• High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board System 1
  • High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board System 2
  • High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board System 3
  • High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board System 4
High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

Ref Price:
$5.00 - 10.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
1000000000 m²/month

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Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

1.Structure of Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.

 

The Manufacturing Process

Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes

2.Main Features of Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board

● FEATURES

Thermal Insulation

Fire Safety

Acoustic Control

No Corrosion

Environmental friendly

Moisture Resistance

Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction

Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.

Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.

Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The

Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.

3. Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board Images

 

 

4. Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board Specification

ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

 

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Rock wool PIPE

Standard Size

DIA Thickness (mm)

inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150

1/2’’ 22

3/4’’ 27

1’’ 34

1-1/4’’ 43

1-1/2’’ 48

2’’ 60

2-1/2’’ 76

3’’ 89

3-1/2’’ 108

4’’ 114

5’’ 140

6’’ 169

8’’ 219

10’’ 273

12’’ 325

14’’ 356

15’’ 381

16’’ 406

18’’ 456

19’’ 483

20’’ 508

22’’ 558

24’’ 610

 5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

①     What’s the mainly material for rock wool

Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,

What’s the mainly type for rock wool

rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.

How you control the quality?

During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.

 

Q: were can i buy material to insulate pans and instructions to install it? I have seen many roofs with this done ,but , the lowe,s and home depots don't have .
metal pan usually refers to a pan that concrete is then poured into. If there is no concrete in it (and a flat membrane roof over that) then its called currogated metal roof. Either way they look the same. Hard to insulate cause they are not meant to insulate. there are some sold with insulation already attached - its a thin floam layer - thats a newer thing but not sure how new. heard of some mobile home mfgs and storage building builders using spray on insulation under the panels. As for aftermarket on insulating- you may be able to have spray on insulation applied from under neath - if the space is open and accessible. it looks and feels like foam, can get a bit messy , but maybe do-able depnding on your application. If its not a open space with maybe drywall under it - you might think about opening up the space in the ceiling and having blown in insulation done (much cheaper then sprayed on). Blown in will insulate just fine but someone would have to look at your application and area cause in some instances - blown in insulation can be bad for high moisture situations. also- if this happens to be in a house - by adding insulation to steel - you might be breaking fire code - something to keep in mind for safety.
Q: My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.
Q: I'm thinking of converting my brick walled corrugated iron shed into a changing room for winter hot tub use. I was advised by a friend that the first thing i should do is insulate the roof using glass fibre insulation (the yellow fluffy stuff in the loft) and a simple Plywood ceiling but im not sure how i would stick it to the existing roof (dimensions 170cm x 147cm). So..... how should i insulate the roof of my future changing room????
What is he using glue on? Buy rolled fiberglass insulation, install it between the rafters and wall studs...paper side in. You can cover the walls and ceiling with drywall, OSB, plywood if you wish. You do realize that insulating your shed isn't going to make it much/any cooler don't you? You will need an air conditioner for that, but the insulation will help keep the AC in.
Q: Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?
Yes, it does. It also shows that you are not losing heat and that you are well insulated.
Q: In a house, it looks like an addition, that now is the kitchen , it feels HOT, it doesn't seem to have a very good insulation on the roof at all, the ceiling is already low, so, what can be done on the outside to give it more insulation?, i don't care what it is i just want to give it a GOOD insulation, the roof is flat and to shingles. Any IDEAS? , thanks!
Sorry but there isn't enough info to give a good answer...is there space between the ceiling and the roof to add insulation...there may be enough insulation but no ventilation in the area directly under the roof (atic area) If there is not enough air flow in this area the temperature will skyrocket thus heat the kitchen AND the shingles will deteriorate very quickly.If you still need to add insulation the best way is to put sloped roof (if possible)and add insulation in the space created or you can use foam insulation and re roof ..make sure you seal between the wall system and new insulation and whatever method make sure to allow air to flow under the roof (both inflow and outflow)
Q: The distance between knee wall and attic ceiling is about 6 foot. Could I push a perforated pipe between the rafters?
That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.
Q: How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.
Q: is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
If you have vented soffits, you have to stay away from the corners where the outside wall meets the roof. It is best to install insulation baffles to the roof sheathing to keep the fiberglass from stopping the natural ventilation through the soffit vents into the attic. They can be purchased at home improvement store.
Q: We have plenty down at the center, so many, you can carpet a garden. So, since I'll have to tear down the roof and improve the insulation in a few months, I was thinking of adding one extra layer... of emergency blankets. Since they can reflect the sun's heat up, and the heat under it down, will they do that for a whole house? Will the plastic film cause water condensation? If you wouldn't recommend it, then what would you recommend?
They may help, but as thin as they are, installing them would be about as easy as putting socks on a rooster!
Q: The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
i guess u mean attic insulation, it all depends on the type of ins u have, but why remove it ?, just add more on top..i'm not sure where ur located, the amt of ins depends on ur climate...here in Ontario, Canada, the code req's R40 for attics...but R32 is just as efficient

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