Glazed Porcelain Tile Wall Tile Series WT3060CG

Glazed Porcelain Tile Wall Tile Series WT3060CG

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1267.2

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Glazed Porcelain Tile Wall Tile Series WT3060CG is one of the most popular color of Wall Tile Serie, which is one serie of Ceramic Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Product Features

· First choice, top grade.

· Water absorption : 10%-15%.

· Delivery Time: Within 10-15days for stock, 30days for production against the down payment

· Strong hardness

· Size:240x660mm,250x700mm,300x300mm,300x600mm,300x900mm, 330x600mm, 400x800mm ...

Product Specification

Tile Type: Ceramic Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: around 12%

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 300x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Glazed Porcelain Tile Wall Tile Series WT3060CG

FAQ

1. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

2. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

3. Why choose our Floor Tile?

1). Less investment and shorter lead time because we ship tiles directly from Factory.

2). Better ETD and more stable price bacause we keep abundant stock for future needs.

Q:well I burned a small hole in a linoleum tile. How do I fix it?: The easiest way I have found to remove a single tile is to get a large pot of water boil it and set on top the the tile you want to replace. The heat from the pot will make the tile soft and very pliable. Take a box cutter and cut a x in the center of the tile (it will be as easy as cutting through carboard, tear up the tile it will come up in 4 pieces assuming you cut the X) scrape the glue with a metal putty knife re-apply new adhesive and lay the new tile. good luck

Q:Over time the tiles in my apartment bathtub have turned yellow. It‘s not all of the tiles, just a few in the back/corner. I undoubtedly have hard water but I can‘t figure out why a few of these tiles are yellow. As far as I can tell, these are cheap plastic tiles (white). I have tried comet (with bleach), full strength bleach, vinegar/water solution, vinegar/baking soda, baking soda by itself, mr. clean magic eraser, and full strength CLR to no avail. The only thing that worked at all was using comet and scouring the tiles with steel wool. Although it scratched the surface, the actual scratch part wasn‘t noticeable. But there has to be an easier way than breaking my arm to get one tile cleaned. Any suggestions? If anyone wants I can email them a picture of the tiles.: Anything you've used that has already scratched the tiles will only result in hard water deposits clinging to them again, as the glaze has been compromised. CLR full strength is really the only thing that works that won't damage the tiles although it requires repeated treatments to clean them. Take an extra fine media abrasive (0000), mix a 50/50 solution of a product called Barkeeper's Friend and CLR and try this. You may have to treat it several times but the hard water scale should dissolve without damaging the tiles. I've heard of mixing a solution of scratchless cleaning powder and kerosene, but you don't want to apply that to plastic and you don't want to use VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) in confined spaces. A better solution would be to break out all the plastic tile and have it replaced with ceramics, but since you're renting and your landlord probably doesn't want to spend money on remodeling this is your best bet.

Q:I have broken tiles that i desperately need to fix ,but i cant seem to find a match for the existing tile , is there any place that make the tile for me?: I have no idea. I know when I had my house tiled, I bought about ten spares just in case. I haven't had to use them yet though. Do you know where you bought the tile? Maybe you could try looking at one of those special order books that they carry in the stores.

Q:My parents want to re-tile their bathroom. My dad says he can use regular tiles in the bathroom, bathroom being the floor and the open-shower walls(the only thing stopping the water spillage is plastic and fabric on a rail), but my mom says it needs bathroom tiles and bathroom grout for the job. Any help would definitely be appreciated!!!: I okorder /.. I tiled and grouted my parent's bathroom when I was 15... it's still looking good 40+ years later. One of the decisions that keep the appearance looking good was to pay very close attention to attaching the tile backer to the walls, and to use a colored grout on the floor. Keep all the grout sealed and you'll do fine.

Q:for diferent size tiles are there standard grout joint sizes: This doesn't directly answer your question, but I thought that you might like to know what can happen if you don't make a grouted joint in ceramic tiles, particularly in a shower cubicle. The tiler who tiled my shower room didn't make any joints at all. He set the tiles so close together that they were touching, presumably to save on grount and on time. That's what caused a leak in my shower cubicle, strangely enough. The water washed off the tiny amount of grout that was wiped over the tiles, then it worked its way through and behind the tiles, and appeared as a wet patch on the carpet in the hallway outside the shower room. All this took several years to show up. I had to have the shower cubicle retiled, with 3 or 4 mm grouted joints, plus new plaster board backing, but it solved the problem of the leak. So, that's what could happen if you don't put grouted joints in ceramic tiles, particularly if they are in a shower cubicle.

Q:Can I leave them alone and simply go over them w/ mud and ceramic tile . I really don‘t want to open the hazmat can of worms by getting the tiles tested.The tiles look like that mutfti pattern common in office buildings and schools and secured w/ a mastic.Thanks: Are you going to install the new tile yourself? Or have a pro do it? I used to do building maintenance at a YWCA in MI, we had the same tiles in much of the building. When an area was going to get covered in new carpet and other new flooring, the installers insisted on going through the haz-mat mess and removing the old tiles.

Q:I need to repair my shower, about 6 tiles fell off. I‘m currently drying the drywall with a fan. Whats the best way to glue tile back on the wall?: u get wet setting adhesives use such glue and bond tiles u need not dry the surface at all

Q:80 by 80 tiles a box of 3 pieces equal to how many squares?: 0.8 * 0.8 * 3 = 1.92m2 material calculation should not be used on the edge material included, so that the second purchase of color is not on.

Q:I am installing some mesh mounted 12x12 glass tiles sheets on one wall of my kitchen (behind the stove). I was reading online how to do it and I have a question. Some sites say to put the bottom tiles flush with the counter top and some sites say to use 1/8 spacers between the countertop and the bottom of the tiles and fill in with grout colored cauk. Which should I do? Thanks: --->> Tips---> https://trimurl.im/f87/installing-mesh-mounted-glass-tiles

Q:Is it better to use ceramic or vynil tile in the bathrooms and why?(example: how it feels on your feet if you live in a state where it gets really cold in the winter, how easy are they to clean, etc.)Thanks!: Vinyl is really only an option if money or handyness is an issue. Tile isn't difficult to install, but stirring thinset is tough (tore my rotator cuff). But for the money, the extra $1/sqft for the ceramic vs vinyl will pay off in 5 -10 years when the vinyl starts to crack and needs to be replaced or the toilet overflows and ruins the subfloor through the gaps in vinyl.

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