• Super Glazed Porcelain Vitrified Tiles 4012 System 1
  • Super Glazed Porcelain Vitrified Tiles 4012 System 2
  • Super Glazed Porcelain Vitrified Tiles 4012 System 3
  • Super Glazed Porcelain Vitrified Tiles 4012 System 4
  • Super Glazed Porcelain Vitrified Tiles 4012 System 5
Super Glazed Porcelain Vitrified Tiles 4012

Super Glazed Porcelain Vitrified Tiles 4012

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1200 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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Quick Details

Type:

Tiles

Place of Origin:

Guangdong China (Mainland)

Brand Name:

Sunshine

Model Number:

4012

Size:

600 x 600mm,800 x 800mm

Material:

Porcelain Tiles

Usage:

Interior Tiles

Function:

Antibacterial,Non-Slip

Surface Treatment:

Polished Tiles

Technique:

Vitrified Tiles

Tile Type:

Floor Tiles

Color:

beige ,black ,white

Thickness:

9.5mm

Water absorbtion:

<0.5%< p="">

Design:

Various

Type details:

Polished Porcelain Vitrified Tiles With Price

Delivery time:

Quick ,on time

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:White carton with wooden pallet with fumigation in 20'GP container
Delivery Detail:15-25 days after receiving deposit

  Product Description

 

 

DESCRIPTION

 WATER ABSORPTION

    PC/CTN

KGS/CTN

M2/CTN

MINIMUM ORDER QUANTITY 

CTNS 

        M2

      G.W.(KGS)

Vitrified Tiles With Price   600X600X9.5mm

     <0.5%< span="">

4

28

1.44980

1411.2

27440.00

 

 

Product Types:

1. Spot Feeder Porcelain Floor Tiles Series,

2. Micro Powder Porcelain Floor Tiles Series,

3. Unpolished Salt and Pepper Porcelain Floor Tiles Series,

4. Polished Salt and Pepper Porcelain Floor Tiles Series, 

 

 

The Advantage of  Vitrified Tiles with price:

1.No Radioactivity.

2.No color difference.

3.Low water absorption.

4.Resistence to bending strength.

5.Resistence to fading ,discoloration.

6.Glazed surface ,top grade quality.

7. Equipment from German and Italy.

8.It is good for house decoration of interior flooring and wall tile bulding materil , kitchen wall tile building materils ,bathroom wall tiles build material ,Balcony ,super market ,house design ,shopping mall ,warehouse construction material

 

