• R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar System 1
  • R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar System 2
  • R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar System 3
R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar

R40 Roofing Insulation - Flexible Ducts Insulation Aluminum CVBD Insulation Mylar

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
234 g/m
Supply Capability:
234 g/m/month

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Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

Q:Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q:We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)
Use kraft faced insulation for attics R-19. It won't fill the whole cavity, but will instead provide room for ventilation. Staple it tightmaking sure all gaps are filled. Next, hang sheetrock on the ceiling. My brother omitted this step and gets a lot of cold air bleed down. Then put on your pine. It wouldn't hurt to install a ceiling fan up there too, especially if you are using some sort of non vented gas fireplace or heater. They put out humidity.
Q:does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
I don't get the connection between R-Value (insulation) and shingles that are exposed to the outside!
Q:1) What thickness of rigid insulation is used on flat roofs?
Most common is 2"
Q:No insulation was installed under roof of my 2 story home. Im not rich but looking for info on installing about 450 ft. up there.
If there is no existing insulation you need a vapor barrier 1st or you need "faced" fiberglass, the one with either plastic or brown paper on it. I put it as thick as you can afford.
Q:what effect does changing the pitch of a roof have on the insulation properties and durability of a roof?
by raising the pitch the attic will stay in the cooler in the summer. also the steeper the roof the less wear you will have on certain types of roofing. wood, metal , and tile like steep roofs. mineral roofs dont, since the grainuals on the tar rub off easily during rains and snow will stick to the mineral surface and rip off the grainuals on the steeper roofs. a good pitch is a 6 and 12 pitch. this works well with all roofs and gives good cooling plus you can still stand on it to door any work
Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
Q:i mean, what do you use to make it stay put? glue? nails?
Steel spreaders may be cheapest (as described in other answer) but many roofs have shingle nails sticking out,a couple dabs of caulking,glue,you're done! Be sure anything you use is compatible with your foam,some will just MELT it. Good Luck! DrJ
Q:we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,
i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.
Q:i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?
Compressed insulation is LESS effective than uncompressed insulation. It will still insulate more than not having it. If you are adding enough to actually compress the bottom layer, you have probably passed the point where additional insulation actually helps.

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