• High quality 35KV Insulated Overhead Cable System 1
  • High quality 35KV Insulated Overhead Cable System 2
High quality 35KV Insulated Overhead Cable

High quality 35KV Insulated Overhead Cable

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Qingdao
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Min Order Qty:
10000 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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35KV Insulated Overhead Cable

Implemented standard

1KV GB/T12527     10KV GB/T 14049     35KV GB/T14049

Introduction

The product is made up of the copper, aluminum ( aluminum alloy) conductor, inner shield, climate- resistant insulation material and outer shield. It has simple structure and is safe and reliable. It has both excellent properties of the power cable and good physical properties of the aerial cable. By using the climate-resistant insulation material, the product has the excellent properties of resistance to air aging. Compare with the bare wire, it has the good characteristics such as smaller laying distance, hither reliability. It is suitable for using in the high buildings, brush land and bad weather zone.

Characteristics

1.There are three rated voltage: 1KV, 10KV, 35KV;

2.Allowed long-term working temperature:

PE insulation-70℃,PVC insulation-70℃,Cross-linked PE-90℃;

3.When short-circuit (the longest time is not more than 5 second), the highest temperature: PE insulation 130℃,PVC insulation 160℃,Cross-linked PE 250℃;

4.The environment temperature for laying should be not lower than -20℃;

5.The working environment temperature is from -40℃ to +40℃, the relative humidity should be not more than 90% in rainy season;

6.Permitted bending radius

Cable with rated voltage 1KV and below: outer diameter of the cable D≤25mm,bending radius should be not less than 4D. The outer diameter of cable D>25mm, bending radius should be not less than 6D.

Cable with rated voltage 10KV,35KV: Single core cable: 20*(D+d)±5%  multiple core cable: 15*(D+d)±5%

In which:

D-the actual outer diameter of the cable, mm;

d-the actual outer diameter of the cable conductor, mm.


Introduction of our company


Our company is a professional China Wire and Cable Manufacturers, mainly supply Aerial bundled cable,House Electric Wire, Insulated Overhead Cable,Aluminium Conductor Steel Reinforced, PVC Control Cables,XLPE Power Cables,BV Electric Wires,Nylon Sheathed Cable,Buried Cable,High Voltage Cable,House Electric Wire,Single Core Flexible Copper Cable,Civil Wire And Cable etc. series of wire and cable products, sincerely welcome everyone to visit.


