• Cu/PVC   Flexible Copper Conductor  PVC Insulated Eletric Wire 450/750V BVR 1.0 1.5 2.5   4.0 System 1
  • Cu/PVC   Flexible Copper Conductor  PVC Insulated Eletric Wire 450/750V BVR 1.0 1.5 2.5   4.0 System 2
  • Cu/PVC   Flexible Copper Conductor  PVC Insulated Eletric Wire 450/750V BVR 1.0 1.5 2.5   4.0 System 3
Cu/PVC   Flexible Copper Conductor  PVC Insulated Eletric Wire 450/750V BVR 1.0 1.5 2.5   4.0

Cu/PVC Flexible Copper Conductor PVC Insulated Eletric Wire 450/750V BVR 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 reel
Supply Capability:
10000 reel/month

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BVR Cu/PVC  JB/T8734

Conductor

Plain  annealedcopper, Class 2 stranded circular or compacted


Insulation

Polyvinyl chloride(PVC)

Compound type C


Insulation color:

Green, yellow/green, red, yellow, blue,


Temperature rating

Maximum 70ºC


Rated voltage

450/750 V


Application

Suitable for power installations, household appliances,instrumentation and communication devices

a. Use as home appliance wiring cable, building wire
b. Use as electrical and electronic equipment internal connecting wire
c. Use as lighting wire
d. House wiring cable


TypeNo. of CoresCorss Area ( mm2)NO.of wire   & diameterInsulation thickness mmOuter diameter mmWeight kg/km
BV
    Cu/PVC -Solid
111/1.130.7
15.73
11.51/1.380.7
22.12
12.51/1.780.8
32.75
141/2.250.8
48.73
161/2.760.8
69.15
BVR
    Cu/PVC-Strand
117/0.430.7
16.9
11.57/0.520.7
22.71
12.519/0.410.8
34.21
1419/0.520.8
49
1619/0.630.8
70.9
RVV
    Cu/PVC/PVC -Flexible
2132/0.20.7
52.3
21.548/0.20.7
70.45
22.578/0.20.8
103.75
24127/0.20.8
147.2
3132/0.20.7
96.45
31.548/0.20.7
133.73
32.578/0.20.8
180.63
RVS
    Cu/PVC/ -Flexible
20.7537/0.160.7
29.73
2132/0.20.7
36.8
21.548/0.20.7
47.45
22.578/0.20.8
70.25




Cu/PVC   Flexible Copper Conductor  PVC Insulated Eletric Wire 450/750V BVR 1.0 1.5 2.5   4.0







