• Nickel Alloy Inconel 625 (UNS N06625) High strength System 1
Nickel Alloy Inconel 625 (UNS N06625) High strength

Nickel Alloy Inconel 625 (UNS N06625) High strength

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m
Supply Capability:
1000000 m/month

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Characteristic as below:
1. Excellent corrosion resistance of different kinds of media in both oxidation and reduction environments.
2. Excellent resistance of pitting and crevice corrosion, and won't happen stress corrosion cracking because of chloride.
3. Excellent resistance of the inorganic acid corrosion performance, such as nitric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid and the mixture of sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid.
4. Excellent corrosion resistance of different kinds of inorganic acid mixture performance.
5. Good corrosion resistance of a variety of concentrations of hydrochloric acid.
6. Good machining and welding, no weld cracking sensitivity.
7. Have pressure vessel authentication for the wall temperature between -196 ~ 450º C.

Inconel 625 Metallurgical structure
625 is face-centered cubic lattice structure. Dissolve out the carbon granule and instability quaternary phase, then change it to stability Ni3 (Nb, Ti) trimetric lattice around 650º C after a long time heat preservation. Nickel-chromium content will strength the mechanical performance in the state solution while suppress the plasticity.

Inconel 625 Corrosion resistance
625 own a very good corrosion resistance in many media, especially with excellent resistance to pitting, crevice corrosion, intercrystalline corrosion, and erode in oxide, also good resistance to inorganic acid corrosion, such as nitric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. 625 can resist the alkali and organic acid corrosion in the oxidation and reduction environment. Effect resists the chloride reduction stress corrosion cracking. Normally no corrosion in the sea-water and industry environments since high corrosion resistance to the sea-water and salting liquid, as well as in high temperature, without sensitivity during welding. 625 have the resistance to oxidation and carbonizing in the static and cycle environments, also hacve the resistance the chlorine corrosion.

Inconel 625 Application field:
Soften annealing low carbon alloy 625 widely used in the chemical process industry, good corrosion resistance and high strength made it an good choice for structural parts. 625 have application in sea-water for local mechanical stress attach.

Inconel 625 Typical application field as below:
1. The Organic chemical process parts contains chloride, especially in the use of acid chloride catalyst.
2. The digester and bleacherin the use of paper pulp and paper making industry.
3. Absorption tower, re-heater, gas import board, fan, blender, fair water fin, flue and so on for using in flue gas desulfurization system.
4. The equipment and parts in the use of acidic gas environments.
5. Acetic acid and anhydride reaction generator
6. Sulfur acid cooling

China Manufacturer Nickel Alloy Inconel 625 (UNS N06625)



PACKING

Specification: Plate, sheet, strip, rod, bar, wire, tube.
 

Before you send us a inquiry, please confirm the following information
1. Alloy grade      
2. Dimensions of the alloys   
3. Surface requirements                                 
4. Size tolerance requirement    
5. Quantities                                            
6. Package request  
7. Specific end use                                        
8. Other information that may be useful in supplying the most suitable products

Alloy%NiCrMoNb+NFeAlTiCMnSiCuPS
625Min.582083.15








Max.
23104.1550.40.40.10.50.50.50.0150.015


Inconel 625 Pysical properties

Density8.4 g/cm³
Melting point1290-1350ºC


Inconel 625 Alloy m inimum mechanical properties in the room temperature

Alloy stateTensile strength
Rm N/mm²
Yield strength
R P0. 2N/mm²
Elongation
A 5 %
Brinell hardness
HB
62576034530≤220