Q:Hi, I am building a greenhouse in my backyard and had a few questions as to how i should wire it. The appliances I will have in the greenhouse include.A 400 watt light.a 115 volt pump, an oscillating fanand a ventilation fanI can't remember the wattage of the two fans. But my question is will I need to run more than one wire out to my greenhouse? The wire I have says its max voltage is 600. any tips and advice would be nice.
Lights and fans don't take a lot of juice - just get some 12-2 wire with ground - you can get stuff you can bury in a trench if you want. Wire this into a 20 amp breaker in your house and run it out to your green house. Come up through the ground in a piece of conduit - and hook this to a big double box - something you can screw securely inside your green house. Make sure you get all your grounds connected nice. And put in two plugins. You can also put in a GFI plugin - and wire the other plugin to it - so that if the circuit blows, it kills the other plugin. That should do it and protect you pretty well.
Q:Generally do not exceed 50 degrees, the higher the temperature the faster the faster What are the wires, such as 16 tubes?
Is it your own phone's own data cable? If the line and the charge head to determine the problem, that is, mobile power problems, you can contact the seller to repair or replacement
Q:Hi, I am wiring my new addition. My question has to do with the wiring. I have recepticals in opposite corners of the room. Should I drill holes into each stud around the room to run the wire? Or am I better off drilling a hole into the top plate, and running the wire across the attic, drilling a hole into the opposite top plate, and down to the second receptical??Thanks for your timepb4sc
There are some relatively new codes on that. Go through the studs about in the center where you want them. After you have done that, there is a metal plate that should be nailed onto the stud where the hole is on the stud. Those are there to stop nailing where there is a possibility the nail might enter into the wiring and short out two wires.
Q:I have a '49 ford truck, w/350 v8 Chevy engine. The fan is currently hot wired straight to the battery. How do I connect it to the ignition so the fan goes off when I shut off the engine?
a few options, You could get a 'fuse tap' and clip it into an existing fuse on the load side of fuse- which is the side that the power is fused, it will not have power unless the fuse is in place-(remove fuse then use test lite to verify) Then you can connect your fan power, use a fuse for an option that is either used rarely or not being used or you can wire to the starter solenoid -there is usually a terminal that will test hot only with ignition on. or The older ignition switches have multiple terminals, where you can test and see which one goes on and off with the ignition in run position(it would be best to be sure it does not power up during 'start 'up so you don't lose any cranking power. Another option which may be the best is to leave it wired as is but be sure it is protected by a fuse, and add in a 'thermo switch' You can get these from J C whitney , It is a switch that will wrap or attach around a heater or radiator hose that will turn ON the fan At a certain temperature and off after it gets below that temp. It is a momentary control by temperature. This can also be used if you wire through ignition so it will not be On all the time with the ignition but only when the temperature switch calls for it . if not wired through ignition it would work to cool down the radiator when you shut down too! , But if you select a too low temp. switch it could stay on very long and drain battery. to locate hot wires, use either a multi tester - or a test light with ground clip. i hope this helps
Q:Wire and cable models WDZD-BYJ and WDZB-YJY What is the difference between seeking prawn answer!
WDZD-BYJ is halogen-free low smoke flame retardant single-core fabric wire, no sheath. WDZB-YJY is a halogen-free low smoke flame retardant cable with a jacket.
Q:I live in Government housing unfortunately, and the place is literally infested with mice!!, the infestation I reported several months ago and all they did was come in with a few glue traps and left. Now, the mice are more fested and chewing through my electrical wires for my TV, internet modem, etc!! this is going to cost me to replace!.Is the building liable for my damages, despite this being government housing that is subsidized, here in Ontario Canada?.What action can I take, I don't want to loose my housing and make anyone angry but I am getting serious damages to my wires from the mice!.
Gmnt housing? No, they will not pay. Mice are terribly hard to get rid of. I was a professional exterminator for 25 years- here is what to do- and it's not going to be easy. You must purchase several - like twenty, plastic mouse traps- do not try the wooden ones- mice figure them out- Start with like ten traps first. Use peanut butter as bait. Dispose of the dead mice immediately. Place these traps everywhere you have electrical cords (They are probably already eating the wiring on your car in the parking lot (if you have one- talk about expensive!) You will not be able to stop these mice, there are jsut too many of them. The reason they are chewing electrical cords is because they are starving- so you bait will be like heaven to them (which they will soon go to Mouse heaven hopefully). Keep these traps set and freshly baited. You will very likely have to keep this up as long as you live there. There is no other solution I have ever found! Just be glad they are not roaches or rats!
Q:I am trying to change the electrical box to a ceiling fan box. House built in 1959. 4 wires are in the old box 4 white wires are sodered together from 3 of the wires. And one white and 3 black wires are sodered together. I can't take the box out until I cut the wires. What do I do after that? I have a picture I can send.
Hire an electrician and expect that the wiring needs an overhaul and the ceiling and maybe the walls will need to opened enough to replace several wires. This is the minimum to do what you intend. The other choice is to leave it alone. Unless this is a heavy ceiling fan (+ 6 lbs) the existing box may be sufficient for the fan.
Q:I am running a new 15 amp breaker to 2 new outlets. I wired the first outlet black to brass, white to silver and bare copper to the green screw in the metal box. I then took a new length of wire and connected to my first outlet bottom screws the same way white to silver black to brass an bare copper to the other green screw in the box. then ran the wire to the second outlet and connected it the same way as the other. when i hook up the breaker and restore power the breaker trips. i don't know what i have done wrong Someone please help
Well, first of all--double check your wiring. If you're sure this is correct , carefully watch the wires as you push the receptacles back into the box. Better yet, leave the receptacles hanging out and then switch the breaker on. Still tripping? You're gonna need a multi-meter to check to see if your black lead is going to ground or neutral. You may have skinned the insulation back on your wire(s) and didn't realize it. Could be a bad receptacle out of the box but I doubt it. This should be a relatively simple fix. Step away and give your brain a break and give it another shot. Methinks you're probably going to end up chuckling when you find the problem. Hope this was helpful.
Q:Wire yellow and green, respectively, that line of fire or zero line
Third, in the cable trench, tunnel, when both sides of the cable bracket, 1000 volts below the power cable and control cables should be as much as 1000 volts and above the power cables were laid on different stents Fourth, the height of the cable tunnel is generally 19 meters; difficulties, in the local area may be appropriate to reduce the length of the cable bracket in the cable trench should not be greater than 350 mm; in the tunnel should not be greater than 500 mm cable in the cable trench, tunnel laying when the net distance, should not be less than the specified value Cable trenches and wire tunnels should be waterproof; the slope of the bottom drains should not be less than O 5%, and should be set water puddle; water can be collected by the puddle pump, when the conditions, the water can be directly discharged into the sewer
Q:I have a 2003 Acura RSX base model with 80,000 miles on it. Over the last 2 weeks I have had a problem with my dash. Sometimes when I turn off my ignition, the dash lights will turn off and on and it will make a beeping sound. It will do this until I put the key back in and restart the car. It does not happen every time I turn off the ignition, only once in a while.Does anyone know the cause of this? Is this something I should worry about?I know about 6 months ago I had an instance where my car wouldn't start one day and I had to jump it, but when i took it to the shop they found nothing wrong with the battery or alternator. Also, the car has started fine ever since. Maybe something going wrong with electrical wiring?Thank you in advance for your help.
On normal condition, the beeping sound is appear when you already turn off the engine and open the driver door but the key still hold in the hole, it's a security system to avoid key left. If the sound appear when the door still close, do check the wire connection between the key, the door, and the security system. A loosen wire will cause the sensor have a false reading. A bout 6 months ago problem, a lack of battery power can be the cause and when the engine has turn on the charging system is working and the battery is fine again after recharge. Do check the work of alternator and battery capability to save power.

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