• Polished Porcelain Tile The Line Stone White Colo CMAX 0895 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile The Line Stone White Colo CMAX 0895 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile The Line Stone White Colo CMAX 0895

Polished Porcelain Tile The Line Stone White Colo CMAX 0895

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 m²
Supply Capability:
100000000 m²/month

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Specifications of Porcelain Tile

 

1.Polished porcelain tile

2.Great natural stone image and high glossy degree

3.Water absorption:<0.5%< p="">

4.Sizes: 600 x 600mm or 800 x 800mm

6.Product features: resistance to fading, staining and discoloration, easy to clean

7.Package: carton + strong wooden pallet

8.Transportation: by sea

9.Package: 4 pcs/Ctn for 600mm; 3 pcs/Ctn for 800mm

 


Applications of Porcelain Tile

 

1.Suitable for homes flooring tiles

2.high grade office buildings

3. high-grade hotel flooring tiles,

4.government and corporate projects flooring tiles

5.deluxe clubs flooring and wall tiles

 


Pictures of porcelain tiles

 

Polished Porcelain Tile The Line Stone White Colo CMAX 0895

Polished Porcelain Tile The Line Stone White Colo CMAX 0895


 

Advantages of porcelain tile


 

  • Green Product

  • Guarantee/Warranty

  • International Approvals

  • Packaging

  • Price

  • Product Features

  • Product Performance

  • Prompt Delivery

  • Quality Approvals

  • Reputation

  • Service

 

Main Export Markets:


 

  • Asia

  • Australasia

  • Central/South America

  • Eastern Europe

  • Mid East/Africa

  • North America

  • Western Europe

     

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

 

 

