• High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board System 1
  • High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board System 2
  • High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board System 3
  • High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board System 4
High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

Ref Price:
$5.00 - 10.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
1000000000 m²/month

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Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

1.Structure of Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.

 

The Manufacturing Process

Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes

2.Main Features of Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

● FEATURES

Thermal Insulation

Fire Safety

Acoustic Control

No Corrosion

Environmental friendly

Moisture Resistance

Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction

Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.

Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.

Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The

Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.

3. Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board Images

 

 

4. Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board Specification

ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

 

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Rock wool PIPE

Standard Size

DIA Thickness (mm)

inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150

1/2’’ 22

3/4’’ 27

1’’ 34

1-1/4’’ 43

1-1/2’’ 48

2’’ 60

2-1/2’’ 76

3’’ 89

3-1/2’’ 108

4’’ 114

5’’ 140

6’’ 169

8’’ 219

10’’ 273

12’’ 325

14’’ 356

15’’ 381

16’’ 406

18’’ 456

19’’ 483

20’’ 508

22’’ 558

24’’ 610

 5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

①     What’s the mainly material for rock wool

Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,

What’s the mainly type for rock wool

rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.

How you control the quality?

During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.

 

Q: My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.
Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
The mold problem probably has nothing to do with the insulation. Main causes would be bathrooms with no exhaust fans or windows that open. Others could be leaks around windows that allow water to enter into the walls. Bad plumbing is also a possibility. Check for leaks. If there are dryers (clothes type), are the vents discharged to the outside? All these could contribute to the problem.
Q: I need to call around and find a contractor to repair my roof. I thought it might be a good idea to at least have the name of this type of roofing correct so I don't sound like too much of a mark. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
redneck style roofing
Q: does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
I don't get the connection between R-Value (insulation) and shingles that are exposed to the outside!
Q: Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?
Not very practical. You would, in essence, draw the heat out of the space (rooms) below. Insulation in your attic does allow some heat to pass through.
Q: How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
What you could do is line inbetween the roof trusses with fibre wool and then fix heavy cardboard sheets over them to keep them in place. Alternatively you could engage the services of a specialist company who will come and strip off your tiles/slates whatever and spray an insulating foam on the inside thus sealing everything in place.
Q: attic insulation
Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
Q: The attic was converted into two rooms and I want to add insulation but the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof is about 5 inches? How should I do this?
there is not any way no how ever that a roofing nail is going to show 4 to 5 inches after dealing with shingles and plywood. that should recommend a 5 a million/2" to 6 a million/2" nail. and there is only the slightest quantity of buckle and/or carry earlier the summer time solar flattens it completely. you should call in an self sufficient roof repairer and have him recommend you. until eventually you're seeing issues very incorrect, this is an entire screw-up. If it fairly is actual, then the extra important question is .....in the event that they could do some thing this nuts, what else have they botched? If self sufficient roof repairer supplies you undesirable information, do no longer seek advice from contractor until eventually you have first talked to an attorney.
Q: Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
depending on where you live,if possible,r30 fiberglass or blown in either is the standard around here,and,for sure never block your ventilation,you need the air in your attic,freezing cold attics don't make you cold if you're properly insulated

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