• Polyiso Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 12 System 1
  • Polyiso Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 12 System 2
  • Polyiso Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 12 System 3
Polyiso Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 12

Polyiso Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 12

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q: i mean, what do you use to make it stay put? glue? nails?
These are sheets of foam cut to size, they use a piece or steel wire to hold the foam up its cut some what longer then the width of the bal so it bends forcing it to dig into the joist.
Q: My boyfriend has just moved into a flat in a newly converted house. He's up in the loft, and has just discovered that the roof isn't insulated.Does the landlord have a legal obligation to insulate the roof?
To comply with UK building regulations all lofts must be insulated... Q22. How much loft insulation do I need? A22. To meet current Building Regulations you need 270mm of mineral wool insulation. 100mm between the ceiling joists and 170mm laid over the joists.
Q: if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?
You hit the nail on the head and is a direct indication that you need more insulation. As a matter of fact, many carpentry companies send the sales force out in the winter (When new home building is slower) to look for houses with no to little snow on their roofs compared to their neighbors. This is an indication that the roof is allowing to much heat to escape which then melts the snow on the roof. But take one other thing into account. Was the wind blowing? If the wind is blowing, it could blow snow off your roof and not your neighbor due to his location, obstructions(such as tree's, other buildings) or design of his roof. lastly, depending on the orientation of your home, more sunlight can hit your roof than your neighbors allowing more snow to melt. If your roof is darker compared to your neighbor, it can increase your snow melt compared to your neighbor. If the snow is recent and your neighbor has snow on the roof and you don't, chances are that you need insulation as $$$ is escaping out of your ceiling.
Q: roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.
House Owner, Land Lord. If you are the house owner, contact the people who did the work on your roof, find out what your warranty is.
Q: Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?
Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.
Q: I have a split house with an attic where I have insulation on attic floor, but the house seems to be cold still, Can I add insulation to the roof of the attic? If so, any options? Thank you.
Its wide-spread to have a insulated attic.. I once said a neighbor--that used a tremendous exhaust fan..and his roof became bowed.. He also would use alot of firewood in his abode.. i imagine that moisture by some ability--damaged the attic area--/
Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
We don't know what kind of climate you are in - or the age/construction of the dwelling.......but by standards here, 4 degrees heat loss in 4 hours is insignificant... For comparison.....we have a two-story, 1800 sq ft modern home in Ohio: the windows are triple-glazed (but there are a lot of them)......the walls have fiberglass bats under 1 inch cedar siding.......our ceilings are acoustical tile over plasterboard with about 2 feet of blown-in fiberglass insulation above them. We have a new, Energy Star gas furnace . . . . in cold weather it cycles on&off at least 10 times an hour.....I am sure that if we were to turn it off, the temps would drop more than 5 degrees per HOUR......gas bills about $250 a month in winter. You are fortunate to have so little heat loss in yours.......while the "sawdust looking" insulation doesn't sound very cutting-edge, I can't imagine anything would reduce the heat loss and be cost-effective. If buildings didn't cool-off in cold weather, we'd just heat rocks in the sun and bring them inside !!!!!!!
Q: If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
You will normally install both insulation and a vapor barrier, like a house, these go above the ceiling, but NOT the underside of the roof. Yes you should install vents, you need the air movement.
Q: I would like to know which direction the one side with foil faces. The roof or the interior of the room?This is an attic room. Roof being "raw" i mean that it looks like cedar tongue in groove boards...then shingles on top of them. Which way do i face the foil side of the sheet..?thanx
The foil side should go to the outside. I believe it's a moisture barrier.
Q: I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
If you have clear access to your rafters, the best insulation possible (after installing your vent baffles) is sprayed on foam. I didn't say polyurethane foam on purpose, as there is now a soy based foam available with exactly the same working and thermal characteristics as the petro-poly goop, with none of crude oil. But i digress. Sprayed on foam has the advantage of not only thermal insulation but it also seals everything that it comes in contact with, thus stopping any air movement, something that no fiberglass or extruded polyurethane could ever do. Industry experts are still debating this but, it looks like 1 inch of sprayed on foam (with it sealing qualities) does as much, if not more, than 3 1/2 inches of fiberglass and, foam will never sag or absorb moisture like glass does. Fill your rafter spaces and gloat to the neighbors when your bills come in. :)

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