Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3B625
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Product Brief Introduction
Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm, CMAX3B625 is one of the popular models of 300*300 mm glazed floor tile, which is wildly used for floor of kitchen and bathroom as well as balcony and bedroom. These tiles could create an antique feel of classic European life, just like living in the old times of nature and pastoral life.
Product Features
Glazed Floor Tile
Only Grade AAA available
Strict quality control system on product, package and after sale service
Competitive price and with quality quaranteed
Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet
Fast production arrangement after order is confirmed by the client
OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement from the client
Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing
Professional sales team for the whole importing and exporting procedure.
Product Specification
Tile Type: Dry-Pressed Tile, Silk Printing Glazed Surface
Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001
Water Absorption Rate: 3% -- 6%
Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%
Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%
Edge Straightness: ±0.15%
Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)
11pcs/Ctn, 18.5kg/Ctn,1472Ctns/20’Fcl, 1457.28m2/20’Fcl
Production Line & Package
FAQ
1. For Glazed Floor Tile, what is the popular size?
—— Now the popular sizes are 30*30mm, 40*40mm, for some special market, we are shipping 50*50mm tile also.
2. Is there a MOQ for each model?
—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For some special models, whose production could be arranged frequently, 2 or 3 models could be mixed into one container.
3. What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?
—— Normally we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit?
- Q: What is the best tiles?
- Buddy, you said too general, and here simply say, interior decoration tiles must use all-ceramic tiles, tiles first glass polished tiles (anti-skid, wear, anti-penetration, easy to clean, etc.) (The color of the new, three-dimensional sense of strong, followed by wear) the most sub-microcrystalline stone (expensive, not wear-resistant, non-scratch (The price is high, durable, atmospheric) glazed tiles (the color is more, the price is right, with the most) antique all-ceramic cut on the wall (unique style, durable and durable )
- Q: I have never tiled before. I have a 3 x3 ft entrance in my house. I would like to remove the old tile and re tile it. How long should this take? and can I just tile over the old tile or does it have to be removed? but mostly how long should it take me to do?
- I love these how long will it take or how much will it cost questions. Who knows? How fast can you work? I could probably do it in less than 90 minutes of actual working time, but I do it for a living. Much more important questions to answer are these: What is the sub-floor under the tile? You may need to put some Hardi-backer under it before re-tiling. Remember, just because you do something the way it was before doesn't necessarily make the original job correct. How big of a tile are you using? The bigger the tile, the faster the job goes, assuming you have the proper tools to handle the bigger tile. Do you have any tile tools? If not, you will have to buy them or rent them. Since the area is so small and shouldn't cost that much to have done professionally, why don't you consider having it done by someone who knows what they are doing? After you buy or rent all the tools, you won't save very much money. If you asked me to bid the job, I could do it for less than $200 not counting the cost of the tile. That would include any underlayment, the thinset and the grout. AND I own the tools to do it properly. Good luck.
- Q: on to ceramic tile and was told by ace hardware to use acryl pro ceramic tile adhesive ive layed a few tiles but i dont think its right. need some help, is this the correct procedure?????
- i suggest something on top of the ceramic tile, like plywood or particle board. why do you need tile adhesive if the tiles say self-adhesive?
- Q: so i bought tile but not the bull nose end pieces cause they did not have them for that tile. I tiled all the way out to the edge of the counter and now need a way to finish the edge. I have seen wood edges but what is this called and how do you do it? does it butt up against the tile of does it go over? is a wet tile saw supposed to leave ugly, chipped edges? bought a Brand new blade and it did not help.
- The are several types of wood counter edges . Each will fit flat up to the edge of the tile, There is one type that you can get at most home improvement centers that do go up and over the edge of the tile. One other possibility is the metal or plastic edging. This is usually installed on the top tile and its over hung and you put another pc of tile on the edge. You might be able to use a decorative strip of tile on the edge if you can find one that is the same width as you need. Some one mentioned the V type ceramic trim pc, these need to be put on during installation since they partially set on the top of the counter. As far as a saw blade, new blades are not supposed to chip tile so theres a couple of reasons why this may occur. The blade was on back wards, a bearing was going out in the saw itself and causing a wobble. Chip in the blade itself so minor you can t see it. The type of blade. Did you get a segmented blade or a continuous rim type? I ve never liked the segmented blades, can cause chipping on some types of tiles or if you pushed it through to fast. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q: I have a tile floor in a basement bathroom. These are small 2 inch tiles and I would like larger 8 by 8 inch tiles on the floor. Do I need to remove the old tile or can the new tile be laid right over the old tile? The subloor is concrete slab.
- Hey okorder
- Q: We are laying 18 x 18 porcelain tiles in our kitchen for an open house we‘re having in 6 days. We can‘t figure out when and how to tile under the refrigerator. Do we have to move the refrigerator into another room? Can we wait two days for the mortar and grout to set firm and move the refrigerator onto the newly installed tile so we can lay tile where refrigerator will go? If we do that, should we then wait 24 hours for that tile to set so we can move the refrigerator back into place?What is the best way to handle the installation? I would appreciate any thoughts on how this is most ideally done.
- Your refrigerator should have an adjustment at the front, just lower your frige push back at the top of frige, and put some blocking back far enough so you can set your tile. Make sure the tile is far enough under the frige. Lay your tile, and grout. Then push back the frige, remove the blocks, and adjust your wheels as needed.
- Q: What is the basic role of tile glue?
- The basic role is clearly posted more solid brick can not afford to brick Baidu experience - tile adhesive construction method
- Q: tile itself
- There is a powered floor scrapper that can be rented. You have to buy the blade but it isn't that expensive. Most good tool rentals have them.
- Q: tiles to be applied in tub surround and ceiling
- Thinset. okorder /
- Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
- Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
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Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3B625
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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