Hot Dipped Galvanized Military Concertina Razor Wire Bto-22

Hot Dipped Galvanized Military Concertina Razor Wire Bto-22 System 1

Hot Dipped Galvanized Military Concertina Razor Wire Bto-22

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 5 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 5000 m.t./month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Razor Wire Packing Details

1. compression rolls, 5rolls, 10rolls, or more rolls as one bundle

2. water-proof paper inside with woven bag outside

3. 1roll, 3rolls or 5rolls in one carton

4. as customer request

Q: What would the wire size be for a 3 phase 4 wire - 480/277V - 400A panelboard. Would it be (3) 600mcm w/ (1) 1/0 ground?: Well not quite: 1. The panelboard is 4 wire therefore the (3) in the description would be (4). The 4th wire is for the neutral and required if you are using the 277. Otherwise the panelboard is a 3 wire board and no 277 2. 600 kcmil copper with 75°C insulation is able to carry 420 A as long as the ambient temperature < 86°F (30°C) and are installed by themselves (not in a raceway/cable tray with other power conductors). If the conductors are aluminum, the temperature is hot, the installation has multiple conductors in the same raceway/cable tray, or the distance is of sufficient length resulting in unacceptable voltage drop, the cable must be derated -- read you must increase the size to 750 kcmil or increase the insulation rating to 90°C The ground conductor should be of sufficient size

Q: I have 16 gauge speaker wire, but i need a lower gauge. instead of spending money and buying a lower gauge can i double this wire up and have that make it a lower gauge? so i would have 2 negative and 2 positive wires going into the terminal.: No. 8 ga wire is much thicker than 16, even if you double it. Buy the right wire and eliminate the risk of an electrical fire. The wire is much cheaper than replacing your car.

Q: I am moving a stove that has four wires - bare copper (ground), red, white, and black.The location I am putting it in only has three wires - red, white, and black.Can I just ignore the ground on the new location since it doesn't have one? Or should I cross one of the other wires with the ground?: Your four-wire stove has a terminal where you can connect the bare/green and white wires together, most have a jumper to connect the two terminals. You don't want to leave any wires unconnected. The other two wires (red black) are connected the same way between 3-wire and 4-wire units. You'll have to buy a 3-wire cable for your stove to plug it into the 3-wire receptacle. The new code requires 4-wire connections. The bare/green wire and the white neutral wire are run back to the circuit breaker panel separately at which point the are connected together on a buss bar.

Q: I have a bathroom exhaust fan with a light and heater function. The Heater has a red and white wire and the fan and lights have a black, a blue and two whites. There is a three switch outlet on the wall in the bathroom controlling these functions. In the attic there are 3 different wires going to the exhaust fan that I can't find out how to connect. There are 3 blacks, 3 whites and 3 grounds. How should I hook the switch to the exhaust fan wires? Please help: Blue, black, and red are all hot wires. Just attach each hot wire and its corresponding white wire to each switches black hot wire and white wire. When finished each switch will turn on the heater, light, or fan.

Q: i need to know which wire is which in a 1999 dodge stratus for the cars stereo: its usually pretty easy if you look online just goodle it red is usually constant power yellow is usually switched power black is usually ground blue is usually for the rem wire the rest are speaker wires or are not used good luck

Q: Hello, I have a 4 year old Trane XR12 unit. Recently the compressor fan is noisy, and now stops when when under power after 5-10 min. The main fuses and breakers are fine, the fan spins freely when turned, the contactor pulls in fine, the dual capacitor checks out. But, the wiring of the capacitor does not match wire diagrams. Could this have caused the fan motor to prematurely fail?..............................Terminal: C red wire, FAN brown wire, HERM has both orange and purple. Schematic shows the purple wire should be with red wire on common C. The purple also leads to fan.: Hi, I looked at the schematic on-line. If you still have the original fan motor in the unit then you are correct. The center terminal on the capacitor should have the red wire from the T1 terminal of the contactor, the red wire from the compressor, and the purple wire from the fan. The FAN terminal should have the brown wire from the fan. The HERM terminal should have the orange wire from the compressor. The black wire from the fan and the black/blue wire from the compressor should lead back to the T2 terminal of the contactor. Again, that is if the motor is the original motor. If it was replaced at some point in time, the wiring colors can change from manufacturer to manufacturer, in which case it's possible that the new motor is wired correctly. There should be a diagram on the motor to show you the correct wiring configuration.

