• Hot Sell Traditional WPC Crack-Resistant Decking System 1
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Hot Sell Traditional WPC Crack-Resistant Decking

Hot Sell Traditional WPC Crack-Resistant Decking

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
300 pc
Supply Capability:
21443214 pc/month

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Hot Sell Traditional wpc crack-resistant decking

Quick Details

Type:

Engineered Flooring

Place of Origin:

China (Mainland)

Brand Name:

CMAX

Technics:

Wood-Plastic Composite Flooring

use:

outdoor



Specifications

A new type of building material,originated from wood, better than wood, with nearly no maintenance,waterproof,anti-pest.

ADVANTAGE:

1. Green ecological, Innovative technology, Lifestyle

2. Elegant nature wood grain texture and touch, with wood scent

3. Elegant and detailed shape design

4. Resistant to cracking and splitting

5. Water-proof, moldy-proof, prevents rotting and moisture, anti-acid, alkali and pest resistance

6. Environmental friendly, fully recyclable and no other hazard chemical

7. Safe to use for many years

8. No painting, no glue, free maintenance

9. Anti-slip, less crack and warp, barefoot friendly

10. Good weatherability, suitable from -40°C to +60°C

11.Easy to process install and clean

12.UV resistance, Fade resistant Durable

13.Dimension stability against moisture and temperature

14. High quality with competitive price.


Product Description:

Main colors available

WPC decking garden products road and pergola

In our website all products are the material object photographs, because the picture machine, the flashing light, the photography technology as well as the personal computing demonstration and so on the various reason, the partial commodities demonstrated the color can with material object some chromatic aberrations, the color all take attain the material object as.

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The leading outdoor designers now offers the ultimate in relaxation: stylish, comfortable, durable outdoor WPC products, a

solid foundation, tough against the most extreme weather, including sun, rain, saltwater and snow, but with gentle touch. And

it’s incredibly low maintenance, so you can spend your time relaxing, not refinishing it.

Product Description

Ingredient: 30%HDPE+60%natural fiber(wood powder, bamboo powder, etc)+10%additives(Anti-UV agent, Anti-oxidant, stabilizers,

colorants, and etc. )

Surface treatment:

WPC decking garden products road and pergola

Weatherability: suitable from -40° C to +60° C, UV resistance

Performance Characteristics: Long known for the unequalled combination of Uniformity, Durability, Workability, and Beauty

Application: Different WPC products have different usage as below:

Decking board:plank,walk path, bridge sidewalk;

Pole material:handrail, railing, fence, partition,scale board

Flower pots board: Flower pot, tree pool, trash can

Decoration board: outside wall decoration board, sun shade, shutter

Bench slip:rest chair,backrest slip,leisure table

Sign board: sign board, indicator, billboard

Strctural material:post, beam,keel

Integrated uses: flower frame, gallery, gazebo, terrance, garage

Indoor application:ceiling, interior panel,bath room,door pocket and window cashing, partition sound barrier, decorative

moulding.

Delivery:Normally 10-15days

Package:PE film, carton box, pallet

Installation guide:

WPC decking garden products road and pergolaWPC decking garden products road and pergola

Maintainance guide:

Make sure that you regulaly clean the wood floors in order to prevent dust accumulation. We recommand to clean a small part

of stains as a testing ground to prevent too much chromatic aberration.

Dust and stain— use a hard brush dipped in warm soapy water to remove it.

Mildew— scrub with ordinary wood mode class agents, or bleach to rinse or wipe it directly.

Chalk stains—In addition to the while chalk, other colors can not be removed, you can use bleaching agent with hot soapy

water to wash it.

Ice or snow—Apply calcium chloride or rock salt, it can melt ice or snow, then use hot soapy water to wash it.

Stain soil and dirts— Apply detergent, which contains oxalic acid or phosphoric acid. Whiping the stain for 10-15 mins.

