Double Side Aluminium Foil Scrim Kraft Lamination Sheet for Polystyrene Roofing Insulation Prices
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- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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1 Description:
DFC1001 double sided reflective laminate aluminum foil serves as thermal insulation and sharking membrane underneath roof and wall cladding. Combined with bulk insulation, form very effective thermal barrier and excellent vapor barrier for air conditioning ducting and preformed bulk insulation section for hot and chilled water pipes.
2. Benefit:
Double-sided insulation is more effective and durable compared to the single-sided insulation, suit to insulate radiation caused by equipment like transformer signal station, it also be used for roof, wall and building insulation and also could be applied as facing onto rock wool, glass wool, plain slab, ceiling board, ducting air conditioning, or pipe section.
3. Application:
It could be used as reflection, packing paper, moisture proof, radiant barrier and easy to fold as your need.
1. As a heat insulation materials in car, train, roof and wall, also been attached to glass wool blanket, rock wool board, mineral wool for get better performance.
2. A laminated thermal insulation sheeting. for covering ducts and pipes wrapped up by a thermal insulator such as glass wool and rock wool, PU foam and other insulation to protect them against vapor moisture in order to work more effectively.
3. As a sound absorber in KTV room, cinema, opera house, factory and other building.(only indicates 7160P, 7150P)
4. Package of industrial products and other place that you want to use.
4. Dimension/Size
(1) Roll width: 1000mm, 1200mm and 1250mm
(2) Roll Length: 50m, 100m, 200m, 500m, 1000m, or upon request.
(3) Core I. D.: 3"(76mm+/-1)
- Q: the noise when it rains is very loud. can I place an insulation material under the polycarbonate roof to reduce noise? Thanks
- Sure, depending on the roof space anyway.
- Q: I would like to find foam type tiles for my roof of decking, insulation?
- www.okorder I checked the website I posted by searching 'foam roofing' on google. This link is what I found but there are others... Google it to find your best deal. I think I will spray this stuff under my pier and beam home just to insulate. Thanks for the tip! I can buy this product, apply it myself and cut the cost down to 1/3 or more.
- Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
- Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.
- Q: roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.
- Only you. 8 years is long past any roofer's warranty
- Q: Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?
- should work, heat pumps pull the heat out of the air,
- Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
- The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
- Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
- We don't know what kind of climate you are in - or the age/construction of the dwelling.......but by standards here, 4 degrees heat loss in 4 hours is insignificant... For comparison.....we have a two-story, 1800 sq ft modern home in Ohio: the windows are triple-glazed (but there are a lot of them)......the walls have fiberglass bats under 1 inch cedar siding.......our ceilings are acoustical tile over plasterboard with about 2 feet of blown-in fiberglass insulation above them. We have a new, Energy Star gas furnace . . . . in cold weather it cycles on&off at least 10 times an hour.....I am sure that if we were to turn it off, the temps would drop more than 5 degrees per HOUR......gas bills about $250 a month in winter. You are fortunate to have so little heat loss in yours.......while the "sawdust looking" insulation doesn't sound very cutting-edge, I can't imagine anything would reduce the heat loss and be cost-effective. If buildings didn't cool-off in cold weather, we'd just heat rocks in the sun and bring them inside !!!!!!!
- Q: If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
- if the garage is heated do it all the cost of the insulation vs the cost of heat today is outrageous doing it now will save a ton later
- Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
- You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.
- Q: We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)
- The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.
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Double Side Aluminium Foil Scrim Kraft Lamination Sheet for Polystyrene Roofing Insulation Prices
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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