• Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C System 2
Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening.

 

Product Features

 

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60C

 


FAQ

 

Full glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening, like archaize brick pattern of design and color is rich, thick gorgeous color, natural texture, and the environmental protection and energy saving, service life long advantages and the low barriers to entry.

 

1. Why choose our Floor Tile?

 Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for guving useful instruction on your jobsite.
.

2. What exhibition we joined?

1). Canton Fair (every year)

2). Dubai Big 5

3). American Covering

 

3. How to choose bathroom tiles? Porcelain tiles or glazed tiles?

Currently used in the bathroom tiles with glazed tiles (mainly from price considerations, some high-end can choose tiles, notice to choose tiles), divided into Shinny and Matt two kinds. Light color makes people feel shinny, but the bathroom more appropriate to create a warm feeling, so the best choose is uses matte, the shinny feels more soft and not dazzling.


Q: How many 4x4 tiles for the deck area of a bath tub?Total area of deck tub = 108 x 61 = 6588Total area of tub = 60 x 41.5 = 24906588 - 2490 = 4098 total deck areaCan someone please tell me how many tiles I need? I don‘t know where to go from here.
108x61 is same as 9ftx 5ft (close enough!) So--4 in. tiles would be 12 per sq ft--9x5 =45 x12 =540 tiles. Plus 54 for breakage. You should always add 10% for breakage. Unless tiles are very strong and can`t break easily when cutting to fit! But at least 10% gives you extra for future repair or mistakes when installing.
Q: My bathroom in my new house has the ugliest green tile halfway up the wall and then a different shade of green tile on the floor. My husband I have a little experierience with fixing stuff up, but this one has us puzzled. We want to tear the tile down and put up drywall. Then we‘d like to carpet the floor. We haven‘t got the nerve yet cause we don‘t know what to expect behind those tiles on the wall. Got ANY suggestions in my little dilemma???
Well, if you have a little experience, all u have to do is chisel off the tile, then just cut out the wall behind the tile too because it is either cement board, or it will have way too much glue behind it to even bother getting it all off. After the tile is gone, just cut a nice straight line and replace the wall behind the tile. You should more than likely need 1/2 inch drywall depending on the thickness or your original wall. Its not hard at all to do, so just grab a claw hammer and a chisel and have at it. The removal should only take an hour or 2 depending on the size of the room, and from there its all downhill. If you need help on doing the actual drywall, drop me a email and i'd be glad to help! Have at it, just make sure when knocking out the old wall not to hit any pipes!! Hope this helped! Good luck with your project!!!
Q: I am installing some mesh mounted 12x12 glass tiles sheets on one wall of my kitchen (behind the stove). I was reading online how to do it and I have a question. Some sites say to put the bottom tiles flush with the counter top and some sites say to use 1/8 spacers between the countertop and the bottom of the tiles and fill in with grout colored cauk. Which should I do? Thanks
Definitely use the spacers and the grout caulk. By the way there is a product available that is not grout colored caulk but is actually grout caulk....it's sold at large tile stores, and is made for those areas that you're describing. The reason for using the grout caulk in that space is that there is always a certain amount of movement where the cabinet meets the wall. If there is no expansion joint which cushions that movement, something will break, and in your case it will probably be the glass tile.
Q: I‘m installing a kitchen back splash of 1 x 1 glass tile. Right now there is drywall where the tile will be. I‘ve read that it is better to use cement backing board as a substrate. Is this really necessary or can I just use thin-set to mount the tile directly to the drywall and then grout as usual? Thanks for your help!
Hello Samsonite, I would have to disagree with using mastic. If you were using something that had a good absorption rate it's be different, but glass is so dense it'd take forever for the mastic to set up. Most manufacturers of glass tiles recommend using highly modified thinset (Customs Building Product's Megaflex at HD or TEC's Superflex at a tile supplier). I have found the Superflex to have the most brilliant white color when cured, providing the best background for your colors to shine. Drywall will be fine. You may want to key in the mortar you choose by flat troweling it on the drywall before combing your notches. This helps to ensure 100% coverage. For more detailed info, tips, and pics of other DIYer's jobs please visit the site in my profile. :)
Q: in my bathroom what do i need thats easy an inexpensive? Can i do it myself.? trying to do it for my mother this weekend while she is away. Have tile thats old and seperating can i just pull it up clean the floor and lay the tile?
it isn't puzzling as long as you precise practice for the pastime. even if it really is a unmarried room verify even if it really is sq. and utilizing a chalk line mark a line you'll start up with. Use the most uncovered part of the room to get completely promptly line of tiles. once you start up proper something is in simple terms repetition. yet another part of challenge is what are you putting the tile over. Is is a concrete slab? if so in simple terms verify it really is does no longer have any parts that are higher. even if it really is timber sub-floor surely use backing like ask your self board or something like that. relying on the length of your tiles you want to verify on a spacer length. Your shop may help you with that. yet another situation is your connection of tiles to the wall. Do you've a baseboard? If accessible get rid of the baseboard and reapply it once you're executed. it is going to seem more advantageous powerful and also you've gotten more straightforward time laying the tile. evaluate getting a DVD on laying tile, i'm particular you shop can promote you one for very few money. strong success!
Q: Is there any one who have knowledge about Ceremic tiles? plz suggest me.
Ceramic tile makes up for designs limited only by your imagination with the very wide variety of colors, sizes, textures, and patterns that it comes in. Extraordinarily, it comes in various sets of attributes that make it ideal to use as roofing, wall tile, backsplash and countertop or decorative tilework material. Other than the versatility in both fashion and function that it offers, ceramic tile is also: fire, frost and water proof resistant to stains and abrasions durable hygienic economical
Q: I have a very outdated bathroom with pink tile covering just about every wall. I love to do DIY projects but can‘t afford to replace the tile. I can however afford to paint it. I read up on it and found the paint directions but don‘t want the end result to look tacky. Has anyone done this and liked the results?
have seen it after was completed came up reasonable you have to clean the tiles then apply a special primer then the tile paint there are pens around that can redo the grout lines. you must get the correct materials and follow everything as recomended the paints are not cheap. they might not have those paints in the. U.S.
Q: I was using a steam mop and it started getting very hot and tripping the breaker system. electrician told me there was too many amps (?) for the small electrical cord to handle. He said most of the steam mops can be potentialy dangerous for this reason. My outlets and breaker system have been fine since I stopped using the mop.But now, it is very difficult to keep the tile floors clean. Any suggestions?
Rather okorder /
Q: I have some cracked squares in my kitchen.It is caused from the subfloor coming up in one section.What is the best way to remove old tiles and screw floor back down to and replace with extras that I have.I have the glue left over also to use on them.I know my husband had hard time getting them up once before.Tired of waiting for hubby to do it.Any easy ways for me to get tile up.
Self stick tile can be gotten lose by using a hair dryer,but I see you have glue left over so that presents a little problem.The way I would remove old tile here in N.C.is to get my heat gun ,it produces a little more heat than a hair dryer. Have a stiff 1 puddy knife handy and as soon as it starts getting loose ,start sliding the knife under the edge,and across the middle.Once removed apply just a small amount of adhesive spread it thin and replace the tile.You may also need to trim the edges of the new tile just a small amount-so thay will fit.Do your fitting before you apply your finishing glue. This is called dry fitting
Q: the tiles are laid down using thinset cement. Mastic not used.
if they are ceramic and have been laid in a morter bed (standard way of laying these tile) your going to end up breaking a lot of them --best to tear them all up and start over scrape floor as much as you can to get old morter off be careful if your on a wood base -- not as bad if your on a slab

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