• Polished Glazed Tile The Beige Stone CMAXSB1301 System 1
  • Polished Glazed Tile The Beige Stone CMAXSB1301 System 2
Polished Glazed Tile The Beige Stone CMAXSB1301

Polished Glazed Tile The Beige Stone CMAXSB1301

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1325 m²
Supply Capability:
10000000 m²/month

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Key Specifications/Special Features of Glazed Tile :

 

1. Material: glazed porcelain

2. Antique feel, Metal Image

3. Low water absorption

4. Strong in hardness

5. Coordination in color and luster

6. Usage Area: home, office, hotel, government and corporate projects, flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring

7. Style: simple, classic, elegant and splendid in color

8. Good in abrasion and chemical corrosion-resistant

9. Resistance to thermal shock

10. Available in various sizes and colors

 

 

Primary Competitive Advantages of Glazed Tile:

 

 

1. All product of rustic ceramic tiles are of top grade AAAA

  

2. CE certificate, ISO9001:2008 and ISO14001:2004

  

3. OEM accepted.

  

4. Speial dimensions available according to your floor tiles request.

  

5. Best Quality with best price, strictly quality control.

  

6. On time delivery, in general 7-10days.

 

7. Best after sale service, customer can follow their porcelain tiles order situation any time. no matter on product line, warehouse or shipment.

 

 

Main Export Markets:

 

 

1. Asia

2. Australasia

3. Central/South America

4. Eastern Europe

5. Mid East/Africa

6. North America

7. Western Europe

 

Specification:

 

Tile type:

Ceramic tile

Material:

Porcelain

Size(MM) :

600x600mm

Thickness(MM):

9mm

Water Absorption:

≤0.5%

Color:

Available in all designs and colors

Usage:

Used in floor

Surface treatment:

Glazed surface

Features:

Professional triple-burning in oven, which makes our tiles more excellent quality.

Function:

Acid-Resistant, Antibacterial, Heat Insulation, Non-Slip, Wear-Resistant, Anti-fouling easy to clean

Packaging:

600x600mm: 4pcs/box,28kg/box,standard cartons and 

wooden pallets packing

Remark:

All kind of designs can be produced according

 to your requirements

Quality

Surface quality:

95% tiles no defect from 0.8 away uprightly

Breaking strength:

As require

Resistance to thermal shock:

Without crack and flaw after 10 times anti heat shock test

Brightness:

≥55

Frost-resistance:

No crack or spalling after frost resistance test

 

Product Picture:

 

Polished Glazed Tile The Beige Stone CMAXSB1301

 

 

 

   ceramic tile

 

 

  ceramic tile

 

 

Packing Pictures

 

  ceramic tile

 

 

