Single Side Aluminium Foil Laminated to PE Wove Fabric - Sheet Metal Roofing Insulation

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1. Description

FW780 was designed to thermal insulate and moisture proof with highly tensile strength, it is durable, energy saving and environmentally friendly.

2. Construction & Benefits:

Three-layer product with bright aluminum foil to one side, this substrate provides superior tear resistance. LDPE (Polyethylene) used in this product provides superior resistance to delamination.

The combination of woven fabric and aluminum foil by polymer adhesive producing an extremely tough product with superlative tear resistance.

3. Application:

Designed for wall wrap and as a roof covering for commercial and residential building, it should not come into contact with wet concrete or mortar, because aluminum is susceptible to alkali corrosion.

4. Dimension/Size

[1]. Roll width: 1000mm,1200mm and 12500mm

[2]. Roll Length: 50m, 100m, 200m, 500m, 1000m, or upon request.

[3].. Core I.D.: 3"(76mm+/-1)

5. Similar products guide

FWS780

FWM78012

FW1280

FWS1280

6 R & D

We are developing flame retardant products and will meet market in Spring 2011.

Q:I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.: Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.

Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)

Q:How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?: you live in the conditioned air box! you can't change your wall insulation, just add more to the ceiling. don't block roof vents as they are as important in winter as summer. if you have an unfinished basement, you may want to consider sealing off the joist with plastic or tyvek depending on your conditions ( north or south ). most bang for the buck is ceiling insulation.

Q:i mean, what do you use to make it stay put? glue? nails?: Steel spreaders may be cheapest (as described in other answer) but many roofs have shingle nails sticking out,a couple dabs of caulking,glue,you're done! Be sure anything you use is compatible with your foam,some will just MELT it. Good Luck! DrJ

Q:Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.: we live in the desert, and got our roof coated, and instantly noticed the difference, it is much more insulated, and provides protection against leak (which was the main reason we had it done)

Q:we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,: i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.

Q:Can you put fiberglass insulation on the under side of roof tiles in the loft in the house?: You should not be able to see your roof tiles from inside your house. So no, it can not be done. You can attach insulation to the rafters if that is what you meant.

Q:As opposed to other roof structures, such as Mansard or Hipped roofs. If so, is it because there is a lesser distance between the internal heat source and the roof?: Hm. Tough one. Could be. I would think because there is less surface area.

Q:What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!: You could have foam roofing installed over the existing roof covering. Look up "foam roofing" on the Internet.

Q:i like to put a layer of sand in roofing instead of insulation. it's fireproof and insulates better. plus it's free. how much weight can ceiling board handle? I find about 15 inches poured into the roof works fine so far. Saves me about $1600 each house built: first sand is very heavy and will probably exceed the loading on the roof and walls the extra reinforcing you would need to make the house SAFE would far outway any savings

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