Q: I am ready to tile a kitchen island, it has the rough shape of HOME PLATE, though not pointy. What is the best way to cover those odds angles effectively? Should I butt two edge tiles together? Also, I am not fond of the 16th inch spacing in tiles, I prefer 1/4 in gaps...any issues for the top of counter. The sides will be 1/8th gap.AdamDeridder,La
Thousands of sq. ft. of tile. Certainly an Angle grinder with a diamond wheel can give you the cuts and angels that might work in as close as the rest of the perimeter tiles. A decent grit grind wheel can be used carefully to round off. In some measure your success will depend on the type of tile. Ceramic is as stable as Porcelain, but the glaze is millimeters thick only. I haven't spaced at 1/16th ever. It isn't enough space for grout to ahdhere well enough. 1/8th or 1/4 is standard, and sanded grout, polymer based. Steven Wolf
Q: What does the thinset and grout do to tiles when installing them?
The thin set ( either a grey is what adheres the tile to the substrate your bonding to.It is also used as a filler when setting a cement board down to the floor. This ensures there is no voids between the sub floor and the cement board to make a solid base for tile. The grout is to fill the space between the tiles to help support the tile and to prevent dirt between the needed space for tiles. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: The ceramic tile in my shower is looking really shabby and I‘d like to re-do it in subway tiles on the walls and mini hexagonal tiles on the floor. Has anyone ever re-tiled an old shower? What should I keep in mind? It is a single story house that is about 30 years old and I beleive it is all the original stuff.
I have retiled a couple of showers, and this is basically what you're in for: You need to remove all of the old tile. This could require removing the grout, but you may be able to use a scraper and get the old tiles off without removing the grout. Then you will be replaceing the sheet rock that was under the old tiles (make sure to use green board it's water resistant). This will give you a new and smooth surface to put up new tile. Then you need to get your tile, grout, plastic t-shaped spacers, and fast setting tile mortar. You can buy pre-mixed mortar, or mix your own (pre-mixed is easier, but a little more expensive). Use a mortar trowel (the kind with the saw toother edges) to spread a thin layer of mortar evenly on a section of wall. Then place the tile and use the plastic t-shaped spacers to keep the seperated, and even. After the tile has had time to set (the next day in most cases) mix up your grout, and apply it to the edges of the tiile. This will be messy, but don't worry, you can wipe the grout right off of the tile surface. After the grout dries, you want to use a grout sealant to make sure the grout is resistant to water. Unsealed grout will deteriorate, and also grow mold and mildew. hope that helped... it can be a bit challenging if it's your first time, but doing it yourself can also save you hundreds in labor costs.
Q: What is the standard water absorption of tiles?
It depends on which tile is. General magnetic bricks (polished tiles, better external walls, etc.) standard water absorption is less than 5%. There is also a completely impermeable interior wall with a standard water absorption of less than 10%. A little bit of the interior wall (permeable one) is greater than 10%. Magnet is generally better in water absorption.
Q: 2nd bathroom, rarely used. Not sure if I want to spend the time to remove the tile (200 sq ft) or just put a think underlayment over it and then laminate.Anything that I should be concerned with doing it this way?
It is not recommended that you install laminate flooring in bathrooms or in other areas in your home prone to increased moisture. Even though the underlayment protects flooring from moisture, these areas usually contain too much moisture which can cause flooring to warp. Use a special adhesive if installing laminate flooring in places with excessive moisture levels.
Q: I am am re-tiling the kitchen counter. Please help. Thanks.
The last floor I did has been with spacers. The tiles were very uniform and spacers make it go very quickly. Once in a while I need to remove one or two spacers to let an irregular tile fit in without making my lines bulge. I have seen every-day tile guys do it with and without, sometimes with great results and sometimes the opposite.
Q: I am installing 4x4 ceramic tiles on a shower wall. I have been using a 1/4 x 1/4 sq. notch trowel, but am having trouble with the tiles staying put...should I use a 3/16 x 5/32 v-notch trowel instead?
Mike and Rob are correct - 1/4 square notch for a 4x4 tile. A 4x4 ceramic is a pretty light tile, if they're not sticking, there's an issue with your technique. You should be using a modified thinset (do NOT use pre-mixed (the stuff in a tub) thinset - it's actually a water-based adhesive and it will NOT last in wet areas ), mixed to the consistencey of peanut butter. A common DIY'er mistake is to mix their mortar too wet. First apply the thinset to the wall with the smooth edge of the trowel and work it back and forth a couple times. This keys the mortar into the backer board (you are applying over cement backer board, right?) for good adhesion to the wall. Then using the notched edge, held at a consistent 45 degree angle to the wall, remove the excess mortar. And work in small sections - with 4x4 tiles, apply the thinset in 2' squares -- otherwise the thinset will set up (and loose adhesion) before you get all the tiles in place. Small batches goes for mixing the thinset, too. Check the label, but most thinsets have a 1-2 hour pot time (how long it can sit in the bucket before it sets up) -- exceed that and the mortar will loose it's adhesion and the tiles won't stick. You can simplify wall tile installation by screwing a starter board to the wall (1x2 or strip of plywood works well), 3-4 courses up from the floor. This will support your first course, and tile spacers will support succesive courses. Then remove the board and finish up the bottom courses.
Q: I‘m looking to re-tile my kitchen... I would like to get good quality tile, at a good price. Can I trust tile purchased at any particular large hardware chain, or should I seek out a specialty flooring store? Or does it even matter that much - is tile just tile?
Go to Home Depot, you will be able to find someone that works there and they will show you a wide variety of ceramic tiles. You would probably find what you are looking for or either you would see something you like. Let the professionals handle the work.
Q: How to fix the surface of the tile? How much is the thickness of the tile?
Tile thickness plus mortar thickness of two centimeters.
Q: I just finished grouting my tile yesterday I want to remove the haze with vinager should I let the grout cure for three days,then seal it and then scrub the whole floor including going over the grout lines (which would be then sealed) scrubbing with a sponge and avoiding the non cured grout is working but is taking far too long
Clear water should work. You're supposed to get all that off before you leave it to dry. Do seal it after the curing process. Even dark grouts get dirty. Sealing helps a lot.

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