Q: I have a light switch that controls an outlet. Plugged into the outlet is a light for the room. I'm going to to install a wall light that will only work off the switch. So how do I make the switch only work the light and have the outlet work all the time? How can I wire this correctly?
Though this is a simple problem, it's not something that you should just jump into without any experience; you could kill yourself, if you're not careful.
Q: I am also concerned that the electrical wires have been stapled down with metal staples, can the heat burn through the wire insulation and short out the wires? Last year I was in the attic on a hot day and the wires were almost too hot to touch. I've installed ventilation this year and I want to find a target temp, it's common for the temperature outside to be in the 90s where I live.
The lowest temperature that can due damage is 350 degrees with foam insulation. You have to go up to 400 to take out the wires. At those temperatures, the house is on fire.
Q: Coming from my electrical box I have a white wire and a dark grey wire and coming from my water heater I have a red wire and a black wire. What colors go with what? Thank you in advance!
You will need to wire it with 220v. The white, if properly wired, is, as previously noted, is neutral, and is not the correct wire to use. Start with another wire from the opposite leg in your panel that the dark grey is hooked up to. If you look at your panel, you will find two large black wires coming into the panel from the meter, hooking up to each buss. You will have to look at your diagram on the back of the panel cover to see if they alternate, or continue in one row. Use a wire from each leg to create a total of 220v going to the hot water tank and hook one of these to the red, and the other to the blackA volt meter would be the best tool to verify. Also, If the grey wire is 14 gage, it is too small, and should be increased to either #10, or #12 wire. #10 is good for 30 amps, and #12 for 20.Not sure of your amperagemaybe someone else can tell.
Q: I have an electrical outlet in my basement family room on a wall made with drywall. I want to 'flip' the box so that it is facing the furnace room. There's no drywall on that side, so I have access to the box and the stud it's nailed to. I just want to cut the power, (check again that the power is off!) pull the nails out, turn the box 180 degrees and renail to the stud. I've got enough slack in the wires.Can I do that?
I was gonna say sure BUT THEN I AM THINKING to do that you have to undo the wiring to flip it and retighten the nuts back on the same wires. Meaning a pair of pliers is your friend here.if the wires are twisted together and then nutted. Which is a great big hassle. I would be tempted more to draw the power from another outlet in the furnace room and drill a bunch of holes in the 2x4s and run a line from that outlet to the other. or even stealing power from the light and string it down(however in that case the outlet may not work unless the light switch is ON (not the best option but doable and safe) Or, if you can run a separate breaker in the fuse box just for that wire. Or if that outlet is used very little in the family room just run another wire out connected with larger nuts as you are adding another wire to each line and put the box where you want. comfort wise for plugging things in. The only reason all the plugs are 12 inches off the ground is because that is how long the electricians hammer was when he roughed in the boxes.
Q: I am putting all my lighting on a single circuit, and have a question. The main feed from the panel to the lights first goes to a double gang switch, one switch controls the lights on half of the main room in the basement, the other controls the lights in the other half of the main room in the basement. Then I need the main feed to continue to three other switches in three other rooms in the basement. Do I just wire nut the black wired and wire nut the white wires, and continue running to the next switch. So if that is the case, then am I correct in saying that in the double gang switch I will have one wire nut with the ground wires, one wire nut with 4 black wires, and one wire nut with 4 white wires? Please help with this matter, I want to do this correct, so my house doesn't burn down.By the way I am using 14/2 wire.
You are correct in the way you described your circuit and what you want to do. Like the other person mentioned, make sure you tap off the black wire before the existing switches and not after. You are correct, all the blacks in a wire nut, all the whites in another, and all the grounds in another. The other thing to consider is overloading the circuit. Figure on using 12 amps maximum out of your 15 amp circuit. That is a total of 1440 watts worth of lights. About 14, 100 watt incandescent bulbs. As long as your #14 wire is protected with a 15 amp circuit breaker, your connections are tight, and all the connections are in boxes, you won't burn the house down. Email if you need more advice.
Q: Please guess a riddle: a beautiful ride on the wire. (Hit a plant) Rural visible
FireWire is red, the blue line is blue. Ground is yellow and green. Three-phase socket, usually on the left and right to the right fire. Usually we will phase the current phase difference of 120 degrees wire called FireWire. Three-phase power of the three tail together called "zero line". The ground wire is the line connecting the earth to the earth.
Q: I obviously know that one is one and one is the other, but if you were on the street and saw a utility pole. How could You distinguish one to the other?
Power lines don't have insulation (the black plastic on the other wires) until it's getting attached to your house.
Q: I built a 30x30 workshop and have a few electrical questions.What amp size service panel will I need?Will have 8 120v receptacles and do they all need separate 20 amp breakers with #12 wire?Will have 2 240v receptacles, air compressor and a stick welder, what size wire and circuit breakers for those two components?Will have 8 fluorescent lights with 54w bulbs, How many lights can be on the same 15amp circuit with #14 wire?
I would put the fluorescent lamps on two separate circuits. The reason is that you will still have lighting if you have to do maintenance on one of the fixtures. I would also put the 8 120vac outlets on two separate circuits. Your air compressor should be on a 40 amp circuit. Your welder is on a 100 amp circuit from a sub-panel. It's highly unlikely you'll use the compressor at the same time you would be using the air compressor. Both are intermittent duty. From your limited info, I would go for a 150 amp service.
Q: Is there any requirement that the cable will be placed in the wireway?
Can be used to install a WIN7 will be very cool up.
Q: For example if I put a screw in the wall and it goes through an electrical wire will that screw cause electrical leaks. Another example is everytyhing in house was unplugged and shut off and power meter was still running, what could be the cause?
yes and no, when it comes to comms gear between wired handsets, you can have a pull off or a leak if the wire gets wet, this happens with the emf field which is generated by flow of electrons. when you pull on the emf, you create an amperage draw, which can result in a leak. in a house, you have a lot of appliances that draw a small ammount even when off.if its an older meter, they run off detecting emf through magnets, an old trick was to put a magnet against the ones that spin and watch it slow down, or even reverse if the magnet is strong enough since it is providing an emf. and the screw on the wall will not cause a leak in itself, unless it hits a grounded object to make a return path. the insulation on wire is not like a pipe for water or gas, it does not prevent electricity in a low voltage setting( low voltage is 600 volts or lower) from escaping, it prevents it from hitting anything to ground out. in high voltage there is no insulation, because it will not stop the emf field. when these wires get wet they hum due to creating decently unnatural waves on the electromagnetic spectrum and cause the air to vibrate around it, this is also a slight drain. transfomers also hum due to the fact they are basically an emf generator and an emf catcher, with the catcher pulling whatever amperage is needed out of it to the facility it powers

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