Constantan-type with high strength a quality

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100000 m

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m/month

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Continuous use up to
...1300F (704C)
Single Exposure up to
...1600F (871C)
Good Moisture, Chemical
...And Abrasion Resistance
High Temperature Stability

Conductor: Solid or stranded thermocouple wire per
ASTM E230 & ANSI MC96.1

Insulation: Braided fiberglass with high
Temperature impregnation*
(24 to 30 AWG Served Glass)

Construction: Parallel conductors

Jacket: Braided fiberglass with high
Temperature impregnation*

Operating temperature: +1300F (+704C) continuous
+1600F (+871C) single exposure

Limits of error: Conforms to ASTM E230, IEC 584
And ANSI MC 96.1

Shanghai Tankii Alloy Material Co., Ltd.

Q:explain to me with drawings 'n steps to take: In the U.S., you will likely need a professional (electrical) engineer to do any plans. He will likely be working with similar mechanical and plumbing people, and the architect. His work will also be affected by local codes and standards. Get the preliminary plans from the architect. Get size of building and estimate volts and amps needed. Confirm with local utility and tell HVAC people (mechanical engineers) so they can pick out systems that use the voltage. Figure out how much floor space you can cover with a 200A panel (or whatever size you plan to use). Put panels in the middle of each space that large. Add outlets, switches, lighting, and feeds to HVAC. Put in a main distribution panel to feed the sub-panels and check for breaker sizes, wire sizes, etc. Draw a 'panel diagram'. Check the final mechanical equipment schedule to be sure voltages and power use all match. Get the EE to stamp and seal. Deliver drawings.

Q:If electrical wires were built underground then there would never be any outages from storms. I'm sure they thought of this and there's a reason why, I just wanna kno what's the reason?: Lol. They are underground in every country in the world except for the US. And maybe some very remote villages somewhere in Africa

Q:Electrical wire sheathing should NOT project more than about 1 inch into the--plumbing line-floor joist-ground or -electric panel: electric panel

Q:can we replaced it with the normal plastic insulated wire?: Only old appliances did this, and they probably had a lot of a now banned substance, asbestos, in them to handle the heat.

Q:I am hooking up a 30 amp rv outlet to connect my trailer to for electric service. I have to use a 10/3 with ground wire. I have black, red, white and bare. I use the white for common, the blacke for hot. The question I have is, of the red and bare wire which one goes to the ground connection on the outlet and which one goes to ground in the outlet box and service panel. I have no problem getting it to be safe, I just do not know which one is used for ground at the plug when there are four wires and one is red, not green. Thanks: The 10/3 you have is colour coded for 220VAC service. Also red, black, white wires tend to be used for 110VAC 3-way switching circuits, this kind of as lighting. For 220VAC, generally the crimson is hot, the black is hot, the white is neutral and the bare is ground. For switching circuits, the black is hot, the crimson is switched hot, the white is neutral, the bare is ground. If you tend to be wanting 110VAC, I woud get 10/3 wire that is colour coded for 110VAC, black, white, eco-friendly and bare. This will eliminate each errors. You are able to use each colors you want as lengthy as you know what they tend to be and exactly where they go electrically. Use the black for hot, the white for neutral, the bare for floor and cap-off the red. If your outlet is 3 pronged and has a floor screw, you are able to use the crimson for the floor prong (red substituting the for the eco-friendly wire) , and the bare for the floor screw. If there is no floor screw, eliminate the bare wire. If you modify the colors, becareful simply because it will not be to each code.

Q:HiI had a new electrical service put in, they connected the new wires to the old wire from the pole, My question is can you touch one wire at a time without getting zapped, (100 amp) the service wires coming from the poles to the meter.Because when they changed my service he striped the old wires and connected the new wires to the old wires.thank you: No you can't touch the bare wires, They must have had the supply line made safe to do that work. They will often connect a temporary earth wire onto each wire in case the power is switched back on by mistake. 0.001amps can kill by making your heart stop, holding onto a live100 amp line could burn you very badly too. It is possible to do live work with stringent precautions, but it is only done in a few special cases.

Q:I just got a sugar glider and it likes to climb the various electrical wires around my apartment. What are the odds of it chewing through the wires and killing itself?: rodents like to chew.

Q:I would like to know what the standards are for Big Fat power leads being exposed, isn't that an OSHA hazard? What are all the volts, that need to be covered by a floor wire covers, so nobody will trip in them. Anyone know about this any helpful information regarding wiring safty on the job? Can a place be shut down for employee safty reasons? What are the major voltages in America? Honest and non- rude opinions Please Thank You: Yupand I got a whole slew of hamsters to run my vehicle. Doesn't go too fast but it still gets me from point A to point B, which is usually just a couple miles. Water and hamster food is a heLL of a lot cheaper than petrol. No emissions other than, well, droppings. I wonder if that stuff is good fertilizer?

Q:I will be installing spray in foam in the wall cavities and am wondering if I should have all of the wiring replaced (electrical outlets and the such) before. I've read it's difficult to replace wiring once the foam has become rigid. My fear is that a wire will short and the electrical outlet will become useless (due to previously stated problem). Any information is greatly appreciated.: do you think before you speak. the house was built in 1975 it should have insulation in the walls already.how are you going to get that out. in 1975 they used romex wire and that will last longer than 100 years some thing smells here, are you a troll.

Q:I have two power acoustic 12sthey are 1600 to 1800 wattsI have a 1 ohm stable 3000 watt monoblock amp pushing them.It really bogs my lights down.what's the benefits of using a extra battery vs a capacitor.I have a spare battery I could use and also a capacitorand whichever is more beneficial can you explain how to wire it. What kinds of performance gain will I get out of both as far as base wise.: The capacitor would be a better way to go. Another battery would make you have to upgrade your alternator also. So go with the capacitor. Run a 0 gauge wire from your battery to a distribution block 0 gauge in 2 4 gauges out one to the amp and one to the capacitor then ground the capacitor. It will store the unused power and help your battery out. Hope this helps.

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