High quality glazed porcelain tiles

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ADVANTAGE
1)Professional Manufacturer
2) Competitive price,high quality and fast delivery time
3) More than 10 years export experience.
4) Well-deserved reputation.
SPECIFICATION
• 1. various sizes are available;
• 2. More than 100 design and colors;
• 3. Both waterproof and non waterproof available;
• 4. Strict control on color tolerance;
• 5. Perfect effect on flatness and glazed surface;
• 6. Ink-Jet technology application on the tiles
• 7. Stable production and supplying;
• 8. Competitive price and payment term
• 9. Stable production and supplying;
• 10. Suitable for economic end using;

Q:Foreign ceramic tile brand: Italian Brand: Spider, Bee, Douglas Tile, Van Szes Tile, FLOORGRES Tile, Amy Tile, KEOPE Tile, Bardelli (Famous for Films) Spanish Brand: TAU Tile, AB Tile, Yasuoli Tile, AZULEV, MagicoGres UAE Brand: Raja (RAK) Hungarian Brand: Herend But those so-called purely imported ceramic tiles are purely deceptive, most of them are set up in China's production base, with China's raw materials, but the production process is different, strong packaging, good-looking Bale. Think with a stupid, a tiles much more ah, sea, then the risk, high cost, and handling is extremely difficult

Q:I had new stone tile laid in my bathroom. 18 x 18 pieces, diagonally laid. One piece by the edge must have been stepped on by one of the tile layers as they were leaving and it got pushed down, so it‘s not level with the rest of the tiles by a small fraction. Its not noticeable if you walk on it with shoes, but if you walk on it barefoot or if you get down and feel it with your hands, there is clearly a noticeable difference. The flooring company refuses to come back and fix it claiming I did it. The piece is on the edge butting up against carpet from the bedroom. Is there any way I can make this tile level myself to avoid the hassle of trying to sue or file complaints against the flooring company? Maybe cut out that one piece without damaging and just put a new layer of the cement underneath it? I don‘t know. I‘ve never done tiling before.: I assume it's ceramic tiles, not vinyl? It's probably the wood subfloor or wood tile underlayment, you can use some wood screws underneath the floor to tighten the plywood to the floor joists. Of course, that might mean opening up the ceiling below, but that's probably easier to patch than the tile floor. Or, you remove some of the tile grout, and screw into the joist from above, then re-grout. That could be tricky- you need to know exactly where the floor joists are.

Q:I need some tiles to replace on my roof. They type of tile, I‘m told is Santa Rosa tile and is made from a reddish orange color clay, does anyone know where to get this type of tile in central California?: Start by calling all of the roofing contractors in your local phone book and asking for them to come over and give you a free bid to match the existing tile ,if the roofing contractors know that they are competing for the job or sell of tile they are more likly to keep the price fair..

Q:Do you have to rough up the old flooring ?: You certainly do need to rough it up, you may also need to seal or prime it - I have seen new tiling 'creeping' over old, when the glue hasn't really been suitable. The best thing is to get recommendations from the tile manufacturer for the right adhesive for this situation (probably a solvent based one).

Q:I will be doing my first tile job soon. I will be removing/replacing the tile on my kitchen countertop. I have got most everything figured out with the exception of removing the existing tile on the backsplash. I believe the tile was placed directly over sheet rock (tract home). Any suggestions on how to remove the tile without too much damage to the sheetrock. If I have to do sheetrock replacement I don‘t think I could ever duplicate the texture now applied to the surronding sheet rock Thanks for any tips.: Carefully remove any molding/cut any caulk between the tile and sheet rock using a razor blade knife. Remove the tile from the counter top then start working (prying) from the back splash tile bottoms using a wonder bar - oftentimes they'll pretty much pop right off. If you pry from the tile sides against the sheet rock, use a wood block under the pry bar to avoiding making indentations in/breaking thru the rock. Best to not get in a hurry. Never hurts to have a hammer and safety glasses near just in case. Have you considered extending the new back splash up to the cabinets above? Just guessing at the layout...

