• High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor System 1
  • High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor System 2
  • High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor System 3
  • High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor System 4
  • High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor System 5
  • High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor System 6
High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:

Zhejiang, China (Mainland)

Brand Name:

cnbm

Model Number:

VV YJV VV22 YJV22 VV32 YJV32 VV62 YJV62 VV72 YJV72 YJLW02 YJLW03 KVV

Insulation Material:

PVC or XLPE

Type:

Low,Medium and High Voltage

Application:

s electric power distribution networks or industrial installations

Conductor Material:

Copper or Aluminium

Jacket:

PVC or PE

Filler:

Non-hygroscopic Polypropylene(PP)

Binder Tape:

Non-woven fabric

Metallic Armour 1:

Galvanized Stainless Steel Tape Armour(STA)

Metallic Armour 2:

Galvanized Stainless Steel Wire Armour(SWA)

Metallic Armour 3:

Non-magnetic Steel Tape Armour(only for single core)

Metallic Armour 4:

Aluminium Wire



Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:wooden drum; iron-wooden drum or steel drum
Delivery Detail:Depending on the quantity

Specifications

2015 new product electric power cable 
1 Conductor:Copper or Aluminium 
2 Insulation:PVC or XLPE 
3 Voltage:Low/Medium/High Vol

2015 new product electric power  cable  

Technical Parameters of our Power Cable 

1). Standard: IEC60502; GB/T12706;IEC 60840;IEC62067;GB/T 11017;GB/Z 18890

2). Detailed description or construction:

    * Conductor: compacted or uncompacted copper or aluminium

    * Insulation: Cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE) or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

    * Filler: Polypropylene filament with lapped binding tape

    * Binder: Binding tape

    * Inner sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

    * Armour: Galvanized steel wire armored (SWA) or steel tape armored (STA)

    *Sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

3). The rated voltages U0/U(Um) of the cables considered in this standard are as follows:

    U0/U(Um) =0.6/1(1.2)-3.6/6(7.2)-6/10(12)-6.35/11(12)-8.7/15(17.5)-12/20(24)-12.7/22(24)-18/30(36)-19/33(36)-26/35(40.5)KV

4). Voltage:

     0.6/1kV, 1.8/3kV, 3.6/6kV, 6/10kV,6.35/11kV, 8.7/15kV, 12/20kV,12.7/22kV, 18/30kV,19/33kV,26/35kV

    In the voltage designation of cables U0/U(Um):

        * U0 is the rated power frequency voltage between conductor and earth or metallic screen for which the cable is designed;

        * U is the rated power frequency voltage between conductors for which the cable is designed;

        * Um is the maximum value of the "highest system voltage" for which the equipment maybe used.

5). Application:

     For laying indoors, in tunnel or cable trench with large difference of level able to bear external mechanical forces.

6). Marking: According to the customers' requirements

High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

High quality AAC cable ALL Aluminum Conductor

FAQ

·         Can we make an OEM order?

o    We can offer or supply goods as customers' requirements.

·         How can I get some samples? Free or not?

o    We can send some normal samples, absolutely free.

·         How does your factory do regarding quality control?

o    "Quality is priority." We always attach great importance to quality controlling from the very beginning to the very end. Our factory has gained ISO9001 , SGS authentication, CE for Europe, etc.


