Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXFR001

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXFR001

Ref Price:: $6.15 - 6.25 / m²

Loading Port:: Guangzhou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1182.72

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAXFR001 is a very popular color in the present market. Just like other models, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its stone like surface, being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Product Features

Full Polished Porcelain Tile, high glossy

Grade AAA available only

Strict quality control system on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

Much more competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast production arrangement

OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

Comprehensive marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team available for the whole order operation process

Product Specification

Tile Type: Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Glossiness: 》 90 Degree

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, , 35KgS/Ctn, 36 Ctns/Pallet, 780 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1123.2 m2/20’Fcl

For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 56Kgs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 500 Ctns/20’Fcl, 960 m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXFR001

FAQ

1. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For those models whose production could be arranged frequently, we could mix 2 or 3 models in one container.

2. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

3. What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

Q: Ten months ago had expensive black tile installed in master bath. Now the tile appears dull and definitely not shiny, and we‘ve tried the usual cleaners, but can‘t get the shine back. Any suggestions on what we might try to return the lustre to this nice black tile?: Sounds okorder They have some information on there as well as they will help you find a contractor.

Q: rented an apartment about 1 year ago.My landlord put a brand new bathroom in including ceramic floor tiles,I just noticed cracks in 6 or 7 of the tiles but I do not remember doing any damage that would cause this.The only thing I did was flood the bathroom but mopped it up right away and the floor is waterproof anyway.The landlord said those tiles where very expensive and said they should last at least 10 years before they crack,and now she is taking the cost of the tiles including installation cost out of my security deposit.: hi desire, you will possibly desire to touch the tradesman who laid the tiles to rectify the priority. It feels like they did no longer lay the suitable underlay for tiles. Are the tiles laid onto a concrete floor or wood floor? in the event that they have been laid on concrete, did they first lay that concrete in basic terms before tiling, or is it a preexisting concrete floor? If the concrete became basically laid in basic terms before tiling, and then the tiles laid right this moment quickly after, it relatively is obtainable the concrete has cracked and hence cracking the tiles. If tiles laid onto wood floor, did they first positioned down the ideal 'tile underlay' for wood flooring? without this underlay, the tiles does not adhere appropriate to the wood and can quickly raise. There might additionally be a concern with the adhesive that the tradesman used. Regardless, I strongly propose you touch the guy who laid the tiles to get them to evaluate and rectify the priority at their cost, no longer yours. If this physique of techniques does not confirm the situation call the corporation of the tiles and additionally the best contractor who put in the showering room. i'm hoping this became of help to you desire.

Q: I have hot water radiant heat in a concrete slab that leaks occasionally so I can‘t put carpet on it. Do I dare put ceramic tile over it? Maybe the tile would keep the moisture down.: You may want to make the first answer the best answer now because you probably won't get a better one. Covering it is a short-term fix and the moisture will continue eventually not only forming mold but the tile will come up.

Q: Do you seal only the grout or the whole tile and grout?: Ceramic tiles do not need sealing just the grout

Q: Recently, my carpet got a bit singed in front of the fireplace. so, I decided to place tile in front of the fireplace. I plan to remove the carpet and the padding. what will be left is the plywood and 2x4‘s. not exactly sure if there is anything under the plywood since this was an addition and is on top of the garage, where the garage is not underground but has cinderblock walls. when my son jumps around, it kinda shakes the floor.what I need to know is if cement board has to be used. can I just place tile over plywood with the appropriate adhesive? remove plywood all together? what is the simplest method for a single momma with low funds who is not familiar with laying tile? my second inquiry is about finishing it off. I can do the grout easy enough, but what about where the tile meets the carpet? I really hate the cheap look of those metal things, but I don‘t know what other options there are except for folding (?) the carpet under (?). suggestions?thanks in advance!!: In the very least you ll need cement board. For 2 reasons.. One is to have the proper support so the tile won t break and the second is because its fire code ( unless this is a sealed gas fireplace) to have a non combustible in front of the fire place.. There are codes on how big this must be also. Not doing so could possible void any fire insurance you have if a fire should occur.. As far as fixing the carpet it s best to turn and tack the carpet to the tile.. You ll need a carpet installer to do this.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: Hello. The office we work in has what we believe to be vinyl tiles, 12x12, with a white powdery substance that is always on the floor. It looks as though the tile has never been sealed before so I‘m not sure if this is the cause. I have read online about efflorescence. Could this be that? I‘m really nervous because I don‘t know if it is asbestos. There are a few people in this area, and our chairs are constantly rolling around on the floor. I would say that the floor is just worn down because of the high traffic but I just wanted opinions on what it could be. This powder gets on the bottom of our chairs and our shoes. Any help is appreciated!: Mpffff... 12 x 12 tiles are extremely unlikely to be asbestos-based. Efflorescence happens only with concrete/mortar-based materials. However, if the tiles are loosely laid (still solid, but with gaps or areas of poor adhesion) over concrete with moisture underneath, you could be getting efflorescence penetrating the tile - and if this is a slab-on-grade, that is even likely. If it is laid over anything but concrete that is not the issue. Older VCT (vinyl composition tile) will deteriorate with age and the surface will powder and crumble. But by this point, the stuff should be coming right off the floor.