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Looking forward to receiving your inquiry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: I laid a new porcelain tile floor in my bathroom. Old linoleum tile floor was in good shape so I just laid right over the top of it. All turned out well except around the toilet. Two of the tile cracked when I screwed the toilet back down to the floor. Obviously I‘ll have to pull the toilet again, remove cracked tiles and start over....but how to I avoid the cracks again?
jac...dee, there are several reasons the tile could have cracked, but I wouldn't categorically state that the tile cracked around the toilet because you put tile over linoleum. It just depends on how stable the linoleum was when you put the tile over it. I've have tiled over lino and and it's going on 5 years without any problem. So, if the lino was in good condition, that's not the problem. I'm wondering if maybe you applied too much pressure by screwing the toilet screws down too tightly. It's a common mistake. You should only snug up the toilet screws and not over-tighten. You could cut out the linoleum around the floor in the area of the lino as someone else suggested. But if it's in good condition and lays flat, it shouldn't be a problem. Still, to be safe, maybe cut it away but then add a bit more mortar to ensure the tile is the same height as the rest of the tiled floor. Still, I would avoid tightening the toilet too tight. Only snug! good luck
Q: I have ten 4x4 ceramic tile that I cannot find new. What is an easy way to clean the backs off so I can re-use them?
There are two different ways i know if to set ceramic tile, one is essentially to use a grout, the second is to use a glue. I suspect the hardened glue would present more of a problem than the grout. Someone has already mentioned a chisel, which is worth a try but you have to be gentle and have the front of the tile clamped on a surface such as a newspaper to protect the face of the tile from abrasion. The second might be the use of a high speed rotary tool. Since I owned one of those I have found innumerable uses for it. Usually you can get a bag of bits that includes a small sanding drum with sanding sleeves that go on the drum. This is also worth a try and would not risk breaking the tile. Avoid sanding to the point where the tile gets real hot though to avoid breaking it with thermal stresses. If it is a glue on the back you could still try the chisel or the rotary tool, but if that didn't work you could try a few high end solvents like acetone or xylene to see if that would soften the hardened glue. Perhaps even soaking them in oil for a week or so would soften the glue. good luck
Q: I just can‘t figure out how to get the holes through them to string them on the bracelet.I have a drill, but no access to a vice or clamp. It‘s also a really old drill and the bit looks bent. I just tried hammering holes in with nails, but it wouldn‘t even go in very far before splintering the tile.What do I do??
I use a very fine drill bit and a Dremel tool. You need line up your holes and mark them on either side of the scrabble tile. Then you drill about half way in from each side. This lessens your chances of drilling through at an angle and ruining your tile. You need to be very careful and use a vise or clamp so you do not injure yourself. If you need a new drill bit, get a very small bit. You might even take a scrabble tile with you to be sure the drill bit is small enough. You cannot use a nail as it puts too much pressure on the wood and it will split on you every time.
Q: I have an on going problem in my kitchen. Same time tile floor was done in our home but kitchen is the problem. It was done 3-4 years ago by a contractor, however he never showed up his face to help us. He left some grout with us and said if ever the grout pops up then we can mix it in the water and fill with this mixture. The grout from the kitchen floor always comes out. Underneath, the kitchen is wood floor. The kitchen is on the second floor. Our family room is also on the second level but no problem to that floor Please help.
Flexible Tile Grout
Q: I keep hearing that tile showers are a real chore to keep clean. I bought some tile sealer, and grout sealer. Will this help out significantly? How often should I reapply? Any other tips I should know about while it‘s still a virgin shower before it‘s too late?
I can say I sealed my grout with a aerosol spray grout and it worked great. Make sure you do it twice.
Q: The logistics of maintaining my marble tile should be an important consideration when choosing what kind of tile I wish to install. Acidic cleaners can etch the tile, which will then need to be repaired, so watch out for them.How can I Maintain my tile and keep it clean with the proper solutions once it is installed?
There are belowing guidances need to be taken into consideration while maintaining marble tiles: 1Use a dampened sponge mop without cleaner to clean the tile on a daily basis. 2On a weekly basis, use a different sponge mop with a marble cleaner to mop the tile. 3On a quarterly basis, apply a marble sealer made of polymer resin. 4Use painter's tape to tape around the edges of the tile. 5Mop the tile with a dampened sponge mop to remove any dust or debris. 6Following the manufacturer's directions, pour a small amount of a polymer resin into a disposable cup. Pour the polymer resin over the tile, using the paint spreader to push it back into an even layer. 7Allow the polymer resin sealer to dry according the manufacturer's directions.
Q: We have recently had our bathroom refitted, and tiled floor to ceiling with large ceramic tiles in a brick pattern. However now finished it is obvious that they are uneven. The tiler said it is the tiles. Is this likely or is it just a bodged job - he re-platerboarded the walls prior to tiling so they should be flat?
From what I understand, I'd install either waterproof drywall or regular which you can then seal. You can shim the drywall out where the gap is with furring strips. This will give you a straight surface to put your tile on. This assumes the drywall butts into a corner. You can't put tile on an uneven surface as it just magnifies the unevenness. You might be able to put a molding on to cover the gap. That sounds the easiest and cheapest. Take a picture and show it to some one at a tile store or at a hardware store and they might be able to help.
Q: I had asked the guy I am seeing to go somewhere with me tonight and he said he had to prep the floor before laying the tile? He has been working on a flooring job, but what do you do to prep a floor? Is this the same whether with tiles or hardwood?
You need to put down rock board before the tile, unless it is a cement floor then you need to make sure it is clean and level. If it isn't level you can purchase some leveling material to pour and smooth over the floor. As for hardwood? There is an underlayment for hardwood, you can use the manufacturers product or just use 30lb felt paper (roofing felt)
Q: We have small ceramic tiles on our bathroom floor. They are varied in shape and size (see photo).I think that these tiles originally came with some sort of netting on the back when they laid the floor and they added grout? I believe I saw some extra tiling somewhere in our home and this is what I had found.Anyway, the grout is breaking up between some of the tiles and some of the tiles keep popping out. I have two questions, If I regrout them do I put it on the bottom of the tile too and does that make the tile adhere to the floor?How would I get the grout to match what‘s already there, it‘s a medium brown gray. Not sure if it started out that way or became like that over the years. Would it look funny if the grout didn‘t match? How could I get it to match?
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Q: Is there a site you know that would be helpful for this. I am going to be doingthe kitchen walls, no back splash from counter. Tile will start at counter go up to bottom of cabinets.I was thinking of using a regular tile then half way up putting a 6 inch strip of glass tile, they are smaller really add SPUNK! lol I need some pointers on doing it though. Or any tips you might have.THANKS!
It's a great look you are going to love it!! Here's what I know. Buy the triangular wedges type spacers. The will hold the tiles up in position better than the X type. you pull these out once the tile is set. Be sure that you start your accent pieces directly 1/2 space over from your tiles, you don't want the lines to accidentally match up, that just blows the whole line appeal out of the park. So cut your first accent so that it ends in the middle of your lower tile. That should give you the proper off set. Be sure to use mastic especially designed for wall applications. Standing up on the wall, it must be more stiff from the start than your flat surfaces. Same goes for the grout, mix it just a tad more firm than you'd like to work with, it will stay up better. Nothing worse than the grout running down. That's all I know. I've done it a few times and am always so proud. What a savings!!

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