Q: Hi,I have a set of Sony speakers that are a few years old. They have no power cable (nowhere to plug a cable in either) and the aux cable has no jacks. It is just two split wires. How can I connect them to my TV?Thanks,Aaron
Your unpowered (standard) speakers do not Plug in to a TV. They Plug in to an amplifier/receiver like all other standard speakers in this world do. Your speaker wires are not AUX cables, they are eh, speaker wires. speakers left over from all in one movie disc player/radios wont match up with normal recievers. You throw them away with the defunct disk player (HTiB). I do not believe for a second you do not know what a speaker is, or how normal speakers connect. This technology has been around for a century.
Q: Hi, my old laptop has broken: when i try to put the power cable into the socket on the laptop, it only goes in on a certain angle and never stays there even when taped, so its impossible to get the laptop on for more than a few seconds. I've tried different power cables too, and nothing seems to work, so it must be the actual laptop problem... how can I get the laptop to stay on to retrieve some photos that I have got on there? Thanks
You okorder /
Q: I just got a cheap intel i3 custom pc build on OKorder. But, i have no idea on how to set up all those PSU cables and the fans and everything else (seller thought it was a great idea to unplug every cable inside, which led to me turning on the pc assuming everything was good to go which led to the cpu overheating after turning it on) But anyway, i need to know how to setup the psu cables. My PC looks like a mess with all those cables jumbled up together. There are 4 distinct think cables sticking out from the PSU and all the other cables come from the case or the fans. Some of the cables come with numbers (1, 2, 3) and some are already plugged into the mobo, so i don't want to touch those. How to do this?
CD/DVD drives and hard drive all use the same power connectors (multicolored), so plug them in whichever way you want. There is no specific order. Don't remove any ribbon cables, and if you wish to have a floppy drive, the power cable is slightly smaller than normal ones. Commonly, fans can be plugged in to any port on the motherboard as long as they reach without straining the cable. They can only be inserted one way and are likely three-prong so it should be easy. The numbers on your cords don't matter.
Q: Welding cable (230v) doesn't, so why would (14v) car audio cables
Voltage is not your main enemy when dealing with electricity. It's current or amps that are the main concern. You can think of it like a water hose, the V is the speed of the water, the A is the amount. Take Ohm's law for example. Say we have an amp that's producing 1000W With a 230V power system we have 4.3A, with a 14V power system we have 71A. That's a lot of amperage. Car power cables have a thick jacket to prevent shorts, shorts are bad. If you had a large cable going from one end of your car to the other, without a fuse. (lot's of people don't fuse correctly) If that cable comes in contact with the metal of the car it's going to short and that whole cable is going to get red hot and burn your car to the ground.
Q: I moved to another country and my computer arrived without the cord that goes from the power supply unit to the wall (aka I can?t turn it on). The PSU in question is a Corsair 750W Unit. I tried searching for independent cables but as expected no one sells them. Contacting the manufacturer is too much of a pain. I was wonder, could I find special generic cables that would work with the PSU? Not necessarily by the manufacturer. Thank you.
(link defaults to 1foot, but id recommend a 6foot cable at the minimum, as 1-3 feet can be very limiting.) If using more then 1000W of power, you will need a cable capiable of it. one above is rated at 10A, and given psu efficiency (rounding way down for very inefficient ones) you should be able to get like 900-1000W+ from it w/o any worry. (that doesnt mean using a 1000W psu.. im talking about pulling 1000W+ from the wall, and unless you have like 3 gtx titans running at 100% .)
Q: I don't want to run it under the car, but I can't find a place to run it through the firewall... Do I need to drill a hole?
I think you need to look at what ever is going through the fire wall first. often you will find things like speedo cables and other cables that go through it using a grommet, if they is a 8mm plus one used you could puch your power cable through the same grommet, this will save the drilling but if you do have to drill use a grommet to seal the hole, it costs only cents.
Q: at the end of power cable are 2 wires
I don't know what you mean by 302cm power cable. When it has 2 wires, one if usually the hot (power) and one is the ground (earth.) I don't know much else that'll help you, sorry.
Q: I have a ZXi8008 and there's a cable that goes out to the head unit to turn on the amplifier, which is different than the power cable. But in this car, i have not installed a new head unit. Where do I hook up this cable otherwise? It needs a constant power supply to be on.
i would hook it up to the power cable from ur stero that whay the amp will only come on when the radio comes on. that way u wont drain ur battery, thats if ur talking about the remote cable
Q: I currently have a 250 watt 2 channel power cord and a 500 watt alpine amp with 2 12 inch mtx terminator subs.i am continuously blowing blade fuses and i ended up buying a 680 watt power cable. Will this blow out my amp or do any damage or will it be all good and give the maximum power my amp can supply? (Without exploding) just wondering thanks!
no sir it will not, infact it may completly stop the problem, i would say to much current is passing through the wire, if the amp will accept the wire (even if its a tight fit) thats what your looking for. so to answer your question using the 680 watt wiring kit is just what you need and will be perfect, you could even get the 1200 watt wiring kit if need be, (assumikng you bought the schosche kit from walmart)
Q: My amp was working this morning. On my way home, the power cable came out somehow. I put it back in and it wasn't powering on. The amp fuses were blown, I replaced them. Then I went to hook the battery terminal back and the fuse in my power cable blew instantly. I replaced it and tried again and it blew again. Also the fuses in the amp are fine now. I did the same process when I installed my amp the first time and it was fine so I don't know why it's doing this now. The amp is a Boston Acoustics 800w RMS amp and an 80a fuse. Any ideas?
Look at your previous question. I told you what it probably is. Either you have strand(s) of power wire stick out somewhere and touching something it shouldn't be touching. Or. You tapped the power wire on something during removal and cooked the amps power supply. The current flow from a shorted circuit gets very hot, very fast.

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