Hot Selling Glazed Porcelain Tiles

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Supply Capability:: 1000 pc/month

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specifictions

• 1. various sizes are available;

• 2. More than 100 design andcolors;

• 3. Both waterproof and nonwaterproof available;

• 4. Strict control on colortolerance;

• 5. Perfect effect on flatness andglazed surface;

• 6. Ink-Jet technology applicationon the tiles

• 7. Stable production andsupplying;

• 8. Competitive price and paymentterm

• 9. Stable production andsupplying;

• 10. Suitable for economic endusing;

Q:How to paste tiles better: Paste Tile Method In a large area kitchen or open kitchen, you can only hang the cabinet below the console above the space, so that both to meet the functional needs, there are more changes. The combination of basic paving methods. The most common paving method is the tile to the straight shop, the rectangular wall can be vertical or playing the horizontal shop, slanting is also a usual skill, the effect is very good, but only applies to square tiles, some people like to tile the wrong Come, into a special word pattern. Straight and oblique methods are often used together. Decorative lines and pieces of embellishment. General space wall only use a decorative line, arranged in the ground from 0.8 meters to 1 meter position, also known as waist line. Waist line is best not to break. Can also use the two waist lines, arranged in the ground from the ground with 0.4 meters with 2 meters position, if you want to pave more waist, you should choose the thickness, different styles, or too cumbersome. Flowers are usually the finishing touch of the role, the use of the wall above the waist of the eye. It is not in the fine, can be regularly distributed in each wall one or two pieces.

Q:im looking for tips about PORCELAIN floor tiles.I read everywhere they can look like marble but without the maintenance issues, plus it is a harder material.I like the polished finishes .. and saw some samples of them.. rectified porcelain.I can‘t find much info on the net about its shape uniformity, but looks like they are kind of not so squared?I would like them big.. 24 inches, and spaced at the minimum which i think it is 1/8. But a few persons told me that is too close for porcelain and i should go with marble?The problem is that marble is much more expensive... so i don‘t know what to do.Are there brands of porcelain tiles known for their good uniformity... how should i shop for them.,? i don‘t know what to look for. please help.Please do not suggest any other type of flooring... im not interested. If porcelain is always not uniform, then what would the minimum spacing between tiles be so they look fine?Thanks a lot.: I'm not sure what you're looking at but all the porcelain tiles I've seen are square. All square. Very square. There should be no uniformity issues whatsoever. Go to a home improvement store and take a look. The tile type really has very little effect on spacing. However if you want 24 tiles I would suggest 1/4 grout lines at least. It will be extremely difficult to maintain a straight even grout line If you go 1/8. Imagine, if for some reason one tile was out of square a little or slightly offline (which does happen) the grout line would disappear completely. The grout would also be more likely to break if there was any movement in the floor. If you insist on 1/8 spacing, it can be done, but the results will be almost definitely poor.

Q:Does anyone know how to refinish or paint ceramic tile? Or a website showing me how? Please help! =): Hi, my brother installs ceramic tile for a living and has been doing it for about ten yrs or so, maybe less, maybe more, not sure, if you would like, I could find out for you, or have him contact you by phone or email.

Q:I would like to know what steps to take to prepare the concrete floor for ceramic tile. Part of the floor is cement and part is painted. Do I have to prepare the painted portion before tiling?: I tile every day of my life and since the paint is assumed to be part of some aesthetic over concrete, you can scuff it with a wire brush, belt sander, grinder, cleaning all debris. Beyond that, concrete, unless sealed, is a prime substrate for tile/mortar. Certainly you should check for level, as in depressions or any rise, then proceed as is standard Measure snap two perpendicular center lines adjust those lines for cuts and the least waste work from deep in to an exit point test level with a level or hand use a 1/4 in. toothed rectangular trowel to spread mortar use a poly based mortar use rubber spacers at 1/4 or 1/8 inch do not press aggressively save cuts and cut installs for last and do not attempt to kneel on tiles installed to add a piece missed perhaps remove cove base if it exists to replace later wait no less than 24 hours for dry/set time use Poly blend grout of you choice in color mix both mortar and grout to mashed potato consistency fill grout spaces after removing spacers use a rectangular rubberized spreader/squeegie wipe with a barely damp sponge first time then in 2 or 3 re-wipes as the grout sets you can increase dampness (grout sets faster than mortar) by the third wipe of grout excess you should be ok and notice upon drying a DUST that can easily be mopped away after the fact. allow 24 hrs for grout dry/set If you have a pedestal sink, pull it. Pull the toilet as well Tile to the sewage drain flange and replace with a new wax ring with a rubber flange extender embedded. Mop clean after two days and enjoy Steven Wolf Just my two sense

Q:I have granite tiles I want to put on a kitchen countertop. I removed the laminate and underneath is about 1.5 thick of a particle board of some sort. The countertop is very sturdy and the board is in great shape. I know if this stuff get wet, you can have problems, but otherwise it seems to be very sturdy stuff. I know most people will say you need to put down a sheet of hardibacker, but I don‘t see the point. With a top grade thinset, these tiles will definitely adhere to the board extremely well. Grount lines will be extremely tiny and I‘m going to double seal everything with a really good sealer. I don‘t see anyway water is going to penetrate these tiles and thinset and get to the particle board. That‘s really the whole issue, right?: You can do that no problem. Particle board is a very stable material as long as it doesn't get and stay wet a long time. Make sure you seal the edges of the particle board (if you're not covering them with tile). That's the area that's most vulnerable to water damage because of water that drips off of the top of the counter. But I have to say....tile as a counter is outdated and tacky. Get with the program. Use solid granite or solid surfacing. Tiled counter tops are embarrassing.

