• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-LP6011 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-LP6011 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-LP6011

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-LP6011

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Specification

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile:
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

Product Brief Introduction

 

The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly popular in Europe, North America and Middle East. The modle NO. CMAX-LP6011 is one of the popular designs in the present market. Just like other glazed porcelain floor tile, it could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas, due to its unique antique feel image and texture. Besides, it is also proper for retails and distribution marketing channels.

 

Product Features

 

  Excelent glaze surface and porcelain tile body

   Grade AAA quality standard only

   The basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm based on the actual project needs.

  Strict quality control system on water absorption rate, color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, slip-resistance, abrasion resistance .

  Compititive prices

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Solid Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006,EN14411.

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.5%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Slip Resistance: 0.5

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

  For 300x600mm, 8pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-LP6011

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-LP6011

 

FAQ

 

1.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

2.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

 

 

3.   Could we be your exclusive agent in our country?

—— Possibly. For some countries we are hoping to find a proper partner in working market together. For sure we need to have a good talking for the details.

 

4.   Could we arrange the our own QC to check the items before container loading?

—— Yes, of course. Your quality checking will be welcome all the times.

 

5.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For those models whose production could be arranged frequently, we could mix 2 or 3 models in one container.

Q: I have recently glued mosaic (mirrior finish) tiles onto a wall of mine, however I have noticed a few tiles, have almost sorta withered away at the back, it also almost looks as if the mirror backing scraped away, now giving more of a clear look. I would now want to remove some of the tiles out, Would it be advisable to use a chisel and hammer, to chip away the tile, or is there anything I can use to repair the tile.Much Appreciated
I'm not sure if the tiles are individual, or part of a mat. Either way I wouldn't use a chisel because you could damage the surrounding tiles, you could loosen the backing (mirror finish) of the surrounding tiles, and you could even damage the backing the tile is attached to, especially if it's attached to drywall instead of backerboard. First you want to cut through any grout. You can buy a cheap blade for this, or if you have a dremel tool or something similar, they make inexpensive grout removal tips. If there isn't any grout, you'll need to cut through the webbing if the tiles came attached to each other. You can do this with a knife, box cutter etc... At this point the only thing holding the tile in will be the glue. At this point you can gently use a chisel to break the bond. Hold the chisel upside-down, so the back of the chisel faces you and the angle is against the wall. Some call this paring, basically it allows the chisel to ride across the surface cutting behind the tile. Using it the standard way will cause the chisel to dig into the drywall or backerboard. Hope this helps, e-mail with any questions, Alan
Q: I have painstakingly cleaned and restored victorian age tiles in hall (using natural and eco products). Wondering what to seal with? Found few eco tile sealants but wondered if anyone used any without distorting the colour? Thanks :)
Most tile have a glazed finish so unless it dose not have it,it will be difficult to seal.You don`t mention wheat her its wall or floor tiles,if it wall tiles you might get away with it.If it floor tiles I think it will cause a problem by walk over it.
Q: Tile loss rate
Number of Wall Brick 800 tiles Square number * 1.6 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) 600 tiles Square number * 2.78 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) Toilet kitchen ground Specifications: 300 * 300 square number * 11 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) Bathroom kitchen wall tiles Specifications: 300 * 450 square number * 7.4 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) Specifications: 300 * 600 square number * 5.5 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss) Specifications: 250 * 330 square number * 12 + 1 ~ 2 = quantity (plus loss Waistline Specifications: 30 * 30 weeks long * 3.3 * 5.5 = quantity (plus loss) This is a more accurate calculation of the loss of the way, in general, are sufficient, and after completion should be some remaining, but not absolute, to take into account your home irregular zone, if more, the more the loss, the carpenter can not Hundred percent to you count, so would rather buy more and more to buy, buy more can also be in accordance with the original price back, and less to buy a brick with no color is a very careless thing, so the loss to More consideration, a wall of the last left a bag, 2 packets are reasonable. Finally, buy tiles to introduce you to buy Hui million, excellent quality, remember to give me the best evaluation of Kazakhstan.
Q: What techniques and tools would make it easier to go through doorways when laying ceramic floor tile
