Nickel Alloy Inconel 625 (UNS N06625) High strength
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m/month
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Characteristic as below:
1. Excellent corrosion resistance of different kinds of media in both oxidation and reduction environments.
2. Excellent resistance of pitting and crevice corrosion, and won't happen stress corrosion cracking because of chloride.
3. Excellent resistance of the inorganic acid corrosion performance, such as nitric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid and the mixture of sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid.
4. Excellent corrosion resistance of different kinds of inorganic acid mixture performance.
5. Good corrosion resistance of a variety of concentrations of hydrochloric acid.
6. Good machining and welding, no weld cracking sensitivity.
7. Have pressure vessel authentication for the wall temperature between -196 ~ 450º C.
Inconel 625 Metallurgical structure
625 is face-centered cubic lattice structure. Dissolve out the carbon granule and instability quaternary phase, then change it to stability Ni3 (Nb, Ti) trimetric lattice around 650º C after a long time heat preservation. Nickel-chromium content will strength the mechanical performance in the state solution while suppress the plasticity.
Inconel 625 Corrosion resistance
625 own a very good corrosion resistance in many media, especially with excellent resistance to pitting, crevice corrosion, intercrystalline corrosion, and erode in oxide, also good resistance to inorganic acid corrosion, such as nitric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. 625 can resist the alkali and organic acid corrosion in the oxidation and reduction environment. Effect resists the chloride reduction stress corrosion cracking. Normally no corrosion in the sea-water and industry environments since high corrosion resistance to the sea-water and salting liquid, as well as in high temperature, without sensitivity during welding. 625 have the resistance to oxidation and carbonizing in the static and cycle environments, also hacve the resistance the chlorine corrosion.
Inconel 625 Application field:
Soften annealing low carbon alloy 625 widely used in the chemical process industry, good corrosion resistance and high strength made it an good choice for structural parts. 625 have application in sea-water for local mechanical stress attach.
Inconel 625 Typical application field as below:
1. The Organic chemical process parts contains chloride, especially in the use of acid chloride catalyst.
2. The digester and bleacherin the use of paper pulp and paper making industry.
3. Absorption tower, re-heater, gas import board, fan, blender, fair water fin, flue and so on for using in flue gas desulfurization system.
4. The equipment and parts in the use of acidic gas environments.
5. Acetic acid and anhydride reaction generator
6. Sulfur acid cooling
PACKING
Specification: Plate, sheet, strip, rod, bar, wire, tube.
Before you send us a inquiry, please confirm the following information
1. Alloy grade
2. Dimensions of the alloys
3. Surface requirements
4. Size tolerance requirement
5. Quantities
6. Package request
7. Specific end use
8. Other information that may be useful in supplying the most suitable products
| Alloy | % | Ni | Cr | Mo | Nb+N | Fe | Al | Ti | C | Mn | Si | Cu | P | S |
| 625 | Min. | 58 | 20 | 8 | 3.15 | |||||||||
| Max. | 23 | 10 | 4.15 | 5 | 0.4 | 0.4 | 0.1 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.015 | 0.015 |
Inconel 625 Pysical properties
| Density | 8.4 g/cm³ |
| Melting point | 1290-1350ºC |
Inconel 625 Alloy m inimum mechanical properties in the room temperature
| Alloy state | Tensile strength Rm N/mm² | Yield strength R P0. 2N/mm² | Elongation A 5 % | Brinell hardness HB |
| 625 | 760 | 345 | 30 | ≤220 |
- Q: how many wires are allowed in a standard outlet box (i believe 3x2 1/2 deep). what do you do if you need more wires than are allowed?how many wires are allowed if i gang 2 boxes?i live in ontario, canada. thanks
- In the US by the NEC, it depends on the size of the wires. 14 ga it is 2 cubic inches per conductor. 12 ga it is 2.25, and 10 is 2.5 cubic inches per conductor. Your box is 3 cubic inches if you measured it right so you can only put 1 14 wire in it. Since you seem unsure of what you are trying to do with box fill, call a qualified professional electrician to do the work.
