• Gypsum Board in Size 2440*1220*12mm for Partition System 1
  • Gypsum Board in Size 2440*1220*12mm for Partition System 2
  • Gypsum Board in Size 2440*1220*12mm for Partition System 3
Gypsum Board in Size 2440*1220*12mm for Partition

Gypsum Board in Size 2440*1220*12mm for Partition

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
700 pc
Supply Capability:
120000 pc/month

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Main Material: Gypsum Powder

Normal size: 2440x1220mm, 2400x1200mm

Normal thickness: 7, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5,10, 12, 13, 15mm

Edge: Square, Tappered

Category: Regular, Fire resistant, Moistureresistant, Water proof

Performance: Fire-resistance, Moisture-resistance,Water-proof, Heat-preventing


Specifications:

1) Sepcial healthy breath function

2) Cost effective and more reliable, easy to install

Q: Put my foot through the plasterboard and need to get it fixed asap. how would i be able to repare it ? its about 4-5 inches wide and about 3 inches long.
The quickest and easiest fix is to go to a big box home store when they open this morning and buy the drywall patch kit. It is a square or rectangular, semi hard flat piece of material that you can cover the hole with, then get a small container of drywall compound and a plastic drywall knife and follow the directions. Cost may be $15 max, may take you 25 minutes if lucky. Try to make it smooth the first time and sanding may be eliminated depending on how good you need the finish.
Q: What insulation should i use to fill between the joists of my house before i replace the plasterboard ceiling?
The easiest and least expensive for a DIY is fiberglass. Measure the depth of the joist cavity and buy insulation of the same thickness. If you use an insulation with a vapor barrier, be sure to place the vapor barrier toward the living space.
Q: Gypsum board wall how to install
First determine the wall, cleaning contact parts and so on. Methods as below: 1, the wall of the line according to the design to determine the wall. Place the wall bit on the ground and lead the wire to the ceiling and side walls. 2, the construction of the wall before the first wall and floor, ground contact parts for cleaning, coating interface treatment agent, then pouring C20 concrete wall, the wall surface should be flat, both sides of the vertical. 3, the installation along the ground, along the top keel along the ground, along the top keel in place, with the nail fixed, shot nail from the 900MM, nail position to avoid the laying of the tube area.
Q: Waterproof practices of light steel keel gypsum board partition wall
Mainly to the wall with the ground part of the transfer of real seed, pay attention to consider the contraction.
Q: Construction method of wood keel gypsum board
Simple description The production process is: first with wooden keel frame structure, ceiling wood keel should be coated with fire retardant paint, hanging on the main keel. Ladder-type ceiling with blockboard and wood composition. Wood keel do a good job after the paper gypsum board, paper gypsum board and keel connection must use self-tapping screws, screw head must enter the board 2mm or so, is strictly prohibited using gun nail, because the paper gypsum board strength is low, Small surface, easy to cause paper and gypsum board layer, and the paint construction caused great trouble. Gypsum board splicing should be left about 5mm gap, to prevent the damp expansion caused by the top of the arch. Paste gypsum board base treatment when applied anti-rust paint the screw point, otherwise the rust will penetrate the surface. And then the patchwork with elastic putty approved flattened with a white bandage, then full approval, the general approved scraping two to three times, dry after grinding smooth, and finally coated with paint. For the installation of the ceiling of the ceiling due to the low strength of the plaster board, so gypsum board and keel should be added between a layer of plywood, so that the installation and maintenance of the lamp when you can prevent damage to the plaster board, Of the installation of fastness.
Q: I have put my flat screen tv on the wall but now all the wires are hanging down from my tv to my sky box and my xbox etc. I have drilled a hole behind my tv and a hole near the floor so that I can drop the wires through to make it more tidy. I tied the cable to a wire coat hanger to push it though but the cavity is filled with insulation and i cant push the wires through to the bottom. Also there might be joists that I haven't found yet. Does anyone know an easier way of doing this?Thanks
You should install surface mounted wire mold to conceal the wires. It's a violation of the electrical code to run device power cords through a wall so you could not legally run any 120 volt cables that way. You could also be breaching a firewall and a sound barrier, which this may well be because it has insulation in it (this would be true if it is a shared party wall) . If it is an outside wall, you are breaching the vapor barrier and reducing the weather seal on the house, also a poor idea. Also, it's a code violation to run 120 volt cable and low voltage communication cable through the same opening in a concealed partition. The only safe option for concealing the wires in the wall would be to use proper recessed backboxes with correctly supported cable between them -- as it is done when houses are built to accomodate wall mount TV's. There has to be two separate box systems, or a divided box and separated raceways, for the line voltage and low voltage cables. My advice is patch the holes you've made and run divided wiremold with channels for the two different voltages (your building or electrical supply store will have it).
Q: Just Curious
No. It will not melt due to heat as it is a fireproof material.
Q: I have moved into a new house which has an extension, I have found that the extension was not insulated. I wish to cut out some plasterboard, lay the insulation and then replace. Any ideas? There are 4 sunken spotlights in the ceiling which are at least 1 metre apart.
Are you taking down just the walls, just the ceiling, or everything ? If it's just the walls or ceiling, cut the seam with a sheetrock knife so you will have a clean joint to work to. If your taking the whole thing down, then it doesn't matter. Here's a hint. If you've never done this before, you might want to seek out a professional. Drywall looks easy, but it's not. Look for a house under construction and approach the guys working there for a name of a drywaller. Everybody in construction looks for side jobs. Buy the materials and pay the hangers and finishers in cash when they're done.
Q: Hello, im currently trying to take down my bathroom ceiling but am having trouble as the plaster seems to have chicken wire through it. im slowing prizing it away from the joists but its taking ages, has anyone any advice for me? i was hoping that the plaster would be attached to slats of wood that i could rip down, but like i said it seems to have been reinforced with chicken wire . . . .
It is attached to metal lathe and seems to be pretty tight. I wouldn't take it down unless you have to for some reason. We oftentimes laminate new wallboard over the existing plaster. Use construction adhesive on the back of the new wallboard and 3 drywall screws and screw through to the joists above. If you're almost to the point of total removal, you can use a reciprocating saw ( with proper eye and breathing protection) and run it through the wire lathe between the joists then pry down the separated pieces. In a bathroom, use moisture resistant drywall at a minimum or mold and moisture resistant.
Q: It's a strip light but although I'm putting plugs in, after I drill the holes, as soon as I put the hooks up to hold the light the plugs just keep coming out....any suggestions?
The anchors (plugs) have to fit snugly into the drill holes. If your drill holes are too big, the anchors will fall out. Make sure that you are using the right size anchors and drill bits.

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