Rustic Tile CMAX 6899

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Product Description:

Key Specifications/Special Features:

Size: 300 x 300mm; 400 x 400 mm; 500 x 500 mm;
MOQ: 1 x 20ft FCL
Applications:
- Thin slabs are made from clay and other inorganic raw materials
- Generally used as coverings for floors and walls, usually shaped by extruding (A) or pressing (B) at room temperature but may be formed by other processes (C), then dried and subsequently fired at temperatures sufficient to develop the required properties
- Tiles can be glazed (GL) or unglazed (UGL) and are incombustible and unaffected by light
Standards: GB/T 4100-2006, ISO 13006:1998 (E)
Certificates: ISO 13006:1998 (E), SASO 1031/1998

Primary Competitive Advantages:

Brand-name Parts
Experienced Staff
Price
Prompt Delivery
Quality Approvals
Stock
Good Payment Term

Main Export Markets:

Eastern Europe
North America
Mid East/Africa
Central/South America
Asia
Western Europe
Australasia

Packing：

Tiles are packed in styrfoam boxes and are further packed into fumigated wooden crate. For slabs, each slab is packed in a separate polythene wrapper to reduce or avoid scratching of tiles and slabs which are packed face to face. 2cm slabs about 15-18pcs in one bundle; 3cm slabs about 10-13pcs in one bundle

packing

About the certificate:

certificate

certificate2

Our Advantanges:
1. Our company is a state-owned group company. So we have good reputation and credibility.
2. We own many qurries in china,brazil,iran,india to ensure our supply of different types of granite,marble,limestone,sandstone,etc.
3. We are a professional manufacturer so we can provide you various tiles with high quality and best price.
4. We have more than 5 years exports experience.So we can make your order more smooth.
5. All of our goods will pass THREE QUALITY INSPECTIONS before shippment.
6. Best after sale service, customer can follow their orders situation any time, no matter on production line, warehouse or shippment.
7.Special dimensions available according to your request.
8.We have many certifications of our tiles.
Here you can find good productions, better price and best service; please enjoying and welcome inquirying!
Choose us is your best choice! Our purpose is: CUSTOMER IS FIRST!

Q: i just bought this house and my kitchen floor tile is all cracked it was put on a wood serfice. i need a quick fix because redoing the whole kitchen needs doing but is not in my bugit at this time. can i cover it with linoleum with out it also cracking before i can remodle?.: Sure. Lino does not crack(unless you give it 50 years of aging) But the lino on a roll is the best route to go. Not tile squares so much(you can do it that way but it is a bother).

Q: so i bought tile but not the bull nose end pieces cause they did not have them for that tile. I tiled all the way out to the edge of the counter and now need a way to finish the edge. I have seen wood edges but what is this called and how do you do it? does it butt up against the tile of does it go over? is a wet tile saw supposed to leave ugly, chipped edges? bought a Brand new blade and it did not help.: Yes, wet saws leave unfinished edges. They're meant to cut a tile not finish it. You didn't mention what type of tile you're dealing with, but I'm going to assume its ceramic for the sake of this answer. You have a few options. First, you can finish with an oak counter trim piece. Many home improvement retailers sell them unfinished. You can buy one, stained and seal it, then silicon it on. Second, you can bullnose. Remember here, a line of grout can be your friend. It will help give an overall finished appearance. Third, some styles of tile (usually the expensive ones) come with something called a V-cap. It looks exceptional on counter top edges. It will give a rounded appearance to your edging. A bead of grout finishes the bottom. I hope you bought this tile at a home improvement retailer with employees on site to help you. Go back to the store and talk over ideas with them. Take a sample of the tile with you. The people that work for me would be able to help you solve this problem in a heartbeat. Any properly trained employee at a retailer should be able to help you.

Q: Glass glue and tiles: Glass glue gun with the United States sewing agent gun is the same, general

Q: Recently, my carpet got a bit singed in front of the fireplace. so, I decided to place tile in front of the fireplace. I plan to remove the carpet and the padding. what will be left is the plywood and 2x4‘s. not exactly sure if there is anything under the plywood since this was an addition and is on top of the garage, where the garage is not underground but has cinderblock walls. when my son jumps around, it kinda shakes the floor.what I need to know is if cement board has to be used. can I just place tile over plywood with the appropriate adhesive? remove plywood all together? what is the simplest method for a single momma with low funds who is not familiar with laying tile? my second inquiry is about finishing it off. I can do the grout easy enough, but what about where the tile meets the carpet? I really hate the cheap look of those metal things, but I don‘t know what other options there are except for folding (?) the carpet under (?). suggestions?thanks in advance!!: 3/8 drill. square drivers, trowel. grout float several 5gal buckets and sponges. Buy a sheet of tile cement board. its 3/8 thick and a box of backer board screws made specifically for the tile board. it comes in 3'x5' sheets. Standard code is 18 from the edge of the fireplace. I built mine 24 because it looked better. I had to also add carpet strips around it to hold the carpet down. built that part up a bit as well and used a strip of bamboo flooring trim made to hide the transition between wood flooring and tile.

