Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60A

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60A

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1267.2

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Glazed Porcelain Tile YC3A-1

Hot Sale Porcelain Tile CMAX28601

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tiles CR-BJ001

Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-CB010

Glazed tiles porcelain tiles from China

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B209

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6A222

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B239

Product Brief Introduction

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60A is one of the most popular color of Crystal Jade Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Product Features

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast delivery

OEM service could be offered

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Glossiness: 》 85 Degree

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Glazed Porcelain Tile Sandstone series SA60A

FAQ

Full glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening, like archaize brick pattern of design and color is rich, thick gorgeous color, natural texture, and the environmental protection and energy saving, service life long advantages and the low barriers to entry.

1. Why choose our Floor Tile?

1). Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for guving useful instruction on your jobsite.
2). Better warranty of products because we enjoy a reputation and we have got varies certificates and awards for our products.

2. What exhibition we joined?

1). Canton Fair (every year)

2). Dubai Big 5

3). American Covering

3. What's the characteristics about porcelain tiles and glazed tiles?

Glazed tiles are colorful, the effect is rather diverse, stain-slip, abrasion resistance but worse than the porcelain tiles. Long-term use may wear a large surface; porcelain tiles have the higher degree, long hard wear surface.

4. How to choose bathroom tiles? Porcelain tiles or glazed tiles?

Currently used in the bathroom tiles with glazed tiles (mainly from price considerations, some high-end can choose tiles, notice to choose tiles), divided into Shinny and Matt two kinds. Light color makes people feel shinny, but the bathroom more appropriate to create a warm feeling, so the best choose is uses matte, the shinny feels more soft and not dazzling.

Q: I want to put vinyl tiles on my pre-existing ceramic tiles but in some areas there is no ceramic tiles and I need something to fill in the gap to make my floors even when I put on the vinyl tile. What should I use? Then when my floors are even how do i put my tiles?: To make an even floor with lost or break tiles, if you are not interest to demo late floor the most wise way is to use mortal concrete for places that there's no tile and after 4 hours that concrete get to gather make a liquorish (but not too liquid like juicer concrete ) and with on broom apply all cross of the tiles to making even between the tiles (grout is always lower than tile surface) After this operation when complete concrete get dried . Apply special glue comes with tiles (Ask when you going to buy tiles) and install your tiles ,do not let adhesive get hard and install your tile fast as you can or apply adhesive just in point that you are working on .

Q: I thought that bathroom floor tiles were thicker than the bathroom wall tiles, is this right?: Yes but I would not recommend it. The bathrooms in the house we just bought have the same tile in the shower, walls and on the floor. The tiles are okay on the walls and in the shower but they are horrible on the floor. They are chipped , cracked and very tough to keep clean. Floors need a more durable tile.

Q: I need help with my white tile grout. Nothing I do keeps/gets it clean. Any tips for an easy fix to dirty grout, or does anyone know if it‘s possible to add color to grout after it‘s been set?: not so complicated-really- yes you CAN color grout. they have tile grout coloring at the tile store or home depot and lowes. The easiest way by far is a little product called tile guard. It looks like white shoe polish in the same kind of bottle and applicator. There is a cleaner and the whitener(with the applicator) honestly I got board with the cleaning part and just used the second step which is the shoe polish like bottle. Be sure to follow the directions for cleaning it up. It is so simple and CHEAP. about $6.00 for a bottle-also found at Home Depot and Lowes. Keep It Simple.

Q: we have an outside toilet which has been removed and we are wanting to change the room in to a washing room. it is a brick out building and the brick has been painted, how easy is it to tile over this and how could it be done?: Tile Over Brick Fireplace

Q: i used the baskup board, the adhesive, then put the adhesive on each tile.: I would assume that you are talking about tiles on the floor ..that can be a number of things..#1 the floor has movement...should have 2 or more layers of structural plywood or similar product with joints overlapped...and be 1.25 thickness or more...#2 if you used adhesive (glue) is it for floor tiles and are they of the right size...most larger ties need a thinset type mortar...#3..are the tiles you used floor tiles...wall tiles should not be used on the floor...#4..if the adhesive does not support the entire tile any void could create a weak spot and direct pressure would crack the tile..#5.. the actual floor support may not be strong enough or the span too long thus you would get deflection (movement) if the floor moves or flexes your tiles will loosen or crack.

