Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-WTDE001

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-WTDE001

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Loading Port:: Shekou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 500 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-WTDE001 is a very popular color in the present market. Just like other models, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its stone like surface, being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Product Features

Full Polished Porcelain Tile, high glossy

Grade AAA available only

Strict quality control system on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

Much more competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast production arrangement

OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

Comprehensive marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team available for the whole order operation process

Product Specification

Tile Type: Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Glossiness: 》 90 Degree

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, , 35KgS/Ctn, 36 Ctns/Pallet, 780 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1123.2 m2/20’Fcl

For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 56Kgs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 500 Ctns/20’Fcl, 960 m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-WTDE001

FAQ

1. For Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile, what is the difference from polished porcelain tile?

—— For full polished porcelain tile, there is a special glaze layer on the tile surface, while for polished porcelain tile, there is no glaze layer.

2. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For those models whose production could be arranged frequently, we could mix 2 or 3 models in one container.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

4. What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

5. For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

6. Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.

7. Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?

—— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.

8. Could we be your exclusive agent in our country?

—— Possibly. For some countries we are hoping to find a proper partner in working market together. For sure we need to have a good talking for the details.

9. Could we arrange the our own QC to check the items before container loading?

—— Yes, of course. Your quality checking will be welcome all the times.

Q:Complete DIY newbie here with an outdated bathroom that I want to make a master. The floor is covered in hideous 1x1 tiles. I will replace this tile with some 12x12 or 8x8. Any suggestions on how to get this stuff off?: A lot depends on just how its layed and the substrate that it s over. I ve seen tiles done over a thin plywood, in which case you use a hammer, bust it up and remove the ply wood and all and start new. The tile could be on a mud bed in which you can either use a hammer and wide masonry chisel and go along and chisel then off . Then you can decide to remove the mud bed or go over top and reuse that substrate. Pull the stool or an in floor heat vent , if you have one, and you can determine what is under the tile. What looks like hardwood in the hall ( I can t tell for sure), and if the tile is semi flush with that, chances are its a mud bed. I m don t think its a cement board since you say it was done in the 70s and cement board wasn t invented untill the mid 70s. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:My tile is ugly mint green. nothing matches.I would like to know if I can paint this without it looking tacky.: I have seen tile painted before. You have to get a special type of paint to paint tile. Go to the website below and search for painting tile. I have seen something on here before about this.

Q:What is the loss of tiles? What is the difference between floor tiles and bathroom tiles? Living room masonry 80X80 balcony, bathroom floor, kitchen floor is 30X30 bathroom wall, kitchen wall is 30X45. We help me see how much loss in this: The state for the tile paving loss is not a serious requirement and description of the tile in the paving process, due to the construction level of workers, the degree of careful differences, the relevant size of the paving area, whether it is related to special flower shop , Eventually leading to its loss will be different. In general, in the tile purchase, according to the actual paving area plus 5-10% of the loss is appropriate.

Q:I have broken tiles that i desperately need to fix ,but i cant seem to find a match for the existing tile , is there any place that make the tile for me?: I have no idea. I know when I had my house tiled, I bought about ten spares just in case. I haven't had to use them yet though. Do you know where you bought the tile? Maybe you could try looking at one of those special order books that they carry in the stores.

Q:hi we have old carpet on top of tiled floor in our dining room the carpet really needs replacing but I have no idea how to fix the grippers down onto the tilesany ideas how I can do this without pulling up the tiles?: I will have to assume you are talking about vinyl tile?? I can't imagine laying carpet over ceramic tiles!!! If your old carpet was wall-to-wall, all you need to do is untangle the old carpet from the needle-like protrusions located next to each wall. You can then lay new wall-to-wall carpet over the old tiles and connect it to the protrusions just like the old carpet was. If you are opting for an area rug, you will need to remove the old tacked-down carpet holders around the perimeter and repair or replace the vinyl tiles that now have holes in them.

Q:Looking to install ceramic tile over concrete basement slab, 12x12 or 13x13 tiles. Main question is how perfectly level/flat does the concrete need to be. If I put a tile down and there is some minor rocking is that no good or will the thinset adhesive take care of that.: Any rocking means the tile is hitting either a high spot or there is a low spot. Low spots can be dealt with the thin set. As long as its less than a 1/4. High spots usually needs to be ground down flat. So to answer your question , for ease of installation and the prevention of cracked tiles at a later date, floors need to be as flat as possible. If you have minor rocking with no thin set down, in some cases a larger sized trowel will do the trick. Each case is different and has to be dealt with differently. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:How is oriental Paul tiles?: 4 test weight The same size of the floor tiles, the greater the weight, the better the quality, which is a relatively simple and rugged and effective selection method. Good quality tiles (800mm * 800mm) a pack of three, not a regular exercise of adult men is difficult to move up alone. (I belong to the type of extreme lack of exercise, two Nobel 800mm * 800mm tiles I can not move a person) Weight reference: a 800mm * 800mm tile about 30 pounds to 40 pounds, a 600mm * 600mm tile about 12 pounds to 18 pounds, a 300mm * 300mm tile about 3 pounds to 5 pounds. 5 listen to the sound With a hard object (such as carrying the key) flick, the sound more crisp, the higher the degree of porcelain, the better the quality. You can also use the fingers to clamp the corner of the tile, so that the tiles hanging down, with the other hand flick the lower tiles, the more clear the sound, the better the quality. This method may be more virtual, we should listen to a few pieces of different price tiles in order to have the ability to accurately determine. 6 to see the water absorption In the back of the tiles, watching the water spread after the speed of water, in general, the slower the water, indicating that the greater the density of tiles, the better the quality. Tiles should not absorb water, if the tiles to absorb water, and from the front to see the water stains, that shows the quality is poor, do not buy. Wall is a certain degree of water absorption, it is difficult to use this method to test, but now the wall and floor tiles are basically supporting the sale of tiles qualified, wall is also no big problem. Poor quality of the tiles on the back of a larger water absorption

Q:I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?: Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

Q:I wanted to put ceramic tile over the linoleum (in good shape) in our bathroom (floor is concrete). Can I do this or do I need to remove all the linoleum? Thanks: My kitchen was tiled with ceramic over the linoleum..it has a concrete floor under it..it has no cracks or grout failure after 8 years. The tiler man just cut the curled edges like around the perimeter and he rough sanded the lino so the mortar would stick good. He said as long as the lino is still stuck good to the floor there is no problem tiling over it as long as it is prepped right. He must be right after all those years and still no problems! Removing old lino is a pain if it is still stuck really well.

Q:I ripped up all the existing tile, it was small tiles that I had to chisel up. There is quite a bit of thinset that is bonded to the wood floor and its impossible to get it all up. If I try and chisel it all off I end up ripping up the wood and making it worse.I think the wood sub floor is sitting on another older piece of sub floor but i‘m not sure.What are my options here?- put cement board over it (do i need to put waterproof membrane?) and then tile it? If I do this the bathroom floor will be slightly higher then the hallway floor.- Can I use self leveler on the wood subfloor and then tile over it? it would probably be the ideal height.- Do I chance ripping up the subfloor and doing cement board and then tile?Am I missing any other options?: Use the cement board or 1/4 exterior plywood. I don't know about waterproof membrane, ask when you buy the cement board. You can get moldings to cover up the fact that the floors are uneven, just remember to pick up your feet. Trying to level would be a nightmare, IMHO! Ripping up the subfloor is a lot of work for nothing.

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