When installing ceramic tile, great care should be taken when measuring around your doorways. The doorways are the hardest place to apply tiles, as the area has many sizes to take into consideration. Cutting and installing ceramic tile around doorways should not be seen as a daunting task.Before you begin, you will want to first take careful measurements at your doorway. Once you have the proper measurements, you will then want to cut your tile using a masonry saw. Cut your tiles to fit the measurements of your doorway and lay them in the doorway as you cut them to help you keep track of where each tile should go. you can find some good tile saws in my source site.
Q: My kitchen has a white ceramic tile floor. It never looks clean, every speck of dirt shows. Because we live in a slab home, the tiles are glued right to the concrete. I hate to think how much work it would be to remove them. I could tile over - but it would make the kitchen floor higher than the surrounding rooms. Is there any suitable product for changing the color of the tile in such a high traffic area?
There is no GOOD way to do this. And you are right in that tiling over tile is a bad idea. You could go over it with a product like DuraCeramic, which would only raise the floor level up a small amount, but be aware that anything you put over that surface will likely make the existing surface unusable forevermore and you might regret it someday. The real solution would be to demo the existing tile and install new tile.
Q: In order to be able to tile the windows (instead of the white moulding) like in the second kitchen, what steps would I have to take? Just remove the moulding on the inside then tile?
Yes, carefully remove the moldings before tiling. Using a utility knife, cut the caulking between the molding and the wall first so you can pry them off with a prybar or small putty knife. In the picture, it looks like they also tiled inside the window frame as well. I would consider this carefully, as those windows are probably designed to be removed from the inside and tiling there could prevent you from replacing them in the future.
Q: Do I want to use the concavity of a marble tiles to make a TV backdrop, right? Help designers,
The concavity stone is very unique, not only can do the backdrop can also do the home garden, but I still like their art painting, is the need for rice too much. O (╯ □ ╰) o, the last only bought a cappuccino series of brick, but we can learn from the effect.
Q: The walls of the decorative panels and tiles two materials in the interface where how to close the mouth
If the two are in a plane, the operation is relatively simple, you can use natural sewing, sealing sealant closed, embedded in the T-shaped aluminum and other methods; if not in a plane, there are high and low, you can use L-shaped aluminum or stainless steel cover Prominent side.
Q: I have granite tiles I want to put on a kitchen countertop. I removed the laminate and underneath is about 1.5 thick of a particle board of some sort. The countertop is very sturdy and the board is in great shape. I know if this stuff get wet, you can have problems, but otherwise it seems to be very sturdy stuff. I know most people will say you need to put down a sheet of hardibacker, but I don‘t see the point. With a top grade thinset, these tiles will definitely adhere to the board extremely well. Grount lines will be extremely tiny and I‘m going to double seal everything with a really good sealer. I don‘t see anyway water is going to penetrate these tiles and thinset and get to the particle board. That‘s really the whole issue, right?
You can do that no problem. Particle board is a very stable material as long as it doesn't get and stay wet a long time. Make sure you seal the edges of the particle board (if you're not covering them with tile). That's the area that's most vulnerable to water damage because of water that drips off of the top of the counter. But I have to say....tile as a counter is outdated and tacky. Get with the program. Use solid granite or solid surfacing. Tiled counter tops are embarrassing.
Q: Is there a site you know that would be helpful for this. I am going to be doingthe kitchen walls, no back splash from counter. Tile will start at counter go up to bottom of cabinets.I was thinking of using a regular tile then half way up putting a 6 inch strip of glass tile, they are smaller really add SPUNK! lol I need some pointers on doing it though. Or any tips you might have.THANKS!
With no offense to others who answer, nor to you, certainly WEB SITES may help,,, as well as one who answered concrete backer board. After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile I have some thoughts. Not wondering at all about your design, which is totally up to each individual, you'll need to know the basics of hanging tile on a verticle surface. While realizing that a verticle surface defines Shear weight as it relates to tile, you'll certainly need spacers for grout lines, a decent rapid set mortar, etc. You don't state the size of the tiles? 4 inch? 6 inch? I also wonder what your counter surface is now, and the backsplash issue? The backer board offers a surface more likely to accept mortar in its texture, holding it better than drywall, and certainly offers more durability with regard to a kitchen,,,or bath, in its water resistance issues. Many small tile sections, IE: 1 inch/ 2 inch are usually mesh paper backed to help them stay in a predetermined place in spacing. The task is only different in that you're battling the natural laws of physics and gravity when you apply tile to a verticle surface. I offer this then leave you to ponder. NEVER extend yourself or any job, farther than can be managed without error, or having to lay a pile of bricks against a wall to hold up newly installed tile. Knowledge is usually something we acquire AFTER we NEED it, and Patience is truly a virtue in this case for a DIY. Steven Wolf (The Rev.)

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