 6 Pattern 3 / 12 / 9 Pattern 4 / 14 / 12 Pattern 5 / 16 / 15 Pattern 6 / 18 / 18 Pattern 7 / 20 / 21 Pattern 8 / 22 / 24 Pattern 9/ 24 / 27 Pattern 10 / 26 / 30 So, as aforementioned, the answer is: In pattern 6: 18 Red Tiles and 18 White Tiles In pattern 10: 26 Red Tiles and 30 White Tiles
Q:I am about to redo my bathroom, and I Absolutely hate corners. They get dirty and are hard to clean plus I think they are ugly. So as far as tile is concerned is there something like a bent tile for an inside corner such as from floor to wall which will eliminate corners. Imagine if you will a quarter pipe use by skaters. If nothing exists where could I go to get custom tiles made.
American Olean, Summitville and I m sure there other makers make a cove tile meant to be used of flooring corners between the wall tile and floor tile. You can see them in commercial applications allot. I don t see why you cant adopt the same concept to walls. There is also a base tile used for showers called an A 3401 that you could use in the same way. There is a whole color range in in 4x4 and 6x6 tiles. These are nice but basic tiles . Many manufacturers make these, including Florida Tile, Dal Tile and Interceramic that I can think of. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:tile itself
There is a powered floor scrapper that can be rented. You have to buy the blade but it isn't that expensive. Most good tool rentals have them.
Q:I was wondering about space between tile when laying tile floor. I have seen online and in person tile floors(don‘t know marble or porcelain or what) where it is completely flat and smooth and the tiles appear butted together. I prefer this look as opposed to the typical tile floor with grout lines that are shallower than the tops of the tile. I was wondering how to get this flat look when every where I have read online says you cannot or at least should not butt tiles together. I hope I described what im looking for accurately and am hoping to get some options. Again I am looking for a flat smooth surface nothing with the dips or recesses of the grout lines. how is that done??
Installing a floor with that kind of precision is not easy. Any mismatch in elevation and you can end up with a sharp corner or edge to cut your foot as you walk along. Personally, I'd opt for the grout lines. But yes, I understand you don't want them. So I guess I shouldn't have even bothered answering because I do not answer your question. Sorry. Best of luck with your project. '')
Q:my tiles are filthy....theres white dust every where and I guess what ever they used to patch the wall or something on the floor....I swept and mopped but it still looks horrible.
tile lab makes a heavy duty cleaner and stripper for tiles you can try that.
Q:I‘m in the process of re-tiling my bathroom and when I took the old tiles off some of the old grout stayed on the walls or in some areas messed up the dry wall surface. I‘m looking for recommendations of how to either remove the old grout from the wall, or how to smooth the surface over the area in order to lay the new tiles. Suggestions?
If a putty knife or even rough sandpaper wont knock it off. It's really not a big deal to knock out the old sheetrock and install new. Just cut your old sheetrock about an inch from where your new tiles will stop, bust out everything in the tiling field, and screw in a new piece. This is easy to do because you dont have to worry about texture or tape and bedding, it's going to be covered by tile. Just make sure you replace the sheetrock with the exact same thickness. It's not as hard as you think.
Q:I have asbestos tiles in my basement (of a home I recently purchased). I sent them off to a lab for testing. The lab results came back 4% asbestos. I definitely want to remove the tiles. The majority of the tiles are in good shape. Some of the corners on a few of them are cracking. Right now I am considering the DIY vs. hiring the pros for removalI have been given conflicting advise thus far. Some say do it yourself, there is a very low percentage of asbestos in your tiles -- 4%. Others say Don‘t risk it, pay for the peace of mind. Here are my questions: Is 4% a low percentage for asbestos tiles? Is this low enough to be trivial or of lessor concern when taking on DIY removal? The pros quoted me $1300 for removal and an additional $275 for an air quality test/certification. Is this a fair price for about 500 square feet of tiles? Is air quality testing really necessary given the low percentage of asbestos in my tiles? Or, are they just making money off the fear and hysteria around asbestos?
You can put things over the asbestos but if you ever sell the house it'll cost y you. It's very expensive to remove asbestos because if you break it up and disturb it in the removal process everything has to be sealed off. I'm guessing a few grand to do that job. If you don't plan on ever selling you can just tile over it with little issue. You may not have to abate the asbestos if you sell but if you sell without telling them it's in there you can get into a lawsuit so be aware. He is right about it being only harmful if disturbed though.
Q:I live in a single-level ranch style house but on a concrete pad. I am re-tiling the kitchen floor. Upon removing the old tile, I discovered a 15 lb. felt pad had been glued to the floor; on top of this pad was thin set; then the tile. I live in Bakersfield, CA which is a dry and arrid climate.
YIKES!! Even in the High Desert of California, there is moisture underground. But, getting to your question: a) If your pad was poured over a vapor barrier (visqueen, typically), you do not need to add anything new *as a vapor barrier*. b) It cannot hurt to install a sealer on top of the concrete before you install new tile in any case. That will reduce the dusting in any case. c) But I am thinking that the felt paper you found was installed as a strain-relief rather than a vapor-barrier. It allows the tile to move differently than the concrete slab. This becomes important if there are extreme changes in outside temperature - which penetrates the edges of the slab and varies with the time-of-day - with relatively constant temperature inside. If the tile is bonded directly to the concrete as those temperature changes take place it will begin to spall and separate - not good as even a few fractions of an inch of difference will be enough to break the bond between the tile and the concrete. Were it up to me, I would install a strain-relief (AKA underlayment) with the new tile. There are liquid applications (Laticrete) and sheet goods (Durock) which come to mind and are very effective as a bond-breaker yet give a solid, reliable surface to hold the tile. These are only two of many and are linked below.
Q:hi i started a tile job yesterday. i was supposed to pull up the old linoleum tile and put new linoleum yile. the only problem was that the ols tile had been put over older tile without being pulled up. so i chipped away a little at a time and it just seemed like it took a long long time. i have blisters all over my right fingers and hand. i still have a big patch to finish tonight, and if anyone knows how to get this stuff up faster please let me know, thank you
I have used a long-handled ice scraper that was sharpened. It didn't necessarily make the job easier, but at least I could stand up! It also gives you better leverage. OH, and wear gloves to protect uour hands.

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