High quality 35KV Insulated Overhead Cable

High quality 35KV Insulated Overhead Cable

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m

Supply Capability:: 100000 m/month

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35KV Insulated Overhead Cable

Implemented standard

1KV GB/T12527 10KV GB/T 14049 35KV GB/T14049

Introduction

The product is made up of the copper, aluminum ( aluminum alloy) conductor, inner shield, climate- resistant insulation material and outer shield. It has simple structure and is safe and reliable. It has both excellent properties of the power cable and good physical properties of the aerial cable. By using the climate-resistant insulation material, the product has the excellent properties of resistance to air aging. Compare with the bare wire, it has the good characteristics such as smaller laying distance, hither reliability. It is suitable for using in the high buildings, brush land and bad weather zone.

Characteristics

1.There are three rated voltage: 1KV, 10KV, 35KV;

2.Allowed long-term working temperature:

PE insulation-70℃，PVC insulation-70℃，Cross-linked PE-90℃;

3.When short-circuit (the longest time is not more than 5 second), the highest temperature: PE insulation 130℃，PVC insulation 160℃，Cross-linked PE 250℃;

4.The environment temperature for laying should be not lower than -20℃;

5.The working environment temperature is from -40℃ to +40℃, the relative humidity should be not more than 90% in rainy season;

6.Permitted bending radius

Cable with rated voltage 1KV and below: outer diameter of the cable D≤25mm,bending radius should be not less than 4D. The outer diameter of cable D>25mm, bending radius should be not less than 6D.

Cable with rated voltage 10KV,35KV: Single core cable: 20*（D+d）±5% multiple core cable: 15*（D+d）±5%

In which:

D-the actual outer diameter of the cable, mm;

d-the actual outer diameter of the cable conductor, mm.

Introduction of our company

Our company is a professional China Wire and Cable Manufacturers, mainly supply Aerial bundled cable,House Electric Wire, Insulated Overhead Cable,Aluminium Conductor Steel Reinforced, PVC Control Cables,XLPE Power Cables,BV Electric Wires,Nylon Sheathed Cable,Buried Cable,High Voltage Cable,House Electric Wire,Single Core Flexible Copper Cable,Civil Wire And Cable etc. series of wire and cable products, sincerely welcome everyone to visit.

Q: I have changed lights in my own home many times. I bought a new light for my parents bathroom, but when I put it up I realized they had an electrical outlet on there too. My new light has a black and white wire. Coming from the house it has gray, green, 2 white, black and red. Can I cap off the ones I don't need? Which ones are which? Any help would be greatly appreciated.: It sounds like you disassembled the wires in the junction box and didn't diagram what went where. You now have a real problem in that you don't know, and without being there to analyze your electrical system, none of us here can tell you what went to what. Standard house wiring protocol says that black wires are the hot wire supplying electrical current to something. White wires are supposed to be used as the return/neutral, returning the current back to the circuit breaker or fuse box where they are attached to the ground buss. Normally, protocol says that a green wire [or a TOTALLY BARE wire] is used as a safety grounding conductor, in case the white neutral should get cut open, or disconnected. Other colored wires [the grey and red] are both used as hot wires in 220 volt circuits, and SUGGEST that 220 is SOMEHOW involved in that circuit. What you've got is a potentially deadly nightmare, AND YOU NEED a LICENSED, Professional ELECTRICIAN!!!!!! IF some of the wires were capped off and not connected to any others BEFORE YOU SCREWED the job up, THEN YES, those wires can again be capped off, BUT your question implies that they were NOT capped off before. So if that's the case, they should be connected to where they were before. Again, for safety, and to possibly prevent the house from catching on fire and possibly killing someone, YOU NEED A PROFESSIONAL to get the electrical system restored like it was before!!!!!

Q: Do I need to put the foam in the studs where the electrical wiring goes through? This is for Fire codes in MN: The fire code may require it to prevent the spread of a fire or the stoking of a fire from air moving into the stud bay. If it is required by your fire code then do it. Not a lot of work or expense.

Q: I am putting in a new TV and I am running all new wires through the wall including electrical and cable, can these two wires run next to each other, or will that cause any kind of interference??: It depends. There are various kinds of Cat 5 cables. There is the Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP) and the Shielded Twisted Pair (STP) Cat 5 cables. If youre running parallel to electrical wires, you may want to consider the STP cables as UTP as susceptible to electromagnetic interference.