Greasy and oil-based stains—immediately use household cleaning products with hot soapy water to wash it.

Juice and wine stains—Mixed the bleach stain agent and hot soapy water to dilute the stain and wipe.

Warranty: Limited Residential Warranty against rot, decay, splitting, checking, splintering, or termite damage for a period

of ten years beginning from date of purchase under normal conditions of use and exposure.


Q: I am planning on installing a new floor in the kitchen of a very old house. The current floor is not level. On one end, its about an inch higher than the other end. Is it possible to level the entire floor with the self leveling concrete mix or some other form of self leveling liquid?
You already have some answers on repairing the problem. I won't try to add to those. My old family home was built in 1850 and there is hardly a room in the house that has a level floor. You can drop a marble in most and it will roll off to the side of the room. One room, now enclosed, was once the floor of an open back porch and the floor slopes about 2 inches from one side to the other. However, the house has only provided shelter for 5 generations of my family so far, but I think I will let my great-grandchildren worry about it. Good luck.
Q: Should the wall tile touch the floor? OR Should I leave enough space for the floor tile to go under the wall tile? ORShould they meet at each edge of the tiles?I dont' know the best way to do this? I'm tiling up the wall about 3.5 ft and laying a new tile floor.
Generally the floor tile goes under the wall tile. I would put the floor tile down first, then start the first course of wall tile with a special tile with a curve on the bottom, sort of a reverse bullnose, used for just this situation. However you choose to do it, even just butting the wall tile to the floor, the gap will be less noticeable if the floor tile goes under the wall tile. You might consider caulking this gap instead of grouting it to prevent cracking as the floor flexes as well. Good luck.
Q: what is sea floor spreading and why does the magnetic pole help us to understand this process??thank you :))
Sea floor spreading is the tectonic plate-related condition found when two plates diverge(i.e. move away from each other) . Upwelling magma fills in the fissure left in the gap. As more spread occurs, more magma rises to fill both sides of the fissure. More sea floor is formed. The magnetic domains of iron atoms in magnetite in basalt, orient to the positive magnetic pole ( North Presently)and those orientations are fixed/locked when the magnetite/iron cools below the Curie point regardless of future pole changes. When mapping the sea floor, Navy researchers found that these magnetic domains would lie in one direction then switch to the opposite pole. They also found the these bands were the same for bands equally distant to the ocean mid oceanic ridge on the opposite side. This pattern repeated may times each time resulting in an identical orientation equally distant on the opposite side of the mid-oceanic ridge. (repeated for emphasis) As the mid-oceanic ridge propagation /sea floor spreading is a conveyor belt of continuous basalt production. This alternating band of magnetic orientation could only come about it the magnetic poles were swapping orientation on a recurring basis in intervals of hundreds of thousands of years. Ergo seafloor spreading and magnetic pole orientation prove each others existence You are most welcome!
Q: what is the best brand laminate flooring?
We prefer Wilsonart or Mannington. Ease of install, longevity and warrenty these two stand out. Most everyone talks about Pergo. I think they are over rated. They have great marketing but not the best product. I run a custom home building company... Below gives decent info. I do not necessarily recommend the website just the article. We buy locally for flooring.
Q: living room and bedroom have really bad stripped wood floors whats the best way to get the shine and strength back to them? ive tried mop and glow pledge floor cleaner and murphys oil and none have worked
Since the floor is already partly striped you will need to get the rest of the old finish off. Once the old finish is off, you may need to sand the floor to make it nice and smooth. Clean the dust up real good and put down a good sealer or sealer/stain combo. Once you have that done then you can put down a good wax and you should be in good shape. If the floors have a lot of traffic on them you might ask for a wax like is used on a gym floor. It will last longer than a bottle wax but it isn't real cheap. Just ask the folks where you are buying it and they can tell you. Just make sure the floor is clean before you put down the sealer and wax.
Q: how to start add a second floor
