High Quality Hot Dipped Galvanized Wire

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:

China (Mainland)

Standard of Zinc Coating:

GB/T 15393

Model Number:

HY-RD-02

Surface Treatment:

Galvanized

Galvanized Technique:

Hot Dipped Galvanized

Type:

coil wire

Function:

Binding Wire

Wire Gauge:

0.15-6.0mm,SWG,BWG,AWG

Standard:

GB/T 343

Material:

Wire rod :1006 , 1008 , 1018 , Q195 , etc, and zinc .

Elongation:

more than 12%

Package:

Coil package or spool package

Zinc Coating:

zinc with 99.995% purity

Application:

Used in wire mesh, artware , metal hose , binding wire

Tensile Strength Range

Size (mm)	Tensile Strength (mpa)
0.15-1.60	290-550
0.65-1.60	400-550
1.61-6.00	400-1200

Q: Has anyone tried to use or experiment to use CAT5E wire on a speaker going to Home theater receiver? If none, can you suggest a good speaker wire to use on a speaker.Paradigm Monitor Series and Onkyo TX-SR606 (Speaker and Receiver): Speaker wire is a big subject that prompts some very heated debates amongst the serious enthusiast crowd. Using CAT5 as speaker cable is typically prompted by way of either one of two ideas: Saving money, or improving performance. I will see the point in saving money in comparison with say hi-Fi speaker cables at $5/ft, however there are flawlessly good OFC copper cables of decent gauge such as seventy nine strand that clearly work out simply as low priced. The opposite drawback with fee saving is that not all CAT5e is created equal. Plenty of the finances stuff from China is copper clad aluminium as an alternative than pure copper. You would not ever choose to run your speakers with aluminium cable, so why take the threat if making use of CAT5e? Efficiency is some thing exclusive. That's very subjective. The reasoning why CAT5e is based on the excessive frequency efficiency of the cable. However in hi-fi world we need current delivery greater than excessive frequency extension. My own view is that CAT5e sounds distinctive adequate to - purchase not necessarily better than - normal OFC 79 strand for many listeners to listen to the trade fairly without problems. Treble and to a lesser measure the bass gets accentuated at the rate of midrange. It's a bit like hitting the Loudness button. The sound has a bit of extra presence at the expense of naturalness. Individually I believe the advantages are doubtful and now not worth the effort. Get a tight gauge OFC that's satisfactory and bendy alternatively than some plaited network cable.

Q: I have a 1990 chevy c1500 2wheel drive. I bought it not running. I have found the problem and it the tbi injectors are not hooked up. The 4 wires on the 2 injectors are red and the 4 wires going to the tbi are red,blue,green,white. what wires go were? Thanx for all your help.: The red and white wires are the power to each injector and are actually hooked to each other in the harness. These 2 wires should be hot when you turn the key on. The green and blue wires are the grounds that lead back to the ecm. The red and blue wires go to the passenger side injector (red is far left as you face the vehicle). The white and green go to drivers side (white on left as you face it)

Q: How to connect a 5 wire Harley LED tail light: The 5 wires to hook up the tail light and directionals. The tail light should take 3 wires. There should be a common ground which is the black / white wire. The white/ black wire and the brown wire are for the tail light(BR) and brake light (W/B). Easieset way is to take a test light to each of the wires. turn the ignition on, connect the test light to the wires one at a time. There should only be one wire that lights (tail light) then press the brake, there are two of those that should come on. Your original had two white/black wires because there were two bulbs in the original tail light. I would just use one white/black and cap the other one. Hook two to the tail light (W/B, Br) plus the black / white wire to ground of your new light. Then turn on one directional and there should be one that blinks with the test light and then the same for the other directional. wire one each to left and right plus to the black/white wire if each directional requires the ground.

Q: two straight and parallel wires are separated by 6 cm. there is a 2 A current flowing in the first wire. if the magnetic field strength is found to be zero between the two wires at a distance of 2.2 cm from the first wire, what is the magnitude and direction of the current in the second wire?: If the magnetic field at 2.2cm is zero it means that at that distance the fields produced by the two wires cancel out. At 2.2cm from the first wire the field strength is B= uI/ 2pi r ... . where u is the permitivity of free space, 4.0 x 10^-7 N/A^2 B= (4.0 x 10^-7 N/A^2)( 2 A)/ 2(3.14)(0.022m) B=( 8 x10^-7)/(0.138) B= 5.79 x 10^-6 Tesla The magnitude of the magnetic field from the other wire must be equal in magnitude at 3.8cm away (6- 2.2) and opposite in direction. Using the right hand rule (thumb points in direction of current and fingers curl around the wire to show the direction of the magnetic field) you can see that for the magnetic fields to be in opposite direction between the two wires the current must be flowing in the same direction as the first wire. Using the formula for magnetic field strength you can then determine the current needed. 5.79 x10^-6 T= (4.0 x 10^-7) I/ 2 (3.14)(0.038m) THen solve for I I= (5.79 x 10^-6 T)(2)(3.14)(0.038m)/ 4.0 x 10^-7) I= 3.45 A Therefore there is a current of 3.45A in the wire and it is flowing in the same direction as the first.

