• Roofing Insulation Foam Diy - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102 System 1
  • Roofing Insulation Foam Diy - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102 System 2
  • Roofing Insulation Foam Diy - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102 System 3
Roofing Insulation Foam Diy - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102

Roofing Insulation Foam Diy - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1200 m²
Supply Capability:
12000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

 

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

 

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on

 

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

 

 

 

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

STRUCTURE

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL

MPET /BUBBLE/MPET

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

THICKNESS

1-4mm

8mm

6.5mm

4mm

4mm

WEIGHT

120GSM

240GSM

180GSM

120GSM

445GSM

BUBBLE SIZE

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM

WIDTH

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY

0.034w/mo

0.032 w/mo

0.032w/mo

0.034w/mo

5.87m2.k/w

REFLECTIVITY

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

 

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulationis one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality testWe resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.
Q:I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.
Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.
Q:Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?
It shouldn't matter. Here's why: If your attic is already well insulated and ventilated, there is insulation sitting on top of your drywall or plaster ceiling. Above that insulation is moving cold air. That air keeps your roof from rotting. The insulation creates a barrier between your living space and the moving air in the attic. You can differentiate homes with good insualtion from those without it--well insulated homes will have snow on their rooftops for a longer time. Additionally, well insulated homes are less likely to develop ice dams. So, I don't believe the snow on your roof should make any difference at all in your energy bill.
Q:1) What thickness of rigid insulation is used on flat roofs?
It depends on what R factor is called for , usually 1 & 1/2 inch on roof 2 &1/2 on walls ( usually statdard)
Q:In a house, it looks like an addition, that now is the kitchen , it feels HOT, it doesn't seem to have a very good insulation on the roof at all, the ceiling is already low, so, what can be done on the outside to give it more insulation?, i don't care what it is i just want to give it a GOOD insulation, the roof is flat and to shingles. Any IDEAS? , thanks!
Sorry but there isn't enough info to give a good answer...is there space between the ceiling and the roof to add insulation...there may be enough insulation but no ventilation in the area directly under the roof (atic area) If there is not enough air flow in this area the temperature will skyrocket thus heat the kitchen AND the shingles will deteriorate very quickly.If you still need to add insulation the best way is to put sloped roof (if possible)and add insulation in the space created or you can use foam insulation and re roof ..make sure you seal between the wall system and new insulation and whatever method make sure to allow air to flow under the roof (both inflow and outflow)
Q:a roof that is built with the insulation covering the waterproof membrain is ?
a foolish product of college education in the building trades. it's pretty much taking over. real tradesmen saw that ship sink a while ago and are getting better at treading water.
Q:please help..
Both fiberglass and asphalt products are harmful to your health. Stick to brands like Raamat, Secondskin, and Dynamat.
Q:Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?
Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.
Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.
Q:Can you put fiberglass insulation on the under side of roof tiles in the loft in the house?
You should not be able to see your roof tiles from inside your house. So no, it can not be done. You can attach insulation to the rafters if that is what you meant.

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