• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6853 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6853 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6853

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6853

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Specification

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile:
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TB6028 is one of the popular colors in the present market. It could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas. Now with the development of production technology and innovation of design, people could get models they like more easily and fast.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

   Grade AAA available only

   Mainly the basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm, 10*60mm.

  Strict quality control system on water absorption rate, color shade, deformation as well as packing.

  More competitive prices in China supplying market

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

  Professional sales team for the whole purchasing process.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.5%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Slip Resistance: 0.5

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

      For Packing StandardPaper Carton + Wooden Pallet

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6853

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6853

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, what is the difference from polished porcelain tile?

—— For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, there is a special glaze layer on the tile surface, which makes the surface feel matt or rough, while the surface of polished porcelain tile is glossy and smooth.

 

2.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

3.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

 

4.   Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.

 

5.   Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?

—— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.

 

6.   Could we be your exclusive agent in our country?

—— Possibly. For some countries we are hoping to find a proper partner in working market together. For sure we need to have a good talking for the details.

 

7.   Could we arrange the our own QC to check the items before container loading?

—— Yes, of course. Your quality checking will be welcome all the times.

 

Q: I am remodeling a small bathroom only 39sq ft. I had someone come out and give me an estimate, he brought a sample of a job he did and tried to sell me on that design, which will NOT complement my existing fixtures, since my existing fixtures are fairly new, I decided to reuse those to save me money. Anyways, this sample he brought me used 16in tiles, since my bathroom is so small, I think huge tile will make it seem even smaller and claustrophobic, I was thinking 1in-4in tiles, but this guy insists that large tile will make the small bathroom seem larger, is there any truth to this? Also, what is a good price to pay, I want the tub replaced, the tile around the tub, replace the small window, flip the sink and toilet so that the sink sits where the toilet is at and the toilet where the sink is, maybe re-tile the floor. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
Ceramic tiles are a great choice for remodeling your bathroom. You'll find a lot of opinions on tile size. Some people might recommend a smaller ceramic tiles for tile flooring in a small bathroom, but ultimately the decision is yours. You might want to consider asking for samples of several different sizes and bringing them in your bathroom to see how they look. Seeing a sample in your home might make all the difference. I'll post a link to our site below, where you can find a great selection of ceramic tile flooring. Hope that helps! Have a great day.
Q: I have some stick on tile that has come loose in a small hall area at some rental property. can you just lift thme up re-glue them? They are still in great shape.
The stick on back for these tiles is replacable. I believe liquid nails or other quick stick glue works just fine. Usually the replaced glue holds longer than the original.
Q: I live in an apartment and ive never had floor tiles like these.There is concrete underneath but I think these are ceramic tiles on top.I have no clue what to use to bring back the shine.Any suggestions would be helpful
Elbow grease.
Q: We want to put up kitchen tile for our back splash. I would like to put the squares on diagonally but my husband is concerned about the difficulty of all of the cuts. I need some DYI help. Please only serious replies, no jokesters
Not totally sure what you are asking. I have applied square tiles in a diamond pattern. Be sure to get a wet tile saw to cut the tiles diagonally in half, as this will do a much neater job and make things easy for you. It really wasn't that difficult, lay out your pattern on the floor to get an idea how many cuts you need to make. Use those plastic spacers to ensure uniform spacings between tiles and then just have fun with it. It was a project that I enjoyed and it brought instant enhancements to the kitchen.
Q: How do the concrete on the outer wall tiles be removed?
External wall tiles (rugged) on the cement cleaning method is as follows: With a direct shovel. Shovel when wiping the water with a cloth to wet the cement. With the wood shovel to make a little effort is also nothing, pay attention with the shovel with the clean up. (For a small area of ??external walls of tiles rugged clean) You can use 1500 or 2000 water sand paper gently rub. You can also use dilute hydrochloric acid to wipe, wipe clean and then clean with water. (Hydrochloric acid corrosion should pay attention to personal protection)
Q: How would one grout mosaic tiles on standing mirror?
Grout application on a mirror is exactly the same process as grouting a tile floor, back-splash, counter top, or table. Since the mirror is standing, I'd be sure that the mirror won't topple over when applying the grout because it has to be floated into the crevices between the tiles / tile pieces. If possible I'd suggest laying the mirror flat, either on the floor or on a sturdy worktable A grout float is basically a block shaped pushing tool used to force the grout between the tiles. Hold the float at an angle against the tiled surface and use a firm sweeping motion across the tile to push/force the grout into all the nooks, crannies, cracks and openings between the tiles. You'll have to work fairly quickly because grout becomes hard to work once it starts drying out. Work in a diagonal pattern and go back over any low or missed areas. Allow the grout to sit for 20-30 minutes. You'll know the grout is starting to cure when there is a light haze on the tile surface. Using a sponge and a bucket of clean water lightly buff the tile to remove the haze. This step may have to be repeated once or twice to be sure that all of the excess grout has been removed from the tile surface. If you want to seal the grout and tile, there are a number of sealant products available but you'll need to wait 3 or 4 days before applying in order to allow the grout to cure properly.
Q: Earlier I asked, How to find a good tile? This is what I meant
Anything that is real ceramic tile is good. Think about texture, cleaning and what the room is used for when choosing. It usually runs from $1 to $8 a square foot depending on which you choose. If you are planning to do it yourself you will need the proper tools such as a tile cutter, grout, and a base flooring etc. This will cost you up to $300 for everything but would save lots of money on labor etc. Don't buy the cheapest tile cutter! This is one of those things that you get what you pay for. Hope this helps.
Q: I wanted to put ceramic tile over the linoleum (in good shape) in our bathroom (floor is concrete). Can I do this or do I need to remove all the linoleum? Thanks
I don't know where everyone gets your info, you can put tile over linoleum but you must first rough up the surface for tile cement to adhere. Most manufacturers recommend 1 1/4 of sub floor so floor won't flex to much and crack the grout.
Q: I need pink ceramic 4x4 tiles to repair an old bathroom. At least 80 of them. Where might I find them?
Latch Tile in San Francisco..they most retro and out of stock tile.
Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

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