Electro Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh System 1

Electro Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:	Hebei China (Mainland)	Wire Gauge:	0.5mm-6mm	Model Number:	sx-62
Type:	Welded Mesh	Application:	Fence Mesh	Hole Shape:	Hexagonal
Aperture:	6080 80100 100*120	Material:	Galvanized Iron Wire

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	1.With plastic weaving bags outside 2.With wooden pallet cloth 3.According to customer's request
Delivery Detail:	30 days after receive the deposit

Specifications

hexagonal wire mesh
1>material: galvanized or plastic-coated wire
2>Mesh: 3/8" -4"
3>hole shape:hexagon
4>Length: 5-30m

Hexagonal wire mesh

Hexagonal wire mesh is also known by the name of chicken mesh.
Wire materials: Hexagonal wire mesh is manufactured in galvanized iron or PVC coated wire.
Application: Hexagonal wire mesh with its good corrosion resistance and oxidation resistance, serves well as strengthening, protection and temperature keeping materials in the form of mesh container, stone cage, isolation wall, boiler cover or poultry fence in construction, chemical, breeding, garden and food processing industries.

Hex netting welded mesh(Galvanized before wearing)
Spacing(mm)		Dia	Width(mm)		Length
41		1.40mm	450/600/1066		50m
31		18g/19g	900/1050/1200		50m
50		18g/19g	900/1050/1200		50m
Hex netting welded mesh(Galvanized after wearing)
Spacing (mm)	Diameter			Width (mm)		Length
13	0.7mm/0.9mm/1.0mm			900/2000		5m/10m/50m
13	18g/19g/20g/22g/23g			600/900/1200/1800		5m/10m/25m/50m
19	0.7mm/0.9mm/1.0mm			900/2000		5m/10m/50m
25	0.7mm/0.9mm/1.0mm			900/2000		5m/10m/50m
25	18g/19g/20g/22g/23g			600/900/1200/1800		5m/10m/25m/50m
31	18g/19g/20g/22g/23g			600/900/1200/1800		5m/10m/25m/50m
50	0.7mm/0.9mm/1.0mm			900/2000		5m/10m/50m
50	18g/19g/20g/22g/23g			600/900/1200/1800		5m/10m/25m/50m
75	0.7mm/0.9mm/1.0mm			900/2000		5m/10m/50m

Q:I bought a new light that holds two light bulbs for my bathroom and quickly took off the old light. I then noticed that wall had three wires coming from it, a black, red, and white. The light however has four wires coming from it, 2 whites and 2 blacks. How do i wire this properly so both light bulbs can be turned on and off simultaneously?: Since you have a black, red, and white wire coming out of the wall, this tells me you have a 3-way switch (meaning the light can be controlled by two different switches, correct?) If you only have one switch operating this light, then one of the wires may be (against building code rules) used as 'ground'. If only one switch is used with the light, then you'll need to switch the breaker off, then pull out the switch and see if a wire is attached to the green screw (ground). Black wire: Hot Red wire: Hot (three way circuit) White: Neutral Green or bare copper: ground

Q:How does this work? Does the missile drag a wire?: This Site Might Help You. RE: Wire guided missile? How does this work? Does the missile drag a wire?

Q:I need help installing a Pioneer DEH-P3700MP in a Saturn S Series 2001, the wiring harness does not fit and need to know how to connect the wires. Which wires go to what on the Saturn?: Just about any car audio shop will have an adaptor that will fit. they do not usually cost more than 10 dollars, Walmarts, bestbuy, all have them.

Q:Hello,I'm trying to replace my old ceiling fan with a new one but i can't seem to figure out the wiring.I have three wires coming out of the ceiling: 1) Two white ones that were connected together when the old ceiling fan was installed2) A grey wireI have four wires in the new fan:1) Black2) Black and White (would connect with the black based on the instructions)3) Green Grounding4) WhiteCan you help me figure out the connections. Thanks!: I wish contractors followed the wiring / building codes. The white wires are neutral wires that return the circuit back to the panel. Grey? where in the world did that come from BUT I have to assume that it's the hot wire from the panel. Black black with the white tracer to your grey wire. White to the white if at all possiable put a screw in the box with the green wire or at least wrap it around the screw from the horseshoe that you are putting in the box. Be sure that the switch is off. If it's wired properly there will be no hot wire in the ceiling box. The hot is open at the switch. That's why the light doesn't turn on. Follow me?