Q: I have two black wires running to a light switch that I need to extend about a foot. I cannot identify the hot wire because both wires are black and I have no white wire. Can I cap off both wires and then test each with a voltmeter? If the circuit is not complete, will the hot wire still be live?: Both wires in a switch are in the hot leg. There is no neutral. One is the hot feed, the other goes to the hot wire of the device. If you have a neutral or a ground in the box, you can test for hot with a meter. Touch one probe to one black wire, the other to neutral or ground. If you get ~120V, that;s your hot. Otherwise, the other wire is. If all else fails, you can use a pen tester, but the meter is much more accurate. Hope this helps.

Q: I plugged in my new Pioneer DEH-P6500it worked for a little bit until i moved it around a littlethe speakers started to go out but the subs still sounded finei messed around with it and found the wire responsible for it allits a red wireit says AAC or somethingif i messed with the copper twist the speakers would come in and outi stripped the wire a little and put it back together but now the head unit wont even turn onand im also left with like 2 inches of red wireis my only option to get a new pioneer wire harness?what is the problem?the red wire i think supplies the power to the whole head unit because when its not connected, the whole thing turns onbut only the speakers go on and off when i messed with itbut it wont turn on anymore: The red wire is the ignition wire. There are two wires that supply power to your head unit. One is the yellow wire which is a constant source of power. This keeps all your settings on the radio and the clock. The red wire is used to switch on your head unit. When you turn on your car the wire gets power and turns your head unit on. First, like said before, make sure the wire is getting power by checking fuses. There should be one in the head unit and one in your car's fuse panel. If that is not it then you will want to see if the wire is split somewhere. An easy way to check if the wire is getting power is if you have a DMM (digital multimeter). Then just check if there is voltage in the wire. Your car must be on to check this though. Good Luck!!! Edit: DMMs are cheap, you can get one for around $15. They have even cheaper ones if you get it at Harbor Freight.

Q: What type of wire do i need to install a normal inside wall outlet? Do i have to use solid copper wire?: Buy AWG # 14X2 cable inside includes one more bare copper wire for grounding. Solid single conductor is the common product.

Q: If you put clay over wire and bake it would the wire melt and ruin the sculpture?Details on wire:I'm not sure what kind of wire it is but it says Bright Floral Wire..Wire is silverDetails on Clay:Again, im not sure what clay...its from polyform products and it says Premo Sculpey so im guessing Polymer? :#92;Clay is Black.Bakes for 275F (130C)30 minutes per/par/por1/4 in (6mm): No the wire won't melt - besides fuse wire or solder, the lowest common melting point wire is aluminum and it melts at over 1200F Floral wire is usually steel and melts at more like 3000F, but even if it were copper, that melts at about 1900F The real problem with using wire in polymer sculptures is that when the clay shrinks in baking it may pull apart along the wire or that you may make parts of your sculpture thin (like legs or arms) and part thick (like body or head) and thick clay tends to crack - so these parts need to be hollow, which is why people talk about crumpling heavy duty aluminum foil as a core, so the clay is more uniform in thickness all over. Don't forget to have an oven thermometer for accurate temperature checking - don't trust the knob setting on the oven.

Q: i am going to be installing a flood light outside, i am running the wire on the outside of the house. i have down some small electrical work light outlets and switches but not sure on running wire. i was looking at lowes at outdoor wire and there are different size gauges. just wondering what size or gauge is best to use for an outdoor flood light?: you will want to run the wiring in pvc conduit or regular conduit if the wiring is going to be exposed. it all your going to run is the outdoor light you could use 14awg wire.

Q: what is the best speaker wire for some subwoofers that are rated between 500rms watts to 750rms watts: well loxotox is right if you are asking about power wire but for SPEAKER wire i would get no less than 12 guage speaker wire and in that case the bigger the better

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