High Quality AR Glass Fiber Chopped Strand- Zirconia 16.5%

High Quality AR Glass Fiber Chopped Strand- Zirconia 16.5% System 1

High Quality AR Glass Fiber Chopped Strand- Zirconia 16.5% System 2

High Quality AR Glass Fiber Chopped Strand- Zirconia 16.5%

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Loading Port:: Shanghai Port

Payment Terms:: TT or L/C

Min Order Qty:: 1000Kgs m.t.

Supply Capability:: 100000 Tons Per Year m.t./month

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Introduction of AR Glass Fiber Chopped Strand- Zirconia 16.5%:
AR glassfiber is one kind of concrete fiber used for spary up or mechanical continuous formed GRC, such as formwork roof board, decoration panel, garden feature. It has widely used in tunnel, mine shaft, protect slop, spray-up roving for reinforcement surface and tip of wall.

Technical Data of AR Glass Fiber Chopped Strand- Zirconia 16.5%:

PRODUCT NAME	AR- FIBERGLASS CHOPPED STRAND
TEST CRITERION	JC/T572-2002
TEST ITEM	METERAGE UNIT	STANDARD	RESULT	CONCLUSION
ZRO2CONTENT	%	≥16.5	16.7	MEASURE UP
MOISTURE CONTENT	%	≤0.2	0.1	MEASURE UP
TENSILEBREAKING STRENGTH	N/TEX	≥0.25	0.3	MEASURE UP
CHOPPED LENGTH	MM	12±1	12	MEASURE UP
LINEAR DENSITY	TEX	98±8	99	MEASURE UP
COMBUSTIBLE MATTER CONTENT	%	0.8-2.0	1.48	MEASURE UP
CONCLUSION	IN CONPLIANCE WITH JC/T572-2002

Crack Test:

AR Glass Fiber Chopped Strand

Q: im trying to add a receptacle to my kitchen island. i want to run the wiring under the cement. what other step i need to do like what do i need to use to cut that cement how can i pull that cement i cut up please help me thanks: Brad is correct about PT reinforced cement. But, since you do not already have a receptacle serving the island (required in newer homes), I am going to guess that the home is older and less likely to have this issue. Although you should try to find out for sure, if possible. PT reinforcing is fairly common in apartment/condo buildings, but is rare for a single family residence in my area (WA State). May be different where you are though. When you install this, use conduit for this. Do not use direct buried wire. First, it cannot be in poured cement without protection at the entry and exit points (must be poured under the cement and be protected). Second, if there were any failures (or if you needed to add circuits) later, you will not be happy tearing up the floor again. Insist on at least a 3/4 conduit (1 inch might be better yet). This would allow for an additional circuit or two later. If you are going to rip into the cement floor, do it right the first time.

Q: The fence is typical 47 inch wire field fencing. I am putting it on a one acre lot with the post being placed every 15 feet. I am using landscaping post as they are cheaper then regular post and i have worked with them before on my stockade fencing with no problem. I am installing two 10 foot farm gates which are 1 and 3/4 inch tubular steel. I will be using 4x4 pressure treated post on the 4 corners and the post holding the gates.I need to know how much concrete i would need for the 60 land scaping post and the 6 4x4 post. I am figuring one 60 pound bag of cement (the kind you get for about $2.50 a bag) for every two landscaping post and one full bag for each of the 4x4 post giving me a total of 36 bags. I am presently not planning on adding any stones to the mix, just water.The post will be 2 feet in the ground and 6 feet above. Barb wire across the top.Does this sound right or am way off on how many post will do one bag? The total feet of fencing is 900 feet.: Cement is good, but we like to use crushed stone on all our fences that we install (if it is wood). Reason being, the crushed stone allows the water to drain away from the wood and you get less rot over the course of time than you would with cement. Also, once you set the post in cement, it is a royal pain to remove/adjust. Not to mention the ease of having buckets of crushed stone instead of having to mix cement and all the hastle which goes along with that. just a thought

Q: how many cubic feet does 1 bag of cement make?? its a 80 lb bag...In your thoughts or in your experience.....thanks!!: It should say on the bag. something like 1/2 a cubic foot? Can't remember for sure.

Q: Home built in the late 1800's. The old house requires repainting every couple of years. The paint has an alligator appearance - very thick, chippy and crackled. Am considering re-siding with fiber board siding rather than vinyl. Is it possible to install the cement siding boards over the existing wood boards or would they need to be removed? Also - I know that when installing vinyl siding, they cut off the sill boards and crown molding around windows/doors. I would prefer to preserve the architectural interest of the home as much as possible. Is the cement siding option kinder to the window and door details then vinyl siding?: my husband actually works at James Hardie where they make fiber cement siding. A friend of ours used this siding on his home that already had cedar siding. He just went right over the existing cedar with no problems. Using the trim also made by JH it looks great! He did not have the architectural details your home has but I have also seen the fiber cement siding installed on victorian homes that did, and it looked terrific. You just have to trim the boards to fit around your window casings, etc. JH also sells shake siding and the half moon(gingerbread) shaped siding that is present on lots of older homes up by the roof pitches. I would definitely go with the fiber cement siding over vinyl. You can repaint it if you want(unlike vinyl) It lasts for many many years longer (JH siding comes with 50 yr warranty) looks better, and actually helps better with wind protection (because of thickness) and it also helps with fire protection. JH siding is sold at Home Depot.