Q:i got this switch with numbers 1 , 2, 3, and 4 on it and 4 wires red, green, and two black. Which wires go to which number?: Well it is defintely a 3 way switch. The fourth (green) wire being the ground. I can't tell you by the numbers, but I can tell you by the screws which wire goes where. If it does not apply to your switch you may need to go get a new one. They are inexpensive. The green, ground wire goes to the screw that is usually attached to the arms ( metal extentions that hold against the sheet rock. Now you need to find the red and black wire that are together. Look inside the box where the wires come in and you should be able to tell if the red and black are in the same sheathing. These are your travelers. The travelers need to go on the two screws that are across from eachother. One goes on the right side and one goes on the left. Does not matter which side. The last black wire, depending on which of the two 3 ways you are at is either your power or your light leg (wire going to your light). This wire goes on the last screw. Hope this was helpful.

Q:there is different gauge wire sizes in the power/ground and speaker wire? which is better? what is the difference? buy ground power and speaker wire the same gauge?: the 4 gauge is twice as thick as the 8 gauge.and the speaker wire should be speaker wire not 4 or 8 gauge wire.and 4 gauge is the way to go for power and ground off your amplifier.you can buy heavier speaker wire for your sub woofers from any car audio dealer by the foot.whatever thickness wire you use to power your amplifier is the thickness you use to ground it.and ground your amplifier as close to the amplifier as possible to a clean steel area with a self tapping screw and a o ring clip on the ground wire.both power and ground should be the same thickness.the speaker wire is up to you.

Q:The application is a bathroom light and exhaust fan combination. The fixtures wires are thiner than the supply wires. Should I wrap the thinner wire around the thicker wire or should I wrap them equally around each other? Then can I put a drop of solder on before I put the wire nut. Or is solder not a good idea?: If you are using a good grade of wire nut ( The inside of the wire nut is metal) soldering isn't necessary....It won't hurt anything but not necessary....Thomas Betts makes a good wirenut

Q:I understand how to wire sprinkler valves in theory. But in practice, how is it done. For instance, starting at the last valves in the run, the common wire is attached, but in a 7-strand wire, you may only use 3 colored wires or so. What do you do with the unused wires? Just leave them dangling? Cap them off with a grease cap? Then, as you arrive at the next set of valves, do you cut the entire strand and splice, or just cut out the individual colored wires that you need to wire those valves?: well if you have a few extra strands in the cable, they may be used in the future if you add on to the sprinkler system with more valves. or to help troubleshoot wiring problems. no need to cap the unused wires, just cut them and leave them our company leaves enough of the wire in the valve box, to be able to pull out the connection for service. make sure you leave enough wire to service the valves and their connections easlily.. we then wrap the unused cables around the used wires and the connections. keeps the valve box nice and neat, and ready to be serviced if needed. the next set of valves, the best way is to cut the whole cable and splice them back. it is just easier. again, make sure you leave a good bit of wire in the box so you can service it easily. i work on sprinkler systems for a living. one pet peeve is when a connection is not in the valve box, but inthe ground around it, b/c some one cut the wire too short.then i will have to dig up the connnections and repair them, instead of just doing it through the valve box without messing up the customer's yard. and by the way, grease caps arent the best way of sealing wire connections. the best way for irrigation is with the orange wire nuts, and seal them with Dri-Splice. from my dad's over 20 years of expericence and my last few years, this is the best way. good luck and hope this helps.

Q:How can I repair an enamel coated headphone wire? In other words, how can an enamel coated wire be reconnected; i.e. how is the enamel coating stripped off, and what can I use to recoat it so that it won't short?: Strip off the coating to expose bare metal where you would to slice (reconnect) new wires. Twist them or soldier them together. The wires will not short unless they come in contact with electricity-conducting materials, including human flesh. Hardware stores sells paint just for wires, but you don't have to go such extremes. Just put some tape it or cover it with any other non-conductive materials.

Q:I removed my old door chime/bell a few years ago and replaced it with a wireless one. That one quit working and now I am attempting to install a new wired one again. The only problem is, when I removed my old one way back, I failed to label the existing wires to where they go. I have two wires coming out of my wall mount, one white, one brown and the both have a white and red wire sticking out of them. I am not sure which one/ones will connect to the FRONT and TRANS posts on my new chime. I don't have a rear door bell button so that is not a problem. Which wire goes to the FRONT and TRANS and do I cap off any of the 4 wires? My installation instructions don't cover the mindless mistake of not having the wires labled.: If your old transformer is still working connecting the wires up wrong will burn it out in an instant. I have been there. The safest thing to do is locate your transformer and disconnect all the wires. Take the doorbell off and disconnect the wires. And then you have the chime off as well. Then use a continuity tester (has a battery and lights up or buzzes when the circuit is complete) and find out which wire goes where. You might have to string a temporary wire through the house to complete the circuit from downstairs to upstairs. Once you know which wire goes where you will be connecting a wire from one end of the transformer to the button a line from the button to the chime and a line from the chime to the transformer (a series circuit.) A voltmeter will tell you if the transformer is already burnt out. If you get a new transformer make sure you get one that matches the voltage requirement of the chimes (usually 16 volts.)

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