Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6A308

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6A308 System 1

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6A308 System 2

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6A308

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Loading Port:: Guangzhou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1152 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

Tile Type	Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile
Certificate	ISO13006, ISO9001
Finish	Nano Finish
Size	600x600mm
Water Absorption Rate	Below 0.5%
Packing	Carton + Wooden Pallets
Usage	Floor and wall
Other Choices	many designs, size, colors
Delivery Time	15~20 days after 30% deposit received

Features:

l Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

l Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

l Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

l Material: glazed porcelain

l Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

l The full polished glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall as well as other public sites.

l Vivid stone texture and vein bring our decoration the natural stone beauty with much lower cost, easier quality control and easier decoration proceeding.

l Advanced glazing technology to make sure the tile surface beauty vivid and clean, via ink-jetting or silk printing.

l We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on client’s requirement;

l We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

l Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as white degree.

Q: I went and removed 3 ft of tiles from the side of the bath tub starting at the bottom. The tiles had the cement on it so it came off the wall exposing the wood the to the house and i saw the water damage to the wood. How do i patch up the wall? Do I use plywood and than cement it and than add the new tiles?: If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like you have water damage inside you wall. You first need to find out what caused that damage. If you repair the wall without finding the water leak, it will happen again. If the area was dry rot and it didn't sem like there was currently water there, then it is likely safe to fix. Carefully remove tiles until you no longer see any water damage to the wood. I'm not sure what wood is there. If its plywood, replace it with a like thickness (most of the time today, they use drywall, but its a special kind that is usually green that's made for bathrooms and moist areas). Before replacing the tiles, clean them up and remove any old grout from the edges. Be careful as the tile are very brittle and break easy. There are a number of bathroom tile type caulks that can adhere the tile to the wood. I suggest going to somewhere like Lowe's or Home Depot or a similar store and ask someone in the plumbing dept or the paint dept what kind of caulk to use to attach tile to wood. Apply the tile to the wall using the caulk. Now you need to re-grout the seams. Buy grout and apply it in all the seams. Let it completely dry (read the box but most say at least 24 to 48 hrs to completely cure) then after its cured, apply grout sealer over the top of the grout seams.

Q: How can you cover ugly wall tiles??: just tear them off and out up some wall paper, if you cannot do that for whatever reason jst put some your fav posters on the wall to cover them up

Q: hey guys my house just got renovated a few days ago... it seems like some tiles have tough stains on it. is there a type of detergent or anything that removes it off? it looks well ugly and makes the surface rough... it's on both my floor and wall tiles: Muriatic Acid is what you want, but use heavy rubber gloves and use sparingly. Don't let it spatter on carpets or furniture. Don't let it spatter on metal. it is a weak acid and will bubble up when it gets onto cement. To neutralize it, you can use a solution of bicarbonate of Soda and water. White vinegar may well work also and you might want to try that one first since it has less precautions that would come with its use. You would neutralize that the same way. If your tile grouting has been sealed, you will have to redo that.

Q: Balcony tile on the ground, do not know when a piece was made a small pit, but the brick has been posted for 3 months, is a cement paste, and now want to change that a brick, the location is in the middle of the ground, I ask any idea? anxious: Only three months on the month of the broken, it should be able to find the decoration at that time is responsible for decoration repair.

Q: I have a large number of tiles on the walls of the laboratory nowadays, and the whole piece of fall, years ago is normal, do not know how the matter, please answer expert!: Well, upstairs positive solution: upstairs friends said the first kind of hollowing the general two kinds of situations: 1, the workers in the construction did not have a responsible inspection of the back of the tile is fully integrated with the cement or cement label is not in accordance with the standard procurement , Resulting in cement after the tile off. 2, manufacturers in the tiles factory accidentally anti-fouling wax hit the back of the tile to reduce the combination of ceramic tile and cement performance. Specific identification method, hand tapping the drums around the other tiles there is no like knocking into the empty box of the sound, if there is basically that the process of paving caused by the phenomenon of hollowing. Upstairs friends said the second case is also easier after the tile paving the situation, the cement in the contraction of the time or the temperature changes so that the heat up and down, paving the process if there is no stay or stay Too small will make the tiles from the cement, there is a situation that the house is a long time due to the foundation will moderate subsidence problems, will lead to wall tiles appear drums, fall or crack occurs. Personal advice solution: 1, if the drop of the tile is not much landlord do not want trouble, you can use glass glue or marble glue from the new paste on the wall, but the useful time will not be very long. I hope I can help you

Q: I need to remove several tiles for repair and replace the tiles with as little damage as possible: good luck,be as careful as you can, but you will still break 1 or more,a dremmell with a grout attachment will help a bunch,i've used one several times and though i broke 1 i was able to get 8 out without breaking more

Q: I‘m installing a kitchen back splash of 1 x 1 glass tile. Right now there is drywall where the tile will be. I‘ve read that it is better to use cement backing board as a substrate. Is this really necessary or can I just use thin-set to mount the tile directly to the drywall and then grout as usual? Thanks for your help!: Dry wall is fine and you might want to use a mastic so they don t slide.. Proper setting of the tile is important.. I gently beat the tile in w/ my grout float while I m setting them.. Full coverage is also a must since you can sometimes see thru some glass tiles..I ve never had a problem with this though..

Q: Please help! and give as much information you can about the invention of tiles!: The earliest finds of roof tiles are documented from a very restricted area around Corinth (Greece), where fired tiles began to replace thatchet roofs at two temples of Apollo and Poseidon between 700-650 BC.[1] Spreading rapidly, roof tiles were within fifty years in evidence for a large number of sites around the Eastern Mediterranean, including Mainland Greece, Western Asia Minor, Southern and Central Italy.[2] Early roof tiles showed an S-shape, with the pan and cover tile forming one piece. They were rather bulky affairs, weighting around 30 kg apiece.[3] Being more expensive and labour-intensive to produce than thatchet, their introduction has been explained with their greatly enhanced fire resistance which gave desired protection to the costly temples.[4] The spread of the roof tile technique has to be viewed in connection with the simultaneous rise of monumental architecture in archaic Greece. Only the appearing stone walls, which were replacing the earlier mudbrick and wood walls, were strong enough to support the weight of a tiled roof.[5] As a side-effect, it has been assumed that the new stone and tile construction also ushered in the end of 'Chinese roof' (Knickdach) construction in Greek architecture, as they made the need for an extended roof as rain protection for the mudbrick walls obsolete. You could get more information from the link below...

Q: We recently remodeled our kitchen and are now ready to apply something between the counter and wall cabinets. We are thinking of tile. Our cabinets are a light oak. The counters are a marble looking blend of grey, blue, beige. Our appliances are beige. What color tile would look nice for this? Also, could you use 12x12 tile vs 4x4 or the smaller tile or is smaller tile better? We currently have unpainted drywall. Can you install tile with drywall behind? Or do you need that other type of backing?: The thing to keep in mind about using 12x12 tiles in this case is that unless you are exceptionally lucky the will have to be cut. While smaller tiles may also need to be cut, the difference in size will not be as dramatic and overall the effect should be more aesthetically pleasing. There are of course more than two or three sizes available, and you may wish to consider a small border pattern of some sort as opposed to filling the entire space with one tile. For that matter you may wish to have alternating tiles of the same size with different but complimentary colors. As for choosing the color (or colors) it may be best to see what is available locally and purchase a single tile of different styles you think you might like, then take them home to see how they go with the rest of your kitchen. You certainly won't need to purchase those backing boards for wall tiles, but check the instructions on the adhesive you buy to see if they advise priming or otherwise treating the drywall.