Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct of cnbm

Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct of cnbm System 1

Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct of cnbm System 2

Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct of cnbm System 3

Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct of cnbm System 4

Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct of cnbm

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 1 m.t./month

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Quick Details

Steel Grade:	Steel	Standard:	ASTM,BS,GB	Wire Gauge:	0.65mm--2.2mm
Place of Origin:	Jiangsu China (Mainland)	Type:	Drawn Wire	Application:	Construction,Automotive System; Wire Rope
Alloy Or Not:	Non-alloy	Special Use:	Cold Heading Steel	Model Number:	0.65mm--2.2mm
Brand Name:	Rayee	Packing:	Roll packing, Z2 packing	Surface of Steel Wire:	Bright; Galvanized
Manufacturing Capacity:	600 tons per month

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	STANDARD EXPORT PACKING OR AS PER CUSTOMER REQUEST
Delivery Detail:	WITHIN 7-10DAYS AFTER CONFIRMING YOUR ORDER

Specifications

Galvanized Steel Wire
wire diameter:0.2-5.6mm
zinc coating:30g-260g/m2
Tensile strength: HIGH

Galvanized Steel Wire for Flexible Duct

1.MATERIAL:10#-80# STEEL

2.DIAMETER: 0.2MM-5.6MM

3.SURFACE TREATMENT:ELECTRO GALVANIZED,HOT DIPPED GALVANIZED

4.ZINC COATING: 40G/M2 - 300G/M2

5.PACKING:ROLL PACKING WITH PLASTIC SPOOL INSIDE, POLYWOVEN BAG OUTSIDE

STANDARD Z2 PACKING

OR PRODUCE AS YOUR REQUESTS

PLS FEEL FREE TO CONTACT US

Nominal Diameter	Minimum number of reverse bends			Minimum number of Torsions (Bright and Class B)			Minimum mass of coating (g/m2)
	(Bright and Class B)			Minimum number of Torsions (Bright and Class B)			Minimum mass of coating (g/m2)
	1770 Mpa	1960 Mpa	2160Mpa	1770 Mpa	1960 Mpa	2160Mpa	Class B
over 0.6mm ~incl. 0.65mm	11	10	9	28	25	23	60
over 0.65mm ~incl. 0.70mm	10	9	8	28	25	23	60
over 0.70mm~incl. 0.75mm	16	15	14	28	25	23	60
over 0.75mm~incl. 0.80mm	15	14	13	28	25	22	60
over 0.80mm~incl. 0.85mm	13	12	11	28	25	22	70
over 0.85mm ~incl. 0.90mm	12	11	10	28	25	22	70
over 0.90mm~incl. 0.95mm	11	10	9	28	25	22	70
over 0.95mm ~incl. 1.00mm	10	9	8	28	25	22	70
over 1.00mm ~incl. 1.10mm	17	16	14	26	23	21	80
over 1.10mm ~incl. 1.20mm	16	15	13	26	23	21	80
over 1.20mm ~incl. 1.30mm	15	14	13	25	22	20	90
over 1.30mm ~ incl.1.40mm	13	12	10	25	22	19	90
over 1.40mm ~incl.1.50mm	11	10	9	25	22	19	100
over 1.50mm ~incl. 1.60mm	14	13	12	25	22	19	100
over 1.60mm ~incl. 1.65mm	13	12	11	25	22	19	100
over 1.65mm~incl. 1.70mm	13	12	11	25	22	19	100
over 1.70mm~incl. 1.80mm	11	11	10	25	22	19	100
over 1.80mm ~incl. 1.85mm	10	10	8	24	21	18	100
over 1.85mm ~incl. 1.90mm	10	10	8	24	21	18	115
over 1.90mm~incl. 2.00mm	9	9	7	24	21	18	115

Q: I just removed a Australian light switch that I've never seen before that controlled a bathroom ceiling fan and the bathroom light. (both buttons on a single panel switch)I have a black wire coming from the switch box that has 2 other black wires splitting out from the connection point, one of each going to the fan and the light. And a single black wire going to the ceiling fan and a red wire to the light.I'm just putting in your everyday off/on switch one for each the fan and the light. any help? what are the positive and negative wires?: Here in the USA we use Black and Red for power (positive) , a white wire for a neutral and green (or bare copper) for ground. I am guessing that the red and black are the independent power wires and the other black wires are the main power. the use of a multimeter should be used to verify which is which. Since your putting in a single switch (which is a interrupter) where you have one black splitting to two, remove the 2 wires and make it a single wire and attach to the line side of the switch. Then connect the red and black wire for light and fan with a 3rd wire (tail piece) and attach the tail wire to the load side of the switch., Remember to test your power source first. If in doubt, hire a electrician. No one wants a fire!!!! Better to be safe then sorry.

Q: I am moving a stove that has four wires - bare copper (ground), red, white, and black.The location I am putting it in only has three wires - red, white, and black.Can I just ignore the ground on the new location since it doesn't have one? Or should I cross one of the other wires with the ground?: Your four-wire stove has a terminal where you can connect the bare/green and white wires together, most have a jumper to connect the two terminals. You don't want to leave any wires unconnected. The other two wires (red black) are connected the same way between 3-wire and 4-wire units. You'll have to buy a 3-wire cable for your stove to plug it into the 3-wire receptacle. The new code requires 4-wire connections. The bare/green wire and the white neutral wire are run back to the circuit breaker panel separately at which point the are connected together on a buss bar.

Q: I'm trying to wire a Sony L410X stereo to my 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500. I don't want to use a wiring harness, so I'm trying to figure out how to splice the wires together. I don't know how to hook the power wires up correctly. Obviously hooking the speakers up will be easy. I've tried looking at the wiring diagram but it seems like on the stereo system diagram it's positive and negative whereas the truck wiring is not identifying the negative wiring, just 12v+ Constant and 12v+ Switching. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!: i'm having concern visualizing precisely what you're seeing. If I understand you wisely the wires popping out of the ceiling could be as follows; thick yellow/green cable is maximum probable the ceiling floor and in all hazard linked to the ceiling container via a screw? uncertain relating to the yellow cord, in all hazard useful, however the crimson and blue could be useful and the black adverse. the reason for various wires is your place is in all hazard pre-under pressure for a ceiling fan. many times the blue cord is going to the fan and is controlled via a separate change, and then many times a white or crimson cord for the useful for the gentle; back, controlled via a separate change. Black would desire to consistently be adverse. i do no longer understand why your gentle has such extremely some diverse wires even with the undeniable fact that? many times in elementary terms a favorable and adverse till you have diverse lights you like controlled via diverse switches? perhaps the link below would be extra counsel...

Q: i need to know how to rewire it to make it fire the only wire that is still there is the one that runs to the distributor cap all the other wires are gone is it sopose to wire to the key please help: to the + terminal of the coil, run a wire that sends 12v. when the ignition switch is turned on.

Q: I have a Hunter 5 minute fan. I have four wires coming from my ceiling. Red, Black, White, and Bare Copper. The Fan has a Green Wire, Black Wire, White WIre,and a Black/White striped Wire. The Ceiling Plate also has green wire. I know to connect the black to black, red to black/white striped, white to white. But for the green and copper wires, do I connect the copper wire from the ceiling to the green wire in the ceiling plate and also to the green wire from the fan?: This Site Might Help You. RE: Where do I connect the green ground wires on my ceiling fan? I have a Hunter 5 minute fan. I have four wires coming from my ceiling. Red, Black, White, and Bare Copper. The Fan has a Green Wire, Black Wire, White WIre,and a Black/White striped Wire. The Ceiling Plate also has green wire. I know to connect the black to black, red to black/white striped,...

