Polished Porcelain Tile The Soluble salt white Color CMAXSB0520
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1382.4
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m²/month
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OKorder Financial Service
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Product Features Polished Porcelain Tile The Soluble salt white Color CMAXSB0520:
Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading
Only Grade AAA available
Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing
Competitive price
Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet
Fast delivery
OEM service could be offered
Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing
Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.
Product Specification
Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile
Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001
Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%
Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N
Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa
Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%
Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%
Edge Straightness: ±0.15%
Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3
Glossiness: 》 85 Degree
Resistance to Chemical: Class UA
Resistance to Staining: Class 3.
Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)
For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl
For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl
Production Line & Package
FAQ
1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?
—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.
2. What is the MOQ for this tile?
—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.
3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?
—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.
- Q: I am planning on tiling the backsplash area of my kitchen. I am using 6x6 ceramic porecelin tile (roman stone). The dimensions of the area is 17x60. When i went to scrape the original paint off of the wall I will be tiling, the first thin layer of the drywall came off with the paint. This layer is paper thin. I went to Home Depot and they told me to use Zissner 123 sealer. I put on two coats and the wall seems sealed pretty good. I will be using Mastic as my adhesive. Do you think that I will be ok tiling three tiles high (first tile is laying on the granite countertop) without using a backerboard. Will the drywall be able to hold the mastic/tile even though I ripped off a thin layer of drywall but sealed it with 123 sealer?
- You will be just fine installing your tile to the primed sheetrock. Mastic is great but, expensive. As for your grout joints, you should use either a 3/16 grout joint or a 1/4 grout joint, be sure to use sanded grout. As for your notch trowel, I would advise you to use a 1/4x1/4x1/4 notch trowel. It depends on the thickness of the tile. Well, good luck.
- Q: My husband and I are going to redo a very small, four by four, half bath over Thanksgiving weekend. I‘ve picked up bits and pieces of advice about installing the marble floor tiles I‘ve bought, but I want to make sure I have the right advice before starting this or buying anything:Tile must be sealed both before and after installing, and the best sealer is Sealers Choice Gold. This will seal both the tile and the grout. Preinstall sealing should be done after cutting, not before. Do the tile edges need to be sealed as well or only the tops?Only white modified thinset should be used (brand recommendations?)Non-sanded grout should be used, and 1/8 inch spacing is acceptable for 12x12 tiles.Tiles should be wrapped before cutting to avoid breakage? I‘ve never seen this recommended before, but I‘ve also never installed marble.Thanks so much!
- Marble tile floors have been around for centuries. Even today, in an age of much simpler and less expensive options, marble remains synonymous with elegance and class. Installing marble is more complicated than installing ceramic or other types of tiles because the marble can't be cut on a standard tile cutter, instead needing a wet saw. Also, since the tiles are straight-cut in their manufacture, the tile surfaces have to be completely even with one another.
- Q: I have thinset my slate tiles in place, and washed any thin set off as best as I can with water. I can‘t seem to get some of the thinset marks off, how important is this? Also, how long should I let the tiles dry before I can seal them? (I want to seal before grouting). One last thing, my sealer product says to grout 2 hours after sealing? This seems fast...will the sealer be dry enough?
- Ideally you could have sealed your slate before setting (as long as you kept the sealer off the edges of the tiles). This would have made thinset and grout clean-up much easier. You really need to get all the thinset off your tiles. At this point you might need some hot water, a scrungy pad and some elbow grease. If that doesn't do it then you'll need to use a cleaning solution - maybe they have something where you bought the slate (make sure it's safe for natural stone). So after the tiles are thinset free, you can seal - again only the tops of the tile. If sealer gets down the sides your grout will not grab hold as well. Apply enough sealer to coat, but avoid puddling. You can grout after 2 hrs - but you can wait longer if you like. I would seal your grout after it dries as well. Hope this helped... Rich
- Q: I need either of two types of tile one was a sheet of multicolor mosaic tiles the other is a creamy colour with a beige sort or swirly thing going through it
- Matching dis-continued tile can be a big problem..This is why whenever I do a tile job I leave extra or open boxes behind...The only thing i can say is check every tile store you can find.....Perhaps one has an odd lot left of leftovers...If you know who made the tiles that would help the search....If you E-mail me a photo to my profile I will take a look around my area when I am at the tile stores...Usually shipping can be arranged.
- Q: how to tile vanity top and back splash?
- am not sure you Have to but as there will be water in the area its sure to be HIGHLY recommended. - having delt with water/mold damage for areas it Wasnt used - i personally would recommend using it. the best thing tho is talk to tile sales people find out the recommendations for the tile- perhaps there is some product to prevent the problems i have encountered. good luck
- Q: Should i tile right to the sub floor. Or do i leave room for a baseboard? or do i put the baseboards over top of the tile and glue them on?
- You really need a baseboard. Especially if your home is not on a concrete slab. Your sub floor expands and contracts with weather and humidity changes. This will put stress on your grouted areas. It can also trap moisture which will create mold underneath your floor.
- Q: We purchased a 12 year old house and some of the ceramic floor tiles are cracked and need to be replaced. Where can you find old ceramic tile patterns? Do I have to replace the entire area?
- FINDING OLD TILES ARE LIKE FINDING OLD CAR PARTS slim and none,but don.t dis pair remove one of the old broken or not and take it to local tile only store home depot probably will be of little help as they know their currant supply and only supplier.if all else fails find a complementary style and size and create a new pattern removing the broken and possibly a few not so broken create a new design or bite the bullet.careful in the removal of tiles near tile you want to keep remove grout surrounding the tile you want to remove before you break it out the grout will transfer the impact of a hammer to surrounding tiles breaking more than you want
- Q: I need to repair my shower, about 6 tiles fell off. I‘m currently drying the drywall with a fan. Whats the best way to glue tile back on the wall?
- First of all I would look at the wall behind where the tile has came off. If your house is old or installation was poor they may not have the proper material behind the tile, as in the wall. If it is sheetrock, no wonder! You need either greenboard or dur-rock behind it that is the code. Anyways, once you find this out see if it's only sheetrock behind it, it won't do you any good to stick em back up. Which if the material behind is fine than just get some match stick at home depot that's cheap but creates a nasty mess. Or grab a small bag of thinset which you mix with water or some will require an extra additive which will be where ever you go for the thin set. You can get this stuff at Home Depot or Lowes while your there I 'd grab a trowel with 3/8 knotch spacers and your grout. Hopefully all of the peices were full peices. If not your gonna have to borrow a hand held maquita or cutter or saw. Make sure your rows with trowel are even with through out your spread. If you are using thinset, you have to apply thinset to wall and tile. Obviously you stick the tile first grab some sort of extra scrap to spread them appropriately. Wait a day for the thinset to set up and the next day pull out your wedges or spacers and grout. Good luck. Chic
- Q: we are constructing apartment....got a question about tile work..which is better, is it better to leave some gaps between tiles and is it better layout tiles with no gaps between them...the builder is suggesting the first option above...i prefer the second option...because with the first option, i feel there are chances of dirt getting clogged as time passess by...please advise
- Use glased tiles.There will be no gap.
- Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
- Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
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Polished Porcelain Tile The Soluble salt white Color CMAXSB0520
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1382.4
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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