Q: Bv6 square copper and BvR6 square copper which for the entry line is good, electrician: A display is also commonly referred to as a monitor The monitor is an I / O device belonging to the computer, ie the input and output device It is a certain electronic file through a specific transmission device to the screen and then reflected to the human eye display tool High-definition multimedia interface (English: HighDefinitionMultimediaInterf helium ingot melon cake cover every night, a), is a digital video / audio interface technology, is suitable for image transmission dedicated digital interface, which can transmit audio and video Signal, the maximum data transfer speed of 225GB / s

Q: I do children's clothing store, the front of the store in front of the right side of a wire pole, do not know because the store is not obvious or by the pole pole block, a lot of children's wear to go to the next children's clothing store, even come in and do not come to see, Most people come in after the first sentence is the original there is a children's clothing shop Yeah, said the wire pole to my financial road are blocked, so would like to ask how the feng shui master to resolve more: In the "construction site temporary electricity safety technical specifications" did not mention water and temporary electricity can not be together, you can press the cable straight to the practice (0.7m above and below the depth of 50mm fine sand backfill original soil, the upper cover Hard protection) to the construction, the appropriate widening of the cable trench, so that water and parallel lines. Wire and cable: wire and cable is the transmission of electrical energy, electrical signals and electromagnetic energy conversion to the wire products. Cables are usually made up of cable cores that transmit electrical or electrical signals and protective, insulated sheaths. A cable with only one cable core and a smaller diameter is often referred to as a wire. Also some wires do not have insulated sheaths, called bare wires. The cable in the cable is made of a metal material with good electrical conductivity, usually copper (good electrical conductivity) or aluminum (lower cost).

Q: Does anyone know where I can get a good price on 200 amp copper wire (underground to hook up electricity to a doublewide. Hot#2 Copper, Ground #4Copper and Neutral #2 Copper. 330-350 feet Thanks: At that distance, you would be better with aluminum wire. BUT: #2 copper is 0.156 ohm/1000 feet. You have 700 feet, so the is a resistance of 0.11 ohms. At 200 amps, that is a drop of 22 volts, much too high. Requirement is 5% drop, and at 120 volts, that is 6 volts. #2 copper would be good for 55 amps only at that distance. .

Q: How are they wired up, and how do they work, thanks.: If you are talking about a feed meaning a home run from the panel then the feed usually goes to the light and drops to the switch and can pick up a couple of recepticles in the wall also. The national electrical code allows for a white to switch hot if it is marked on both ends so you can use a two wire run. If you run from the panel to the switch box then you will have a hot switched for the light, one for the hot recepticles and a neutral for all. Keep in mind the green is allways used and only used for a bond and nothing else.That gives you a 3 wire and a bond going from the small switch box to the larger light box in the cieling, Which will work but is harder to follow years later if you have problems. If you run from the panel to the cieling box it is easy to locate and trouble shoot all wires as everything goes to that box. Most switches are single pole and require 2 wires and it is pretty much a in and out deal so that is simple enough but if it is a 3 way ( or switched at 2 places ) you have to use 3 way switches, If you want to switch from 3 places or more then you have to use 2 - 3 way and the rest 4 way. I realize I am not telling you all you have to know but electricity is not for people who dont know what they are doing. You can get shocked and others can get hurt or the house could burn down with you sleeping in it so I suggest you get out the Home Depot do it yourself books or go to the library and learn what and the whys of electricity. I hope what I have told you gets you to see that it takes some home work to make it safe and understandable.

Q: How to identify the quality of the wire is good or bad!: In addition to heat, it is possible to reduce the line power factor and increase the pressure drop.

Q: I have 60 ft and 40 ft of the 1/0 electrical THHN STRANDED wire. I don;t know if be possible to join both, due to I need 95 ft. Does anybody give me an idea? Thanks.: Use splice kits or split bolt connectors and make the splice inside a junction box. Install a cover on the box when you finish.

Q: I have a 2003 Acura RSX base model with 80,000 miles on it. Over the last 2 weeks I have had a problem with my dash. Sometimes when I turn off my ignition, the dash lights will turn off and on and it will make a beeping sound. It will do this until I put the key back in and restart the car. It does not happen every time I turn off the ignition, only once in a while.Does anyone know the cause of this? Is this something I should worry about?I know about 6 months ago I had an instance where my car wouldn't start one day and I had to jump it, but when i took it to the shop they found nothing wrong with the battery or alternator. Also, the car has started fine ever since. Maybe something going wrong with electrical wiring?Thank you in advance for your help.: On normal condition, the beeping sound is appear when you already turn off the engine and open the driver door but the key still hold in the hole, it's a security system to avoid key left. If the sound appear when the door still close, do check the wire connection between the key, the door, and the security system. A loosen wire will cause the sensor have a false reading. A bout 6 months ago problem, a lack of battery power can be the cause and when the engine has turn on the charging system is working and the battery is fine again after recharge. Do check the work of alternator and battery capability to save power.

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