• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B209 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B209 System 2
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B209 System 3
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B209 System 4
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B209

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B209

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1152 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Nano Finish

Size

600x600mm

Water Absorption Rate

Below 0.5%

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Usage

Floor and wall

Other Choices

many designs, size, colors

Delivery Time

15~20 days after 30% deposit received

 

Features:

 

l  Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

l  Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

l  Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

l  Material: glazed porcelain

l  Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

l  The full polished glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall as well as other public sites.

l  Vivid stone texture and vein bring our decoration the natural stone beauty with much lower cost, easier quality control and easier decoration proceeding.

l  Advanced glazing technology to make sure the tile surface beauty vivid and clean, via ink-jetting or silk printing.

l  We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

l  We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

l  Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as white degree.

 

 

Q:We‘re fixing our place and will need about 1200 sq ft of 24x24 tile. Any ideas as to how/where one can get this at wholesale/lower cost? Thanks!
The tiling alone will cost more than $520.20 but you don't say if the tiling refers to the tile alone or the installation too. (12 X 15 X #2.89 =$520.20) Also you must figure into the amount of tile you will need things like breakage, corner or edge cut tiles, if you want tile baseboards to match the floor and patterns. You should conservatively consider about 10% to 20% more tile will be required as overage. You will also have to consider the cost of renting or buying a tile cutting tool, either a wet-saw or a score-and-snap cutter.
Q:We‘re putting in new porcelain tile floors in the kitchen and bathroom. Should the tile go under the refrigerator? Should tiles go in before or after the new vanities in the bathroom? Any other general tips for a first-time tiler?
You need to tile under the refrigerator because if dont the fridge will be uneven or see the edge and be hard to pull out. vanity should be taken out because it makes it alot easier and gives you the choice to replace the vanity in the future with out worrying about it not covering the tile. But you dont have too
Q:Imloking to buyy subway tile for my bathroom demo. any ideas where I can get it for a discount/
www.okorder . Go there, go to your city, do a search of subway tile or go to the materials, household, or furniture sections. We are using craigslist to redo our bathroom!! Have fun!
Q:I just grouted the ceramic tiles I laid in my kitchen. The grout was supposed to be a dark maroon color, but it turned out a whitish powdery color (efflorescence). What is the main cause of this...it can't be water coming from underneath the tiles because the basement is underneath the kitchen floor...unless it came from the mortar under the kitchen tiles. How do I get rid of the efflorescence. Grout cleaner didn't work...should I use salfamic (spelling?) acid and scrub the grout lines? Can J just refloat new grout over the existing grout? HELP...I need to put my base cabinets in, but I can't stand looking at my floor the way it is.
You have a larger problem than you think, that is if your basement floor is of solid construction. If so you have damp in the floor, and sorry to be the barer of bad news but it wont go away. You need a d.p.m. in sub floor prior to tiles is the only way. Jeff
Q:Okay, I‘m doing a tub surround with porcelain tile. Got the last cut around the fixtures that requires a hole to be cut in the center of the tile. Long story short, I‘ve busted 22 tiles trying. I‘ve tried every single drill bit I‘ve got. Everything from metal hole punchers to concrete bits. Nothing even scratches this porcelain tile. Any tips on how to punch a hole in this tile? I‘m desperate!
I've installed a lot of tile in my time and I'm a bit confused with some details in your Q. You state you understand the tiles NEED to be cut with a wet saw, which by the way isn't the only tool that works,,, and yet in the same sentence you state you HAD A PLAY?? and tiles chipped? I'll assume that maybe that's a coloquialism? Keep in mind that while porcelain is slightly different in the way the tiles are produced, it's still fired/glazed clay...Essentially Glass. Porcelain often has the tile color and grain running all the way through the tile. The design aids in chips being less visible. In tiling any area all cuts should be at the perimeters, or in areas where a column must be cut around, etc. The pieces of tile should have been crafted with the edges slightly depressed from the rest of the face of the tile, allowing for grouting. One answer has a good suggestion, in the mechanics of a wet saw. Whether or not you rented/borrowed/or bought one, the blade should be new, or nearly new, for every new job. The water dispersal should be even and constant during operation. Any guides should be secure to allow a square/non binding cut. I have various tools I use, always save the cuts for the last, and actually use a Di-Grinder with a Diamond blade, as often as I use the wet saw. Steven Wolf
Q:my husband put in tile in the motel i work at and it is ceramic tile and some of the rooms are popping up up can you tell me why? by the way could it be the climate i live in florida!
Could be the humidity. What did he use to stick them down? Did he use a mastic that comes already mixed in a tub? If so, there will probably always be problems in a humid or wet areas. Thinset is best for tile.
Q:I am planning on laying down tile in my dining room and kitchen. I recently saw an offset pattern with 12x12 tiles and liked it. I‘ve now decided to go with the same offset pattern but with 20x20 ceramic tiles. Would I still have to find the center of the room and start tiling out from the center or can I just start at one wall and go from there since i‘ll be using the offset pattern? Thanks in advance.
This Site Might Help You. RE: How to start an offset tile pattern? I am planning on laying down tile in my dining room and kitchen. I recently saw an offset pattern with 12x12 tiles and liked it. I‘ve now decided to go with the same offset pattern but with 20x20 ceramic tiles. Would I still have to find the center of the room and start tiling out from the...
Q:I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q:I am trying to decide between installing hardwood or tile floors in my kitchen remodel. Any thoughts on pros and cons of each? Thanks.
Ceramic tile. It will take the traffic better, wood is prone to water damage Tile cleans much easier than wood and will take moppings where wood you should never mop( water can damage it). Grout, when you seal it,cleans easy. Wood looks great other places and add value to a house ( ceramic does to) but not in a high traffic water prone area such as the kitchen. Much more maintenance than ceramic. Wood will cost a bit less butt ceramic will installed properly will last a life time with out having to be refinished.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
Q:i stay in a moblie home and i would like to lay tile but a lot of ppl are saying not to cause within time the wood under it would give way is that true i dont want to put more carpet cause i have little ones and am tired of shampooing my carpet i have to do it about 4 times a yr and my carpet is a dark green i know but thats what it came with it look nice when it was new but the carpet is 3 yrs old now and not so good looking after so much cleaning .well let me know please
From a financial standpoint I would stay away from tile in a mobile home. In order for you to lay it you would have to install cement board over the sub-floor. Once installed you would have to be leery of the tile cracking if the trailer ever had to be moved. You should check out the laminate flooring selection, they produce cost effective easily installable floor that looks like tile or wood and are even easier to clean than tile. Check out the selection at Home Depot or Lowes.

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