• Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C System 2
Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening.

 

Product Features

 

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C

 


FAQ

 

Full glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening, like archaize brick pattern of design and color is rich, thick gorgeous color, natural texture, and the environmental protection and energy saving, service life long advantages and the low barriers to entry.

 

1. Why choose our Floor Tile?

 Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for guving useful instruction on your jobsite.
.

2. What exhibition we joined?

1). Canton Fair (every year)

2). Dubai Big 5

3). American Covering

 

3. How to choose bathroom tiles? Porcelain tiles or glazed tiles?

Currently used in the bathroom tiles with glazed tiles (mainly from price considerations, some high-end can choose tiles, notice to choose tiles), divided into Shinny and Matt two kinds. Light color makes people feel shinny, but the bathroom more appropriate to create a warm feeling, so the best choose is uses matte, the shinny feels more soft and not dazzling.


Q: Hi, I was wondering if the house appraisal for a house with all hardwood floor was higher than it is if the house has all tile. Thanks!
REAL harwood floors (meaning the flooring is 100% hardwood and not a laminate of any kind) usually appraise SLIGHTLY higher. This means the floors are in great shape with no re-finishing needed.etc needed. It also means they are flat (not warped) or dinged and stain free. As with tile wood floors come in all price ranges. Laminates (like babmboo or pergo) won't be valued as highly as 100% hardwood planks. Tile floors are 'iffy'. Just like harwood there are all different grades of tile. Cheap tiles -ceramic,terra cotta- do not appraise as highly as porcelain,stone or marble flooring. But even with the best of the best of either the appraisal value would change only a few 100 dollars between the best quality and the worst quailty of either.Hope this was helpful
Q: my tiles are filthy....theres white dust every where and I guess what ever they used to patch the wall or something on the floor....I swept and mopped but it still looks horrible.
tile lab makes a heavy duty cleaner and stripper for tiles you can try that.
Q: I got these tiles at a yard sale. They appear to be very old, hand painted and likely of Mexican origin. The label is tattered and faded, but I would love to know more about them. Thanks for any info in advance.
Very nice and I am sure that once you put them up you will love the vintage old world look that they will give your room. Have fun!
Q: How to do the wall tiles off
9, at this time the new paste around the brick will be squeezed out of the gap from the gap, with the mud shovel flat can; 10, with a rag to the brick and the surrounding wipe clean, and then clean the cloth with white cement directly in the brick, over ten minutes after a slight strength of white cement, and then clean the cloth with the tile and wipe clean; 11, clean up things, Qi live!
Q: I want to install Travertine tile to a fireplace surround. This would be travertine tile directly to sheetrock, painted with flat latex paint. This areawould never see moisture other than something the wet grout and sealer. Is this OK? Will the sheetrock hold the weight of the tiles? What prep is needed? Or am I asking for trouble?
installing directly to sheetrock will not cause the tiles to break or the installation to fail. 75% of new homes are tile to sheetrock on fireplaces. mastic is never a good idea. Because this is not an area that will get wet, you might get by, but honestly... Why spend $35 for a pail of mastic when $20 will give you a 50# bag of modified thinset? So yes, sheetrock will support the weight of the tiles on a fireplace surround. No prep is needed. Cut tiles, thinset, and set. Also a tip... Some people like to caulk around the inside of the surround, as the grout tends to crack there with the expansion/contraction of the metal from using the fireplace. Don't do it. It'll look good for a little while, but it will stink every time you use the fireplace. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck!
Q: Buy tiles need to pay attention to what? What place where to sell tiles better?
There are many varieties of tiles on the market today, there are only a dozen categories. Consumers face such as infiltration of whole body bricks, tiles, anti-skid tiles and the like, but do not understand the meaning of which. It is important to distinguish between good and bad tiles. Upstairs several have already introduced a lot of what I added: Floor tiles can be used to compare the following indicators of data: water absorption, wear resistance, acid resistance and pollution indicators to distinguish the quality of brick quality. Selection of glazed tiles, mainly to see their tires and glazed the treatment. Tire should be size specifications, the surrounding smooth, uniform thickness, the same specifications of the tile thickness and size difference should not exceed 2 mm. The quality of glazed is more critical. First, the enamel should be thick and smooth; secondly, the glaze color difference should be as small as possible. Bathroom bathroom suitable for small size tiles. Internationally renowned brands: "Bee", "Nobel", "Diamond", "Eagle", "Asia" Domestic well-known brands: "crown beads" "Samite" "Golden rudder" Indoor floor tiles are: Tiles, polished tiles, matt bricks, glazed tiles, tiles, anti-skid tiles, special anti-acid tiles (for the laboratory and other corrosive large ground) Outdoor floor tiles are: square brick, lawn brick
Q: laying sheet laminate over existing ceramic tile on kitchen counter
The best answer, of course, is to pull the tile. If you want, however, you can go right over the top by gluing a sheet of 1/8 or 1/4 sheet product (lauan or cheap paneling) over the tile using mastic. Making sure it is level and solid, you can then apply laminate directly over the top. I've done it on two remodels on rental properties and it worked just fine.
Q: I pick tiles.easier to clean = BIG plus
Tile is easier to clean, but the grout can be a pain... then again carpet is warmer... I'd go with full wall-to-wall shag.
Q: I am building a deck outside my living room am#92;nd the dimensions are 8‘ wide by 24‘ long.It is 14‘ up at the highest point as I am on a hill. I‘m using 2 by 6 joists with 2 by 12 headers. Here is what I want to do: someone told me to use a 1/4 in slope over 8 ft. for water run off. I want to tile the deck. Iwant to know what size plywood I should use and if there is some kind of waterproof fibreboard I can use as a base for the tile in lieu of laying down rubber for the base. I dont want sand or pitch due to the weight factor. Is there something fairly lightweight and waterproof suitable for a base for the tile? If so what is it called? and where can i get it? Thanks.
cement board or treated exterior plywood
Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

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