Q: Please help. I am trying to fit a new light into a house with old wiring.My new light just has a connection block with 1 blue wire and 1 brown wire. When I removed the old light there are 5 wires coming from the ceiling. 1 black and 1 red coming from one lead and 1 black and 1 red coming from the other. Any ideas how I wire this up. Many thanks.: before to many Americans jump in - I have to say the colours you are quoting make me sure you are in the UK - so :- If there are only 4 wires (not 5 as you say at one point) then join the two reds together in a connector block and tape that up completely with insulating tape and make sure it is safe somewhere - many light fittings have an additional connection just for this purpose. Now connect the blue from the light to one black and the brown to the other black wire (it does not really matter which to which although purists may like you to find the true live for the brown) If however there are 5 wires you need to do a bit more investigation . EDIT - the two earth wires should be securely joined together to make sure that earth continuity is maintained throughout the rest of the house - then tape them up - preferably with green and yellow tape but black will do and tuck them back up into the ceiling as far away from the two reds as you can manage. ....

Q: I recently bought a set of DT Moto emergency lights for my pickup and after installing them i found when i went to wire them to my battery the wire was too short. I didn't install the grille lights just the visor. Could i cut wires from the grille set and wire them to extend the visor light wire?: I'm looking online to find out what DT Moto lights are. Ok, I see what they are. I didn't know the brand name. LED lights in general are not high current, so they probably use lamp cord. I want to explain something to you about polarity. Electronic circuits are sensitive to the polarity of the DC electricity. The positive (+) and the negative (-) connections must be observed. So many people have absolutely no clue about this. There are just two wires. But if you extend them, you have a 50-50 chance of wiring correctly or incorrectly. There is only one allowable way. If wrong, it WON'T work, and probably will blow up the circuitry. So connection to battery or cigarette lighter plug is extremely important not to reverse the polarity. If just the LED lights got reversed, they wouldn't light, but they wouldn't be injured. Just reverse the wiring. But to the 12 volt source, polarity can't be wrong. Not for an instant. If you look closely at the insulation, you will see that one wire has smooth insulation, and one wire either has milti-ribbed insulation, or a single rib down the side. If you extend wiring, make sure to connect smooth to smooth and ribbed to ribbed. Wires should be soldered with electronic solder and the joints covered with heat shrink tubing. No crimped barrel connectors, or twisted bare wires with tape, or house wiring wire nuts. These methods all beg for failure. I don't know about robbing wire from one place and connecting to another. Is the one wire actually too long? You'll never need it? I guess you could take it. But me personally, I'd go get some wire from a lamp store. Match the wire conductor gauge (size), not the insulation size. Most lamp cord is 18 gauge. Some is 16 gauge. You can get 14 gauge or even 12 gauge. Thicker is a smaller number. Places that install car audio systems often have/sell thicker lamp cord. Have I told you enough?

Q: I have just started wire working to make bracelets. I have a few questions. 1, is there a place where I can buy thick wire (16 to 18 gauge) in bulk? The items I am making take about a yard of wire. Considering the only thing I could find was 16 (or slightly hire) gauge in 7 foot increments. For new wire workers, do you have any suggestions on cheap practice materials. Also for those things that don't turn out great, what do you guys do with them?: For okorder /

Q: Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.: Depending on the size of the hole in the beads, I usually run the wire down throw about 2 inches worth of beads; then crimp and clip. This also ensures that if the necklace if caught and pulled you have about 2 inches of slack before you are chasing beads on the floor. If you hole in the beads are small you can do two different things. 1) find a coordinating bead with larger holes that you can end the necklace with on both sides of the catch 2) Be sure your wire is running straight back down the original wire after going through the crimp, then crimp and clip.The end of the wire will be straighter and not tend to go out to the side and punch your neck. And unfortunately there is not a solution every time.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit

Company

*More

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request