Q: Am I able to Lay down Ceramic/Porcelain Tiles directly on top of vinyl tiles. If So are there special material that I need to use.Even though the floor is in the basement, it seems that the vinyl is laid over wood, rather than concerete.Thanks for your answer.: Yes it is possible if your vinyl is in good condition with no loose areas. This method is generally not recommended though. You should remove your vinyl and use and good embossing floor leveler before preceding with installation as normal. You can give it try over the vinyl but I believe you will be happier in the long run with a job you know was done right.

Q: We recently had new porcelain tile installed on our guest bath floor, and we‘d like to clean it regularly without harming the tiles and grout. The tile installer had no recommendations about this process, nor did the tile company where we made the purchase. Researching this info is very confusing. Some sites recommend using only a wet mop, while others claim that vinegar diluted in water is appropriate; others advise using some type of manufactured cleaning product. We know that regular sweeping is necessary, but we‘re unsure which products to use to protect our new floor. If you suggest a wet mop, please advise which is best: Shark, Eureka, Bissell, etc. Thanks for any detailed advice you can provide.: Hello, I agreed to what Bob said. One thing I want to add that is to hire professionals. I am doing so and got safe results.

Q: I‘m planning to tile up my space. It‘s a 27 square meters. I‘ve calculated the number of tiles. It will be around 140 to 150 pieces with extra tiles. How much or how many bags of tile adhesive will I consume for the 27 square meters space using 150 pieces of tiles? or What is the area a bag of tile adhesive could cover? Can you show me a computation.: You don t say what size tile it is and what your going over as far as a substrate. It makes a difference. Since I familiar with the coverage in s/f and your post suggests you came from the states I ll use a s/f format and some generalizations. Assuming you have a larger tile you should be using a larger notched trowel.1/4x3/8 but you may want to use a larger 1/2x1/2. I ll go off of a 1/4x3/8 trowel. A standard 50# bag of thin set will cover an area of 60/70 s/f using a 1/4x3/8 trowel. Splitting the difference and using 65 s/f per bag, divide 65 into the 290 s/f you have. Or 4.46 bags. So you ll need 5 , 50# bags of thin set using a 1/4x3/8 trowel. If your using a different size trowel , all bags have a coversion chart on the back to figure your coverage. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: We have small ceramic tiles on our bathroom floor. They are varied in shape and size (see photo).I think that these tiles originally came with some sort of netting on the back when they laid the floor and they added grout? I believe I saw some extra tiling somewhere in our home and this is what I had found.Anyway, the grout is breaking up between some of the tiles and some of the tiles keep popping out. I have two questions, If I regrout them do I put it on the bottom of the tile too and does that make the tile adhere to the floor?How would I get the grout to match what‘s already there, it‘s a medium brown gray. Not sure if it started out that way or became like that over the years. Would it look funny if the grout didn‘t match? How could I get it to match?: no, reglue tiles, regrout after cleaning out old stuff. 2 step process

Q: I need to put a 4 inch hole in a 16 inch ceramic tile.: There are special bits for this. And you'll need a darned heavy duty drill. Your local hardware store can show you the right stuff.

Q: Dont worry about looks with the dollar tile just want to know pricing pretty much on the tile and how expensive it is.: If you are doing the tile work yourself, it will be cheaper than having one of those fiberglass shower enclosures put in. You are looking at the cost of tile (at $1/sqft.), grout ($10 or less), permabase/durock ($9 per 3x5 sheet), mastic ($30 for high quality), and caulk ($4), to get the job done. On an average size shower, this will bring your total material bill in at right around $200. This is based on entirely ripping out your old shower walls (back to the studs), and building an entirely new shower. A complete rennovation for $200. This is what I do for a living, and I can honestly tell you that you will save tons if you are handy enough to do this yourself. One side note on the pre-fab showers (fiberglass, urethane, etc) - we get a lot of calls to come out and remove mold from these types of enclosures. On most that I've seen there are a lot of corners and small nooks that moisture gathers up and sits in. Just something to watch out for should you go that method. Good luck to you, either way.

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