Low Voltage Copper Conductor PVC Insulation Wire Cable

Low Voltage Copper Conductor PVC Insulation Wire Cable

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 m

Supply Capability:: 20000 m/month

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Standard

IEC 60227

Application

Low voltage copper conductor PVC insulation wire cable is widely used in commercial and residential construction projects of nominal voltage not exceeding 450/750V a.c.

Product Description

1) Conductor: class 1, 2 and 5 copper, tinned or plain

2) Sectional area: 0.12 - 400mm2

3) No. of cores: 1 ~ 60

4) Insulation: PVC

5) Oversheath: PVC

6) Max. conductor DC resistance at 20°c

Sectional Area (mm2)	0.5	0.75	1.0	1.5	2.5	4	6	10	16	25
Plain Copper (Ω/km)	36.0	24.5	18.1	12.1	7.41	4.61	3.08	1.83	1.15	0.727
Tinned Copper (Ω/km)	36.7	24.8	18.2	12.2	7.56	4.70	3.11	1.84	1.16	0.734
Sectional Area (mm2)	35	50	70	95	120	150	185	240	300	400
Plain Copper (Ω/km)	0.524	0.387	0.268	0.193	0.153	0.124	0.0791	0.0754	0.0601	0.0470
Tinned Copper (Ω/km)	0.529	0.391	0.270	0.195	0.154	0.126	0.100	0.0762	0.0607	0.0475

Product Models

Code	Description	Rated Voltage (V)	No. of cores	Sectional area (mm2)
60227IEC01	Single-core non-sheathed cable with rigid conductor for general purposes	450/750	1	1.5-400
60227IEC02	Single-core non-sheathed cable with flexible conductor for general purposes	450/750	1	1.5-240
60227IEC05	Single-core non-sheathed cable with solid conductor for internal wiring for a conductor temperature of 70 °C	300/500	1	0.5-1
60227IEC06	Single-core non-sheathed cable with flexible conductor for internal wiring for a conductor temperature of 70 °C	300/500	1	0.5-1
60227IEC07	Single-core non-sheathed cable with solid conductor for internal wiring for a conductor temperature of 90 °C	300/500	1	0.5-2.5
60227IEC08	Single-core non-sheathed cable with flexible conductor for internal wiring for a conductor temperature of 90 °C	300/500	1	0.5-2.5
60227IEC10	Light polyvinyl chloride sheathed cable	300/500	2, 3, 4, 5	1.5 - 35
60227IEC41	Flat tinsel cord	300/300	2	-
60227IEC43	Cord for indoor decorative lighting chains	300/300	1	0.5-0.75
60227IEC52	Light polyvinyl chloride sheathed cord	300/300	2, 3	0.5-0.75
60227IEC53	Ordinary polyvinyl chloride sheathed cord	300/500	2, 3, 4, 5	0.75 - 2.5
60227IEC56	Heat resistant light PVC sheathed cord for a maximum conductor temperature of 90 degrees	300/300	2, 3	0.5-0.75
60227IEC57	Heat resistant ordinary PVC sheathed cord for a maximum conductor temperature of 90 degrees	300/500	2, 3, 4, 5	0.75-2.5
60227IEC71f	Flat polyvinyl chloride sheathed lift cable and cable for flexible connections	450/750	3-24	0.75-25
60227IEC71c	Circular polyvinyl chloride sheathed lift cable and cable for flexible connections	450/750	4~30	0.75-25
60227IEC74	Oil resistance, polyvinyl chloride sheathed, screened flexible cable	300/500	2-60	0.75-2.5
60227IEC75	Oil resistance, polyvinyl chloride sheathed, unscreened flexible cable	300/500	2-60	0.75-2.5

Q:I have a water pump that is connected directly to the electrical panel in my home. I want to cut the wire, install two extension cord ends, and re-connect the wire. By doing this, I will be able to unplug the pump from the electrical panel and plug it into a generator when needed.My question is whether I need to pay attention to polarity when connecting the extension cord ends? If I get the wires reversed, will it cause a problem? I guess if I reverse the wires on both the male and female ends, it should work fine when connected to the electrical panel (because both the male and female are reversed, which should net to the same thing). I am concerned about when I plug the thing into a generator. If I accidentally switch the wires around the wrong way, what will happen?: The adapters are called cord caps. These are standard in North America. When you open the cap and access the connection points there are 3 screws. Green is the ground or bare wire, the white goes to the silver screw, the black to the brass colored screw. Follow that color sequence and you should have no problems. This applies only if the pump is 120 volt. If it is a well supply pump it may be 240 volt and you need special cord caps and then only the ground is critical. Since you are in doubt about the electrical work, contact a qualified professional electrician in your area to do the work if you still have problems.

Q:I am installing a new light switch on the inside of an exterior wall in my walkout basement. Because of the floor joists and finished ceiling, the only way I can figure to get the wiring to that location is by punching it through to the outside and running it along the wall and over to the location of the switch. This run will be about 30ft long and go around one corner. My question is: Can I do this with bare UF (outdoor romex) wire? Or will the wire need to be installed in a conduit?: You said circuit breakers. If more then one breaker is tripping you should call an electrician. If just one is tripping and you can turn off the main breaker, take the wire off the breaker and put it on another one. If it trips that one too, you have a short somewhere and should get help. If it doesn't trip that breaker then the you have a bad breaker. If you haven't worked with electricity before, don't even take the cover off the breaker box. Call someone that has.

