• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-M6035 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-M6035 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-M6035 System 3
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-M6035 System 4
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-M6035

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-M6035

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Glazed Porcelain Tile, floor tiles

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

Size

60x60 mm

Selection Range

Several Colors available

 

Features:

 

1) Unique natural sandstone image designs and exclusive quality;

2) Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

3) Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4) Material: porcelain

5) Basic size: 600x600x9.8mm, 100x600mm, 150x600mm, 300x300mm, 300x600mm available based on clients’ requirements;

6) Available dimensions

 

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600x9.8 mm

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Finish

Glossy, over 90 degree.

Usage

Floor and wall

 

The glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, exclusive brand showroom, clubs villas as well as other public sites.

We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as 2nd production and final package.

 

 

Specification and technical parameter:

 

·         Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

·         Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

·         Anti-Resistance: R10

·         Delivery Time: within 15~20 days after order confirmation.

·         Package standard: 4pcs/carton, 40 Cartons/pallet, 32 Kgs/Carton.

 

Q:My grandpa‘s bathroom needs to have a few adjustments made to it, namely safety bars put in place around the tub to help him in and out. The problem: every wall is covered in glazed tile (which I know makes a difference) and the bars need to be screwed in.My question is this: how? I know that using just a drill bit will shatter the tile, even a carbide one because the tile‘s glazed.Thanks much, kisses and ten points to the best answer.
dont drill to fast nor too hard, but using a carbide bit is the best, try putting some masking tape around where u drilling hole
Q:Installing support bars on bathtub ceramic tile
Pretty much what these guys said, but i would recomend using a masonry bit with a hammerdrill. I not only rotates the bit like a drill but also has a back and forth motion like a hammer hitting a nail. Makes it easier to drill and extends the life of the bits.
Q:Figure, I was in the indoor shoot, only two lights 600W1200w, brick surface is not bright matt antique tiles, moved to remove the two sides still have, I do not want to shoot good-looking, is to accurately accurate design printing of. Is there any way? Do you have to be back? Polar mirror ok? By the way, what kind of high-reflective polished tiles to shoot?
1, CPL (circular polarizer) is a photography enthusiasts more commonly owned filters, generally used for landscape photography, eliminate unnecessary polarized light, so that the whole picture is more clear, more transparent feeling, it is recommended to find A polarizer mounted to facilitate the maximum elimination of reflective; 2, to eliminate the reflective Polarizer is not omnipotent, pay attention to the direction of your light, try to use soft, or studio and other special auxiliary equipment to shoot, to obtain more general light, try to avoid strong direct light, or day Utilize natural light. No matter what type of light or other light source, pay attention to the direction of the lens with the light direction to adjust to refraction at least. 3, pay attention to the scope of light exposure, if not enough light to fill the light plate, this light is also more soft. 4, white balance should pay attention to the need for accurate metering, pay attention to compensation settings. Otherwise the color of your tile photo may and will actually have a big contrast
Q:I have ceramic tile throughout home and in kitchen around one tile the grout or whatever the stuff is between the tile has crumbled and is getting bigger. Can i seal it myself,with what? or do i need to hire a stud to fix it?
Hire the stud it sounds like you don't want to do this, but to have some handsome well chiseled hunk to watch work.
Q:Ok so my 17 year old SIL decided to clean the grout in our entry way using STRAIGHT bleach last night. I came home to find the ceramic tile COVERED in bleach!! Now, after mopping several times I still haven‘t been able to get all the bleach up AND our tiles are stripped!!! Any tips on getting the bleach up and then resealing? Total novice here and desperate for any kind of help!! Thanks!!
Well congradulations on your very clean floor, never fear the clorine bleach will buff off when it is completely dried considering your existing tile is not porus. if that doesn't take care of it, then try this, use a brush and wash it down very good with water and then use a solution of vinegar and water (half and half) this is called an acid wash in the tile work trade. If that does not solve your problem, then get your SIL back over to remove the existing grout and install new or just ask her to pay for it to be done by a professional (which ever suits ya). Be advised to clean your new grout thoughly twice after it has hazed over, then after 72 hours apply an acid wash mentioed above, let it dry, and install a grout sealer.
Q:I am looking at putting the self stick vinyl tiles in my new addition. It has a concrete floor and I was wondering if the vinyl will have a hard time sticking to the concrete. Do I need some type of sub-floor? I am wondering this mainly because we live in iowa were is can get pretty cold in the winter and I didn‘t know if that would affect the stickyness.
I think your bigger problem would be moisture. If this is in a basement there's a good chance that moisture could seep beneath the tiles and make the glue separate. A subfloor will significantly add to the cost, but it would keep the basement warmer, and lessen the chance of damage to the tiles. Be sure you build the subfloor out of treated wood though, or you could have rot/termites/many more problems.
Q:If you were going to tile an entire room would you start from the walls or floor? The room is only small 12m walls amp; 4m floor amp; is a basic toilet amp; basin. There are no border tiles amp; no fllor to wall tiles.
I've seen it done both ways. But I prefer to do the walls first. That way what ever mess is on the floor can be cleaned up easily and it is not on the new floor tiles
Q:I have a couple of tiles that have fell off and need to be put back on, what type glue do you apply to make them stick. They fell off due to foundation problems which is now fixed.
mastic or glue is usually used in applications where tile is going on to a non cementatious material, like wood etc. If the backing is cement in nature, then the best material is a portland cement based product like superflex thinset mortar. then, you may have some grouting issues around the displaced tile. I dont know what you mean by foundation problems, that sounds to me like a cement foundation. good luck, John
Q:If yes, we want to know what s the best sealer for our porcelain tiles we just installed on our floors. Will the sealer make the tiles slippery?We will appreciate your quick answer from y‘all!
Generally porcelain tile is used in wet areas. It shouldn't require sealing and is used outdoors in lieu of ceramic tile as it is higher fired and stands up to cold weather better. But it can still be slippery when wet.
Q:I found answers about laying tile and a backer board over linoleum I didn‘t know if they would be the same. What would cause tile to crack if it‘s places directly on concrete?
If a homeowner asked me to lay any kind of tile other than vinyl over the top of vinyl I would not warranty anything. The non vinyl tile will be adhered extremely well with the thinset to the vinyl tile, however, the vinyl tile, while it's stuck to the concrete, does have movement. If the sub floor moves something in the thinset, grout or porcelain/ceramic tile will have to give. If the thinset gives your tiles will come loose. If the grout gives you will spend the next 15 years replacing grout once a month. If the tile gives you will have cracks in the surface of the tile that creates a sharp edge to cut your feet on. Or a combination of the three. You must remove the vinyl. You can purchase a removal tool at Home Depot for a couple bucks. You can also get a day laborer that you will have to watch but will do the work for you for probably $75 or so. Once you have the tiles up and the floor cleaned (you don't have to be neurotic about the cleaning as the thinset will float over some things on the concrete) you'll need to inspect for cracks in the concrete. If there are cracks you'll need to purchase a crack mitigation kit. You can find them in the tile section of Home Depot. You'll need the package as well as the primer. There are instructions on the package but basically you cut the stuff to fit with a utility knife. Paint the primer on the floor and let dry as per instructions. Paint on the glue and lay the material over the glue. Let dry as per instructions and you're ready to tile with no worries about cracking tile.

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