Polished Porcelain Tile The Soluble salt white Color CMAXSB0520

Polished Porcelain Tile The Soluble salt white Color CMAXSB0520

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1382.4

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m²/month

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Product Features Polished Porcelain Tile The Soluble salt white Color CMAXSB0520:

Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

Only Grade AAA available

Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast delivery

OEM service could be offered

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Glossiness: 》 85 Degree

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Polished Porcelain Tile The Soluble salt white Color CMAXSB0520

FAQ

1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

2. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q:Foreign ceramic tile brand: Italian Brand: Spider, Bee, Douglas Tile, Van Szes Tile, FLOORGRES Tile, Amy Tile, KEOPE Tile, Bardelli (Famous for Films) Spanish Brand: TAU Tile, AB Tile, Yasuoli Tile, AZULEV, MagicoGres UAE Brand: Raja (RAK) Hungarian Brand: Herend But those so-called purely imported ceramic tiles are purely deceptive, most of them are set up in China's production base, with China's raw materials, but the production process is different, strong packaging, good-looking Bale. Think with a stupid, a tiles much more ah, sea, then the risk, high cost, and handling is extremely difficult

Q:Kent has a 2-ft by 2-ft square floor to cover with tiles. He has 38 tiles. Twelve of the tiles are 4-inch by 4-inch squares, ten are 4-inch by 8-inch rectangles, and the remaining 16 are 2-inch by 8-inch right triangles. What is the smallest number of pieces Kent can have left over after covering the floor? Please show your work if possible (like steps etc) You can solve it as a Geometry or in Algebric way which ever works for you. Thankyou To All That Solves!: this is a gay question

Q:The tile in our master bathroom is really ugly, but my husband likes the acual tiles themselves. The house was built in 1978 and the colors show bigtime. My question is this; can I paint the tiles a different color or am I just stuck with really ugly tiles until get a ton of money? If I were able to, how would I do this? Thanks in advance!: You can re-glaze tile as an alternative to replacing it, but it is VERY time-consuming and complicated to do and won't be that much cheaper than replacing. Plus you'll only be able to have a solid color instead of these beautiful stone tiles that are becoming more popular. Better to wait until you have the money to spend on nice tiles.

Q:Why should a piece of tile stickers, why can not once on the ground to do a piece of tiles: A piece of easy to break is how to get the room? If a little bit how to do a piece of words can be changed

Q:I‘m thinking about having a bathroom tiled. The bathroom is about 6 by 8 and right now the walls have a horrible pink and black alternating ceramic tile that goes up about 4 feet on the wall all the way around. All I want to do is replace this tile with a glass tile. I have no idea what the cost would be for materials and labor so any estimates would be appreciated. This is the only work I need done.: One way to lower your costs would be to do the tile demolition yourself and then buy a less expensive field tile for most of the walls and add in the higher priced glass tiles in random places or to form a pattern in a special place-- say above the sink or around the shower head area, etc. Do you really want that much glass tile?

Q:I‘m installing a kitchen back splash of 1 x 1 glass tile. Right now there is drywall where the tile will be. I‘ve read that it is better to use cement backing board as a substrate. Is this really necessary or can I just use thin-set to mount the tile directly to the drywall and then grout as usual? Thanks for your help!: Drywall is a suitable substrate for the glass tile. You want to make sure that the drywall is clean, wipe it down with mineral spirits. Next you will want to mark a level line. 1 glass tiles are fairly heavy when mounted on a 12 mesh sheet, and will tend to sag. This level line will be the top mark of your lower sheet. After you have your line either drawn or chalked, you will want to use a glass tile specific mortar, such as Mapei Adesilex P10. This is a non sagging mortar with a bright white color to allow the glass color to pop. Be sure to follow the mixing instruction to get the best performance, and only mix as much as you can use in a short period of time. Glass tiles are great for backsplashes because of the ease of maintenance, so make sure to use a grout that give you the same performance. Mapei has Opticolor grouts which are stain-free, but offer the same installation as regular grout. Last bit of advice is to be patient, work at your own pace, and step back every other sheet to make sure it looks good as you go.

Q:How easy is it to tile a kitchen floor. Plus would you lay the tiles directly onto the concrete sub floor or lay concrete boards or chipboards underneath. I would also like to continue this to the hallway and under stairs. Thanks.: Depending on the age of the cement subfloor, it would be my first choice, even if I had to prep it first to insure a good bond. Definitely not cement board, it's not designed or engineered to be walked on, the results downstream would be disastrous. There is a grade of board specifically called underlayment, and it would be my second choice. It needs to be nailed down to cement subfloor about every 6 inches in both directions, very tedious. Not so bad on wood, can be screwed down.This is not hard job, just hard work. Hands and knees, get up to cut a piece, back down to hands and knees. Spread mortar or adhesive, set tile, check for level, spread - set - level, over and over. And level in both directions, North - South, and East - West, and level from tile to tile as well. Really good tile setters make very good money. Very important for you to know: floor tile is thicker than wall tile. It should be 3/8 inch minimum, or 9 mm. Wall tile is generally thinner, and will crack under the stress of weight on it.

Q:I need matching vinyl tiles for my kitchen floor. they‘re about 18x18 inch. I only need about 6 of them. is it possible to have a company match the design of tile and custom make me new ones, or a company that can match them?: If you do not put it down effectively/flawlessly, sure, it is going to start peeling up at the corners slightly soon. While you'll be tempted to lay it down on top of the vinyl floor you have already got, this may increasingly make sure a vulnerable bond and create two failure facets - the adhesive on the new tile, or the adhesive on the ancient vinyl. If that you could stomach the extra work, pulling up the historical vinyl is the only technique to make the new stuff final. For an awfully small investment of round $30 which you could pick up a floor publication at your nearby ironmongery shop. While you consider the time, effort and cash involved in dwelling rennovations, these books are valuable. Excellent success!

Q:My granddaughter dropped a hard toy while being held by her Mom. It put a quarter size hole in the center of my ceramic tile. How can I go about filling this hole?: theres really no way to effectively patch a hole in ceramic,the best way to fix it is to replace it,sorry. repairing a floor tile in a high traffic area such as the kitchen is not a good idea,ceramic has sharp edges when broken and it can and will slice your feet open.I strongly suggest replacing the tile,especially with a little one around.

Q:I ripped up all the existing tile, it was small tiles that I had to chisel up. There is quite a bit of thinset that is bonded to the wood floor and its impossible to get it all up. If I try and chisel it all off I end up ripping up the wood and making it worse.I think the wood sub floor is sitting on another older piece of sub floor but i‘m not sure.What are my options here?- put cement board over it (do i need to put waterproof membrane?) and then tile it? If I do this the bathroom floor will be slightly higher then the hallway floor.- Can I use self leveler on the wood subfloor and then tile over it? it would probably be the ideal height.- Do I chance ripping up the subfloor and doing cement board and then tile?Am I missing any other options?: In the UK tile adhesive is made for cement and wooden floors combined as this has a latex type compound in it that makes it harden but stay pliable as well to allow for a bit of movement under the tile. If you have cleaned most of your thinset off and are left with some still on but not higher than say 4mm (preferably less) then I would say just to lay the tiles as if the floor was completely clean. If worried about how to lay the adhesive on an uneven floor do what I have done which is to apply the adhesive to the back of the tile first, using a tile cement applicator with ridges deeper than the high points of the thinset, flip the tile over and lay/tap/level into position. Don't walk on for 36 hrs minimum after laying.

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