• Thin tile Italy wood series, W-BROWN System 1
  • Thin tile Italy wood series, W-BROWN System 2
Thin tile Italy wood series, W-BROWN

Thin tile Italy wood series, W-BROWN

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
50000SQM per month m²/month

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Specification:

Serie: Italy wood

Item No.: W-BROWN

Size: 600× 1200mm

Thickness: 4.8mm

Surface: Polished/ Matt

Water absorption rate: ≤ 0.07 %

Breaking strength: 910 N

Modulus of rupture: 75 MPa

Abrasive resistance: Grade 6







Effect picture:






Packing details:

Size(mm)PCS/CTNM2/CTNKGS/CTNSQM/20'GP
600×600-Soluble salt41.44281382.4
600×600-Double loading41.44301296
800×80031.92501036.8
1200×60021.4445864
1200×600-Thin tile32.1622.52592




BREIF INTRODUCTION:

1. High Quality:

Grade AAA+, first choice always.The product quality strictly follow the ISO quality
standard. They all pass and even exceed the national and international standard.

2. Competitive Price:

We have our own factory located in Nanzhuang, Foshan. With 5 production lines, daily
output reaches around 10,000 sqm. Therefore we can offer our clients the very best prices.
Regarding required quantity, discounts are offered.

3. 10 Years Professional Experience:

We have been specialize in manufacturing and exporting tiles for 15 years. Our products can meet different import requirements of different countries. SGS, BV, SONCAP, SASO, CIQ, CE, SNI, INEN, etc can be handled well.

4. Modern Fashionable designs:

New and fashionable designs are promoted and updated periodically, which will be
fresh and fashionable revolutions.



FAQ and Investment:

Q: When can you deliver the goods?
A: If stock is available, we can deliver goods within 10 days. If no stock, that would be 20-25 days after receiving deposit.

Q: How about your payment terms?
A: Our payment terms is by T/T, 30% as deposit, balance by T/T or L/C before shipment.

Q: What is your main market?
A: Our main market is Middle East, Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, European Countries.

Q: We are importing to Egypt, can you provide CIQ certificate?
A: Our company have been in tiles export for many years. We are experienced in dealing with CIQ, SASO, BV, SGS, SNI, SONCAP certificate and etc.



