• Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof System 1
  • Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof System 2
  • Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof System 3
Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof

Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 m²/month

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This is a new environmentally friendly aluminum foil bubble heat insulation material, which is soft, light and easy to install. It is made from aluminum foil and polyethylene through special machinery.

Function:

Can be installed on roof, wall or floor, resist over 80% external heat from buildings, protect wall, resist thermal shock and sudden cold, etc.

Characteristics:

1.No odor and toxicity, environmentally- friendly;

2.Moisture barrier, sun-proof, waterproof, good sealing property, heat preservation, energy saving…

3.Heat reflection, heat insulation, sound insulation, anti-radiation, anti-vibration, and shielding;

4.Light, soft, dust free, fire retardant, easy to install;

5.Summer: moisture barrier, sun-proof, heat insulation, saving energy consumed by cool air conditioning ;

6.Winter: heat preservation, central heating saving, and remarkable energy-saving effect.

Product: fireproof material

Technical parameters:

Material structure: AL/bubble/AL

Bubble size: ¢10mm, H 4mm

Bubble weight: 0.13 KG/M2

Roll size: 1.2M W*40M L (can be customized)

PROPERTIES

Test Data

Unit

Thickness

3.5

MM

Weight

256

G/M2

Emissivity

0.115

COEF.

Thermal conductivity

0.034

W/M0

Apparent Density

85

KG/M3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

G/M2 KPA

Corrosion

Doesn't generate


Tensile strength (MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile strength (TD)

16.5

Mpa


Usage:
1. Roof, wall, floor;
2. Shells of air conditioner and water heater;
3. Protective coatings of water pipe and ventilating pip



Q: As opposed to other roof structures, such as Mansard or Hipped roofs. If so, is it because there is a lesser distance between the internal heat source and the roof?
Hm. Tough one. Could be. I would think because there is less surface area.
Q: the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?
it is what might have irritated your mouth. use a mask in the future. for now, increase your fluid intake and try Benedryl for a few days.
Q: My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
Loose fill cellulose can be blown into your attic. I don't know if I understand the protrusions that you are describing but if you can freely blow the cellulose fiber into this space it should serve as a good insulation. You don't want to poke it in with a stick because you don't want to compress it. If you cannot blow this product directly into the space, you would be better off stuffing it lightly with fiberglass batting. Just don't cram it too tightly. It needs to be loose to be most effective.
Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
Q: im thinking of putting rolled felt paper under my metal roofing would that work instead of the reflective insulation instead?
Probably could, but it would look like crap. Painting the roof white would do a better job of keeping the metal cooler. I'd install a ceiling fan in the center of the roof instead to force the hot air out.
Q: We have recently moved into a house in Australia with a tin roof. There is a layer of 5cm batts on the rafters in the roof space, but the temp is 10-15 degrees C higher up there than in the house (with all the windows and doors open). I don't want to get air-conditioning, is there another way to insulate the roof and cool the house?
like they said ventilation is the answer... you allready have a radiant barrier ( metal roof ), now get the heat out. a rigge vent would be best with plent of open soffit all the way around the perimeter. if you're in a dry climate, a humidifier will work as well as an a/c, but much cheaper! give measurments in feet & inches... what do you thing, some one from france is going to help you?
Q: is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
If you have vented soffits, you have to stay away from the corners where the outside wall meets the roof. It is best to install insulation baffles to the roof sheathing to keep the fiberglass from stopping the natural ventilation through the soffit vents into the attic. They can be purchased at home improvement store.
Q: I have read in some articles about roofing that it is recommended to use attic roof insulation in ones roofing. Is this true?
It's advisable to insulate the roof area attic to help keep the rooms below warm as heat escapes through the ceilings, but not so much if there is insulation in the attic! It's personal preference. Cheers
Q: If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
Insulate the ceiling, not the roof. Place the vapor barrier (foil or heavy paper) facing the garage. For Alberta you want at least R-30, or 9" of fiberglass insulation. The garage should already have eave vents, hold the insulation away about a foot from them so the insulation does not block the air flow from them.
Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.

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