Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6658

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6658 System 1

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6658 System 2

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6658

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Loading Port:: Guangzhou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 115.2

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

Tile Type	Glazed Porcelain Tile, floor tiles
Certificate	ISO13006, ISO9001
Finish	Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish
Size	60x60 mm
Selection Range	Several Colors available

Features:

1) Unique natural sandstone image designs and exclusive quality;

2) Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

3) Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4) Material: porcelain

5) Basic size: 600x600x9.8mm, 100x600mm, 150x600mm, 300x300mm, 300x600mm available based on clients’ requirements;

6) Available dimensions

Material	Porcelain
Dimension	600x600x9.8 mm
Packing	Carton + Wooden Pallets
Finish	Glossy, over 90 degree.
Usage	Floor and wall

The glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, exclusive brand showroom, clubs villas as well as other public sites.

We could go with OEM model, making 2^nd production based on client’s requirement;

We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as 2^nd production and final package.

Specification and technical parameter:

· Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

· Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

· Anti-Resistance: R10

· Delivery Time: within 15~20 days after order confirmation.

· Package standard: 4pcs/carton, 40 Cartons/pallet, 32 Kgs/Carton.

Q: I am installing commercial tile and I have no idea what tool is used to cut this kind of tile, it easily breaks if its bent too hard. I need to cut curved areas on this tile and I have no idea what too to use. Please help! ;): If you are talking about vinyl tile you can use an hair drier to soften the tile so you can cut it without it crumbling. Use a curved tin snip or a utility knife to cut after softening. You should be able to lay it flat on the floor, soften it, scribe it with the utility knife, and then snap it. If you are talking about ceramic tile you should use a tile saw. You can rent one for about $60/day. You can buy one in Home Depot or Lowe's for about $90.

Q: Im going to put tile floors in my home, and working on a budget so i cant spend too much. question is I am undecided regarding the color, i found a brownish color tile kinda like sienna not to dark 16x16 and another beige with cream and is glossy with a design etch on it really nice, but in a 12x12 i think. anyway, i really like the sienna color for the living room, kitchen, foyer and hallway, but i dont think it would look right in the bathroom, i like the beige for the bath. i have a very small bathroom so wold it look weird to have two diffrent tiles in a home? i plan to paint my living room in a grayish blue color french blue i think its called with white trim but still undecided in bathroom i really need some advise on this so if anyone knows please help: Go with your 16 Sienna. The fewer grout lines will give the room a less interrupted appearance. I also prefer not having too many flooring choices--makes the floor-plan look choppy. For the bathroom color try a blue either 1 shade lighter or darker than the living room. Most paint stores can even add some black or white to darken or lighten the paint after you have used it in the living room.

Q: what causes lippage on a granite floor? i had someone install granite tiles in my bedroom and the lippage isn‘t too bad i must say but 2 or 3 tiles do have A LOT of lippage...was wondering why that would be? thanks so much in advance!: Hey BigBadShawn, I worked for years in flooring at The Home Depot and I got to see this question come up quite a bit from my customers. Natural stone tiles like granite can be tricky to keep, and lippage can come from various sources. Depending on what is underneath it as well as how the tiles are installed will determine what is the exact cause of the lippage. Usually I've seen with older houses with wood subfloors that prep work wasn't addressed so that over time as the floor joists/subfloor expands, contracts, and settles tiles of any substrate can pop up or create small lippages. The professional way to installed your floor was (hopefully) by the builder using a tile backerboard and/or securing the subfloor securely before laying down the tiles. Also, if the tiles have very thin to no grout lines, it is possible that the events of the floor joists settling makes little room for the tiles to go anywhere but up. With a high-quality flexible mortar, that shouldn't of been an issue. If you noticed a progression over time with your tiles, I'd say you most likely have a wood subfloor on your hands. If it was concrete, it could be a matter of improper installation, moisture, or unevenness of the surface itself that gave it the lippage you see now. Hope this helps you out, aboveaveragejoe

