• Factory directly high quality hot selling glazed porcelain tiles System 1
Factory directly high quality hot selling glazed porcelain tiles

Factory directly high quality hot selling glazed porcelain tiles

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1324.8
Supply Capability:
132480 pc/month

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ADVANTAGE
1)Professional  Manufacturer
2) Competitive price,high quality and fast delivery time
3) More than 10 years export experience.
4) Well-deserved reputation.
SPECIFICATION
• 1. various sizes are available;
• 2. More than 100 design and colors;
• 3. Both waterproof and non waterproof available;
• 4. Strict control on color tolerance;
• 5. Perfect effect on flatness and glazed surface;
• 6. Ink-Jet technology application on the tiles
• 7. Stable production and supplying;
• 8. Competitive price and payment term
• 9. Stable production and supplying;
• 10. Suitable for economic end using;

Q: I am doing a research project at school on erosion, and one of the members on my research team said something about underground tiles that run water into the nearest body of water. We have been trying to locate a source, or ANY piece of information on this subject, but have failed. Is there anyone who can help us?
These aren't erosion tiles, they are drainage tiles. Do a web search on tile drainage and you'll find out all you need to know about the subject. BTW, tiles and tile lines are just underground pipes with holes in them, used to lower shallow water tables. It wasn't clear to me that you understood this, so sorry if I'm pointing out the obvious.
Q: What is the tile diagonal
Wall and floor tiles between the two corners of the straight line, but also to evaluate the quality of one of the standards of wall and floor tiles.
Q: There is a white ceramic tile floor with white grout in my bathroom. Some of the mastic (I think it was a combination mastic and grout, that could be used either way) is on top of the tile and dried on. Is there any way I can get it off there other than trying to chip at it and possibly ruin the tile?
You need to clean off all the mastic from the wall and the soap dish and use thinset. The mastic will not dry in the shower. After you get it back on avoid getting it wet for a couple days.
Q: Once I removed the old tiles is there anything else I should do before I lay the new ones?
If you're removing ceramic tiles, you want to make sure that the new ones will bond to the cement subfloor. To check this, after the tiles are removed, acid wash the concrete floor with one part of Muriatic Acid 15 parts of water....BE careful. The floor should sizzle a little. If it doesn't, you will want to remove any adhesive that is still on the floor, and that's not easy! OR, go to a tile store in your area, or Home Depot, and tell them you need an adhesive that will bond to mastic that is still on your cement floor. If you're removing vinyl tile, the existing mastic shouldn't be a problem, but be sure to remove and clean any debris that might get sandwiched between the old and the new mastic.
Q: Hello Everyone, I have been given option by my builder for option amongst vitrified, Indian and Italian tiles? Should it be separate for living/bed/room and kitchen. Only serious replies please.Thanks
I ve worked with tiles for over 20 years and I find no difference in tiles from different areas such a Italian , Indian .USA, Brazil, China etc. They all have excellent and garbage tiles. The vitrified tiles is a type of tile as is ceramic and porcelains. Usually a bit harder bodied and the the sizing is better on vitrified tiles. Get what coloring and style fits your needs. You have any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: I need step by step instructions on how to install ceramic tile in a bathroom on a concrete slab.
first of all measure ur bathroom and calculate how many square meters u need. Then decide on your tile layout (where u want the tiles to start and end.) normally you want to have full tiles in visible areas and have the cut tiles in less visible areas (behind doors, under basin cabinet, behind toilet) You should check ur levels to make sure the water runs to the floor drain, and if there is no floor drain make sure it runs to one area that is accesible to dry. Make sure it doesnt run towards the door and that you dont get multiple puddles. If the levels are not already done you will need to apply a screed of concrete (no coarse aggregate) and trowl it to the desired levels. Once that is set you decide on what type of binding agent (glue or mortar) that best suites your needs. pick a starting point (a corner in which u would use a whole tile) and as you go keep checking ur levels to maintain the correct slope for the water. You will probably need a tile cutting tool for area where you cant use a whole tile. That is just a basic idea of what ull need to do.
Q: We have a two sink bathroom set up would like to replace the counter-top with a homemade tile counter-top - we are pretty handy but have not dealt with tile before - and before I ask my dad for help I thought why not check out yahoo answers. Thanks! :)
This isn't a very difficult task to undertake. There are several factors to consider when building this counter top: size of tile compared to counter top size (to figure out where the cuts will be other than the back, of course), top mount sink or undermount sink (how to finish the sink opening) and remember that a tile countertop will raise the sink and therefore you may need an extension for your pop-up/p-trap, will there be a backsplash? will that backsplash interfere with any outlets?, does the tile come with matching end caps or will you be using wood to cap the ends? Picking out the proper material and knowing how to do the job start to finish will make things soooo much easier. I would definitely use a 3/4 exterior grade plywood with cement board and cement board screws. Some tiles already come pre-spaced (4 1/4 x 4 1/4 tiles). Shoot me an email with some piictures of the project and I will try to help you and see where you possibly may run into some problems (if any). In the meantime, I suggest looking in HD or Lowes for those step-by-step books.
Q: i want to use broken tiles for flooring in the balcony. what is the procedure?? and how do i start??please suggest.
I suggest that you first prep and fill your concrete and let dry. Next you should lay out some tile pieces on an area near your starting point fitting the pieces together like a jigsaw puzzle. Next spread some tile mastic over an area equal to the size of the area where you have laid out tile pieces that fit together. Next, quickly set the tiles in the mastic in the same pattern that you had them laid off to the side leaving at least about 1/8th gaps between the tile pieces. When you are finished, scrape off any mastic that does not have tile set in it. Repeat this process until you completely cover your floor. Allow to dry for a day and then fill the cracks with grout. Allow the grout to dry for a day and then do an acid wash to remove the grout residue.
Q: The bathroom tile in my recently purchased house isn‘t finished. The previous owner used floor tile to surround the tub; he/she left many pieces of tile unfinished, but luckily left us a stack of the tiles so we could finish it off. However, we don‘t have an unlimited supply of these tiles, so we‘d like to get it right with as few tries as possible!I‘m wondering: -I need to fit the tub faucet and knobs within two 12 square tiles. What‘s the best way to measure the placement of the fixtures? Is it possible to make some sort of template that I could transfer to the tiles? -Can I make the cuts for the fixtures using a hacksaw-type tile saw blade, or should I buy a tile drill bit? (I realize it rather depends on where the fixtures fall within the tile-- but if I don‘t need to buy both, I won‘t waste my money. )Thanks!
By making some tiles out of cardboard, then placing them in their proper position, will show you where to use a ceramic hole-saw on the real tile to make good holes. I have also seen tile setters cut the tile in two places, intersecting at the centre of the hole. Then use a plier-like nibbling tool to remove the necessary material [ please where safety glasses for this ], when finished the cut lines are barely noticeable, especially if it is done in least conspicuous place. Another option is if you were to go to a professional tile setter, with your clearly marked tiles, I'm fairly certain he/she would make your holes, for a fee.
Q: I am currently removing old cork tiles from the floor of my house. They are stuck down to the cement and as I‘m chiselling them up I‘m being left with a lot of glue residue with fragments of the cork too. Any tips on easy removal of the old tiles, but more importantly removing the glue? We are replacing them with new ceramic floor tiles. I was thinking maybe a heat gun and a scraper to clean it up but Dad has suggested a grinder! Any experiences with fast and easy removal of residue? I‘ve still got a room of cork to remove so if there‘s a better way than hammer and chisel I‘d love to hear about it!
Just start scrapping it all off and patch the drywall after with drywall compound....then sand and paint....easy job

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