- Q: As the new electric heater wire is too short, can not receive the original 16A socket, so want to wire long, I ask you: 1. How to make a long time can be relatively safe? (Seeking connection method) 2. In the original socket plus What kind of dragline board? (Please recommend the brand and model) 3. Which method is better? Thank you! More
- With the wire stripping 5-6 cm it, in the exposed about 1 cm to take together, and then around each other, one to the other side of the remaining one on the split around. The wire is made of one or several soft wires, with a soft jacket; the cable is made of one or several insulated packets, and the outer layer is covered with a tough outer layer of metal or rubber. Cables and wires are generally made up of three parts: core wire, insulated foreskin and protective sheath. Commonly used cable features are as follows: CEF - EPR insulated neoprene jacket, marine flame retardant power cable. CVV - PVC insulated, PVC sheathed marine flame retardant power cable. OVC cable commonly used BV, BX, RV, RVV series of wires, including: BV - copper core PVC insulated wire, long-term allowable temperature 65 ℃, the minimum temperature -15 ℃, working voltage AC 500V, DC 1000V, fixed laying In the room, the outside can be deposited can also be deposited.
- Q: I have 4 consecutive 110v outlets that are only receiving 82v and the receptacles are not working. I tested them with a multimeter. I tested from both the receptacle and the wiring to the receptacle. What do i need to do to resolve this. The breaker isnt tripped, and the fuses are good. I have checked switches- to see if maybe one needs to remain on for the string of outlets to work, but there doesnt seem to be one tied into them. it is 4 outlets on one side of the living room. no gfi to reset. the house was built in the mid -90's. as far as i know-- there has been no hack job engineering done before i moved in. i bought the place from original owner, and they said its original wiring. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
- Great answer from 'mermeliz'. Please reward it with 10 points. I agree with the probable culprit. Here is a method to find the problem. Not 100% guaranteed, but works almost all of the time. If it doesn't, you will be stuck opening each receptacle on the circuit until you find the problem. Turn on all of your non-working lights and plug lamps into any non-working receptacles. Make sure that any computers, or other sensitive electronics are not plugged into this circuit. Take a lamp or an extension cord around to the all of the receptacles on this circuit. DON'T rule out the working receptacles either. Try them too. Plug it in and wiggle the plug (hard enough to wiggle the receptacle too). You will probably find one where doing this suddenly causes your non-working lights/receptacles to come back to life. This will be your culprit. As 'mermeliz' correctly stated, a lot of homes are wired with receptacles using 'stab-in-the-back' connections. These are actually still in use and are deemed safe for installation. The problem is that they have a terrible failure rate. The term 'stab-in-the-back' also applies to what they do to you later. Any replacement should have screw terminal connections.
- Q: Home improvement, the wire specifications generally how to choose? Lighting, sockets, air conditioning with a few square lines? Ground specifications can be lighter than the line of fire, zero line?
- Roof can not open too deep, itself is not allowed. And then said that you do not install the rules, you still use the fine point of the wax tube, fire is not waterproof. Do not listen to what they say can not do it. Remember what time to install the lights when the wire hit the line.
- Q: I have removed all the plaster and lath from a wall that has two windows in it. The wall is in my study and the other side of the wall is an exterior wall on my porch. It now has one electrical outlet between the two windows. That electrical outlet also has an outdoor outlet on the other side of the wallwired to it. Before I insulate and wallboard the wall I would like to remove the single outlet, keep the exterior outlet and wire two outlets into the wall, one under each window.My previous wiring experience is with wiring lighting fixtures.Any help would be much appreciated and thank you in advance for your help.
- this will be easy to do. first you should count the number of outlets on that circuit. you have to make sure that the addition of this one receptacle will be within the range of the existing breaker. should you need to change the breaker to a higher rated one i Strongly recommend using a licensed electrician. from the existing hole where the receptacle is between the windows install a wall box to make the connections in. pull the hot wire from this wall box to feed the receptacle on the left. wire up one side of the plug. from the other side of that plug go back to the wall box and wire up the outdoor plug. piggyback off the outdoor plug and wire up the plug on the right side of the room. maker sure the outdoor plug is GFIC rated and has a rain tight enclosure. hope this helps.
- Q: anything in particular to worry about? besides killing myself. I bought the plug w/ the 3 loose wires sticking out as well as the new hot water line and elbow to replace the current copper line. the middle one looks like the green (ground) but i can't tell which one is the black or white one, they all have metal tips. Also, do i have to have the little plastic tops to twist the wires together? or electrical tape sufficient?
- Use wire nuts, NOT JUST TAPE. Invest in an inexpensive tester to determine which one is the hot lead - that connects to the black wire. To be safe, why not call a local handyman who has done this before if you are unsure? Water and electricity don't mix, especially if you miss grounding the unit or incorrectly switching the hot and neutral.
- Q: Does anyone know what the voltage means on electrical wire sheathing? Some 14AWG wires show 600V and others are 800V.I have a burnt wire that shows 1000V.They are all 14AWG, stranded, copper wire. I just don't know what the voltage rating means. Does the wire support up to that many volts or does the sheath resist heat better the higher the number is?
- The voltage shown is the maximum that the insulation can handle. Different types and thicknesses can handle different voltages before failing. Wires are burnt by current, not voltage.
- Q: I had a space heater on in a bedroom. I know, dumb idea, but it was plugged in to a power strip, which was plugged into a standard outlet. It was on for about 30 minutes. Then, it just shut off. I thought nothing of it, but when i unplugged the heater and later tried to plug other things into the power strip, the light on the power strip was on (the one that is always on if the strip is getting power), but nothing plugged in would work, even after resetting it. My house s circuit breaker did not trip. After unplugging the power strip, the outlet still works if I plug somethig in. This is probably insanely paranoid of me, but could this cause damage to my home s electrical wiring? Could this cause an electrical fire after everything has been unplugged?Thank you.
- It can not burn out the wiring without blowing the fuse. Space heaters operate at 120 which means the current is twice as great as at 240, therefore twice as much potential to overheat the wire. A space heater is about 1500 watts.At 15 amp service you have 1800 watts on the entire branch.
- Q: I want to put electrical tape on the spark plug wires in my car, to make them look better. My plan is to just put colored tape around each wire to beautify my engine bay. Anyone see any problems with this? Please and thanks!
- When the tape comes off,and it will come off,then you have to ask yourself what do I do when a whole bunch of electrical tape gets into my serpentine belt .I think a piece got into my alternater too. Or What's that smell? because the tape is on your exhaust pipe,perhaps on fire. Yet,if you want to do this you should rub silicone over the ends on both ends to help the tape not to fall off.And do not not buy budget or dollar store tape. Just a few thoughts .
- Q: I have a single closet light that I need to extend about 3 feet. I've already bought the junction boxes, wire nuts, and wire retaining pins.However, I bought 14/2 wire, and I've noticed the wire I plan to extend says 12/2 on it. Is this a problem? Should I return it and get 12/2 so it matches exactly, or will it work okay? What's the difference anyway?Thanks
- Electrical wire comes in different gauges, the lower the number the heavier the gauge. The lower the number the more amperage the wire can deliver safely. For instance if you wire up something that requires a 12 gauge and use 14 gauge you could over heat the wire and cause a fire. However extending 3 feet of 14 gauge from a juction box that has a 12 gauge input would be safe for a closet light. 14/2 on the wire means that there is 2 wires ( one black and one white at gauge 14 ) it will also have a copper ground wire.
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Nickel Alloy Inconel 625 (UNS N06625) High strength
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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