  Glazed Tile CMAX-BR653

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q: I have painstakingly cleaned and restored victorian age tiles in hall (using natural and eco products). Wondering what to seal with? Found few eco tile sealants but wondered if anyone used any without distorting the colour? Thanks :)
Most tile have a glazed finish so unless it dose not have it,it will be difficult to seal.You don`t mention wheat her its wall or floor tiles,if it wall tiles you might get away with it.If it floor tiles I think it will cause a problem by walk over it.
Q: i going to tile my whole house both floors bath room and all with the same tile it is a 20x20 tile diagonally where should i start and does it really matter where ?
Start doing the largest area and do a 1/2 tile on the out side wall. All interior walls are supposed to be layed out to the out side and be square. Now if you have a long visible hall way near by, you may want to split that to get a good look at it from there. Its hard to positively say with out seeing it. I could visualize it then. Since this is a diagonal you cant control to much where the tiles land. If it were a straight lay, you d have a bit more control as to the layout. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: We have a basic, square foot tiles - rough ceramic floor, standard grade in a white-ish shade (HATE IT!). It is always dirty looking! Nothing keeps it clean. Can we stain it or paint it like people do cement floors??? Anyone done this? How? Thanks!
No you cannot paint it. 2 options. 1 tear it up and replace it with whatever you think needs no maintenance(concrete ). or 2 , try washing the floor with T.S.P. , then rinse it and seal the tiles with a quality sealer. You still have to wash the floor at least once a week . But it will all ways look as good as you want.
Q: I bought 12 x 12 ceramic tile from Lowe‘s branded as SURFACE SOURCE with a PEI rating 4. I bought each tile for $0.58 each. I want to use the tile for the kitchen, bathrooms, laundry room and living room. The tile was made in Mexico. I think the tile was being discontinued at Lowe‘s. Thus, I think that is why the price was so low. Did I make a mistake? The tile looks good and feels good so I do not see a problem with. I need an honest opinion.
It will not wear as long as more durable higher priced tile, but it will last for many, many years. By the time it needs replaced again you'll probably have moved or want to replace it anyway. So, no, I don't think that you made a mistake if it is installed correctly.
Q: Can you lay down those adhesive floor tiles on top of existing tiles? If so, what kind of prep do you need to do to make sure they stick properly. I‘m not sure what type of tiles are in place now, but they are similiar to the types used in schools and other institutions. Very cheap, flexible, and bland. I want to lay something down in place of them, but don‘t want to rip them up. Is that possible? Thanks!
That partially depends on how heavy the tiles are and the reinforcement of your wall. I remember when asking about putting tiling in my kitchen that for large areas of wall tile you need a special drywall or wall reinforcement. You may also need a special adhesive to add in addition to the self adhesive since the floor tiles will be put up in a manner that they are not truly designed for.
Q: Dongpeng tiles I know more famous, but Dongpeng sanitary ware is their home Well? Dongpeng still have to sell sanitary ware?
There is ah! Are ceramic products! Foreign Wrigley, Kohler (USA), Lejia (Spain), TOTO (Japanese devils, not recommended to buy).
Q: Chinese tiles before the top 30 ranking
One, ten ceramic brand 1, Nobel 2, Marco Polo 3, Dong Peng 4, Mona Lisa 5, crown beads 6, Samit 7, Smick 8, Europe God Connaught 9, Hongyu 10, the new source line Brand: Nobel, Marco Polo, Dong Peng, Mona Lisa, crown beads, Samit, Ou Shen Connaught, Smick, Hongyu, new source, champion, Asia, strong, Glice, strong Hui, Shun Hui, Wales, Romario, gold pottery, Bode, Europe and the United States, Eagle, Tao Yi Lang, special, Xing Hui, LD, red spider, Second-tier brands: Omega, Italy Po, Jin Chaoyang, Huiya, generals, the United States and pottery, Garcia, in the source Long Gao, Hui million, Monte Carlo, Huide Bang, the new South Wyatt, Hong Tao , Jin Tao famous, Lee home, Fan Xiang 1860, Zhuo Yuan, Louis modern, Association into the three brands: the state, Grammy, Weiluo, St. De Bao, New Guangdong, Jinke, Heng Fu, Yu Jing, , Big Rome, Louis Valentino, health, gold Li Gao, Jia Na, Polaroid Ruijia, John Li, Fanoa, pottery master
Q: I have a small round accent table with formica top. I‘d like to try my hand at mosaic tiling on the top. Is it possible to do this over the formica, or do I have to remove it. If so, what do I use to prep the formica before tiling. p.s. I‘ve never tiled anything before. Using this as a learning project.Thanks for any suggestions, tips.
Lightly sand the formica and then prime it with kilz it. Let it dry and go to town with your mosaic. I did this to a kitchen island 7 years ago and it's still holding up.
Q: I have some cracked squares in my kitchen.It is caused from the subfloor coming up in one section.What is the best way to remove old tiles and screw floor back down to and replace with extras that I have.I have the glue left over also to use on them.I know my husband had hard time getting them up once before.Tired of waiting for hubby to do it.Any easy ways for me to get tile up.
Get the biggest hammer you can find, the biggest screw driver, the biggest pry bar and just before your hubby gets home place them on the floor and act like your getting ready to go at it, I bet it won't be long before you can watch how its done :) My mother would do this and it worked ever time.
Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

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