• Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A413 System 1
  • Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A413 System 2
  • Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A413 System 3
Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A413

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A413

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1683 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm, CMAX3A413 is one of the popular models of 300*300 mm glazed floor tile, which is wildly used for floor of kitchen and bathroom as well as balcony and bedroom. These tiles could create an antique feel of classic European life, just like living in the old times of nature and pastoral life.  

 

Product Features

  Glazed Floor Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on glazing, water absorption rate as well as color shade and straigtness

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Dry-Pressed Tile, Silk Printing Glazed Surface

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 3% -- 6%

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  11pcs/Ctn, 18.5kg/Ctn,1472Ctns/20’Fcl, 1457.28m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A413

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A413

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A413

 

FAQ

 

1.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as China Shipping, MSC, HPL etc.

2.    For Glazed Floor Tile, is the 40*40 available?

—— Yes, 40*40 is available. Based on the actual market demand, we could also supply 45*45 and 50*50 accordingly.

Q: Hi, I was wondering if the house appraisal for a house with all hardwood floor was higher than it is if the house has all tile. Thanks!
There isn't a rule of thumb on this. Gorgeous wood floors in great condition may be worth more than nasty outdated tile, but a floor full of heated travertine, italian marble, or slate will be worth more than a crap pergo floor or wood flooring that's torn to hell.
Q: Hi, I was wondering what type of tile is easier to lay down on a bathroom floor, large, single tiles or small tiles that are connected together by mesh. I have never done anything like this before, so any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
Well, I'm a tile installer, I think the larger tiles are easier to lay. The small tiles that are connected by mesh are hard to get aligned perfectly. The smaller, single tiles (4-1/4 x 4-1/4), are easy to lay, but they're not rated for floors. So, that leaves the larger tiles (anything 8x8 or larger). These are set with a product called thinset mortar. It comes in a bag in a powder form. You mix it with water to a peanut butter consistency spread it on the floor with a notched trowel (usually a 1/4 x 1/4 square notch). You let that set for 12 to 24 hours, then come back and grout the grout joints.
Q: We are laying 18 x 18 porcelain tiles in our kitchen for an open house we‘re having in 6 days. We can‘t figure out when and how to tile under the refrigerator. Do we have to move the refrigerator into another room? Can we wait two days for the mortar and grout to set firm and move the refrigerator onto the newly installed tile so we can lay tile where refrigerator will go? If we do that, should we then wait 24 hours for that tile to set so we can move the refrigerator back into place?What is the best way to handle the installation? I would appreciate any thoughts on how this is most ideally done.
If the kitchen is big enough move the fridge after you have found the center of the room, set the the quadrant with the fridge first using speed set or quick set for that area. then tile as much as you can without ruining your path for the fridge. after 3 hours mix just enough and grout only where the fridge will cover because that grout may turn a different shade than the rest of the room. next day finish setting your tile, next day grout the rest of the job, replace 1/4 round, and you have a finished product provided you layed the tile on an approved substrate, cut your jambs and mixed your setting materials properly.
Q: Easiest way to remove stick tile
You okorder /... You may also need to use some type of solvent or cleaner if you want to remove all of the glue.
Q: i put up glass tile on my kitchen backsplash. i grouted today. i am unable to remove the grout haze this evening however. it is causing the tile to look terrible. any tips? i don‘t want to scratch it.
test a spot with something like limeaway, but dont get it alll over the grout.
Q: i have ceramic tile on my countertop and i do not like it and i was wondering if i could put a countertop on top of the tile? i just want to know what my inexpensive route will be. i do not have a lot of money to have things done. just want to know what my options would be.
Yes, you can tile over your existing tops. Consider, though, that if your landlord doesn't like it, he can charge you your security deposit for removal. Taking tile off of counters is an expensive, messy process, so you might want to get the OK first. Good luck w/your project.
Q: Can I paint over the tiles? If so what kind of products would I use and how would I prep the tiles?
i wouldn't paint them . . .I used to have this shower remodel job for a college, we'd have to paint over the old shower tiles with the above mentioned 2-part epoxy paint...and it sucked. not only was it a hassle to sand those tiles, but to mix the paint and get it smooth and even...it's just very frustrating and i wouldn't wish it on my enemies. if the tiles are REAL BAD, then save up and just do a bathroom remodel...if not, then use other colors to accent the bathroom. blue and yellow go well togther, also blue and orange...or you could get a rich brown to go with it, it really depends on the blue and how bad it is. hope this helps good luck
Q: Cleaning tiles is a lot of work because they attract mildew, soap scum, etc. Now that the cleaning and scrubbing is done, what‘s next? What‘s an easy and environment-friendly way to maintain tiles? Also, if you have a suggestion for keeping a bathtub clean, that would be appreciated as well. Thanks!
Always wipe off excess water after you bathe or shower. You can use a wash cloth and wipe off the water from the tiles. Buy a spray bottle and fill 90% water, 10% vinegar. Spray all the tiles in the shower/bath area with the water/vinegar once a week and let dry. The vinegar will not harm the grout or tiles and will eliminate mildew from growing. Bleach would be good for cleaning the tub but its not environmentally friendly. Try water/vinegar and steel wool to get the stains out. Then once a week water/vinegar and wipe clean.
Q: We grouted the tile, and also had a border tile up.. the border is decorative and has some texture to it.We did wipe off the excess as we grouted. The next day tho, my brother sealed it, before making sure all the dust was off.. now there is some grout dust sealed onto the border tile. I scrubbed with a toothbrush, and managed to get some of it off.. but not all.Is there anything I can do to remove the grout, or even the seal, without ruining the finish on the tile??
I tile every day of my life, and I empathize. Too bad the dust wasn't wet mopped away completely. I'd find out what the ingredients of the sealer are, and try to find a chemical designed to dissolve it. Below is a general link with some topics regarding your issue. I guess what I'm more confused about is that the sealer was apparently applied to the entire surface, not just the grout? Steven Wolf 45 plus years as a contractor
Q: im going to tile the floor next weekend with 16x16 ceramic tile, and i could use some advice2 questions actually...1. when i lay my backerboard, and tape the staggered seams, do i keep that thinset over the tape very thin? im afraid of a hump in the floor when i go to lay tile.2. how much pressure do i apply when seting the tiles in the thinset? ive seen websites that show very little pressure..and some that show alot of pressure. does it need to float on the thinset or mash it down in the thinset. i just want this to turn out good...its my 1st time, and ive done alot of research, but the information varies from person to person. any added advice or tips on this project would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, you do need the tape, this like drywall will prevent you from seeing the cracks. When you put the thinset down, use between a 1/4 trowel and a 3/8 trowel. I would use the later with the size tile you are using. Also, when you put down the thinset, go over the seam with the trowel and this will fill in but not over fill the seam. When you lay the tile down, you will put it down and not only push down with a Little pressure, but you will also want to twist a little. to make sure your doing it right, take you first piece and pull it back up. You will want to have thinset on 90 to 100 percent of the back of the tile.

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