• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXAW001 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXAW001 System 2
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXAW001

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXAW001

Ref Price:
$6.15 - 6.25 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1209.6
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAXAW001 is a very popular color in the present market. Just like other models, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its stone like surface, being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Full Polished Porcelain Tile, high glossy

   Grade AAA available only

  Strict quality control system on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Much more competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

  Comprehensive marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team available for the whole order operation process

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 90 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, , 35KgS/Ctn, 36 Ctns/Pallet, 780 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1123.2 m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 56Kgs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 500 Ctns/20’Fcl, 960 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXAW001

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 CMAXAW001

 

FAQ

 

1.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

 

2.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

3.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

Q: 10x7 ft room (70 square ft)I already took up the linoleum which was hard to do and there is some linoleum backing on most of the floor I cant get up that they will removethey will lay something on the floor that will prevent the tile from crackinggluing down the tile and grouting and sealing itI am in the southgrand total $1000.00 labor labor and materials is $15.00 a square ft
Seems a little excessive, $900 for laying 70 tiles, even taking away the cost of the plywood, hopefully they'll lay in order to level surface,Or if Concrete, The use of a Self-levelling Compound is a Must ! *Ask if they will use a self-levelling compound to 'seal ' the floor of course, make it a level surface on which to lay the tiles. If corners are cut, (no pun intended) Then there is a good chance of the grout cracking in the not too distant future, and so allowing water to ingress itself under the tile-adhesive and the tile itself, leading to a Very expensive mistake. (Hth). .
Q: The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!
This is going to be messy. Usually the tiles will break when removing them, if they were properly installed in the first place. Some tile may not break but the mastic will stick to either the tile or backer board. The mastic must be scraped off. Over all it would be simpler to just demo the old tile and start over.
Q: I clean a church and all the cleaners I have tried on the tile floor, leaving it streaky.. Does anyone know of anything that would work? Thanks!
Look okorder . Everything you need to know about preserving and cleaning tile is located at this website.
Q: My husband and I are going to redo a very small, four by four, half bath over Thanksgiving weekend. I‘ve picked up bits and pieces of advice about installing the marble floor tiles I‘ve bought, but I want to make sure I have the right advice before starting this or buying anything:Tile must be sealed both before and after installing, and the best sealer is Sealers Choice Gold. This will seal both the tile and the grout. Preinstall sealing should be done after cutting, not before. Do the tile edges need to be sealed as well or only the tops?Only white modified thinset should be used (brand recommendations?)Non-sanded grout should be used, and 1/8 inch spacing is acceptable for 12x12 tiles.Tiles should be wrapped before cutting to avoid breakage? I‘ve never seen this recommended before, but I‘ve also never installed marble.Thanks so much!
Marble tile floors have been around for centuries. Even today, in an age of much simpler and less expensive options, marble remains synonymous with elegance and class. Installing marble is more complicated than installing ceramic or other types of tiles because the marble can't be cut on a standard tile cutter, instead needing a wet saw. Also, since the tiles are straight-cut in their manufacture, the tile surfaces have to be completely even with one another.
Q: Figure, I was in the indoor shoot, only two lights 600W1200w, brick surface is not bright matt antique tiles, moved to remove the two sides still have, I do not want to shoot good-looking, is to accurately accurate design printing of. Is there any way? Do you have to be back? Polar mirror ok? By the way, what kind of high-reflective polished tiles to shoot?
As long as the light source and the tiles are not at right angles, most of the light will not be reflected back, it will not form a large glare. Simply put, that is, when the light to play side light.
Q: Do you have to rough up the old flooring ?
I tile, every day of my life, and while I'm not at all a fan of vinyl tile, you didn't state PEEL and STICK. Obviously the adhesives on Peel and Stick are inferior and as answer 1 suggests the tile can creep on any substrate. You also don't state any texture on the current tile, certainly to float anything over it is no less a task and challenge as it would be to remove the tile. For one thing a peel and stick needs almost a glass like finish for its inferior adhesive to be even modestly effective. That would relate to roughing up as well. Then there is the issue of how you might define Rough Up? I offer my opinion/ s First of all if it's peel and stick, I'd not bother, but if I bothered, my usual; course of action is a water based contact cement on both the substrate and the bottom side of the tile. That method can be used on non adhesive backed tile as well, but there are many viable/valid tile mastics on the market. A final note, no matter what tile or method you choose. DO NOT use the existing tiles as a guide to install new. If you choose to floor over though I cannot imagine doing so, you will be better served to displace seaming the new tile, (offset) at the seams, from the existing. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
Q: Looking to install ceramic tile over concrete basement slab, 12x12 or 13x13 tiles. Main question is how perfectly level/flat does the concrete need to be. If I put a tile down and there is some minor rocking is that no good or will the thinset adhesive take care of that.
Any rocking means the tile is hitting either a high spot or there is a low spot. Low spots can be dealt with the thin set. As long as its less than a 1/4. High spots usually needs to be ground down flat. So to answer your question , for ease of installation and the prevention of cracked tiles at a later date, floors need to be as flat as possible. If you have minor rocking with no thin set down, in some cases a larger sized trowel will do the trick. Each case is different and has to be dealt with differently. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: i want to tile my house, i also want to pay less than a dollar per square foot for the materials. on top of that i want 16 tile... i know these deal exhist but i dont know where to look... please help
I would try a large tile supplier like Dal-Tile or VCT tile. Depending on the size of your project they offer great deals on discontinued tile. I just re-tile 2000SF with 20 x 20 tiles from Dal-Tile and picked it up for $.40 a SF. Since the tile is discontinued be sure to get an extra box or two for future repairs.
Q: I recently bought a home with old fashioned pink and blue tile, is there an inexpensive way to make it look better? Help.....
Surprisingly, if you go to Lowes or Home Depot and look in the tile section, it really isn't that expensive to put down new tile. There is a tool to remove the grout from the old tile so that you can pry the old tile up. After that, the installation isn't difficult. I would go that route as opposed to trying to doctor old tile. Good luck!
Q: I‘m looking to replace a ceramic tile floor in my kitchen with a different style ceramic tile. The contractor says I have two options. He can either lay the new ceramic tile on the old, which will be cheaper than bringing up the old tile but then the floor will be raised 1 to 1 1/2 above current level. Or, he can take up the old ceramic tile but then he‘d have to remove the old layer of plywood and put down a new layer, which will be more labor-intensive and expensive. Is there any other issues regarding these two scenarios that I should take into account?
Best to rip it out and start new. And start with a new sub floor made for and the proper thickness for tile.. NEVER, EVER use a thin 1/4 luan or ply wood.. This is totally inadequate for tile and goes against all tile hand book guides such as the ATC and TCA guide book.Minimum substrate thickness for tile is 1 1/4 not the 1 as suggested.Thus you must use 1/2 board or backer board ( properly installed) to meet minimum standards for stability for tile.There are other methods to install but this is very common way. Going over the old with new tile is a possible option but tile setter need to know what their doing. Thus raising floor only thickness of the tile and thin set. I d never go over it raising it that much. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

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