Q:We laid tile in our shower and I used too much grout. Now I need to know how to get the grout lines even without damaging the tile. Any help would be appreciated.: Kudos to William After installing multiple thousands of sq. ft. of tile, and hundreds of gallons of grout, I so want to not offend you; but the WIPE process probably should have been more resolute on your part. Grout is Mortar/Cement essentially, and when doing tile grouting; the sponging might often be considered as a 3 stage process. Barely moist immediately after application; then as the grout sets, the sponging can increase in how wet you work it. The final result is often just DUST that can easily be wiped away. The issue should have been easy to relate to; as most tile has compressed edges; designed to allow wiping, but not strictly grouting flush with the tile face. In your case, and again; no offense; it seems it's beyond those stages. I guess I'm also curious as to the type of sponge you used. Knowledge is something we so often gain AFTER we NEED it. Certainly you'll have to use abrasives, and possibly a rounded paint knife blade or dinner knife. Nylon/woven scrubbers will likely be ineffective. With care; and if the tile is decent; scraping at the grout shouldn't scratch the tile; to any extreme. The deeper truth however; is that it may never look as it should; and almost as if the grout is squeezed out or bleeding onto the tile face. I do wish you well. Steven Wolf

Q:How would one grout mosaic tiles on standing mirror?: Grout application on a mirror is exactly the same process as grouting a tile floor, back-splash, counter top, or table. Since the mirror is standing, I'd be sure that the mirror won't topple over when applying the grout because it has to be floated into the crevices between the tiles / tile pieces. If possible I'd suggest laying the mirror flat, either on the floor or on a sturdy worktable A grout float is basically a block shaped pushing tool used to force the grout between the tiles. Hold the float at an angle against the tiled surface and use a firm sweeping motion across the tile to push/force the grout into all the nooks, crannies, cracks and openings between the tiles. You'll have to work fairly quickly because grout becomes hard to work once it starts drying out. Work in a diagonal pattern and go back over any low or missed areas. Allow the grout to sit for 20-30 minutes. You'll know the grout is starting to cure when there is a light haze on the tile surface. Using a sponge and a bucket of clean water lightly buff the tile to remove the haze. This step may have to be repeated once or twice to be sure that all of the excess grout has been removed from the tile surface. If you want to seal the grout and tile, there are a number of sealant products available but you'll need to wait 3 or 4 days before applying in order to allow the grout to cure properly.

Q:I used acetone on my tile to get up some hair dye and it stained the tile white where the acetone was. i know now that i probably shouldn‘t have done this so please just answer question. How do i fix it?: Without knowing what kind of tile you're talking about, it's hard to give an accurate answer. Because your tile was blemished by the acetone, I assume it is a matte finish tile, which will absorb moisture. You will probably have to replace the tile. First, go to a tile or flooring store, explain what you did and what happened and see what they recommend. As for fixing the tile, if you haven't removed old grout, fractured and removed a tile, cleaned out old thinset, laid new thinset, the tile, and grouted, I suggest you leave this to a professional.

Q:I believe the tiles were made in Mexico. They are light beige in color. They were installed in the master bathroom which has a shower stall, no bathtub.: Wait a while before you seal the tiles. Make sure you've had a chance to remove any grout haze from the tiles before you seal it. Otherwise you seal in the haze. You should definately seal the grout. It will help it last longer and keep it cleaner, especially a light color.

Q:Is there a paint that can paint over bathroom tile?: I'm guessing that you're looking for total coverage and not just for a small decorative purpose. In that case, it's really all about the prep work you put into it. Wash the tiles down with a TSP mixture, to remove any oil residue off the tile and wash that off afterwards, making sure it's dry. Then apply a primer to the tiles. I've personally found the Glidden Gripper primer to work best at covering ceramic/porcelain. Give that about 24 hours to set once you apply it. You can then cover it with your choice of paint and sheen. I would highly recommend a glossy paint though so it stands up to water; a satin or semi-gloss will work best. Using a foam roller is also a good idea, as this will give it the smoothest finish possible. I would however only recommend this for -wall- applications. It's not meant to be done on the floor and in that case you are better off with a skim coat of concrete and starting with a different type of floor. Painting it won't hold up over time, unless it's an epoxy type paint, but those are more formulated for masonry. Hope this helps!~

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