Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 12
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Bubble Insulation Benefits:
Reflects 96% of radiant heat
Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic
Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install
Durable and lightweight
Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate
Vapor and radon retarder
Easy to cut and install
Permanent and maintenance-free
Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents
Does not support the growth of mold or mildew
Not affected by moisture or humidity
Lowers heating and cooling costs year round
Bubble Foil Application:
Metal & Steel Buildings
Homes
Roof Underlayments
Cathedral Ceilings
Crawl Spaces
Hot Water Heaters
Basement Walls
Floors
Garage Doors
Concrete slabs
Driveway snow melts
Pole barns
Post frame buildings
Poultry barns
Animal kennels
Temperature sensitive storage areas
Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:
Material Structure: AL/Bubble/AL | ||
Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size | ||
Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized ) | ||
Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized) | ||
PROPERTIES | TEST DATA | UNIT |
Thickness | 3.5-4 | mm |
Weight | 250 | g/m2 |
Emissivity | 0.03-0.04 | COEF |
Thermal conductivity | 0.034 | w/m0 |
Apparent Density | 85 | kg/m3 |
Reflectivity | 95-96 | % |
Water Vapour Transmission | 0.013 | g/m2kpa |
Corrosion | doesn't generate | |
Tensile Strength(MD) | 16.98 | Mpa |
Tensile Strength(TD) | 16.5 | Mpa |
- Q:We have recently moved into a house in Australia with a tin roof. There is a layer of 5cm batts on the rafters in the roof space, but the temp is 10-15 degrees C higher up there than in the house (with all the windows and doors open). I don't want to get air-conditioning, is there another way to insulate the roof and cool the house?
- like they said ventilation is the answer... you allready have a radiant barrier ( metal roof ), now get the heat out. a rigge vent would be best with plent of open soffit all the way around the perimeter. if you're in a dry climate, a humidifier will work as well as an a/c, but much cheaper! give measurments in feet & inches... what do you thing, some one from france is going to help you?
- Q:The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
- i guess u mean attic insulation, it all depends on the type of ins u have, but why remove it ?, just add more on top..i'm not sure where ur located, the amt of ins depends on ur climate...here in Ontario, Canada, the code req's R40 for attics...but R32 is just as efficient
- Q:Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
- No. The shingles are applied directly to the decking (over felt paper). Nailing through rigid insulation will either cause dips from driving the occaisional nail too far, or the shingles won't be nailed down tight and will blow off in the wind. Insulate under the decking.
- Q:I need to call around and find a contractor to repair my roof. I thought it might be a good idea to at least have the name of this type of roofing correct so I don't sound like too much of a mark. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
- redneck style roofing
- Q:I am building a porch roof over an existing patio. The rafters are fabricated I-beams. I plan on putting aluminum soffit under the I-beams. On top of the roof I would like to put down a metal roof. I already put down 3/4" OSB and a rain/ice barrier. Do I need insulation and/or ventilation on top of the rain and ice barrier, or can I get away without it?
- Its a outside patio, are you going to enclose it for living space? If not don't bother to insulate and for ventilation there is soffit that comes with vent holes in it. Add; no it will not cause a moisture problem, i had a patio with a open bottom metal roof and had no problems and i live in Florida.
- Q:what effect does changing the pitch of a roof have on the insulation properties and durability of a roof?
- I'd have to agree with mj, your insulation in your ceiling is the major factor for heating and cooling , spec R-38 but if your going for gov. kick backs I think it's R-41 (17" of blown in fiberglass insulation). Roof pitch standard is 1' raise to 4' run, (really easy to re-roof & inexpencive). Advantages of a steep roof (less apt to have leakage problems with a worn roof, you get a few more yrs). When you have to replace that roof, price goes up for steepage.
- Q:My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
- You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.
- Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
- James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.
- Q:attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12"x12".Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.
- Are your bathroom exhaust fans blowing straight into the attic, maybe? Or your dryer vent?
- Q:What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
- You could have foam roofing installed over the existing roof covering. Look up "foam roofing" on the Internet.
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Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 12
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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