the only subject your going to have is on the wall which you have the two storage doorways(assuming they're on the comparable wall). you will possibly could carry out a little bracing there to span the burden of the extra height, like some engineered trusses, or something of the like. extra effective than possibly you in all probability purely have the two doubled 2x10's or tripled 2x8's as headers over the doorways correct now. all the different all and sundry is properly suited on checking with a close-by contractor approximately interior sight codes. have you ever seen only getting the truss rafters that permit for an extra room to be inbuilt them? you does no longer have as lots area, besides the undeniable fact that it would get the activity performed and you're extra effective than possibly unlikely to could do any important changes on your partitions or upload a help.
Q: We are trying to repair the kitchen floor in our new house. When we pulled up the linoleum rug (which covered only half the floor), we discovered there was tile below. My husband busted up part of the tile to see if the floor under it matched the hardwood in the rest of the house (including the other half of the kitchen). Apparently the tiles were placed on top of a layer of plaster. There is a wooden floor/subfloor below the plaster but when the tiles and plaster are removed, it leaves the floor uneven with the hardwood by almost an inch. We were going to put down plywood to even the floor and put the new flooring (laminate tiles) on top of that but after checking prices, that's not really feasible for us on our budget. Does anyone have any cheaper solutions?
if your down to the sub floor, you can put down 1/4 inch backer board on top of the sub floor. then the difference can be made up with the laminate. laminate floor comes in different thicknesses. when you say your husband busted up the tiles, do you mean ceramic tiles? ceramic tiles would be set in a layer of mortar. the laminate does not have to be exactly the same height as the existing wood floor. you can put a transition piece between the new laminate and the existing wood floor. you will put a transition piece between the old and new floor anyway. it's easier if the floors match, but they don't have to be exact. there's molding or thresh hold strips that go between the new and old floor. they come for floors that are even as well as uneven.
Q: the people who we bought the house from just polished the floors right over dirt...is there anything that can be done?
You need a liquid floor cleaner that contains ammonia. Ammonia is the secret ingredient that breaks down floor wax, as it goes after the cross-linked chemical bonds. You may need to use a high concentration of the cleaner, perhaps even use it straight, and allow it to soak in place for a few minutes to allow it to break down the wax. Then simply mop the floor to pick up the residue. A rotory floor scrubber (the type the professionals use) using either a mild abrasive pad or a polishing pad, will make the whole job faster. (don't use too abrasive of a pad, or it will damage the floor). Caution: avoid the temptation to use straight ammonia, as the vapors are too strong and could kill you! Just find a good quality floor cleaner that specifically states that it contains ammonia. Your local home center sells professional strength floor cleaners that will do the job.
Q: My bathroom floor is currently covered with linoleum. I plan to strip the floor of this down to the sub-flooring (wood). What steps will I need to take to ceramic tile my bathroom floor? What things will I have to buy and in what order from start to finish to go from sub-floor to completed ceramic floor?Thanks!10 POINTS to the best answer!!!
After you strip the floor you will need to make your it is sound and secure. You need a smooth clean surface. For a bathroom you need dura roc or hardie backer as an underlayment. You will need to do a dry setting of the tiles. That means lay the tiles out to figure the best pattern and get an idea as to space etc. once you know how you want the tiles laid start cutting. You will need a mastic/thinset to set the tiles...whichever one you choose just follow directions. The directions will tell you what size trial you will need to spread the mastic/thin set. as you set the tiles insert spacers they come in different sizes. after all the tiles are set, let sit for 24 hrs. clean out any grout lines and remove the spacers. now you are ready to grout. grout comes in different colors and there is a sanded grout and a non sanded. When you buy the tile ask the sales person which grout you need for that tile, sanded or non sanded. some tiles will scratch with sanded tile. follow directions on the grout. make sure you wipe of any clumps of grout or it may not come off. lightly wipe extra grout as your grouting. there will be a haze over the tiles. you can wipe over the tile very lightly every few hours.

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