Q: Well i bought new speakers for my 92 integra and when i installed them i also wanted to get new speaker wire.how would i go about installing all new wires?would you recommend have circuit city do it or is it not as hard as it looks?: Follow the old wires. It is very simple. Chances are there is nothing wrong with the old wires.

Q: I have an immersion heater in my hot water cylinder (UK airing cubbard), but the wiring isn't connected. But, I seem to be missing a small piece or two. The previous lead wire from the timer/switch is stil there and has two wires in it. Does someone have a generic wiring digram showing which wires connect to the thermostat and which wires connect to the heating element? Thanks!: Normal wiring with two connections on thermostat, on from timer and two on element would be a single wire from one of the timer wires to one connection on thermostat, one wire from other connection on thermostat to heater connection, then one wire from other heater connection back to remaining connection on timer. This is if the thermostat is high voltage and not a low voltage signal to a controller perhaps on the timer.

Q: I currently have a ceiling fan wired to a dimmer wall switch that controls the fan and the light, not good I know. I would like to set up the dimmer switch where it controls the light only and then i can use the fan pull switch for the fan. but i am not sure how to wire this with my current wires. In the wall box where the dimmer switch is I have two sets of wires coming from two different locations. one set has a black, red, white, and green. the other location has black, white and copper. currently the green and copper are connected and capped, the two whites are connected together and capped, two blacks are and connected to the black wire coming from the dimmer and the red is connected to the other black wire from the dimmer. how would I wire the dimmer switch to only control the light and not the fan? I want to make sure i do this safely.any assistance is greatly appreciated.: enable me initiate out by making use of asserting that the cord's popping out of the ceiling bypass like this, Black cord is alway the warm cord the White cord is often the common floor cord the bare cord is the earth floor cord. if there's a purple cord popping out of the ceiling it is so which you would be able to turn the mild off at extra then one change . i'm uncertain what a hunter fan is ,yet what ever you do do no longer hook the black (warm) cord with the WHITE (floor) cord, in case you probably did try this ,you will could reset your breaker , it form of seems such as you may have 2 purple cord popping out of the ceiling , in case you do you may hook them to the Black / White cord, it is so which you would be able to paintings the mild from the two change.

Q: Hello, I couldnt find a more appropriate category for this question, so i'm hoping someone here knows a little about wiring. today my booster fan burnt out, so I had to replace it. I got a 6in-line duct fan from the home depot. When I got home and took it out of the box, there is just wires with no plug on it. I have an old lamp that I took the cord off of, but there is only 2 cords, pos neg. The new fan has 3. white, black, and green. the black is the hot wire, and the green is grounded to the metal of the fan, and the white I am not sure of. I just want to know how to wire this plug to this new fan. if anyone knows how to do this please get back to me. Any help will be greatly appreciated. once again thank you.: As you say, the black wire is hot and the green wire is ground. The white wire is called neutral. It's the return path for the voltage from the hot wire. Connect the black and white wires to the two power wires in your duct. Hopefully the colors are the same. The hot wire in the duct may be a different color, red or something. Colors like this are frequently used to mean a hot wire that's switched. It sounds like there's a plug for the fan. You can wire on a 3 pin plug and use an adaptor to plug it into a 2 pin outlet or just wire on a 2 bladed plug and leave the green wire off. Make sure it can't touch anything and cause a short.

Q: wic iring codes for turner plus three wired to uniden washington cb radio: I love wiring questions :) do you want to use the PTT? If yes you can assume it is a switch and solder it inline with the lead the other end (after the switch would be connected to the lead end of the 1/4 if you have a pigtail 1/4 then this would be the insulated wire, the ground would simply connect to the uninsulated wire if you are actually using a do it yourself 1/4 plug then the same rules apply only you are soldering to the terminal inside the plug sleeve rather then to bare wires (I always prefer this its cleaner). Please Note: The PTT switch will cause a loud pop when it is engaged and released on a Hi Gain guitar amp and sometimes this can damage the speakers as well as delicate internal components so do this of coarse at your own risk.

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