Q:The voltage is low and the aging of the wire: VRV internal and external signal lines can be used to control the cable, the main control line is not allowed, because the signal line is usually 1.5 square below. VRV power supply: indoor unit 220V needs: zero line N, line of fire L, grounding protection PE380V need: zero line N, fire line L. FireWire L. FireWire L. ground protection PE outdoor unit 220V need: zero line N, FireWire L, grounding protection PE380V need: zero line N, fire line L. FireWire L. FireWire L. ground protection PE signal line indoor and outdoor machine communication line according to the manufacturers of communication control is not the same, generally need double-core shielded wire Yes, section 0.75-1.5mm?.

Q:i need another outlet in my room and i am thinking of running a heavy duty electrical wire (about 25 ft long) through my window an into my bedroom. my question is. is if it is safe to leave the wire running around the back of my house when it rains? does anyone know whether the outdoor wires you usually use for electrical edgers, blowers, etc. can withstand the rain while it is being used?: It is unsafe and a code violation in the US.

Q:I have changed lights in my own home many times. I bought a new light for my parents bathroom, but when I put it up I realized they had an electrical outlet on there too. My new light has a black and white wire. Coming from the house it has gray, green, 2 white, black and red. Can I cap off the ones I don't need? Which ones are which? Any help would be greatly appreciated.: You will need to pull the switch out also---sounds like the box is also a junction for other wiring also---- see which color wires are used for the switch leg---the whites are all probably neutrals--- the green ground You'll need a meter to find out which wire is hot or do you know already? Or tell me what color the two wires are at the switch?

Q:Does anyone know what the voltage means on electrical wire sheathing? Some 14AWG wires show 600V and others are 800V.I have a burnt wire that shows 1000V.They are all 14AWG, stranded, copper wire. I just don't know what the voltage rating means. Does the wire support up to that many volts or does the sheath resist heat better the higher the number is?: It probably means that the insulation on the wire conforms to some standard, and that the cable may LEGALLY be used for permanent wiring in a building at voltages up to whatever number. It's not about heat. When power wiring in a building gets hot, it's strictly because of the amperage that the circuit is carrying, not the voltage. High voltages are a problem because of the tendency to arc. Electric fields are measured in Volts/meter (i.e., the voltage difference between two conductors, divided by the distance between them.) Any given electric insulator will break down and allow current to flow if the field strength is high enough. Cables that are rated for higher voltages either use an insulating material that has a higher dielectric strength (i.e., able to withstand stronger fields), or they use bulkier insulation, so that the distance between the conductors is greater.

Q:I need to run the following:2 x 50 watt filter2 x 500 watt heaterAnd the place that I need to run it is about 300 feet away. What gauge electrical cord do I need???Thanks in advance!: According to your figures, you are gonna have about 1100 watts load, that would normally need a 14 gauge supply line with a 15 amp circuit breaker. However the 300 feet run will change that, there is gonna be quite a large voltage drop for that distance. I would run a 10/3 and use a 20 amp circuit breaker. That is assuming that you will not have anything else on the circuit. If you do then I would go with a 30 amp breaker. Also if this is gonna be running out side you will need to get wire that is rated for that. Personally I would use bury able wire and enclose it in 2 inch PVC, buried at least 24 inches.

Q:How is the color of the three wires?: Home distribution lines: three colors in any of the colors for the phase line L; in addition to the three colors other colors can be working ground N; yellow and green color line for the protection of ground line PE. DC line: red for the positive; black for the negative. The third line of color should be determined according to the use of their own Oh. By the way, your question, it is too difficult to understand, should first want to ask what the problem, and then clearly expressed.

Q:I understand that buisnesses like vonage, and Comcast do not repair telephone wiring(the actual physical wiring outside) is this correct?There was an accident on our property severing the phones lines. The reason I ask, is because the electrician said, if THEY say I have to fix it. Who is they?: Question: Is electrician the one who repairs the telephone wiring? Answer: HELL NO!! Sparky may be good for electrical wiring, but they do not know telephone wiring and *cause* problems for telephone repairmen when they try. Not to mention you are asking about inside wire. Judge I rot in Hell Green gave your inside wiring to for you and you can play with your own inside wire, or get a Sparky to screw it up, or call an ex-telco technician to run and/or repair ir, or get it done correctly by the Telephone Company technician's. But you said OUTSIDE wire. Outside wire, the big cables along the utility poles, span and/or pole terminals, the drop wire from the pole to your house, *and* the protector, now called a Network Interface Device (NID) is actually and legally belongs to the Telephone Company -- ATT, Verizon, whatever owns where you live. It is *illegal* for you or vonage or Comcast or a electrician to work on our wiring. Not to mention they don't have the wire, terminals, tools or especially the knowledge to repair drops and outside wire. Call your local telephone company and tell them that *their* wire is on the ground and to get it fixed. If the person from the phone from India cannot understand what you are talking, stop a real telephone technician (you know cause their van/truck says ATT or whatever) and tell them.

Q:I have two lights that are wired into one light switch. I would like advice on what would be the easiest way to separate them and put the second light onto it's own switch.: This maybe quick and easy. After you turn off the power, remove the switch and: Look at the wires on the switch and see if the following situation exist. One wire all by itself. One wire that splices to 2 other wires (a total of 3 under a wire nut) If so, the 2 wires that are spliced together MAY be individual switch legs to each light. One way to find out is to use a meter (with the power on and the switch off) and test it. No meter? Remove one wire from the splice (put the wire nut back on) and restore power. If one light works and one doesn't, you are in luck. If neither light works, stop put it all back together. You can't do it from here. But if the single wire was the hot: Get a stack switch a.k.a. combination switch. Look carefully at the sides of the new switch. On one side there is a small piece of metal between the 2 screws. That is the hot connection. Take the single wire off the old switch and put it there. On the other side the 2 screws are totally separate from each other. This is where the other 2 wires will go. One on each screw of course. Hope you got lucky.

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