• Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof System 1
  • Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof System 2
  • Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof System 3
Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof

Flat Roofing Insulation Board - Foil Bubble Thermal Insulation for Roof

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 m²/month

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This is a new environmentally friendly aluminum foil bubble heat insulation material, which is soft, light and easy to install. It is made from aluminum foil and polyethylene through special machinery.

Function:

Can be installed on roof, wall or floor, resist over 80% external heat from buildings, protect wall, resist thermal shock and sudden cold, etc.

Characteristics:

1.No odor and toxicity, environmentally- friendly;

2.Moisture barrier, sun-proof, waterproof, good sealing property, heat preservation, energy saving…

3.Heat reflection, heat insulation, sound insulation, anti-radiation, anti-vibration, and shielding;

4.Light, soft, dust free, fire retardant, easy to install;

5.Summer: moisture barrier, sun-proof, heat insulation, saving energy consumed by cool air conditioning ;

6.Winter: heat preservation, central heating saving, and remarkable energy-saving effect.

Product: fireproof material

Technical parameters:

Material structure: AL/bubble/AL

Bubble size: ¢10mm, H 4mm

Bubble weight: 0.13 KG/M2

Roll size: 1.2M W*40M L (can be customized)

PROPERTIES

Test Data

Unit

Thickness

3.5

MM

Weight

256

G/M2

Emissivity

0.115

COEF.

Thermal conductivity

0.034

W/M0

Apparent Density

85

KG/M3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

G/M2 KPA

Corrosion

Doesn't generate


Tensile strength (MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile strength (TD)

16.5

Mpa


Usage:
1. Roof, wall, floor;
2. Shells of air conditioner and water heater;
3. Protective coatings of water pipe and ventilating pip



Q: do i have to have insulation in my roof?
you should have insulation on the attic. ot should be right against the occupied ceilings. The attic cavity needs to be for the most part ventilated. That is a common building approach. Ive seen insulated sheets of plywood the roof shingles are nail to. You can call that roof insulator. You still better off with the common industry approach. Make sure you have an attic fan to level the attic temperature to the outside.
Q: were can i buy material to insulate pans and instructions to install it? I have seen many roofs with this done ,but , the lowe,s and home depots don't have .
you do now not desire insulation for this application. in case you have now not offered the metallic yet i might advise searching for a status seam roof equipment that the panel would not are available touch with the substrate and would not use uncovered fasteners. If contained sooner or later you probably did be certain to surround the porch and upload warmth you ought to insulate the ceiling and depart an air area below the decking that ought to be ventilated from the eave to the ridge. a chilly roof assembly with proper air flow will dramatically cut back the flexibility of the metallic panels sweating.
Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
Don't remove the insulation, unless it has mold in it too. Locate the source(s) of your mold problem inside your building... a high rate of interior bulk moisture, and eliminate that. Then make sure the bathrooms have exhaust fans that are wired-in with the light switch (so whenever someone turns the light on, the fan comes on too), and that the fans are vented out of your attic (otherwise you'll have mold inside your attic). Also, make sure the kitchen exhaust fans vent outside (and the clothes dryers too).
Q: I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
the R values, i am not sure. that white stuff is NOT Styrofoam. it is a cheap imitation. Real Styrofoam is made by DuPont, is usually a light blue, with a plastic seal coat on both sides. that thin plastic seal coat doubles the R value. what really does the insulation, is trapped air. air is actually a poor conductor of heat. the foam is actually little bubbles of air. dead air that is, air that cannot circulate and move. it works similarly to the way a down vest or coat works, it fluffs up and holds the air pockets out within a confining structure, thus retaining heat. the rigid stuff will last much longer, i can tell you that much. the white foam stuff deteriorates quickly. buy cheap, get cheap, is the general rule. you may wind up only having to do it again in a few years.
Q: the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
POROSIL A specially graded Light Weight Insulating Aggregate for loose fill insulation in Cavity Wall and over Suspended/False Ceiling. # 100% inorganic and Asbestos free. It will not rot, emit odours or attract vermin. # Light in weight and easy to handle. # POROSIL is the only insulating material which is Non-toxic and non-flammable at the time of fire. # Reduces unwanted heat flow making living comfortable. # Reduces the Air Conditioning Power Consumption upto 20 to 30%
Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
Spray in foam could be an option.. you would need to talk to someone who knows more than I do.. but Ive seen great results
Q: on a traditional pitched roof construction,where is heat insulation usually provided?
The insulation is always placed in the rafters, leaving the rest of the attic space ventilated. That's why it's so important to cover every opening with screen to keep birds and animals out.
Q: I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.
Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.
Q: I have read in some articles about roofing that it is recommended to use attic roof insulation in ones roofing. Is this true?
here in the uk not only is it necessary ..its the law ..under building control up to 250mm 10" of fibreglass is needed ...it keeps house warm in winter and cool in summer
Q: I added a screened room to my mobile home. I also have vinyl windows. in the summer the sun beats down on the home almost all day Someone told me I could have insulation installed in the roof panels, and that i may even be able to do it myself. Right now it's impossible to enjoy my patio between 1-5pm because it so hot you can't breath. I'm in the Pasco, FL area - 34667Appreciate any help you can give
Aluminum Patio Roof Panels

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