Q: What are the tiles?: 1, polished turn: the type of brick with clay and stone powder pressed by the press, and then fired from the front and the opposite color, not on the glaze, burned, the surface and then polished, so positive It is very smooth, very beautiful, the back is the original face of the brick. Polished we all know? Such as stone floor and wall, is polished, stone province is not bright, but polished, it looks very bright. Since it is polished, the problem will follow, because the smooth, bright, so it is not dirty, and dragged with a mop, will leave the water mark, because your mop can not be 100% Clean it, like the same glass, so if you want to clean, it is more effort; The second drawback is that polished because of smooth, so it is not slip, that is, once the water on the ground, it is very slippery, which is why we see the building inside the stairs and other shops are not the stone Cast into light, but matt, the only way to non-slip. The third problem is the color of the liquid is easy to penetrate, the simplest test is to take the pen in the brick surface to write a few words, poor polishing turn, immediately wipe after writing, are not necessarily able to clean, writing may have infiltrated Well, good brand, because the press is good, high density, coupled with the firing of the high temperature, the density is very high, so it is not easy to infiltrate, but this is not absolute, no matter how good the polishing, if write the word 10 Minutes and then rub, but also must leave the traces of never wipe, because the ink has been infiltrated into the brick inside.

Q: it is literally burning hot have no idaea wat the problem is plzz help:). porcelain tile btw: is it floor tile? Wall tile or what? sorry to hear about this problem, if you are a homeowner its up to you, if you are renting, alert your agent ASAP, heat is an indication of fire, water, gas or air permeating the structure where it does not belong. Leave the building if you sense any danger or cannot track its source. You could also contact your local firedepartment for tips over the phone.

Q: To any DIY‘ers out there!My kitchen has a white tile backsplash and these decorative fruit motifs here and there. (you remember that trend?)There are only eight of them strategically placed, but I‘d really prefer that there were none, and just the plain white like the rest of the tiles. I can‘t really aford to retile the whole backsplash right now, so my question is .. Is there an effective way to cover them or paint them?: Absolutely! okorder / And here's a link for ceramic tile paint: If you find that painting is just too much work, you may want to consider going to Home Depot or Rona. They have these new funky stickers made to stick directly over ceramic tiles... and they last! Not as long as painting, but it will tide you over unitl you redo the backsplash in ceramic or whatever..... Have you considered the new metal tiles you can get now? If you want some info on metal tiles, just email me.

Q: Can you lay down those adhesive floor tiles on top of existing tiles? If so, what kind of prep do you need to do to make sure they stick properly. I‘m not sure what type of tiles are in place now, but they are similiar to the types used in schools and other institutions. Very cheap, flexible, and bland. I want to lay something down in place of them, but don‘t want to rip them up. Is that possible? Thanks!: I wouldn't sign my name to a job as you describe, (no offense) and I've installed thousands of sq. ft. of flooring. BUT...If you absolutely don't want to remove the old, and have a sense of their substance (you state school type) perhaps a commercial grade thick vinyl? School type and/or older commercial types are often not exactly flexible and can crack; especially on corners or fitting that is too tight. Certainly you can take the time and effort to rough up the existing. You can also use Lacquer thinner (albeit smelly) to destroy any possible finish from the manufacturer. I do have a suggestion I state in every Vinyl tile Q however. Go to a Lowes or HD. Purchase a gallon or whatever of a water based contact cement. DuPont might be one manufacturer. What I use is a nice looking Aqua color. Peel the paper off the back of the tile as you proceed; Brush on a coat of the cement to the tile back and floor area. Allow dry time and press down. This assumes you've measured/ perhaps squared the room again; dont strictly place the new on the exact seams of the existing; and don't make a mistake in placement. Save your cuts for the last, work toward/ back to an exit point, and allow a few hours at least for some cure time. The water based contact cement is as durable and effective as the lacquer based; dries rapidly; can initially be cleaned up with water; and doesn't have a strictly offensive odor. Steven Wolf

Q: We are in need of installing a tile back splash in our kitchen. Where can you find the best prices on tile? I live in the Atlanta area, and there are lots of places. I am just not sure what a good price is. We are looking for standard 6 x 6 tile. Also, is there any other way to save money in the process? We do have access to a wet saw to cut the tile. Thanks for your help!: If you need a tile saw Home Depot will rent you one.

Q: how to install the tin molding around the edge of the tiles: Usually this is tacked into place with a few small nails. In the past i have experimented with using a contact adhesive to install the tin tiles and the molding strip, but this can be a bad option depending on the embossed pattern in your tiles or molding strip. The best and most secure option is to line the ceilding with ply (9mm thick or more - screwed into your ceiling joists so is secure) then to nail (small tacks) the tiles and the strips into place. You can also position the tiles and strips with contact adhesive to get them all in the right spot then go through and nail off when you are happy with the positioning.