PHOSPHATED STEEL WIRE FOR REDRAWING
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- Q: I just removed a Australian light switch that I've never seen before that controlled a bathroom ceiling fan and the bathroom light. (both buttons on a single panel switch)I have a black wire coming from the switch box that has 2 other black wires splitting out from the connection point, one of each going to the fan and the light. And a single black wire going to the ceiling fan and a red wire to the light.I'm just putting in your everyday off/on switch one for each the fan and the light. any help? what are the positive and negative wires?
- If you are putting in two single pole switches, one for light and one for fan then each switch has two lugs. Take the two black wires that split from one connection point and tie one to one lug of a switch and tie the other black to one lug of the second switch. This will leave you with one remaining lug on each switch. Then tie the remaining black to the first switch and the red to the other switch.
- Q: How do I wire an outlet that has two black and to white wires. It this case the white being the HOT wires?? Don't know why all the white wires in my house are HOT.. And the black are nuetral???
- If as you say white are (hot) .This situation it's called reverse wiring and has violation .In the main control box check the weirs if white is connect to the neutral terminal (a plate with lot of screws) and black is exit from breakers ,your wiring is correct and may one place in circuit branch by mistake neutral is connect to the hot and hot to neutral (ammature work).
- Q: What does the quot;Hstand for in quot;AWG 34Hwire?Also, would Heavy Poly Nylon magnetic wire be considered enameled?
- Magnet wire is often called varnished or enameled, but it is actually insulated with a thin coating of insulating material designed specifically for the purpose. I assume that heavy poly nylon material is one of those materials. The H is probably the temperature class of the insulation. Class H insulation is rated to operate at up to 180 degrees C. Edit 1 The H could also stand for heavy as in the heavy build or double build terminology used to describe thicker than standard insulation. It is part of a specific manufacturer's catalog number rather than a part of the American Wire Gauge (AWG) designation. Manufacturer's sell many different varieties of magnet wire. The manufacturer's literature and NEMA or IEC standards provide details regarding the insulation materials used and the electrical and mechanical characteristics of the wire.
- Q: -note-NOT . resistance wire.resistance OF A wire :)lol sorry, just had so many people give me resistance wire.thats not what i want :Li want ..what is the resistance of a wire?its for my science :) pleasee help
- It okorder /... Good luck in your studies, ~ Mitch ~
- Q: Ceiling lights wire guage
- It may depend on whether you are connecting to an existing circuit or you are running an entirely new one from your panel. If you are connecting to existing circuitry, then you need to check the breaker size. If it is a 15 amp circuit, then #14 is acceptable. If it is a 20 amp, then you must use at least #12. It is very unlikely that you are required to use #10. NEC does not require it for a 20 amp circuit. If you are running a new circuit, then you have your choice. Just make sure that the breaker sizes and wire sizes match as described above. Contrary to the advice of some, it is just fine to run a 15 amp / #14 circuit for lights. The key is to avoid overloading the circuit. If you are just going to add a couple of fixtures, then the 15 amp will be fine. If you are adding 20 recessed can fixtures, you might consider the 20 amp circuit option. If you think that you are going to add more to the new circuit later, consider that when you decide which size to use. The difference comes in working with the wire. #14 is much easier to bend and work with. I certainly would not attempt to use #10 unless you actually do have some weird local codes that require it.
- Q: my light stopped working ( a chandalier ). It has brown wires, blue wires, red wires, beige wires, and white wires.
- If you have an Ohmmeter you can trace the chandelier wiring out. Each socket in the chandelier has two connections, the threaded part of the base and the very bottom of the base. The safest way to wire it is to run the hot to the bottom of the base and the neutral to the threaded part of the socket. Anyway you should be able to ohm each wire out to see where they go, then hook all the wires going to the bottom together and to the black wire in the junction box, then all the wired going to the threaded connection together and to the white wire in the junction box.
- Q: Hello, I have a 4 year old Trane XR12 unit. Recently the compressor fan is noisy, and now stops when when under power after 5-10 min. The main fuses and breakers are fine, the fan spins freely when turned, the contactor pulls in fine, the dual capacitor checks out. But, the wiring of the capacitor does not match wire diagrams. Could this have caused the fan motor to prematurely fail?..............................Terminal: C red wire, FAN brown wire, HERM has both orange and purple. Schematic shows the purple wire should be with red wire on common C. The purple also leads to fan.
- Hi, I looked at the schematic on-line. If you still have the original fan motor in the unit then you are correct. The center terminal on the capacitor should have the red wire from the T1 terminal of the contactor, the red wire from the compressor, and the purple wire from the fan. The FAN terminal should have the brown wire from the fan. The HERM terminal should have the orange wire from the compressor. The black wire from the fan and the black/blue wire from the compressor should lead back to the T2 terminal of the contactor. Again, that is if the motor is the original motor. If it was replaced at some point in time, the wiring colors can change from manufacturer to manufacturer, in which case it's possible that the new motor is wired correctly. There should be a diagram on the motor to show you the correct wiring configuration.
- Q: How do you wire an electrical outlet and light switch in a bathroom? Box is existing, wires existing.
- The first trick is to identify the wires. White wires will normally be neutral; there will be at least two colored or black wires, one of which will be the hot supply wire. Use a neon tester ($2 at a hardware store) to idenify which. If all of the white wires were tied together, then the switch will simply connect the two colored wires to each other; brush these together to verify that the light flashes. Now turn off the power at the breaker box. Connect the hot supply wire to a brass screw on the outlet, and attach a 6 piece of black wire to the other brass screw. Connect the joined white wires to a nickel-plated screw (you may need a wire nut and short piece of white wire to do this). Connect the short black wire to one of the screws on the switch, and the existing black wire to the other screw. And that should do it. Note that a double-width box is necessary for this. Code requires that a GFCI device be used in all bathroom outlets. If there is not one in the breaker box servicing the line to the bathroom, you should use a GFCI outlet device (about $12) rather than a conventional outlet. You can get a cover plate to match.
- Q: what are the differences between wired and wireless microphones? and what are the Pros and Cons of having a wired mic, pros and cons of a wireless?Thanks......
- The instant one does no longer have the mute function together as the under pressure out one does. The instant one you ought to cost whilst it dies and the cable isn't long adequate to attain your ear together as its plugged into the console.
- Q: Question:What is the point of new wires? Everyone keeps saying thicker wire. What does that thicker wire do? Does it carry a different force? I thought the ligature bands is what gives the wire the force? I'm kind of confused!Also, do you get a thicker wire everytime? Is this thicker wire visibly thicker and noticable?Does the thicker wire cause a drastic diff in pain?Thank you for your help and answering my question about my previous question.
- No, you can't physically see the difference in the thicker wire, but you can feel the difference when they first put it in. It will feel kind of heavier and tighter. It won't last long though...maybe 2 or 3 days and you'll get used to it. No, you won't get a thicker wire at every visit.
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PHOSPHATED STEEL WIRE FOR REDRAWING
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
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- Payment Terms:
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