Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6851

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6851 System 1

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6851

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Loading Port:: Guangzhou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 115.2

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-Y6851 is one of the popular colors in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas, due to its unique antique feel image and texture. The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly used in Europe, North America and Middle East.

Product Features

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

Grade AAA available only

Mainly the basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm.

Strict quality control system for monitoring water absorption rate, color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, slip-resistance, abrasion resistance as well as packing.

More competitive prices in China supplying market

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast production arrangement

OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for the whole purchasing process.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1300 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.5%

Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Slip Resistance: 》 0.5

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

For 300x600mm, 8pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6 m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-Y6851

FAQ

1. For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, what is the difference from polished porcelain tile?

—— For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, there is a special glaze layer on the tile surface, which makes the surface feel matt or rough, while the surface of polished porcelain tile is glossy and smooth.

2. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For those models whose production could be arranged frequently, we could mix 2 or 3 models in one container.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

4. What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

5. For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

6. Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.

Q:We are using some leftover floor tile (6x6 size) and some new decorative tile (2x2 and 1x1) to tile our backsplash. Can we use the same mortar that we used on the floor? Also, we used a 1/4 inch notched trowel when doing the floor -- should we use a smaller notch for the backsplash (say, a 1/8 inch notched trowel)? Finally, the floor tile and the 1x1 tiles are porcelain. The 2x2 tile is tumbled travertine with quite a few pits on the surface. We don‘t know if we should fill those pits with grout or not. On one hand -- it will make the tiles easier to clean if they are filled (yes?). On the other, we like the look of the pits and don‘t know if we want the grout (which is a slightly darker color) filling the pits. Any suggestions?: After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile, and getting many thumbs down here?? I offer my thoughts. On a personal note, I don't come here to boost ego or income. DO NOT grout the texture of the travertine just to fill it. First of all the texture of the grout will be different than the tile, NOT likely remain in the smallness of the PITS, and unless it's in a color that matches; will stand out as it it was NEON. I use both sized knives to trowel mortar, in your case 1/8 will be fine. Since any tile should be regularly cleaned,,,given the surfaces they cover,,, I suspect the difference in tiles and textures is interesting and the PITS wherever else they exist must have the same issue? Yes? I might not attempt it, but as a DIY, for your own home, it's not a horrible idea, and certainly can be changed at some point. I guess in the end however I'm most curious about why not save the 6x6 for possible repair/replacements? Also I'm curious about WHY the NEW/Different? Is it in use elsewhere in the house? Is it different, in general, than the horizontal surface it will BUTT against? Finally and with no offense meant,,,Why 6x6 on a floor? Is it a bathroom? Finally, finally,,, DON'T bother to use a sealer that might make you think the Travertine will clean easier. It will only cause an issue of occasionally having to re-apply sealer. Steven Wolf

Q:We are laying 18 x 18 porcelain tiles in our kitchen for an open house we‘re having in 6 days. We can‘t figure out when and how to tile under the refrigerator. Do we have to move the refrigerator into another room? Can we wait two days for the mortar and grout to set firm and move the refrigerator onto the newly installed tile so we can lay tile where refrigerator will go? If we do that, should we then wait 24 hours for that tile to set so we can move the refrigerator back into place?What is the best way to handle the installation? I would appreciate any thoughts on how this is most ideally done.: 1. Should have been done days ago. 2..Under present circumstances I would install all tile EXCEPT beneath the fridge. 3. Then, after open house, newly laid tile will have had a least a week for the adhesive and grout to fully set and cure, 4. Gently tilt the fridge backward to raise the front wheels [or casters or whatever] off the floor 5. Install a metal sheet [the thickness of the new tile and mortar and the width of the casters (wheels) under the fridge] under the front of the fridge and butted up against the new tile. This is to protect the edge of the new tile when you gently roll the fridge out of its cubbyhole in the cabinetry, 6. Remove the old floor covering, and clean and prep the floor. 7. Install the mortar and new tile, leaving the fridge out until the tile has set, and then 8. Replace the fridge.

Q:If you were going to tile an entire room would you start from the walls or floor? The room is only small 12m walls 4m floor is a basic toilet basin. There are no border tiles no fllor to wall tiles.: not a pro but i thought you were suppose to start in the middle of the room. chalk line the center of the room and lay tile from there but i quess it would all depend on measuring to see how much of a tile size you would be working once you got to the wall. probably make an adjustment from center line so that tile size on both walls would be same size. i would do a practice layout of a few tiles to see how things look before formal tiling./// i'll check back to see what the pros have to say.

Q:ive never tiled anything before. i was thinking of replacing our old tiles around the fireplace and puttnig in slate ones. i am wondering if its a bigger project than it seems. will i have to remove the mantle to do it. is it harder to tile something on the wall or fireplace than the floor? should i just seek a professional or is it easy?thanks: This okorder /... Bottom line? Maybe this isn't the best project as a first project.

Q:Have a tiled half wall that I dont like, and as I neither know how to remove tiles or if how to drill through a tile can anyone help?: Use masonry bits in the drill. Start with a small hole and keep using larger bits to increase the size of the hole rather than trying to drill a big hole from the start. It helps to wet the end of the bit. If the hole has to be in a precise location, put a piece of masking tape up and put a mark on the tape exactly where the hole will be. The tape will help keep the drill bit in the spot where you want the hole, rather than having it skip around as it usually would do on the slick tile surface. Put the drill on a slow speed at first to get the hole started if the drill bit is trying to skip around.

