• Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22 System 1
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22 System 2
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22 System 3
Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q:I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
mold needs moisture to start/grow. find out why there's moisture and fix that first. Just creating more air flow won't stop the mold from growing and it won't necessarily make the air quality better if mold is growing in the walls. since you said it was roof insulation, (I'm gonna assume you meant attic) check the roof for leaks. I wouldn't think you'd have to get rid of all the insulation but I'd definately get rid of anything moldy. Blown in isulation is fairly cheap to replace. Lowe's sells a mold test kit, not sure how it works but I saw them yesterday when I was in there. Might be worth looking into getting one.
Q:How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?
The US Dept of Energy provides online calculators to answer your question based on your zip code.
Q:roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.
House Owner, Land Lord. If you are the house owner, contact the people who did the work on your roof, find out what your warranty is.
Q:I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.
Q:In a house, it looks like an addition, that now is the kitchen , it feels HOT, it doesn't seem to have a very good insulation on the roof at all, the ceiling is already low, so, what can be done on the outside to give it more insulation?, i don't care what it is i just want to give it a GOOD insulation, the roof is flat and to shingles. Any IDEAS? , thanks!
So there is no access above the ceiling, like a crawl space? If you cannot get above the ceiling to look then it will be difficult to determine, what you have or don't have up there. You may want to consult an insulation company for help. They may have ideas to blow in additional insulation. The spray foam that is on the link left by the other person is a foam sprayed on the roof decking and rafters when you have complete access to them. The person below me brings up another point, can you add any soffet vents to help with air flow?
Q:Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
. Insulation does a bunch of things; it hinders heat transfer and also Noise transfer. If the pitter-patter of rain doesn't bother you, you're ok. This tile is popular in California where the temperature is often mild. Of course people living in the Sierra Nevada Mts. wouldn't agree, but installation might NOT be necessary for you. Stick a 'remote thermometer' up there to monitor the temp. See the comfortHouse link below >>> .
Q:do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
I have never experienced a problem with heat tape. as long as it is in good shape and you have it plugged into a GFI, I personally wouldn't worry about it to much at all. your roof gets hotter in the summer with the sun beating on it then the heat tape can create. so it starting a fire would be unlikely. the lack of insulation in that area is compounding your problem. so get that taking care of if you can. heat tape is melting snow and ice, melting snow and ice makes ice cycles. the heat tape in the gutter will help to keep the gutters clear allowing the water to flow down the spout so in theory it should not create as many ice cycles as without the tape. again the lack of insulation is allowing more snow to melt from heat loss through the roof. hope this helped, good luck
Q:we replacing our torched down rubber roof and my contractor said we need to install a 1 inch rigid insulation..is the insulation needed?
on the outside, under the rubber? That's crazy. Don't go for it.
Q:weather stripping/ foam strip?
I'm assuming your talking about a ridge cap normally you would seal it in with tar or polyurethane caulk and put your shingles over it

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