Q: ..........without having to make up more cement and putting that over it?I cemented an area on an outside wall and when I checked it a few days later, someone had drawn on it so now it has set and I can't get rid of it. I don't want to have to buy more cement so wondered if there's some way of getting rid of the picture without having to cement over it.: first, tell the police, so it wont happen again. try using water and lots of soap. Just and idea! Good luck.

Q: I think we have been already taught how this goes, butIf you mix water and cement, and you record the mass while it's still wet, then if it dries, will you also get the same mass? if not, much percent do you think will be lost?: The problems with cement is that it's a very Thirsty molecule. Could be all the water remains in the concrete. Concrete doesn't harden because it loses it's water - it hardens because of a chemical change (it's hot). Portland cement can harden under water - and the Romans understood this. Some of their bridges are still in use. Then the idea was lost until the end of the 18th century, I think.

Q: the house is from 1959. Before I bought it the owners re-landscaped without any consideration for water flow thus causing the basement to have seepage through the walls. I fixed the water flow issue (1.5 years dry) but now I have painted cement walls that have paint pushed out/peeling with a few visible cracks and wonderful mineral deposition. I really don't want to spend the time with the metal wire brush to strip the paint off so I would like to just use hydraulic cement over the whole wall and then use a water sealing paint over the top. Is this a good idea? other suggestions?: That sounds more time consuming than just scraping off the peeling paint..... Here's 1 problem w/your approach, latex paint dries so fast that it actually creates a vacuum effect in doing so, which means that as it dries it'll pull off the surface anything that's not firmly attached, which is why prep work's so important to longevity. You won't immediately notice this happening, but w/the passage of time you'll be back to the peeling wall in spades. I've never heard of skim-coating w/hydraulic cement, but I've done plenty of patching plaster walls w/plaster of paris, what immediately comes to mind are the inherent problems w/working in a medium that sets up so quickly, I can't imagine how you'd get a whole wall covered looking even satisfactory (but I'm pretty picky, I figure when people are paying me I'm obliged to do a better job than they could've) w/out going insane in the process. I learned the trick to plaster, but I don't know the chemistry of hydraulic cement well enough to find a retardant for it. Anyways, I know prep-work sucks, but often it's just easiest to do it get it over with (start w/a stiff putty knife, by the way) rather than inventing a new process having to deal w/a long string of learning curves as you go. The first question that came to mind w/your question is have you ever skim-coated anything before so that you'd have even a vague idea of what you're getting yourself into potentially, but if you must create, than by all means go forth!

Q: I have a question about subfloor and tiling.. our kitchen and dining room are connected, and our dining room has hardwood floor and the kitchen just has a lineolm currently.. we are remodeling our kitchen and tiling.. we know the correct thing to do is lay down a cement backer board, our question is, do we take up the current subfloor? im afraid if we dont that once we put the cement board down and then the tile down, THEN the kitchen floor will be higher than the dining room.. so, again, taking the current subfloor off, and just seeing the original floor boards that run diagonally (i know it does that from looking from the basement up).. and then lay the cement board on there, and then the tile, can that be done?? THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!: You need the subfloor for strength, you cannot pull it up. They do have a friendly moulding that also dresses up the area from the kitchen to the dining room, that stops you from tripping.

Q: i was just wondering, i also wasn't quite sure how to figure out how many pounds of force would be required.: I don't know , but it is not as hard as it looks. You need stable mounts and very good technique. The stones I use are patio pavers, 2x8x16. Stack two to get your specific dimension. Concrete is quite brittle, so a good, sharp strike will crack it. Because wood flexes, I find it easier to break two patio stones, than five boards.

Q: I have an older cement/plaster pool. It holds water just fine. But there are several leaking cracks at bottom seams; some small areas where cement has worn away; a single ten foot line where cement has cracked slightly bulged in an upper sidewall. The areas are visible (dark) when pool is filled so I have drained want to paint. First, can I successfully repair with hydraulic cement? And, how long to quot;curequot; before painting?: You do not have to have hydraulic cement. Regular Portland cement mixed up as a plaster will work fine. Scrape off any paint so it will adhere better. Hydraulic is use where curing under water is needed. Since your will be dry, it is not needed. There is a product called surwall, spelling may be off, that is good for this. It has fiberglass fibers in it for strength.

Confiber, a well-known enterprise specializes in the manufacturer of Alkaline-resistant glass fiber. Our business scope mainly includes: Alkali-resistant spray Roving, Alkali-resistant chopped strand, Alkali-resistant glass fiber scrim, etc. Our company takes "quality first, credit supreme, to be No.1" as quality principle and welcome to cooperate with parnters all over the world.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location	Shanxi, China
Year Established	1982
Annual Output Value	Above US$ 30 Million
Main Markets	20.00% North America 20.00% South America 10.00% Eastern Europe 10.00% Southeast Asia 10.00% Northern Europe 10.00% South Asia 10.00% Western Europe 5.00% Africa 5.00% Mid East
Company Certifications	ISO9001:2000

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port	Shanghai Port, China
Export Percentage	41-50%
No.of Employees in Trade Department	20-30 People
Language Spoken:	English; Chinese;
b) Factory Information
Factory Size:	Above 50,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines	Above 10
Contract Manufacturing	Design Service Offered; Buyer Label Offered
Product Price Range	High; Average