Q: i stay in a moblie home and i would like to lay tile but a lot of ppl are saying not to cause within time the wood under it would give way is that true i dont want to put more carpet cause i have little ones and am tired of shampooing my carpet i have to do it about 4 times a yr and my carpet is a dark green i know but thats what it came with it look nice when it was new but the carpet is 3 yrs old now and not so good looking after so much cleaning .well let me know please
Tiles are OK for a change but which tiles? There are variety of materials offered in tiles like clay/ceramics, porcelain, PVC etc. You can segregate these into hard and flexible category. The wooden floors are semi-hard floors. They are neither rigid nor flexible but fairly closer to the flexible surfaces. Flexible floors can not take the hard materials like clay or porcelain tiles etc. they are fit for flexible materials like carpets, PVC, laminated boards or wooden tiles. For a mobile home with wooden floors carpets or PVC floors are the best. i will not recommend rigid flooring like concrete or ceramic tiling. You can easily find tile-finish PVC or laminated board flooring in variety of colors. Try some if you are fed up with carpets and looking for a change.
Q: We had redid our cupboards a couple years ago and still have to properly cover the hole that was left for the vent on the previous vent system. It looks like they used staples of some type but the way it is just needing 1 and a half (or less) tiles it‘s awkward.
Most ceiling tiles have a tounge groove so each tile fits into another. When you are piecing in tiles it's impossible to get the tounges in the grooves without breaking them. I would suggest, cutting off the tounges with a razor knife and install with Liquid nails or some other construction adhesive. To keep the tiles in place while the glue is drying, cut a 2X4 long enough and put it under the tile while the glue sets up. You might want to put a towell between the tile and the 2X4 to keep from damaging the tile. For the 1/2 tile, score the backside of a tile with a razor knife then break it in half.
Q: is it better to rent a wet saw, or will a tile cutter be less expensive and less messy
It okorder /
Q: Looking to install ceramic tile over concrete basement slab, 12x12 or 13x13 tiles. Main question is how perfectly level/flat does the concrete need to be. If I put a tile down and there is some minor rocking is that no good or will the thinset adhesive take care of that.
Any rocking means the tile is hitting either a high spot or there is a low spot. Low spots can be dealt with the thin set. As long as its less than a 1/4. High spots usually needs to be ground down flat. So to answer your question , for ease of installation and the prevention of cracked tiles at a later date, floors need to be as flat as possible. If you have minor rocking with no thin set down, in some cases a larger sized trowel will do the trick. Each case is different and has to be dealt with differently. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: Not sure it it‘s mold/mildew ot the sealer stripping off. I‘ve used Tilex but it didn‘t work. Even scrubbed it with a stiff brush. Anyone know what this film is and how to get it off?
Are these tiles applied directly to a concrete floor that sits on the ground? If so, it sounds like efflorescence, where salt moves from the ground into the floor and then through the tile appearing as a white film on the surface of the tile (it happens through basement walls and if bricks are placed on the ground). Scrubbing may not be enough. You may have to check at your local hardware store for a sealer for your tiles or a cleaner strong enough to prevent the film from forming again.
Q: Hexagonal tiles of side 20cm are used to tile a room that measures 6.25m by 4.85m. Assuming we complete edges by cutting up tiles how many tiles are needed?
A general rule of thumb is to order 10% more tile than your normal square footage to allow for such cuts, etc.
Q: I‘m installing new tile in my bathroom and had a few questions.1. I understand that I‘m supposed to remove the toilet prior to laying the tile. So I remove the toilet, lay new tile, and then put the toilet on top of the tile? Does this mean that the toilet will sit on the tile? If so, won‘t there be a very little gap where the tile and toilet meet? Are you supposed to seal this gap? Or, do you cut the tile around the shape of the bottom of the toilet and tile around it?2. Same question with the vanity. I‘m replacing my old vanity. Do I have to remove the old vanity, lay tile in the whole area where the old vanity was, and then install the new vanity on top of the tile? Again, what about the small gap? Does it need to be sealed? What do you seal it with?3. How do you remove the old vanity? Do you simply disconnect the plumbing, remove the screws holding it to the wall, and pry it from the wall?Any comments, suggestions, or advice are appreciated.
True enough, you can tile around your vanity and not under it. However, if you ever want to replace the vanity, or change to a pedestal sink, you will find yourself with a problem. I recommend that you do a complete floor tiling job instead of trying to keep a stack of extra tiles in your garage in case this remodel situation occurs. I removed my old vanity by taking out the contents, removing any doors or drawers to gain access to the area under the sink. You can turn off the water supply valves, disconnect the water from the sink, undo the plumbing drain. If it is a popup sink stopper, you can unscrew the arm at the bottom also. If you are replacing the vanity, I estimate you will also replace the sink faucet set, which is what we are doing, so I was not too concerned about saving all the parts. BUT, put all of them in a bag so you can at least donate a used complete faucet set to Habitat's RESTORE. With the sink out of the way, now disengage the vanity from the wall. There is usually a couple of heavy lag bolts/screws which will require a wrench and not a screw driver to remove. once they are removed, you are almost there. Now take loose the shoe molding which covers the seam where vanity sits on the floor. If there is a backsplash , try to just slide the vanity away from it so it will not be broken. Sometimes all that secures the backsplash to the vanity is some silicone, and it can be cut with a razor knife inserted between the vanity top and the backsplash. I am no way a plumber, but I do very well at demolition of different home features. Take your time, and don't give up. You want to leave the wall intact, and the plumbing connections reusable. I ended up stuffing an old sock in the drain after I removed the P-trap, wrapping the end around the pipe stub. That keeps any stray odors out of the house.
Q: I like the original quarry tiled floor from our 60‘s kitchen, but they are quite badly stained. I can‘t pretend they have any historic value, or even were particularly well laid, so on balance should I1) Replace with new tiles, perhaps up to a higher standard2) Get a specialist to restore them to something approaching their original stateWhich will cost more, and what would you do?
Quarry tiles are made from unrefined extruded, high silica alumina clay that gets pressed into the desired form and hard burnt. They are hard and durable but have a softer composition than ceramic tiles. It is an unglazed form of tile, which comes in a natural colour selection, red, brown and beiges. A good and cheap place to start is to try using raw linseed oil. This will usually remove most of your tough stains. You want to be careful about using acids on real quarry tile because they are very porous and acids could etch your tiles permanently. If the linseed oil doesn't do the trick then a more expensive alternative would be using Lithofin Victorian Tiled Floor Restorer and a good sealer is HG Golvpolish. You should be able to get these from good tile retailers. If the tiles are laid on earth, or on a lime bed on earth, they should not be sealed as they need to breath to avoid damp being trapped. The original tile finish was a clear oil and of course this still allows the tile to breath. Try Slate Dressing from a fireplace shop, this is colourless and will give a richness to the tiles.. Hope this helps.
Q: I applied sealer to Mexican tile and within a few hours, it rained.The finish on the tiles now is cloudy. Will this clear with time as everything dries or should I bake the tiles to burn off the water trapped in the sealer?
The cloudiness you see is called blushing--the remedy will depend on the finish that you used. If it a lacquer you can use blush eliminator, I have never tried it on shellac or enamel. It may go away after it is dry however. Sometimes the moisture in the air will cause the finish to blush.
Q: how do you clean up ceramic tiles? they dont seem to shine but look very dull whenever i clean it with water and soap. is there a product i can use to clean them and at the same time leave them shining?
some tiles just don't have a shiny glazing. if the tile has a texture to it, then really that's all the shine it will have. if you have a piece that wasn't set, just extra, compare it to the set tile. the set tile should have the same shiny glaze as the extra piece. if the extra piece is shiner then there is a bit of a haze on the tile from grout residue. contact the manufacturer if possible and ask for cleaning suggestions. if not possible, start with a bit of vinegar in water and elbow grease.

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