Q: how many tiles will it take: Hi, Are you sure it's 102 ft? That's more like a dining hall for a small army, rather than a kitchen. Maybe you intended 10 ft and 2 in by 18 ft. Anyway, the normal way to tile a room is to put down two chalk lines that cross in the center of the room and bisect each side of the room. One then starts laying tiles from the center of the room and works toward the sides and ends. If you mean that your tiles are 28 in by 28 in, then the required number of tiles for a 10' 2 x 18 ft room would be Approximately as follows: 6 tiles along long dimension would leave 2 feet at each end, and 4 tiles along the short dimension, assuming it is 10' 2, would leave 10 inches on each side. Dovering the center section would require 24 tiles Covering the uncovered part along the edges would depend to some extent on whether you have a matching pattern. To conver the ends you would need a at least 8 tiles. To cover the sides you could probably cut the tiles and use part of one tile for one side and the other part for the other side. (That depends to some extent on borders and how particular you are about matching.) So, if you cut the tiles, you would need either 6 tiles or possibly 7. So, in summary we have this: 24 .....tiles for the center section 8........ tiles for the ends 7........tiles for the sides. ------------------------ 39......tiles total. REMEMBER, in all of this I assumed that your dimension was not 102 ft, but 10ft and 2 in. You might possible get by with 38, depending if there is no pattern and no borders to worry about. Hope this is not too confusing. FE

Q: When the stick on tiles have come loose you get ready to re-glue them. What exactly do you clean the cement under neath them or do you just scrape it clean?: Mineral spirits will dissolve most adhesives but sometimes you may need xylene or denatured alcohol. Using two sided tape, the good kind that is not cheap at home centers that is made for outdoor carpet for example should work better than most things to stick them down.

Q: I am tiling my kitchen and My house was a prefab. and OLD. The plywood used was 1/2 (I measured it). what thickness of backboard/cement board should I use for under the tile and on top of the plywood? I was thinking 1/2 backerboard/cement board so there is 1 of subfloor under the tile. Do you think this is enough? Also, I am tiling around my cabinets, what do I do about the dishwasher? Do I tile around it? If I tile under it, it won‘t fit in the spot then. I was going to tile around it... I do have room to tile under the fridge though. There is space above.: I am a tile repairman specialist. Use 1/2 thick backer board. the trick is that you install it with the cement screws that are made for that backer board. Never use dry wall screws. Remove the stove and refrigerator and tile by those areas. Do not tile under the dish washer, you may not be able to remove it at a later date. Tile up to the dish washer's removal panel, don't go pass it. Use a modified thinset mortar to tile your kitchen floor because of the high traffic. Glue will not support the floor and your tiles may crack in time.

Q: I only have a couple of tiles in my shower to grout. I bought some pre-mixed tile grout from Home Depot. It says on the back NOT FOR USE IN SHOWER OR UNDERWATER. I called home depot and they said it would work if I were to seal it. As many know sealer is very expensive and I‘m only doing a couple of tiles that will be exposed to water. Do I have to seal this? I understand there exist grout with sealer already inside.....: Sealer, sealer, sealer... It's like the magic solution for everything now. The most important thing about what you are doing is the adhesive for the tile. Make sure it can handle the water. And spread it thick... let the tile squeeze it out and wipe out the excess. You cannot have air bubbles under the tile. The steam will expand the air in that bubble (1,000 times it's cold volume) and pop the tiles. As for grouting between the joints: consider using caulk instead. You can specially order (at the hardware store) tinted and colored caulks. In a shower, there is no better solution. I bought a grout remover tool and took out the grout in my tile shower then installed a light sand colored caulk 15 years ago. I never sealed the glazed tile and it still looks good.

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