• Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire System 1
  • Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire System 2
  • Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire System 3
Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire

Hot Dip Galvanized Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
25 m.t.
Supply Capability:
250000000 m.t./month

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Specification

Material:
Stainless Steel Wire,Iron Wire,Copper Wire,Steel Wire,Black Wire Mesh,Brass Wire,Low-Carbon Iron Wire,Aluminum Wire,Galvanized Steel Wire,PVC Coated Steel Wire,Plastic Coated Iron Wire,Aluminum Alloy Wire,Phosphor Bronze Wire,Galvanized Iron Wire
Cross Sectional Shape:
Round,Rectangle,Oval,Triangle
Application:
Construction Wire Mesh,Protectiong Mesh,Fence Mesh,Decorative Mesh,Gabion Mesh,Window Curtain,Barbecue Wire Mesh,Cages
Type:
Steel Coll,Self-Locking,Galvanized,U Type Wire,Insulated,Flat Wire,Loop Tie Wire
Wild in Width:
2.1M,1.8M,1.6M,1.5M,1.1M
Surface Treatment:
Color Coated,PVC Coated,Black,Coated
Metal Wire Drawing:
Cold Drawing,Hot Drawing
Status:
Soft State,In Hard State,Hard State
Thickness:
Metal Fiber,Metal Microfilament,Metal Filament,Metal Thick Wire
Galvanized Technique:
Electro Galvanized,Hot Dipped Galvanized

1.Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire Description

Galvanized Iron Wire has the characteristics of thick zinc coating, good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc. 

Galvanized Iron Wire mainly used in construction, express way fencing, binding of flowers and wire mesh weaving. Galvanized iron wire according to manufacturing technique, it includes hot-dipped galvanized iron wire and electro galvanized iron wire. Mainly telecommunication equipment and materials, medical equipment and device, weaving of wire mesh, steel rope, and filtration mesh, high-pressure pipe, construction, arts and crafts.

2.Main Features of Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire 

• Use widely

• Corrosion- resistant

• Durable 

• Practical use

• Beauty Surface

• Versatile

 

3. Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire Images

 Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire

 

4.Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire Specification

 

Chemical composition

C

Mn

Si

S

P

Guarantee value

≤0.12

0.3~0.6

≤0.35

≤0.035

≤0.040

                                                      

Test Item  

Rm(MPa)

ReL(Mpa)

A(%)

KV2(J)

KV2(J)

Guarantee value

≥420

≥330

≥17

-(normal temperature)

-(0°C)

General result

460~540

≥340

18~26

50~80

≥47

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely 

 

How about your 10 to 15g Zinc Coating and 35kg Tensile Strength Iron Wire Electro Galvanized Iron Wire

One of the most biggest manufacturer & supplier of wires and wire meshis a large-scale professional UAE Market Electric Galvanised Wire BWG 20 0.7mm Hot Dipped Galvnised Wire  factory in China. Annually more than 10000 tons wires and wire mesh are exported to markets all over the world. Different kinds of wires and mesh are available according to customer’s requirements. 

 

What is your Technical Information of Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire?

1).Material: super carbon steel

2).Processing by drawing, hot-dip zinc-plating

3).Standard wire gauge from 8# to 24#

4).Thick zinc-coating layer

5).Super in corrosion resistance

6).Firm coating layer

7).Custom size available

 10 to 15g Zinc Coating and 35kg Tensile Strength Iron Wire Electro Galvanized Iron Wire

How long can we receive the product after payment?

In the purchase of Galvanized Iron Wire within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pacific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be served

Hot Dip Galvanized  Wire For Wire Mesh And Cable Armouring Wire

 