Q:Decoration living room, bedroom, kitchen, bathroom with what kind of tiles good?: Now the decoration is generally only two kinds of specifications of the kitchen and bathroom with 600 * 600 on the cut and paste the living room with 800 * 800 As for what brand is based on your economic capacity to determine the price from 30 yuan to 260 yuan per brick

Q:currently have vinyl tile glued to concrete on grade. Want to install bamboo floor / engineered wood. Can we go on top of existing vinyl?: Possibly. The vinyl tile must be well installed (not coming loose or bubbling or open seams, etc.). If the vinyl tile is a no wax or smooth surface, it may still need to be prepped with a palm sander and 80 grit just enough to give it some tooth. And finally, make certain to contact both manufacturers' reps or technical services to make certain that the new glue is compatible with both the vinyl and the bamboo... and to make certain that this endeavor will not void your warranty. Good luck.

Q:Can u burn tiles?: Ceramic tiles? Not in the least. Vinyl tiles will melt at a lower temperature but will burn some at higher temps.. Ceiling tiles are all different, they are flame retardant some but again will burn at high temps. GL

Q:We had to remove some tile and break out the wall behind our shower/bath wall in order to put in a new part for new fixtures. So, now we need to repair that portion of the wall (about 3‘x2‘) and re-tile it. Do we need to use greenboard (it looks like either that or just drywall was used originally) or cement board? Also, how do we join the new portion of backing to the old portion? When tiles are removed, they damage the old backing -- so I can‘t take off an extra row of tiles and then have that backer exposed in order to tape and put mortar over. Hubby says we can cut the backer to fit the opening, and then just go ahead and tile, and that the grout will effectively seam and waterproof those joints where the new backing meets the old tiled backing. Any suggestions?: I am just real curious how you are going to hold the new backing in place. If you have that figured out I would suggest cement board. Sheet rock won't last and green board is little better. Use a clear sealent from the old to the new. (If you leave a little space - 1/8 inch or so, you can squeeze the sealent in.) Make sure non of the sealent is on the surface of either backer. Let it set for 48 hours. Tile and grout. My mother's folks all did tile work for a living. They would tell you to take the tile down for the entire wall and start over. In the long run, that is probably the best thing to do. Steven's answer was posted while I was writing. His recommendation and suggestions make great sense.

Q:I have a tile floor in a basement bathroom. These are small 2 inch tiles and I would like larger 8 by 8 inch tiles on the floor. Do I need to remove the old tile or can the new tile be laid right over the old tile? The subloor is concrete slab.: I work for a tile and stone setting materials manufacturer, and one application we love to see if tile over tile, especially over concrete slab. Here's what you need to do: - First, inspect the original tile and grout joints for cracking, loose tiles, oil/grease spots and efflorescence (salts from original grout or thinset that have migrated to the surface at the grout joint). Each sympton can be repaired, if necessary, but will involve some work. - When the surface is prepped and ready, use a polymer-modified thinset. This is a must; the best guarantee of preventing future bonding issues. This thinset is easily identified by its price-- it's most expensive. But it saves you labor and provides peace of mind. - Grout: the vast majority of tile complaints center on the grout application. The best solution is to use an epoxy grout, available at your local Lowes (not in Home Depot). Epoxy grouts are 100% solids, have better flexibility (preventing future cracking), are guaranteed color-consistent and are nearly stain-proof. - Use a 100% silicone caulk for all expansion and control joints (if applicable). Each of the products I've listed are available with a Microban anti-microbial agent, which prevents mold... a must-have if this is a basement, kitchen or bath application. The big three setting-materials manufacturers (I work for one of them) are: - Laticrete - Mapei - Custom Visit these companies' websites for on-line Technical Service and technical data sheets. Our company provides a 100% residential systems warranty when using the specified products. Good luck!

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