Q:We have ceramic tile on the wall in the bathroom with a few tiles of color. Hate to change whole bathroom.: With no offense to you or others who answer, the answer truly is NO, not to any satisfactory level! After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile, and applying thousands of gallons of paint, AND UNDERSTANDING the properties of fired, glazed tile, I share this. It's essentially GLASS. Without much detail regarding color I'm going to assume you're talking about individual tiles interspersed among a base color tile. Also without knowing the substrate, there is an option. If you can match the base color tiles, and live with them, you can use a diagonal grinder to remove the surrounding grout, around the offensive color tiles, chip them out carefully, and after cleaning the substrate, install new. Certainly that can be applied to NOT matching tile pieces as well. Allow the mastik proper drying time, re-grout, and hopefully be OK with it. If that seems too easy, or difficult, you should consider other PATTERN options, since it's possible you'll damage base color tiles, OR, again, see if that base color is still available. For that you may have to go to a manufacturer, which may be difficult since many are in Europe and/or Mexico. Steven Wolf

Q:I‘m going to install a porcelain tile floor. My question is when I install a tile up against a cabinet that people can see. Should I but the tile up against the cabinet or should I leave enough space to grout between the tile and the cabinet. Just wondering what the standard practice is , and what looks the best. Also I have a small crack in the concrete, which the tile company said it was so minor that not to worry about it. Although it caused a crack in my old tile that was originally installed. I would really like to prep the crack prior to installing the new tile. What would you recommend doing to prep the crack. Thanks: I had a ceramic tile floor installed 5 years ago and I am still pleased. Remove the cabinets and tile under them if possible. If not tile right up flush to the cabinet. Have them cut some tiles about 3 wide and have them grouted onto the cabinet with a grout radius on top. You want the joint between tile and cabinet watertight (grout) if possible. If not a small bead of silicone with help keep moisture from penetrating the cabinet material. If you can put a tile on the crack without it rocking about, do not worry about it. It it rocks take a masonry chisel to the high area and get a level surface. A low spot can get filled with grout, not a problem. An uneven mount surface will break a tile over time, get it level. If there is evidence of water seepage/ wicking through the crack, you need to make it waterproof. Forget the installer that tells you not to worry about a uneven floor, he will be long gone and full of excuses as to why it broke. Do not forget to seal the grout lines per sealant instructions.

Q:How to judge the quality of tiles?: First, look at the surface tile color Market tiles of various types, color is also a wide variety, according to the tiles of the variety and technology, tiles can be divided into anti-skid brick, polished tiles, tiles, glazed tiles, micro-brick and other types. If the quality of tiles according to the grading also has a variety of grades, mainly divided into excellent products, qualified products, and other goods. To check the quality of tiles and their own post-paste only need to be carefully observed through the problem can be found, the quality of their own tiles is relatively poor need to replace the tiles are mainly reflected in the tiles surface cracks uneven, corners are not Floor tiles, although the surface looks bright, but the glaze layer surface color problems or glaze layer or glaze layer of inclusions spots. The quality of the tiles after paving the main inspection of the overall surface of the flatness in the range of two meters is not greater than two millimeters, between the brick and brick joints are not greater than 0.5mm, seam flatness in the length of 5m No more than 3mm, if more than the above data within the range are unqualified. Second, the percussion test tiles installed with or without hollowing In the room, around the room with a small iron bar and other special inspection of the wall hollowing the tool, gently tapping the four corners of the tiles and the middle of the sound crisp no hollowing, if detected the problem of hollowing, should be marked out, Timely eradication with floor tiles. Third, in the tiles on the splashing water detection In the kitchen, the bathroom has a drainage slope requirements of the floor tiles paved tiles, in check their water is smooth, in the slope above a lot of water can be detected. After pouring water in the above, waiting for a moment, see where there is water to show that the floor tiles paved uneven, or to the water slope is not enough.

Q:I am looking at replacing my kitchen floor, which currently has carpeting. (Bought the house like that.) And now I am looking to do either vinyl or tile. I understand tile is good for a lifetime, where as vinyl is good for 15-20 years for the heavier kind, but tile is double the cost. We plan on staying in our house a long time, if not forever, but in the case we would decide to sell, would tile or vinyl give us more value?: I can only answer this according to resale in my area where I live. Tile will up the value of your home here. But...here, we have cold winters, and if you have tile, it had better be heated or the tile will be worthless as they get very cold underfoot. Personally, I like vinyl for the fact that it is warmer underfoot, and it can come in tons of colours/designs/thicknesses. It can be expensive too, so you will have to shop around. Vinyl will mark, but so will tile. Tile will last longer, but be sure it is installed properly. Tile is tougher overall, but you might want to change it after 15 years and it will be cheaper to change vinyl than it will be to change tile. If you choose vinyl, just do not choose the cheapest as it will have more of a tendancy to yellow and tear. Ensure your heavy appliances are on wheels so the vinyl will not tear when you move them for cleaning (done that one before).

Q:I was wondering if self stick vinyl tile would work well on bathroom walls and if it would stick well to sheet rock or if i have to replace the sheetrock with plywood?: Please don't follow through with your plans. Self stick tile is not meant for walls and will be a nightmare later on for you or for another homeowner who inherits this horrible mistake you are about to make. Self stick tile will destroy the walls when time comes to remove it. And, it will also be a breading ground for moldy cracks and may fall off due to moisture in the bathroom. If you are going to go through with the expense of covering your walls with plywood, you are also going to have to remove the door and window mouldings and baseboards....so you may as well just re sheetrock and paint. Forget about putting tacky vinyl floor tiles on the walls. EDIT: something to consider: if you put a treatment on the walls and need to get to the plumbing for repairs, there will be problems with getting the wall back together to match the wall treatment. So, make sure you have extra materials to deal with repairs.

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