Q: Ihave a 19 gallon, electric, 120v water heater. Can I splice the two wires in it to an electrical cord that I can plug into a normal wall outlet? If so, can you tell me how, or direct me to a website which explains the process?
Yes.But make sure the cord is heavy enough to carry the amperage that is required for the water heater.There's a plaque with the volts and amps on there some where. One amp equals 100 watts. Make sure and use a 3 prong plug and be sure and attach the ground to the frame of the heater. The other 2 wires should be color coded but it doesn't matter which way you attach those.Also, make sure the outlet you use has a large enough breaker to handle the load.
Q: I was doing some renovating on a house I just purchased and was taking apart the ceiling to work on some electrical wiring. As I removed the ceiling, I found mouse droppings in the ceiling. I took down the entire ceiling and found there are place where the mice chewed through the insulation and I have a bare wire. Is there a way to repair the wire or should I replace the wire? Thanks.
I would do it right the first time, doing a second rate job on your own house would say that you don't care enough for your family or friends, and besides you will always have it in the back of your mind and it will add stress to yourself later on. your conscience will say, is it really ok, maybe I should open it back up and do it right, when will i get the time, do I have enough money, and so on and so on. and because of this is why people get into trouble working on their house. Say to yourself this, If I gona do one job right in this house, it's gona be this one. And every time you do a project say this to yourself. It is cheaper in the long run and much more safer.
Q: Electrical wiring for a school building or swimming pool
Engineer is not allowed to do this type of work for school because he is not qualified as an electrician. About $60 per hour charge by electrician.
Q: Wire and cable models WDZD-BYJ and WDZB-YJY What is the difference between seeking prawn answer!
Red and blue for the DVD component input. In the back of the DVD component output interface. Press the corresponding color connection. Red and white for the composite video interface. Yellow for the video. Red for the right channel. White for the left channel. (Or S terminal) is connected to the TV. Since the DVD component output (or S terminal) is not audio, so you need to connect an audio cable, the DVD's right channel output cable Connect the video output of the satellite receiver (DVB-S or ABS-S) to the TV's video input (yellow jack). The satellite receiver's left channel (red jack) Output the left channel input (white jack) connected to the TV. Note that the mixer's mixer output is selected: right channel / right channel mode. (There are three output modes: left channel / left channel Mode Right channel / right channel mode Stereo mode: Left channel / Right channel mode) Select DVD mode (or S terminal mode) when watching DVD. Select AV (video) mode when watching satellite TV (general The satellite receives very few component outputs and S-terminal outputs. There are individual satellites connected If there is a cable input that can be directly connected to the TV, you can search for a TV.) When you watch a cable TV, you can select TV mode. The TV's composite video output is for connecting other machines Designed (such as connecting a video recorder or burner) is not useful here.
Q: First off, I apologize for my ignorance; I'm new at this. Does electrical wire (12 gauge for example), come as a single wire? For example, if I'm installing a 20A outlet 40 feet away from the breaker, do I need 40 or 80 feet of 12 gauge wire?It is my understanding that each outlet needs a (+) and (-) wire, as well as a grounding wire. Is this correct?Thanks for your help!
If there's netural already in the box ,then you just need a single hot wire 40 feet tall to the out let ,but if there's no neutral and ground ,then you need to install a neutral and ground from closer junction box or electrical box to order of having function electrical box . This is not necessarily for neutral to be directly from the main electrical box ,but power source must be directly from the breaker to the electrical box and for 20 Amp with that distance you should use the wire gauge #10 . If wiring is in the conduit pipe ,then you will see two wires white and black ,which you jusy will replace the black wire and if there be short between the hot and neutral ,then you must replace both wires as long as they are .
Q: I now live in the old house, the circuit is often bad, the lights for a change and one, it is said that the aging of the circuit is not safe, but I immediately want to move a new house, do not intend to re-decoration here. But how long will the new house circuit aging? Aged to dig all the holes in the wall? That is it not white decoration? Question added: how many years is expected to need the whole line? Often heard that the circuit aging fire, I would like to prevent in the past ah! More
The wire design life is 20 years. As long as the load below the safe carrying capacity, there is no need to replace. But the old house of the wire is considered by the load at the time, and now more and more appliances, the load will be more and more. Only to understand the current capacity of the wire in order to finally decide whether to change the line.
Q: I need to connect 2 wires.First wire has 4 colours. Red, Blue, White, Green.the Second wire has two colours, Black Brown.How do I join the two wires together?
Just what are you trying to supply power to? Red and Blue are typically hot wires, White for neutral and Green is for ground in home circuitry. Black is for hot and brown is neutral going to ground on motorcycles and vehicles. Don't remember ever seeing brown wires for home circuits. If messing with a ceiling fan then attach the Red, Blue and Black together, then the White with the Brown. The Green should attach to a screw bolt on the fan hanger. Then turn on the switch to see if it works or goes snap, crackle and pop. You need to explain just what you're messing with for a more concise answer.
Q: I had a space heater on in a bedroom. I know, dumb idea, but it was plugged in to a power strip, which was plugged into a standard outlet. It was on for about 30 minutes. Then, it just shut off. I thought nothing of it, but when i unplugged the heater and later tried to plug other things into the power strip, the light on the power strip was on (the one that is always on if the strip is getting power), but nothing plugged in would work, even after resetting it. My house s circuit breaker did not trip. After unplugging the power strip, the outlet still works if I plug somethig in. This is probably insanely paranoid of me, but could this cause damage to my home s electrical wiring? Could this cause an electrical fire after everything has been unplugged?Thank you.
Yes space heaters can. it isn't common but may be possible. Surge protectors aren't extention cords they are a device to protect electronic devices from an electrical over charge or surge. So under high wattage use will fry the electrical connections in the protector. That's probably what happened here. Other times they can catch fire and maybe a small explosion. The largest electric space heaters are around 1500w and draw about 12 amps. Most home outlets are rated at 15A or even 20A. So in good working order most heaters won't hurt an outlet or wiring if that is the only thing on that breaker. If things do go higher the breaker should trip and cut power. If the breaker is old or damaged it may not trip and then somethings gotta give next either the outlet or the wiring normally it's the plug but if two things on two plugs the wire may catch fire. also don't use cheap extention cords they will catch fire you can use extention cords but rated at least 14G for 15A or 12G for 20A.
Q: i have tail lights and a right hand turn signal,there is juice getting through the wires. but i have no brake lights. it is a 83 olds. where do i look, or how do i solve this?
Not to be a jerk, but how about the bulb(s)? Other than that, make sure you have a solid ground. I'm not familiar with your model, but maybe it's trying to get ground through a rusty connection to the body or something like that. Good luck.
Q: A couple of weeks ago the e-brake light and another light in our '89 Toyota Celica came on the dash and started flashing even though the e-brake wasn't on. Then a day or two later my husband was turning a corner and gunned it and when it got to the point where he needed to shift the dash lights and headlights and radio all went out. Everything but the headlights came back on within seconds. Now the e-brake light the other light next to it stay on; the break lights, tail lights, fog lights and turn signals all work, but the headlights won't come on and the radio cuts out when the rpm gauge gets to the point where we need to shift. My husband checked the fuses and none were blown. Is this an electrical or wiring problem or could it be something else?
This sounds like an OBD-II problem. Can you take your car to a shop where they will check the computer for diagnostic fault codes. It may be that you have a faulty relay or something simple like a burned out light bulb.

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