Q: I am replacing my old electric oven with a new one. The wires on the old oven are the same as the wires on the new oven...white, red, black, and a bare wire. The wires running from the fuse box to the junction box are...white, black, and bare wire. This is 220/240 wiring from the fuse box. The oven does require 220/240. How do I wire the new oven?
Short okorder
Q: I have a carrier thermostat with red, green, yellow, white and blue wires. Bought a new honeywell, omly has red, green, yellow and white terminals. What do I do with the blue wire. Right now it is connected to rc with no jumper, but nothing works.
This is an educated guess, even though we don't know how the furnace is wired. In many cases, the blue wire is used for C (common). Tape off or snip off the end of the blue wire and don't use it. Put the red wire on the RC terminal. Jump RC to R or RH if you have heat. Connect the other wires to their corresponding terminals. If blue is common, there's a good chance you blew the fuse on the control board (if your air handler has one) and/or you fried the transformer. That is, if you tried turning on the A/C.
Q: How is commercial wiring differ from residental wiring in design,operation and etc?
Commercial Electrical Wiring
Q: I am trying to install an outside motion activated light fixture, there is a box with a yellow wire that did not have power... I found a white wire with power and joined it to the yellow wire...and after installing the fixture (white wire to white wire, black wire to black wire) my fixture is not turning on... uld it be because of the two kind of wires??
This does not sound like a conventional setup that meets code. There are two ways to connect switched power to a box. The first is to do the switching before the box, in which case you should see one black, one white, and one bare copper wire (ground) coming out of the box. You would hook your fixture as follows: black to black, white to white, and green and bare to the box. The second configuration has the wires from the switch joining the power wires (black, white, ground) in the box. In this case, the black wire should always be hot, no matter what position the light switch is in. The wires from the switch should be the same as from the circuit: black, white and bare copper (ground). What you describe sounds very suspicious, unsafe, and not to code. Unless you are very familiar with safe electrical practices and residential wiring, I suggest you call in an electrician to troubleshoot the problem and correct it.
Q: I dont' know if quot;a wiremeans phone call, or whatever the original sentene from the story is as follows:quot;Because I had a wire from Hilton Cubittthis morning.quot;
Wire is as obsolete a word as telegram or cable, which is what wire stands for.
Q: let me start off with I am not an electrician I just do basic stuff for side work I came in the project at the end. The lady wanted me to wire in 6 receptacles, a light switch and light fixture all on one circuit. everything is good except for the receptacle at the start of the circuit it has the lead/ hot coming in the power to the other receptacles going out and the power to the light going out (3 groups, 9 wires total). normally I would have used a junction box but I didn't pull the wire. How can I wire this. Would a 15 amp receptacle work?
A 15 Amp receptacle will work, of course, but the receptacle box is most likely already overfilled. So in order to keep the wire count down, your best way to go is to buy a receptacle that uses screw down connector tabs. (NOT the kind that you have to put the wire under the screw, but the kind that you insert the wire into the back and then turn the screw down to clamp onto it!) The receptacle is a little more money but it would be worth the expense to make this hook up work. Hot wire (Black): Connect all three black wires to the back of the receptacle on the brass colored screws. Common wire (White): Connect all three white wires to the back of the receptacle on the silver colored screw. Ground: make a short pigtail of bare copper wire (about 6 or 7 inches long). Then connect the pigtail to the other 3 bare copper ground wires using a wire nut. Then connect the other end of the pigtail to the grounding connection of the receptacle. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF WHEN YOU DO ALL OF THIS SO THAT YOU CAN LIVE TO TELL THE TALE! :-)
Q: its an older boat without fuse box, if you go to the manual on the website it gives you the wire layout. I know the radio works but a friend of mine disconnected the wires to try to put a switch in and never reconnected them. I don't know what to do with the ground wire or the red wire. Any suggestions?
the ground wire black is connected to -ve of battery the red wire is connected to ignition wire so when you turn on the keys the radio starts the yellow wire is connected to +ve of battery, but radio will not switch on till red is connected. good luck
Q: A 5.07 m length of 2.1 mm diameter wire carries 703 mA current when 22.3 mV is applied to its ends. Determine the resistivity of the wire.
Resistance of a wire in Ω R = ρL/A ρ is resistivity of the material in Ω-m L is length in meters A is cross-sectional area in m? A = πr?, r is radius of wire in m Use current and voltage to determine resistance. Plug that into the above and solve for ρ. Be sure to change numbers into meters.
Q: The light fitting I bought has 1x Red Wire (A) 1x Green Wire (E) and 1x Blue Wire (N)...
The green wire is just a ground wire, black is usually the hot wire, that would leave the blue wire as the neutral wire. The white wire in house wiring is the neutral. The two red and one black from your wall is not standard in the USA, but it may be 220 volts. What kind of light fixture are you replacing, is it on a ceiling fan?
Q: I need the wiring diagram for the factory radio of a 2008 ford explorer. i need to know which wires are for the back speakers so i can connect my Hi-Lo converter to it!? thanks
2008 Ford Explorer Car Stereo Installation Instructions Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Violet/Red Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

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