Q: Do you have to rough up the old flooring ?: I tile, every day of my life, and while I'm not at all a fan of vinyl tile, you didn't state PEEL and STICK. Obviously the adhesives on Peel and Stick are inferior and as answer 1 suggests the tile can creep on any substrate. You also don't state any texture on the current tile, certainly to float anything over it is no less a task and challenge as it would be to remove the tile. For one thing a peel and stick needs almost a glass like finish for its inferior adhesive to be even modestly effective. That would relate to roughing up as well. Then there is the issue of how you might define Rough Up? I offer my opinion/ s First of all if it's peel and stick, I'd not bother, but if I bothered, my usual; course of action is a water based contact cement on both the substrate and the bottom side of the tile. That method can be used on non adhesive backed tile as well, but there are many viable/valid tile mastics on the market. A final note, no matter what tile or method you choose. DO NOT use the existing tiles as a guide to install new. If you choose to floor over though I cannot imagine doing so, you will be better served to displace seaming the new tile, (offset) at the seams, from the existing. Steven Wolf Just my two sense

Q: I accidentally tiled over an outlet cover. What can I do to fix this issue with out having to remove all the tile?: I'm guessing you probably put backer board down and forgot to cut the receptacle hole. If you can figure out which tile it's behind you can strike the tile in the center hard enough to break it and then use a hammer and chisel to chisel out the pieces. The backer board will chisel out easily. If you don't know the exact location you may have to remove more than one. That's OK because the mortar is probably still a little soft.The other option would be to use a 4 grinder and cutting wheel to cut the tile and backer board out with. If all that works out then you'll probably need to replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet if it's near a water source. Good luck

Q: I need to measure my tiles to get them cleaned but they all need the size in squares how do i do that, thanks in advance: Measure the tile area, both length and width, multiply the length by the width, to obtain the square footage of the area to be cleaned. The standard for a 'square' is 100 square feet. If you have an area that is not a rectangle or square, break your area into square or rectangle shapes, then multiply each area and add the total of all areas. Example: largest area, 12'.5 X 12' = 150, next area, 5'X 6' =30, 144+30= 180 square feet or 1.8 squares.

Q: Can I leave them alone and simply go over them w/ mud and ceramic tile . I really don‘t want to open the hazmat can of worms by getting the tiles tested.The tiles look like that mutfti pattern common in office buildings and schools and secured w/ a mastic.Thanks: I believe the general rule in vinyl flooring or tiles is if it was manufactured before 1984 it probably has asbestos in it.....since it is old tile which probaby has some edges that are somewhat risen in spots,I recommend going over the floor with quarter inch plywood or luan,which should solve the problem.....

Q: i don‘t even know how to explain what i want to ask.. but here i go....how do you make sure they come out straight. i know how to lay them but how do you make sure the second row comes out straight at the other end. I guess i need help lining them. chalk line will help but how do i do it. is there a website or video that may help me. ((( i lay down the first row along the chalk straight line. i then lay down one half tile at the end of the first tile row. then i continue with the full tile so i can get a staggered look. but how do i make sure that the second row is dead on? help if you can thanks. also if you have any other advice for laying staggered floor tile let me know. thanks.20x20 Porcelain floor tile.: The best thing to do is snap a chalk line down the center of the room, lengthwise. Then snap another chalk line running down the center of the room, widthwise. Where the two lines intersect will be the room center and your starting point. Keep in mind that rooms are seldom square. Don't be surprised if the room narrows or widens as you go. A basic rule of thumb when laying tile is to always do a dry fit first to see how the tiles will lay. This way, if you have to make any adjustments, it will be much easier than when they're in thinset. Don't forget to allow for the spacers for the grout line. For a 20x20 tile, I would go with a 1/8 grout line. You will need to use sanded grout. You want whole tiles in the center. The last rows against the wall can be cut to fit. Once the baseboard is installed, it will look like the tile runs under the wall. For door trim, use a Japanese saw to cut the trim just above the tile, using a tile as a height gauge. That way, the tile can slip under the door trim. The Japanese saw is a special, offset saw that allows you to make precise cuts at floor level. Buy, borrow, or rent a wet saw for cutting tile. It will save you a lot of time and make the job look professional. Make your cuts as you do the dry fit, so each tile fits perfectly. Once you get the tiles cut, you can identify them by the row and position they go in, or by some other method that allows you to fit the right tiles in the right place easily and accurately. Use modified thinset for setting the tiles. Don't cover the whole floor at once! Work about 10 square feet at a time. Keep in mind that the mixed thinset has a limited working time before it starts setting. It's better to mix a small batch each time. Use a 1/4 square notch trowel for spreading the thinset. Place the spacers between tiles to set them even distances apart for the grout lines. Above all, plan your moves and take your time. If you do it right, you'll only have to do it once.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit