Swimming Pool Tile CMAX-RQ136

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: T/T

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 100,000 Sqm Per Month pc/month

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Key Specifications of Swimming Pool Tile CMAX-RQ136:

1. Material: glazed porcelain

2. Antique feel, Metal Image

3. Low water absorption

4. Strong in hardness

5. Coordination in color and luster

6. Usage Area: home, office, hotel, government and corporate projects, flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring

7. Style: simple, classic, elegant and splendid in color

8. Good in abrasion and chemical corrosion-resistant

9. Resistance to thermal shock

10. Available in various sizes and colors

Advantages of Swimming Pool Tile CMAX-RQ136:

1. All product of rustic ceramic tiles are of top grade AAAA

2. CE certificate, ISO9001:2008 and ISO14001:2004

3. OEM accepted.

4. Speial dimensions available according to your floor tiles request.

5. Best Quality with best price, strictly quality control.

6. On time delivery, in general 7-10days.

7. Best after sale service, customer can follow their porcelain tiles order situation any time. no matter on product line, warehouse or shipment.

Main Export Markets:

1. Asia

2. Australasia

3. Central/South America

4. Eastern Europe

5. Mid East/Africa

6. North America

7. Western Europe

Details Information for different size of Swimming Pool Tile CMAX-RQ136

Item	Chip Size(mm)	Pc/sheet	Sheet Size(mm)	Sheets/Ctn	KG/Ctn	M2/Ctn	Ctns/Pallet
Ceramic Mosaic	23x23	144/sheet	302x302	20	22	1.82	54
	48x48	36/sheet	306x306	20	22	1.87	54
	23x48	72/sheet	300x300	33	25	3	54
	45x45	36/sheet	300x300	25	20.5	2.272	54
	45x95	18/sheet	300x300	22	21	2	54
	73X73	16/sheet	300x300	22	21	2	54
	45x145	12/sheet	300x300	25	25	2.272	54
	240x115		240x115	36	19	1	72

Product Pictures

Swimming Pool Tile CMAX-RQ136

Q: I will be putting matching ceramic tile as molding....what is the best way to attach the ceramic molding to the wall?: Thin set will hold it to a sealed ( painted of primered wall) but it will slip and slide down the wall.If your not stacking it on other tile or it is a heavier type pc ( like a chair rail molding) Mastic , the pre mixed glue is a better way to adhere it with the proper amount of glue.Most all tiles will stay on with out support and dry to the point it will tear off dry wall when removed. Mastic can not be used in a wet area such as in a shower/tub. Can be used outside on the wall. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: We recently bought a house and the bathroom has tile everywhere (including the ceiling). What is the best, easiest, fastest way to get tile up. The experiences we‘ve had with tile is that it just breaks up in little pieces. Any suggestions?: If it where on drywall, I would take off the drywall - gut down to the studs. If its on plaster, get a wide chisel and hammer away...Sometimes a 6 drywall knife works to srape off tile then you have some drywall repair- skim coating. Hopefully, for your sake, the tile is on drywall - a newer home...

Q: We just had tile intalled in our home. What products do you use (or recommend) to clean tile? On a regular basis? Spill/Accident basis?Also, can anyone recommend a good cordless sweeper (for tile of course)?: i don't know but i got 2 points

Q: We just bought a house and the bathroom tile looks terrible. Its not in bad shape, I just dont like the ugly floral pattern. Since we had to spend a lot of money on other projects in the house we dont have a lot to spend on re-tiling, The bathroom is small, about 5ftx4ft of floor, so I thought peelstick would be a good option. The tiles currently on the floor are peel and stick, should I remove them all before I apply the new ones? or can I just give them a good cleaning and lay the new tiles over them?: Don't use the conventional peel and stick, there's something better. Home Depot has some tiles or planks of vinyl which stick to each other but not the floor, nice patterns, good price and easy to do. All you need is a smooth surface, doesn't matter what kind, to place them on, and there is stuff called embossing leveler which will do that, and you use it to fill in the pattern on the old tiles to avoid what the previous poster mentioned of the old pattern showing through. I have this stuff in most of my house now and it's great.

Q: we had our bathroom redone, it looks great but the guy that did it got some grout on one of the decorative tiles, where it shouldn‘t be. Is there a way to get the grout off ?: First if your unhappy the tile man should be called to do this. But if you feel you can do it yourself there are a couple ways to do it. If it happens to be a raised or relief style deco use a pc of wood. A small dowel sharpened to a dull point can be used to gently dig out the grout. If its a flat deco tile, scrape off excess with a flat pc of wood or plastic. Never use metal since it can leave a permanent mark on tiles. Fine hazes you can start with a dry rag and work up to a white nylon pad scrub with. When doing a rag or nylon pad do this dry, no water. Water helps reintroduce the grout to the tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: if there are 24 square tiles in a box and there are enough to cover 3 square feet, how big are the tiles?: 24 tiles/3 sq ft =8 tiles per square foot. Since 8 is not a square, there is no solution, or the tiles cannot be square.

Q: Can ceramic tile be applied over my existing formica counter tops? They are in good shape, just ugly. They are not molded, but the formica is not loose anywhere and would probably be hard to remove. Anyone have any experience with this sort of project?: I wouldn't put it on the counter top itself. It would be hard to work on and to keep clean. The working surface of a counter top should be smooth. If you are talking about the tile above the splash board, I personally would remove it. Otherwise you would loose the depth of the splash board.

Q: Is there a site you know that would be helpful for this. I am going to be doingthe kitchen walls, no back splash from counter. Tile will start at counter go up to bottom of cabinets.I was thinking of using a regular tile then half way up putting a 6 inch strip of glass tile, they are smaller really add SPUNK! lol I need some pointers on doing it though. Or any tips you might have.THANKS!: It's a great look you are going to love it!! Here's what I know. Buy the triangular wedges type spacers. The will hold the tiles up in position better than the X type. you pull these out once the tile is set. Be sure that you start your accent pieces directly 1/2 space over from your tiles, you don't want the lines to accidentally match up, that just blows the whole line appeal out of the park. So cut your first accent so that it ends in the middle of your lower tile. That should give you the proper off set. Be sure to use mastic especially designed for wall applications. Standing up on the wall, it must be more stiff from the start than your flat surfaces. Same goes for the grout, mix it just a tad more firm than you'd like to work with, it will stay up better. Nothing worse than the grout running down. That's all I know. I've done it a few times and am always so proud. What a savings!!

Q: How to look at the quality of tiles: Ordinary people to buy tiles bad identification of two local brick surface and brick quality. Is also the most easily identified. (Not to listen, this is very interesting, the first hit objects can not be measured, the second voice can not be measured, this is not the way most people can use, but also has been said that the errors, but also has been used, This is a professional. Only professional workers to identify.) Most people asked is affixed to the kitchen, bathroom wall, almost all with plywood for paving. Identify the surface of the tiles, only need to take two pieces of the same brick surface together, the gap can not see the better. The porcelain surface has no holes in the surface. (High flatness, posted on the wall will not be uneven) the quality of the tiles, the hand to feel the same type of brick with the heavier the better. If you do not feel it, then try density, pour in the back of the tile, the more the better water seepage. (Kitchen, bathroom, hot summer heat, these factors directly affect the tile will crack, the higher the quality of the more difficult to appear.

Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?: Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

Through constant innovation and practice,it has developed into a professional ceramic wall and floor tiles enterprise.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location	Foshan, China
Year Established	2003
Annual Output Value	Above US$ 20 Million
Main Markets	Aisa; Mid East; Eastern Europe; North America; South America
Company Certifications	ISO 9001

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port	Foshan; Huangpu
Export Percentage	25% - 30%
No.of Employees in Trade Department	10-15 People
Language Spoken:	English; Chinese
b) Factory Information
Factory Size:	Above 100,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines	Above 4
Contract Manufacturing	OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered
Product Price Range	Medium